| Chaven (Chefchaouen) – the blue city in Morocco

Chaven (Chefchaouen) – the blue city in Morocco

Chaouen (Chefchaouen) is a town located at the foot of the Rif Mountains in northwestern Morocco. The heavenly tones of the streets in this Moroccan city seem like a fairytale setting. The color palette of the uphill medina is replete with piercing shades of blue, azure and azure. The city, where the walls of buildings, window frames, wooden doors of houses, steps and even flower pots are filled with blue, is one of the largest tourist centers in northern Morocco. Rich shades of blue azure, turning into blue and violet tones, are renewed several times a year. Residents of Chaven paint their buildings anew before major holidays and festivals that take place in the city several times a year.

Founded in 1471 as a fortress to defend against Portuguese invaders, Chaven owes its color scheme to the local Jewish community. The city became one of the largest refuges for Jews expelled from Spain during the Reconquista. According to biblical covenants, blue and light blue shades of houses should symbolize the tallit (tales) prayer shawl and remind of God. The Jewish population of Chaven has declined significantly since the 15th century, but local residents have maintained the tradition of painting buildings in heavenly colors.

Before 1920, only three Europeans visited Chaven. And this despite its proximity to the Mediterranean Sea, the Strait of Gibraltar, Spain and Portugal. The first was the famous French African explorer and missionary Charles Eugene de Foucauld (1858–1916), who appeared in Chaven in 1883 for just one hour, dressed as a rabbi. The second was a correspondent for The Times of London, Walter Harris, who traveled to Morocco in the late 1880s. He entered the city disguised as a Moorish merchant and lived there for some time as a vagabond. The third one was the least fortunate. It was the American missionary William Summers, who was poisoned during his visit to Chaven in 1892. So why did Chaven remain closed to foreigners for a long time? Why were the brave souls who dared to visit it forced to disguise themselves in order to save their lives?

Shawen was founded in 1471 by Moulay Ali Ben Moussa Ben Rached El Alami. The main task of the city at that time was to protect against the invasions of the Portuguese, who settled in the north of the country, in Ceuta. As a defensive point, Chaven was ideal: a favorable location at the foot of high mountains, a strong fortress wall, a river covering the city on one side - all this significantly complicated any attack. In the Middle Ages, Andalusian Jews and Muslims expelled from Spain during the Reconquista flocked to the city. They brought their culture, art and business acumen, ensuring the city's rapid development and prosperity. That is why Charles Eugene Foucault was able to calmly appear in Chavin in the guise of a rabbi. Jewish and Moorish "traces" are still strongly felt in the city.

Many people in Chaven make hashish, but the crime rate in the city is low. It is safe to walk along the medieval narrow streets, immersed in blue and greenery, at any time of the day. In 1920, the Spaniards first captured Chaven, but the local population, mostly rebellious and overly proud Berbers who called themselves “free people,” desperately resisted. Hatred towards foreign invaders and European influence in general, nurtured over centuries, resulted in a long confrontation. The Spaniards could not take control of the Reef region. However, in 1926 they still succeeded, albeit with the help of the French. Chaven belonged to the Spanish crown until 1956, when Morocco gained independence.

Today this “fanatical Berber city,” as Walter Harris called it, is open to everyone. Hostility towards foreigners, quite understandable by history, is receding, and Western influence very slowly but surely penetrates the narrow streets of the Medina, into cozy shops and restaurants. And if earlier Berber children, seeing a person with a European appearance, began to throw stones at him, now Chavenian children do not miss the opportunity, smiling modestly, to extend their hand to you and beg for money in fluent Spanish. And yet, in Chaven, like nowhere else, the atmosphere of the “real” Middle Ages reigns. Tourists here are treated with interest and curiosity, but there are so few of them here compared to the famous Fez, Marrakech and Rabat that they simply cannot significantly influence the life of this strange city frozen in time.

Sights of Chavin

Chaven is often said to be one of the most beautiful cities in Morocco. And all because of the piercing blue Old Town. You find yourself on the streets of the local Medina climbing up the mountain, and you don’t believe that this is a real city where ordinary people live. Neat white Andalusian-style houses with bright blue doors, blue shutters and window frames, blue flower pots and even blue-painted paths look like something out of a fairy tale. Sometimes it even seems that the houses simply “flow” into stairs and sidewalks, and the streets become like a multi-level labyrinth of frozen blue glaze. For all major holidays, the Medina is repainted again, so this heavenly blue is always preserved here in all its manifestations - from light blue to rich purple. And regardless of the weather, even if there are dark clouds in the sky, Chaven always looks bright and cheerful.

Kasbah (from Arabic “city”) is a fortified house or fortified quarter. In North Africa, this word refers to a citadel in a system of city fortifications. The Kasbah tower offers a picturesque view of the city. In addition to the fact that the Medina in Chaven, unlike other Moroccan cities, is incredibly clean (Chaven received a national award for sanitary conditions), it is also “living”, that is, it is first and foremost a residential area, and only then a market and gathering place shopping shops. However, if we talk about trade, then Chaven has something to brag about. And most importantly, these are woolen products (carpets, clothes, etc.), with bright colors and patterns reminiscent of Peruvian and Mexican motifs, which you will not find anywhere else in Morocco. As is customary in the country, you can observe the work of many artisans by visiting their workshops. On some streets there is a pleasant smell of wood - furniture is made here, on others you can hear the sound of dishes being minted here, on others ancient weaving looms rustle quietly. At the same time, buying anything in Chaven is always a calmer and more relaxed event than, for example, hectic and often too intrusive shopping in Fez.

All the main attractions of Chaven, all of its visible tourist life, are concentrated in the central square of the Old Town (Uta el-Hammam). The main advantage of the cafes and restaurants that fill the square is the presence of an open terrace on the top floor overlooking the city, mountains and the lively square itself with the ancient kasbah (fortress). This red sandstone fortress was built by the Portuguese who were defeated in 1578 at the Battle of El Ksar el Kebir (Alcazarquivir) and captured. They were forced to build dungeons for themselves, where they spent the last days of their lives. In 1926, a local hero, the main leader of the uprising of the peoples of the Rif against the Spanish conquerors, Abdu-l-Karim, nicknamed the “Wolf of the Rif,” was imprisoned in the fortress. True, some consider this unconfirmed fact just a legend, assuring that Abdul-Karim had never been to Shaven.

Behind the walls of the Kasbah there is a small but lush garden and a small ethnographic museum of Chaven. And very close to the fortress there is a very beautiful and rather unusual Main Mosque with an octagonal minaret. The mosque, built by the son of the founder of Chaven, Sidi Mohamed Alami, has always played a prominent role in the political and spiritual life of the city. The mosque building itself, whitewashed with lime, blends well with the white and blue houses surrounding the square, while the minaret, made of blood-red brick, looks good next to the ocher ruins of the Kasbah.

Ras el Ma is located in the north of the old city. This source of water is vital for the townspeople. Children play happily in the square and in the narrow streets of the Medina, and even kick a ball right in the small cemetery located near the fortress wall at the very top of the city. Berber children do not have fashionable European roller skates, bicycles and skateboards. They have only mountains and stones at their disposal, but using these improvised means, they have learned to have fun. The kids climb up a steep dirt road, place a flat stone on the dusty ground, sit on it like a sled, and roll down with joyful cries.

Neighborhoods of Chavin

The dazzling blue and white city lies in a green valley, surrounded on all sides by imposing mountain peaks. One look at Chaven from the outside is enough to fall in love with this picture once and for all. The Reef Mountains, in some places black, in others red, are covered either with coniferous forests, or with low-growing bushes and yellow flowers, cut by picturesque reddish gorges. Valleys with olive and date groves, tobacco plantations and cactus thickets. Small whitewashed houses scattered here and there on the hills. Piercing blue sky. And this whole picture is filled with bright sunlight and some incredible space. The two majestic twin mountains (Meggu, 1615 m, and Tisuka, 2050 m), at the foot of which Chaouen lies, their outlines resembled goat horns to the first settlers, so the city was nicknamed Chaouen, which, in fact, means “Horns” or "Horns". Later the name was changed a little. Chaven became Chefchaouen (or Chefchaouen), which is translated from the local dialect as “View of the horns.” Today, both names are actively used in Morocco, and in Russia the city is called Chaven.

Anyone who comes to Chaven must go to the mountains to admire the picturesque views of the surrounding area. The walk usually starts north of the Medina - from the famous Ras el-Ma spring, which supplies the entire city with fresh water. Crystal clear, icy water falls from the mountains in a cascade of small waterfalls. There is also an improvised laundry room where women wash clothes and even carpets using running water. Hiking routes to the mountains begin from the source. Winding paths meander between village houses, gardens, and plowed fields, gradually rising higher and higher. Along the way you come across either loaded donkeys, accompanied by Berbers in caftans with long pointed hoods that look like medieval wizards, or herds of goats deftly climbing up the mountain over rocks.

One of the hiking trails leads to a small hill on which stand the remains of an old destroyed mosque. These ruins are a kind of reason for Berber pride. The mosque was built by the Spaniards as a sign of their tolerance of local customs, but the building was destroyed by a lightning strike.

From this hill one of the best views of Chaven opens: the city, the mountains, and the valley - everything is in full view. It is especially good here to listen to how, far below, muezzins alternately begin to read evening prayers in several city mosques. The sounds of their mesmerizing voices are repeatedly reflected from the mountains, creating a “song” of incredible beauty and harmony. And something inside you shrinks when you hear these amazing sounds, see the crimson sunset sky hanging over the dark peaks of the mountains, watch how the lights begin to light up in the city, slowly sinking into the twilight. Still, Shaven is special. It is so strikingly different from any other city in Morocco that it seems that it is not Morocco at all. And at the same time, it is here, in Chaven, that the present, the true, has been preserved, which many strive to find in this mysterious land of the setting sun.

It is best to come to Chaven in April and May when it is especially picturesque. Flowers are blooming all over the city, the various shades of which contrast incredibly colorfully with the blue, azure and dark blue walls of the houses.

How to get to Chaven

The largest transport center closest to Chaven is the city of Tangier, located 85 kilometers to the northwest. You can also get to the “blue city” from Fez, Meknes, Casablanca, Rabat and other major tourist centers of Morocco.

Bus service is provided by the transport company CTM, whose flights connect Chaven with Fez and Meknes (travel time - four hours; ticket price - 70 MAD (~$8.6)), Casablanca (travel time - five and a half hours; bus departs daily at 13:15; ticket price - 120 MAD (~$14.8)), Rabat (travel time - four hours; bus leaves daily at 14:45; ticket price - 90 MAD (~$11.1)). You can get from Tangier with a transfer in Tetouan (total travel time is a couple of hours; ticket cost is about 45 MAD (~$5.5)).

There are no direct bus routes connecting Chaven with Agadir and Marrakech. It is best to get there with a transfer in Casablanca. Tickets can be purchased in advance at stations or on the CTM website. The Chaven bus station is located a short distance from the medina, at the bottom of the slope.

The city of Chefchaouen, Morocco, is located in the northwestern part of the country, in the Rif Mountains, between Tangier and Tétouan. There are several versions of the name of this city - Chaven, Chifchaun, Chefchaouen.

The name of the city of Chefchaouen comes from the shape of the peak of the Rif Mountain, which rises above the city. It resembles the horns of a goat. "Chef Chaouen" is translated as "look at the horns."

Getting to Chefchaouen is not so easy, but the flavor of this city is worth the long drive.

The city itself is one big attraction. It is famous primarily for the blue and light blue color of its houses and streets.

The streets in the city are narrow and winding, the roofs of the houses are often red, made of tiles. The streets are very clean. But the way the houses are painted is simply amazing - the walls are blue, light blue, azure white.

It is with the blue and white colors of the streets that this city attracts the attention of numerous tourists who, despite the long journey, travel to Chefchaouen.

Riad

A traditional Moroccan home is called a riad. Usually, the outside of a riad looks gray, but in Chefchaouen it has a blue, plastered wall with a small wooden door. It seems that such a house looks dull and unpresentable. But the riad has a second, hidden from prying eyes, facade that opens onto the courtyard. This arrangement of the house perfectly protects privacy; from the street it is impossible to guess what is happening inside. The owners are reliably protected by the thick walls of the fortress house.
Usually such a house has two floors, but there are exceptions. All living quarters are located around the courtyard, as if surrounding it on all sides with a gallery of rooms. Some larger homes have trees and fountains on the patio. And in smaller houses, the courtyard serves as a “living room” for the whole family. The decoration inside a traditional riad is usually very beautiful. The courtyard is tiled with mosaic tiles. The walls can be white, or they can be the brightest colors. And shutters and doors are often decorated with paintings.

Some riads have become small guest houses. Sometimes the owners live on the first floor and rent out the second floor to tourists.

Why is the city painted in these colors?

This tradition dates back to 1471. It was at this time that the Muslims, who defended their lands from the Portuguese invasion, built a fortress between the Reef Mountains. It had an extremely favorable location: it was protected by high mountain ranges, and the elevation on which the fortress was located made it possible to keep the surrounding lands under control.

When Jews from Spain found themselves here in the 15th-17th centuries looking for salvation, they decided to find refuge in this place. It was from them that this tradition came - to paint buildings blue. The fact is that Jews perform their prayers using several attributes. One of them is a prayer shawl, which in turn has a tzitzit (a bundle of threads woven in a special way). And one of the main components of such a bundle is a blue thread. It must necessarily be a special color “tchelet”, described in the Talmud as “the color of the sea, similar to the color of the sky, similar to the color of the Throne of Glory of the Most High.” The Jews painted their houses blue and thus remembered that God was very close to them, and in this way they could get closer to him.

Sacred, closed city

For a long time, Chefchaouen was declared a holy city. This completely closed the entrance to the territory for non-religious people. Those who wanted to disobey had to risk their own lives. Despite the fact that Chefchaouen is geographically close to Spain, Portugal, as well as the Mediterranean Sea and the Strait of Gibraltar, before the beginning of the 20th century, only three Europeans visited the blue city.

Each of them had to try a lot to avoid being detected by the local population. Thus, the French researcher Charles Eugene Foucault, in order to get into the city, disguised himself as a rabbi and stayed on the territory of the forbidden city for no more than an hour. The next uninvited guest of the blue city was Walter Harris, a correspondent for The Times. He pretended to be a Moorish merchant, but spent most of the time he was able to spend in Chefchaouen as a vagabond. And least of all was William Summers. This American missionary managed to get into the territory of Chefchaouen, but soon after that, he was poisoned.

In 1912, thanks to the Franco-Spanish agreement, Spanish troops entered the territory of the blue city and presented its beauty to the outside world.

The most popular month to visit Chefchaouen is April. It is then that hundreds of exotic flowers bloom here, which further transform the beautiful city.

To create the tchelet color, the ancient Jews used natural dye. It was extracted from certain types of shellfish. Over time, the recipe for creating the “divine shade” was lost, and its production was stopped.

In addition, the city is famous for its wool. On the streets of Chefchaouen you can see many craft workshops. Chefchaouen is also famous for its colorful woolen carpets, fabrics and excellent cheese made from mountain goat milk.

The main attractions of Chefchaouen are located in the central square of the Old Town. There is a red sandstone fortress built in 1578 by captured Portuguese, an unusual mosque with an octagonal minaret and magnificent mountains. In one of the towers there is a small ethnographic museum with a collection of embroideries and costumes.

In this unique city you can feel the spirit of the Middle Ages, clean mountain air and an impressive atmosphere.

What does the celestial city look like? According to many, it must certainly be located in the mountains, so that clouds would walk sedately over the tops of low houses. It must be very warm here! And the sky here should be so close that, if you try a little, you can reach it with your hand. Surprisingly, such a place exists. And these are not the inventions of Hollywood directors, but the real blue city of Chefchaouen, which is located in Morocco.

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This northwestern part of Morocco is known for its tranquil landscapes and particularly vibrant skies above. If you look at Chefchaouen from afar, you get the impression that there is a cloud above the city that casts its transparent shadow on buildings with warm red roofs. However, if you come closer, you can see that the light bluish tint to the city is not given by a large cloud (there are practically no such clouds over Morocco), but by houses, which, as if according to the idea of a modern artist, are painted blue.

Indeed, if you walk through the narrow streets of Chefchaouen, you can see the stunning feature of this city: houses, stairs, window frames and even flower pots here are painted in all shades of blue. It was as if the sky itself had decided to dissolve into the city in this way, bringing all the local residents closer to itself.

Why blue?

All tourists who continue to come to Chefchaouen to this day ask an absolutely logical question: where did this unusual tradition of painting buildings and numerous decorative items blue come from? After all, when we talk about Morocco, we immediately imagine a colorful variety of colors and patterns that create a unique oriental atmosphere. Therefore, this preference for blue over all others is often especially incomprehensible.

Today, on the streets of Chefchaouen you can find all shades: azure, like the surface of the sea, deep blue, reminiscent of infinity. However, thekhelet is originally a pale blue color, mostly close to white. The current state of the Moroccan city is explained by the desire of local residents to make money from tourists. They succeed: the bluest streets become the most popular. Nevertheless, even this commercial move does not make Chefchaouen any less attractive, because in addition to the special color of the walls, there is that same oriental flavor that so attracts people from all over the world.

Everything changed in 1912, when, thanks to a Franco-Spanish agreement, Spanish troops entered the territory of the blue city and presented its beauty to the outside world.

The most popular product that Chefchaouen is famous for is hashish. This is due to the fact that the city is surrounded by several huge hemp plantations. That is why almost every Moroccan, young and old, winks at confused tourists and offers “ha-a-shish” in a whistling whisper. Of course, in addition to this, there are other famous products here. For example, the famous goat cheese, for which people come from all over the area.

The most popular month to visit Chefchaouen is April. It is then that hundreds of exotic flowers bloom here, which further transform the beautiful city.

If you manage to visit Chefchaouen, you will forever take with you an extraordinary feeling of peace and tranquility. You will remember the beautiful fairy-tale city, in which the bright blue walls of the houses are set off by their cozy red roofs and where you will never leave the feeling that you have, at least a little, touched the sky.

Chaven, also known as the Blue City, is located in the Rif Valley in northern Morocco. It is considered one of the most beautiful cities in Morocco due to its colors. Houses, walls, doors, windows, fountains, and even streets are painted blue. Founded in 1471, Chaven was considered for many centuries as an inviolable and sacred place where foreigners were not allowed.

History of the city of Chaven

The ancient part of the city reflects the typical style of Andalusia, which is not surprising since its population originally consisted of exiled Andalusians, Muslims and Jews who came here in search of a safe place to live. Even today, the majority of Chavin's residents still speak Spanish. Not a traditional tourist destination until the 1950s, Chefchaven (that's the city's full name) is now a haven for photographers as well as hashish smokers, thanks to the cultivation of cannabis, which is only legal in these valleys of Morocco, employing hundreds of people. The amount of hashish produced in this area corresponds to 40% of world production - more than 80% of hemp from Morocco is supplied to Europe. The farmers of Chavin are among the first producers of this banned substance.

Speculation about the blue shades used to paint the old city continues to this day. Some say it is the work of Jewish refugees, associating this tone with heaven. Others argue that this is just an aesthetic choice and that the blue color is great for repelling mosquitoes. In any case, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the charming city of Chaven is testament to the fusion of the Andalusian world and the Moroccan world. A true pearl of bluish luster, carefully restored and carefully preserved in the Reef mountain range. It is also one of the most beautiful cities in Morocco, equal in beauty to other colored cities in the world.

Old Town of Chavin

Shopping in this beautiful blue city is one of its biggest attractions. It may not be as diverse or grand as big cities like Fez, Marrakech and Casablanca, but Chaven boasts traditional charm. Once you've explored the blue maze of streets, consider buying some traditional souvenirs. Tourists will enjoy the relaxed atmosphere that is hard to find in big cities. Here you can take a leisurely stroll at your leisure and appreciate the local leather goods for which Chefchaven is so famous.

Beyond the blue streets of Chaven lies a natural landscape, surrounding the city on all sides and making it even more picturesque. About a 30-minute taxi ride from the city center is a tempting hiking trail that, after a short walk, leads to stunning waterfalls. The clear blue waters match the city's blue theme, and visitors can swim in the rock pools or admire the majestic watercourses. In this area, you should definitely visit the famous Bridge of God - a stone arch crossing the river.

In the center of Chavin lie the beautiful Andalusian Gardens - a tranquil green oasis complementing the already tranquil flow of blue. Worth visiting in these gardens is the Ethnographic Museum, known as the Kasbah Museum, which invites visitors to explore its unparalleled collection of artefacts. They will tell you the history of Chavin in many forms, from ceramics to musical instruments. Moreover, the museum even has a small art gallery. A visit to the museum will allow you to learn about the history and culture of this beautiful city, appreciate its aesthetics and traditions.

Every city has its own square, and Chefchaven is no exception. In the heart of the old city is Outa el Hammam Square, famous for its atmosphere where Arab and Spanish influences intersect. This can be seen in fantastic cuisine, from street food to restaurants. The central point of Chavin is great for relaxing and viewing the majestic mountains. It also offers people-watching in the heart of city activity.

I learned about this place in 2012, while preparing for our first trip to Morocco. I remember well how, when I saw photographs of bright blue tones online, the first thing I thought about was a technical defect and a violation of the color balance. They looked too unusual. However, having visited the blue city twice, I was convinced that this amazing place exists in reality...
morocco, chefchaouen, chefchaouen, blue city in morocco, photo tour in morocco, tour in morocco, blue city of chefchaouen
So, Chefchaouen is the famous blue city, located among the gentle slopes of the Rif Mountains in northern Morocco.

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The city is primarily known for its historical part - the medina, where the walls of houses, painted in rich, cold shades of blue, harmoniously combine with the warm orange tones of roofs, stairs and other decorative elements. You can wander here for hours, enjoying the color palette and relaxed atmosphere...

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The history of the city begins in 1471, when the emir Moula Ali bin Moussa bin Rashid el Alami founded the first mosque and a powerful fortress on the site of a small Berber village to protect against the Portuguese invaders, who then gained a foothold in the north of the country in the city of Ceuta.

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But the city owes its unique appearance to the Andalusian Jews who settled in Chefchaouen after their expulsion from Spain in 1492. According to biblical precepts, blue and light blue shades should symbolize the prayer shawl tallit (tales) and remind of God.

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Today there are no Jews left here, but local residents continue the established tradition and regularly update the walls with fresh paint, because... this serves as a powerful impetus to attract tourists.

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An interesting fact is that for a long time the city was declared a sacred place and visiting it by non-believers was prohibited on pain of death.
Before the beginning of the 20th century, only three Europeans visited Chefchaouen. And this despite its proximity to the Mediterranean Sea, the Strait of Gibraltar, Spain and Portugal!
The first was the famous French African explorer and missionary Charles Eugene de Foucauld (1858–1916), who arrived in Chefchaouen in 1883 for just one hour and disguised as a rabbi. The second was a correspondent for The Times of London, Walter Harris, who traveled to Morocco in the late 1880s. He entered the city disguised as a Moorish merchant and lived there for some time as a vagabond. The third one was the least fortunate. It was the American missionary William Summers, who was poisoned during his visit to the city in 1892.
And only after the Franco-Spanish agreement of November 27, 1912, Spanish troops entered Chefchaouen, thus opening it to the outside world.

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As you know, where there are tourists, trade is always in full swing. Chefchaouen is no exception. In the medina, you can find various souvenirs and woolen products (carpets, clothes, etc.) of bright colors and designs on open sale everywhere.

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Koté... as in all of Morocco, there are a lot of stray cats living here.

And in this yard there probably lives a fan of hard rock :)

Unlike other Moroccan cities, the Chefchaouen medina is very clean (the city even received a national award for sanitary conditions). In addition, it is also populated, that is, it is primarily a residential area.

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There are a lot of children in the medina, who rush to school with large backpacks in the morning, and in the afternoon rush noisily through the narrow streets, playing games.

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On the old walls of the medina you can see a completely modern telephone set.

Low crossing between streets.

In addition to blue variegated flowers, you can also find warm shades of walls in the medina.

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Chefchaouen is called the capital of Moroccan hashish, thanks to the numerous cannabis plantations in the area.
It’s easy to verify this statement: while walking along the narrow blue streets of the medina, a seller of souvenirs or cakes will come up to you more than once and in a quiet whisper offer “ha-shiish”
And when you smell the specific aroma of “weed” floating everywhere in the air, you believe that the product is real.