Description of the breed - Scottish Fold kittens

Over the past twenty years, the Scottish Fold has acquired its own, recognizable type, despite crossing with American and British Shorthair cats.

This breed does not have to be massive, with a compact body and short legs, like the British. A distinctive feature is the unusual ears, the fold at the base of which causes the ear to lean forward. The Scottish Fold is a medium-sized cat with a round, well-filled body and short, thick and elastic hair. She has large, round, wide-set eyes with an even color, round, shaggy paws and a short nose with a soft curve in profile.

Animals of this breed come in two types: with hanging ears (folded ears) and straight ears (straight). Fold occurs due to incompleteness of the dominant gene and is the result of a random mutation.

Relatively recently, the ranks of shorthaired folds have been replenished with their semi-longhaired variation, called the Highland Fold. These cats have retained all the characteristic features of the breed, having acquired an elegant, fluffy coat. Highlands have not yet become widespread in Russia, but they are confidently finding their admirers among cat lovers.

The lop ear gene is dominant, but the expressiveness (severity) of its action in kittens, even within the same litter, looks different. They love human society and show it with all their appearance. Scottish cats adapt well to both densely populated apartments full of running children and dogs, and to small spaces. They are not afraid and get along well with other animals.

Scottish Fold kittens are born with normal straight ears. At three to four weeks of age, their ears flatten or remain erect. By twelve weeks it is already possible to determine the quality of the kitten: show, breeding or pet. Only cats with laid ears are show dogs, so getting such kittens is the dream of every breeder.

Photo: Peter Perepelkin, Portlembec, Heikki Siltala

Origin of the Scottish Fold breed

Modern representatives of the Scottish Fold arose as a result of spontaneous mutation. On a Scottish farm in 1961, farmer William Ross noticed a cat whose ears were turned down. She gave birth to two kittens, one of which was purchased by Ross. He registered a white female and began to create a new breed. It became clear that curled ears were a dominant trait.

Scottish fold kittens: description of the breed, photo

The degree of lop-earedness in different animals is completely different and manifests itself regardless of the genotype.

The gene for lop ears is dominant. However, at the very beginning of the development of the Scottish Fold breed, breeders faced serious problems associated with disorders of the musculoskeletal system. Such serious complications led to the fact that in 1971, the largest felinological organization in Europe, GCCF, came to the conclusion that the presence of drooping ears in a cat and similar bone anomalies are directly related. As a result, the breed was banned in its homeland of Scotland and England.

Perhaps, this would be the end of the story of one of the most attractive cats, if some of them had not found a second home in America. Here in Massachusetts, at the Carnivore Science Center, under the leadership of geneticist Neil Todd, the nature of inheritance of the lop-eared gene was studied in detail. Neil found that musculoskeletal disorders in Scottish Folds only occur if the cat's genotype contains a combination of only dominant genes.

Based on this, breeders of this breed were asked to change their breeding programs and stop mating folds with each other. For breeding with folds, it was proposed to use straight cats - cats with ordinary erect ears.

Photo Fold kittens (click to enlarge):

Photo: Brandi.head, tata_aka_T, Kostj

Characteristics of the Scottish Fold

The Scottish Fold has relatively low requirements and does not require special handling. To be happy, he requires a clean environment, plenty of food and, above all, the sympathy of his owners.
Scottish Fold cats have a sense of humor and frolic when their owners play and laugh with him. His appearance alone puts anyone in a good mood.

The head of the Scottish Fold cat is well rounded, with a firm chin and well-developed jaws. The muzzle should have visible and well-rounded whisker pads. The head smoothly turns into a short, strong neck. The cheeks are well developed, especially in Scottish cats.

Eyes wide open. Large, round, widely set. Eye color generally matches coat color. The Scottish Fold has a wide nose with a slight transition. A small stop is acceptable, but a noticeable stop is considered a fault. The profile is soft, moderately streamlined. The ears are folded forward and down. Small, the smaller the better. Small, well-proportioned ears are preferred. The ears of a fold cat should be set in such a way as to emphasize the rounded skull. The tips of the ears should be rounded.

The body is medium in size, rounded, proportionate at the level of the shoulders and croup. The cat is strong, densely built, but without a hint of fatness or lack of mobility due to short, rough limbs. The feet are very neat and well rounded, with five toes on the front feet and four on the hind feet. Scottish Fold cats can be slightly smaller than male cats. The tail is medium to long, but in proportion to the body.

The Scottish Fold's coat is short, dense, plush, and uniform. Coat texture may vary depending on color or regional and seasonal variations. The length of the coat is medium-long to long. Abundant hair on the face and body is desirable, but short hair is allowed on the face and limbs. “Panties”, tail feathering, tufts of hair between toes and ear feathering should be clearly visible, a collar is desirable. A serious drawback of adult animals is cotton wool.

Photo Fold kittens (click to enlarge):

Photo: Gothicrococo, tata_aka_T, Heha8

Scottish cat colors

All cats are gray at night, but what do they look like during the day? Let's take a closer look at the patterns on the coats of Scottish cats. It would be hard to find two dressed exactly alike. These fashionistas have in their wardrobe much more outfits than the British ones, and there are about two hundred colors, to describe which cattery breeders use mainly English terminology.

black fold-eared Scottish cat We jokingly mention the “outfits” of Scottish cats, since the English word tabby, according to some sources, was first applied to oriental moire fabrics. The literal translation from English is tabby - striped cat. This is the main, so-called “wild” color, characteristic of many wild animals, especially young ones.

The most prominent representative of the cat family with this color is the tiger. That is why this color is called brindle. In English, this color is called mackerel, because to the British it resembles a mackerel fish, or mackerel. A Scottish brindle cat should have an "M" pattern on its forehead, three closed rings in the form of a necklace on its chest, and rings on its legs and tail.

Tabby includes three more colors that come from the main, tabby. If the stripes are interrupted along the length, spots appear. A spotted pattern appears, spotted in English. Ideally, in a spotted pattern, the spots should not merge anywhere to form stripes. The third option for tabby is a marbled pattern, or blotched. In this case, the stripes are not straight, but are intricately curved, forming intricate patterns. This color is also called classic tabby. It allows for a combination of even stripes on the back and rings and even more complex patterns on the sides and shoulders.

Scottish Fold cat silver-black marble The fourth tabby color is Abyssinian, or ticked. It was first discovered in Abyssinian cats. It is formed as a result of ticking, that is, zonal coloring of each hair with rings, and the tip should be dark. This color resembles the fur coat of a hare or rabbit. All tabby colors consist of a combination of basic solid colors: white, silver, black, red, blue and lightened options: chocolate, cream, lilac. A Scottish cat can also be dressed in a plain coat. This color is called solid.

The next group consists of tipped colors, which are formed as a result of incomplete coloring of the hairs. When coloring only the ends of the hairs, approximately 1/5 of the length, shadow colors appear. When half a hair is dyed, “smoke” colors are obtained.

It has been noticed that Scottish cats, unlike British ones, love white. Many colors in the Scottish breed are associated with the presence of white spots of various sizes, these are the so-called piebald colors. These include harlequin - a white background with spots of a different color, randomly located and of any shape. The color of the spots is the main color. Bicolors - white takes up approximately half of the total color.

The tortoiseshell colors of Scottish cats resemble the shells of tortoises. They are characterized by a combination of spots of different colors: red (cream) and black (chocolate, blue, purple). The color can consist of two primary colors, for example, blue-cream, lilac-cream. Tricolors and particolores are a combination of tortoiseshell and white.

As a rule, all tortoiseshell colors are found only in cats. Scottish cats allow such colorful “clothing” only for their chosen ones, and they themselves “dress” more modestly. If in the rarest of cases a cat of this tortoiseshell color appears, he will certainly turn out to be sterile.

Photo Fold kittens (click to enlarge):

Photo: Psychopat, Ilovefoldie, Oksana Sorochan

Feeding fold kittens

Proper and timely feeding is the key to good health and longevity of your pet. When choosing a diet, remember that a cat is a carnivore by nature; meat must be present in its menu.

The cat refuses to feed the kittens, what can replace cat milk?

Use a milk replacer for newborn kittens. For example, "Royal Canin Babycat Milk" or "Beaphar Kitty Milk". These products are made from easily digestible whey and are very similar in composition and taste to natural cat milk.

Should kittens be given vitamins?

If you feed natural products, you need to add vitamins, minerals (calcium) and taurine to the food. Ready-made balanced foods of the “Premium” and “Super Premium” classes already contain all the necessary nutrients and minerals for the proper development of the kitten.

What is better to feed a kitten, dry food or pates?

Pates can be alternated with dry food, the interval between feedings is at least 2 hours. If a kitten is fed only soft food (pates), plaque forms on the teeth, the teeth change later, since there is no load on them, and the kitten may even forget how to chew. Dry food cleans teeth well of plaque. Special food for small kittens can be given from 4 weeks. On food packages, the manufacturer indicates how much to feed. Measure exactly according to instructions and do not overfeed. Make sure that water is always freely available, this is very important when feeding artificial dry food.

Photo Fold kittens (click to enlarge):

Photo: SolnishkoA, Vladimir Chubarov, Jenny S. Zitzmann

Caring for Scottish Fold kittens

From childhood, a Scottish kitten must be accustomed to daily care, then in the future he will understand that examining his ears, eyes, teeth, and grooming is part of his life.

Once every two weeks we examine the cat’s ears: the ear shells should be clean, without rashes, plaque, or unpleasant odor. Using a cotton swab, carefully clean the ear canal. In a healthy animal, sulfur is light and odorless. Often longer hairs called “tassels” grow at the end of the ear. They need to be removed. To do this, hold the tip of the ear with the fingers of one hand, and at the same time cut the hairs or pluck them with the other (carefully).

The eyes of British and Scottish Fold cats generally do not require special care. In the morning, sometimes dark plaque accumulates in the corners of the eyes, which is removed with boiled water applied to a soft cloth or napkin. Purulent discharge is unacceptable and is a reason to consult a doctor.

Inspection and trimming of claws is carried out once every 2-3 weeks. Before cutting, look at the claw in the light: it contains a blood vessel that should not be touched. For cutting, it is better to use special pliers - nail clippers, which can be purchased at pet stores.

The animal's fur also requires care. The British are the only short-haired breed that likes to be brushed against the grain. 2 times a week, using a metal brush and a massage brush, we comb the coat, first in the direction of hair growth, and then against it. This is a wonderful massage. Comb the fur first on the back, along the sides, and on the chest. The cheeks and neck are massaged “towards the face”, i.e. against the grain. After combing, excess fur is removed with wet hands or a special rubber mitten.

Cat toilet

For the cat litter box, you need to choose a secluded but accessible place. The most convenient thing is a toilet or bathroom. It is strictly forbidden to place a litter tray in the animal's resting and eating areas. The tray is washed with non-toxic, odorless detergents, best with baby soap and a sponge specially designed for this. If possible, the tray should be as large as possible and have curved sides (this is convenient not for the cat, but for the owner).

Currently, pet stores have a large selection of litter for toilets. Keep the toilet clean every day, change the substrate partially as you use it.

At first, you need to make sure that the kitten correctly determines the location of its litter box. As soon as the baby starts fussing, finely moving his paws, squatting, digging in the wrong place, take him to the litter tray and make sure he uses it. Praise him, caress him.

Place to sleep and relax

A cat’s favorite sleeping mattress is a flat pad about ten centimeters thick. It is advisable to raise the bed above the floor.

Place for sharpening claws

To ensure that their claws are always “ready for battle,” cats sharpen them several times a day, while they mark the boundaries of their personal territory with the help of a secretion secreted by the sebaceous glands on their toes.

To protect your furniture from cat claws, carpets, walls, buy or make yourself a special post for the claw point. The height of the column must be at least 40 centimeters.

Accustoming a kitten to the scratching post

Bring the kitten to the post several times a day, especially after sleep. Reward your kitten for good behavior. During the training period, those places that the kitten tries to scratch must be covered (with plastic, film). You can rub orange peel on problem areas, and if you are leaving home, tie the peel to the scratched area. The most severe punishment for a kitten should be a sharp shout of “No!” Be consistent and persistent.

Photo Fold kittens (click to enlarge):

STAGES OF KITTEN DEVELOPMENT

Starting from the fifth day of life, kittens’ ears begin to open, and by the age of three weeks, the ears, rising, take on the shape that is familiar to us. The eyes of cats of different breeds usually open from 7 to 14 days. First, a “tear” appears in the corner of the eye, then a small slit, and now we see the child’s stupid, faded blue eyes. The same as all newborns in the world. During this period, it is very important that the kittens are in a dark place. The bright light of day is not yet desirable for them. Kittens finally begin to see the light by the 14th day of life. If by this time the eyes have not yet opened, you should wash the kitten’s glued eyelids with an infusion of strong tea leaves or a weak solution of boric acid and carefully try to open the eyes.

The time the eyes open depends on the duration of pregnancy. If a cat gives birth on days 68-70, the kittens' eyes open earlier. Short-haired cat breeds have eyes that open earlier than long-haired cats. There are also breeds whose eyes open on days 3-5 (sphinxes, rexes).

Eye pigmentation begins after 3 weeks of age; by 9-12 weeks they acquire their color. But the final formation of eye color can be completed only by 6-12 months of age. In Siamese kittens, the intense blue eyes of adolescence, on the contrary, may later become more faded.

From the 12th day of life, their milk teeth appear: first incisors, then canines, then premolars. 6-8 week old kittens have a mouth full of needle-sharp teeth, with which they already painfully bite their mother while feeding. At this time, the formation of the kitten’s bite should be monitored. In addition, kittens can scratch a cat with their sharp claws, which have not yet been ground down by anything. They should be trimmed carefully (the white dead ends) to avoid injury to the eyes of littermates and the cat's mammary glands.

From two to five weeks, kittens are actively involved in the processes occurring in the nest, and if previously they were entirely dependent on the behavior of the mother, now they simply demand to be fed.

From approximately day 18, kittens stand on their paws and begin to walk by day 21.

Scottish fold cat

At the age of 25 days, kittens are already oriented both by sight and hearing. From that moment on, they try to eat from a saucer on their own. At four weeks of age, they begin to have independent bowel movements and urination.

Stages of development in the first year of life
The ear canal opens 5-8 days
eyes open 7-12 days
first teeth from 12 to 21 days
they determine the direction of sound from 13 - 16 days
they see us from 14 days
“manicure, pedicure” from 18 days
they stand on their paws from 18 days
they start walking from 21 to 30 days
eye pigmentation from 21 days
fangs erupt from 21 days
prevention of helminths
(urgent need) from 21 days
they are fed from 30 days
toilet training from 30 days
prevention of helminths
(norm) 5-10 week
critical period
(loss of colostral immunity) from 6 to 16 weeks
first vaccination 8-12 weeks
revaccination
(according to vaccination instructions) before teeth change
change of owner from 12-14 weeks
change of teeth
(weakening of immunity) from 3.5 to 7 months
rabies vaccination
(if necessary) from 6 months
puberty from 4 to 20 months
sterilization of a cat after 2-3 heats
castration of a cat after 7-8 months
the period of intensive growth (80%) is over 7 months

If you decide to buy a Scottish Fold kitten, you are already in luck: in addition to the fact that the kittens of this breed are incredibly charming plush creatures, keeping them is a real pleasure.

The breed of Scottish Fold cats dates back to 1961, when William Ross found a funny kitten with ears curled forward cutely on a farm in Scotland. The lop-eared nature of these animals is due to the incompleteness of the dominant gene and is the result of a random mutation. At the moment, there are 2 varieties of this breed: Scottish Straight (straight ears) and Scottish Fold (hanging ears).

Scottish kittens are all born with straight ears, which then lie down or remain the same. By the time of purchase (2.5 - 3 months), you can already determine whether the kitten is straight or fold.

Scottish Fold. About the cat breed: description of the Scottish Fold breed, prices, photos, care

If you want to purchase a fold-eared kitten, make sure that its ears have a strong enough crease, otherwise the ears may rise later.

Also, when purchasing, you should pay attention to the content of advertisements for sale: do not buy from breeders offering to buy “British Fold” from them. Such a breed simply does not exist, and this is an indicator that these breeders themselves do not really understand who they are selling, which means that their pedigree may turn out to be fake. Remember that you are buying a Scottish Fold cat.

People often hesitate when choosing between British Shorthairs and Scottish Fold cats. To make your choice more informed, you need to know the main difference between these breeds: character and bones.

The British are more capricious, and real Scottish ones are children's favorites, whom you can pet and cuddle to your heart's content. The British will not allow such freedom to anyone, not even children. Scottish cats are lighter, as they were bred taking into account the bitter experience of the British, who, due to their heavy frames, had problems with bones and ligaments.

It should also be said that there are two lines of Scottish breeding: with an admixture of British and without (American line). Based on this, by studying the pedigree before purchasing, you can conclude what kind of character the kitten will have. The more British admixture in the pedigree, the greater the chance that your kitten will grow up wayward and freedom-loving.

Scottish kittens are very smart and intelligent. They quickly adapt to living conditions in an apartment and are distinguished by a very fast level of learning. You yourself will be surprised that even during the most turbulent period of your pet’s life (adolescence), you will not see him hanging on the curtain or jumping on the Christmas tree.

Scottish people love the company of people very much. They need human attention like air; it is important to pet them and talk to them. You will immediately notice: wherever you go, the kitten will quickly follow you, as it is unbearable for him to be left alone. Therefore, if you know in advance that your animal will spend most of the time at home alone, then it is better to choose some other breed of cat. Of course, the way out of this situation may be to purchase two plush pets at once. Then your friends will never be bored, even if you leave early in the morning and return late in the evening. If, nevertheless, you have already irrevocably settled on Scottish, but you cannot handle two kittens, then be sure to leave some interesting toy for the kitten when you leave home: a ball or a toy with a spring attached to a stand.

The Scottish character, as already noted, is flexible and very affectionate. But this, we remind you, is only if the British do not dominate his ancestry. Caring for Scottish kittens is based on five “pillars”: brushing, bathing, caring for eyes and ears and claws.

It is necessary to accustom pets to these procedures from early childhood so that in the future they perceive them as part of their normal life.

To comb out, you need to purchase a special brush. Scottish cats can have short plush fur and long fur (this breed is called Highland Fold). Once you determine your kitten's fur type, you can choose the necessary brush and shampoos suitable for it at the pet store.

Of course, there is much less hassle with a short fold skin. It is enough to comb it about once a week with a special brush or use brushes with very fine teeth, preferably made of natural bristles. The Scots (along with the British) are the only cat breed that likes to be scratched against the grain. We recommend brushing your pet as follows: first brush in the direction of hair growth, and then against the hair. It is best to comb first on the back, then along the sides, and then on the chest. The cheeks and neck are combed towards the muzzle, that is, against the fur. After combing, excess hair can be collected with wet hands or a special rubber mitten.

Wash Scottish cats as needed - when dandruff appears, when dirty, or before a show. Don't get carried away with bathing your little kitten. Do this only if washing is truly necessary. If your pet is preparing for an exhibition and has a dark color (black, chocolate, tortoiseshell), then it should be washed 7-10 days before the exhibition. In 4-5 days - if your pet is of a contrasting or light color - colorpoint, blue, silver, cream tabby. In 2-3 days, if you are the owner of a bicolor, light colorpoint or chinchilla. White cats can be washed the day before or in the morning of the exhibition.

It is best to examine the ears of Scottish cats 2 times a month to avoid excessive accumulation of dust and wax in the ears: the kitten’s shells should be clean, free of rashes, plaque and unpleasant odor. If you find dirt, carefully open the auricle and, using a cotton swab moistened with ear cleaning fluid, clean the ear canal with even more careful shallow movements. If the sulfur you find is light in color and without a strong odor, then your pet is healthy. If you find that your kitten is acting restless, often scratching its ears and shaking its head, then this is a sure sign that your pet has ear mites (Otodectes cynotis). Look inside the animal's ear and carefully check the inner surface for the presence of dark brown or black plaque, escudate and scabs. Having discovered these signs, you can be sure that your pet has contracted ear scabies, but, of course, an accurate diagnosis can only be made in a veterinary clinic. Often, Scottish cats grow so-called “tassels” at the end of their ears - longer hairs - they need to be removed. Hold the tip of the ear and carefully trim or pluck any unwanted hairs.

The eyes of a Scottish Fold cat generally do not require special care. The only thing you should pay attention to is the accumulation of dark plaque at the inner corner of the eyes. It just needs to be removed as it accumulates with a cotton swab or napkin moistened with warm boiled water. If you notice that the plaque is different from normal and looks like a purulent discharge, contact your veterinarian immediately.

Scottish Fold nail care should be done once every 2-3 weeks. Before you start trimming your claws, carefully examine the claw in the light to see where the blood vessel ends, which you absolutely must not touch. This will cause the kitten incredible pain, and possibly long-term fear of having their nails trimmed. It is advisable to trim the claws on the front paws twice a month, and on the hind paws once is enough, cutting off the very tip of the claw 1-2 mm long. This should be done so that the kitten has less chance of injuring its owner during play or damaging your furniture. To make trimming your nails less of a burden, it’s better to buy special clippers at the pet store – a nail clipper. Do not use scissors under any circumstances: they will damage the structure of the nail.

In addition to trimming the claws, to ensure the complete safety of your furniture, it is important to teach your pet from childhood to use a special post for sharpening its claws - a “scratching post”. The height of the column must be at least 40 centimeters.

To accustom a kitten to a “scratching post,” bring it to the post every day and, taking its paws, begin to make movements similar to the animal’s natural movements when sharpening its claws. To attract your kitten to the scratching post, you can soak it in catnip or valerian. If the kitten independently begins to sharpen its claws in the right place, be sure to encourage it, treat it with a treat, and caress it.

In any case, remember that Scottish Fold kittens are the same small creatures as kittens of any other breed. For them, as for others, the most important thing is your care, affection and love.

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Acceptable and popular colors of Scottish Fold cats. Features of coat color, eyes and pattern. Are there different colored fold-eared cats?

Scottish Fold cats are a common breed, notable for their unusual ear structure and rounded muzzle. The first lop-eared specimen named Susie appeared in Scotland, its color was solid white.

She gave birth to kittens with the same mutation, and William Ross adopted one of them in 1961. He obtained offspring and passed them on to local breeders. Subsequently, cats with curled ears were crossed with the British breed, Persians and others. Therefore, the variety of colors in Scottish Folds is practically unlimited.

Standard Scottish Fold colors

Most felinological organizations allow the following types of colors:

• Solid - a solid background without a pattern;
• Tabby - the pattern is expressed on any background;
• Spotted - spots of different colors on the main white;
• Calico, tortoiseshell - alternating white, black, red spots;
• Lightened and shaded - blue, cream, lilac, chinchilla;
• Color point - light body fur, darker paws, tail, mask on the face.

Important: The CFA standard excludes the following colors of Scottish Folds: color point and all lightened ones, classifying them as consequences of crossbreeding with other breeds.

It is difficult to find out what the real color of the ancestor of the Scottish Fold, Susie, is. Cats and cats have two genetic colors - red (red) and black.

White can be compared to a cape or cloak; underneath it hides the true color. Blue, chocolate, lilac are variations of black, and cream is red, like calico. Therefore, when mating with a white fold cat, they look at the colors of the closest relatives (parents, grandparents).

The colors are described in detail in the standards. However, a lot of attention is paid to physique during assessment.

Fold-eared kitten or not - how to determine?

For example, the maximum score for coat and eye color is 5, and for anatomy - up to 40.

Solid colors

This type assumes a solid color of saturated colors: black, red, chocolate, white. Any stains are not allowed, both lightened and darkened. In solid dogs, the tabby pattern in all forms is undesirable.

In kittens, in the first months of life, stripes, dots, and rosettes may be visible, but with age they completely disappear or remain barely noticeable on the paws, tail, muzzle, and neck in the form of a necklace.

The solid colors of Scottish Fold cats are among the most popular, especially black and bleached. Breeders have problems with red and ginger cats.

The pattern on their fur is almost always visible and it is very difficult to obtain an even distribution of pigment throughout the entire coat. The eyes of such cats should be orange or copper.

Tabby

Tabby- a pattern that is formed due to the special coloring of the hairs. The guard coat is divided into areas with varying pigment intensities. This effect is called ticking.

There are several types of tabby Scottish Fold cats.

Tiger or mackerel- there is a longitudinal dark line on the back and upper part of the tail, and dark stripes on the sides. A very popular drawing.

Marble- a bright and memorable pattern of wide and non-straight stripes, which is formed by darkened wool. There are a number of dots in the abdomen area, and a blurred butterfly pattern on the shoulders. Three fuzzy stripes along the spine are required.

Spotted Tabby- rounded spots on the sides, and a dark stripe with breaks on the back. Sometimes this pattern alternates with lines.

The background can be anything, even the color points on the colored areas are tabby. The brighter the pattern, the more valuable the Scottish Fold color. These cats have a dark outline around the nose and eyes. Light areas and white spots are undesirable. The eye color is in harmony with the main background and can be orange or copper.

Spotted colors

This is one of the most advanced categories. On any background the following types of spotting are possible:

• Harlequin- colored spots on the head, tail, back;
• Wang- spots of any color on the head and tail on a white background. The ears should be white;
• Bicolor- on the face there is a white spot in the form of an inverted Latin letter “V”, of any shape on the paws, chin, chest, belly and collar on the neck.

Important: A symmetrical arrangement of spots in all of the listed points is desirable.

Until recently, Scottish Folds with white spots were very rare. Now breeders are developing this direction. Tabby may appear on the spots. Bicolors have golden or blue eyes of varying intensities.

Calicos, tortoiseshells

It is known that cats are mostly born this way, and a male tricolor is a rare occurrence and without the possibility of procreation. Tortoiseshell Scottish Folds are distinguished by alternating red and black spots.

Color variations are possible, for example, lightening, then areas of the coat will be blue and cream. Breeders strive to produce “turtles” with uniform coloring and a symmetrical arrangement of spots.

Calicos are rare among Scottish Folds, but the cats look very impressive. They are recognized by their white background and colored spots. There may also be bright colors and weakened ones. Diluted calico - there is much more white base.

Eye color depends on the base color and the distribution of spots on the head and face. In any case, a bright and shining color is welcome.

Calico cats are prized for their diversity of offspring. The name of the color in translation is “patchwork”, which completely describes the appearance of the animal.

Highlighted, smoky and shaded

Black pigment sometimes does not appear as bright as red. Then kittens with bleached fur are born. These include colors:

• Cream;
• Blue;
• Lilac;
• Chocolate (cinnamon);
• Brown;
• Silver.

Important: Brown is significantly different from cinnamon. Cats with chocolate fur have a warm undertone that fades to red. And the paw pads and nose are dark pink.

Smoky color- half of the hair is dyed in a regular color (red, cream, black, etc.), and the lower part at the roots is almost white, that is, with extreme lightening. Such Scottish Folds are not popular at shows, but smoky kittens are often born.

Chinchillas are rightfully considered spectacular and fascinating because of their color.. Only the ends of their hair are filled with colored pigment, approximately 1/8 of the entire length.

There are also shaded chinchillas with 1/3 of the colored area. Tabby patterns are not allowed. Chinchillas' eye colors are green, emerald, orange or golden.

Color point

This color is more typical for Siamese cats and related breeds.

Colorpoint Scottish Folds have a very light background and markings of a contrasting shade.

Let’s say the tabby pattern is on colored areas, then the color of the cats is called “links point”.

These Scottish Folds have blue eyes of varying intensity, but a rich color gives them a better chance of winning in the show ring.

There are color-point cats with spots, like tortoiseshell cats.

The color of the background and the marks are the same, but due to the lightening of the background, it seems that they are not at all similar.

Childbirth is the natural process of the birth of offspring. Owners of cat mothers must know how cats give birth in order to help their inexperienced pet cope. Knowledge and readiness for difficulties will preserve the health of the animal and the nerve cells of the owner.

Instinctively, cats “know” what to do, especially if this is not their first time giving birth and they have experience. Problems can arise with firstborns who are poorly aware of what is happening to them. A new mother may fail to gnaw the umbilical cord or, out of horror and pain, hide under the sofa and begin to give birth there. Childbirth is stressful for an animal, and the owner must do everything possible to ensure that his pet feels cared for and supported.

What to prepare

The first birth of a cat is exciting not only for the pet, but also for the inexperienced owner. First of all, you need to prepare a cozy place for the mother and future kittens. Typically, “apartments” are made from a box covered with newspapers. A bed or tray will also work. A good place has three characteristics of quality.

1. Availability. The cat should not take a high barrier when climbing inside the “nest”. It is best to cut off the fourth wall, ensuring free passage. This will also give the owner access to the pet.
2. Capacity. It should be borne in mind that the animals will “live” in the box together for another one and a half to two months after birth. Therefore, the “nest” should be spacious, but closed.
3. Silence . There is no point in installing a “maternity place” in the middle of a noisy room. Experienced owners give their pet a personal “room” - a toilet, a bathroom, a corner between the sofa and the wall, a storage room. If a cat nests in a closed closet, ignoring the proposed place, it lacks silence and security.

In addition to the place for childbirth, it is necessary to prepare:

• surgical gloves;
• sharp scissors;
• cotton swabs;
• diapers or clean cotton cloth;
• wet wipes;
• clean terry towels;
• cotton or gauze swabs;
• boiled thread;
• cat drinking bowl;
• formula powder from a pet store;
• rubber bulb or pipette;
• syringe;
• a cup or bowl for disposing of used materials;
• liquid antiseptic for animals;
• oxytocin;
• "Levomekol" or similar ointment;
• Potassium gluconate.

If your cat is due to give birth in a week, then it’s time to stock up on an “emergency bag” with all the necessary tools and medications. It’s better to keep everything in one place in a complete set than to frantically search throughout the apartment during childbirth.

How cats give birth

Inexperienced owners have a vague idea of ​​exactly how childbirth occurs in cats. This is a rather long process, starting with the anxiety of the expectant mother and ending with feeding the babies. Several hours pass between these events. At every stage of labor, it is recommended to be close to the woman in labor, or at least monitor her condition. You should always remember that a cat can die during childbirth.

Pet behavior

About two to three days before contractions, the cat's body temperature drops to 37°C. The mammary glands enlarge and become hotter. Despite the physiological characteristics, the owners first of all notice how the cat behaves before giving birth. Typically, a long-awaited event is heralded by four behavioral features.

1. Washing. About two days before labor begins, the genitals become swollen and pink. The cat begins to actively lick itself. There should be no allocations.
2. Activity. If a cat suddenly gets bored, becomes detached and apathetic, it means that it will be resolved very soon. Do not disturb your pet during this period.
3. Appetite. There is often a decrease in appetite. Your pet may not eat anything the day before giving birth. Provide her with drinks as usual.
4. Arching. A few hours before contractions, “training” occurs. There are no noticeable contractions yet, but the animal is already arching (hunching over), as during contractions. This is caused by short-term contractions of the uterus. The cat becomes active, restless, loud, and scared. It can get into hard-to-reach places, so it is recommended to limit your personal space. From now on, stay close to your pet while waiting for the birth.

A cat that is strongly attached to its owner will follow him around and scream. It's not just about attracting attention. The pet is in pain, uncomfortable, and is looking for protection and support. It is important to be close to your pet, stroke it, and talk affectionately.

Start of the process

The main signs of the onset of labor in a cat are contractions. Uterine contractions begin several hours before birth and gradually increase. If the spasms can be detected with a palm placed on the stomach, it means that the cat will give birth very soon. Take your pet to the maternity area, calm her down and prepare everything necessary.

Five signs that labor has begun:

• stomach drops- becomes pear-shaped;
• urination becomes more frequent- the cat goes to the toilet atypically often;
• mucus is released- the birth plug in cats goes away in about 24-48 hours;
• the water breaks - the owner may not notice, since the cat quickly sucks up;
• breathing quickens- the cat opens its mouth and breathes frequently with shortness of breath.

Within two hours after strong contractions, the first baby should appear. If your cat has been pushing unsuccessfully for three hours or more, or if an unpleasant-smelling brown fluid is coming out of the vulva, your cat should be taken to the veterinarian. Perhaps the kittens are stuck, lying across, and the cat needs surgery.

Childbirth

If the pregnancy, contractions and the health of the mother in labor are in order, then there is no need to directly deliver the cat at home. However, you should stay close to monitor the process. A first-time cat may panic and become inattentive. The process of giving birth to a kitten can be divided into five stages.

1. Passage through the birth canal. The cat pushes, contracting the muscles of the abdomen and thighs. Usually, four to five pushes are enough for the baby to appear.
2. Exit outside. The kitten is born in the amniotic sac or its remains. The bubble may burst when pushing, then a yellowish liquid is released from the vulva. A few hours before birth (you can see the belly moving), kittens usually “line up” in the uterine horns with their faces towards the birth canal. But not all fruits have time to do this. Therefore, kittens can be born with their heads and hind legs first.
3. Breathing stimulation. The mother bursts the bubble, licks the kitten, freeing the airways from mucus. A squeaking baby is a good sign, it means he is breathing.
4. Umbilical cord rupture. The mother gnaws the umbilical cord and eats the afterbirth. Make sure that all the placenta comes out according to the number of kittens. To be sure of your calculations, write it down on a piece of paper. Placenta remaining in the womb can lead to infectious diseases. If there are a lot of kittens, let the cat eat two or three afterbirths, no more. The placenta contains hormones, which is good for pushing and lactation, but can provoke vomiting or cause diarrhea.
5. Lactation. Immediately after birth, the kitten attaches itself to its mother's nipple. The cat must accept its baby and start licking it. With multiple births, labor continues.

It happens that a cat, in pain and busy with itself, crushes the newborn kitten or leaves a baby in the amniotic sac. Actions that the mother did not do must be done by the owner for her.

How long labor lasts depends on the number of kittens and the intensity of pushing. Usually all babies are born within six hours. In order not to “forget” anyone, it is recommended to give your cat an ultrasound during pregnancy. The owner will know exactly how many babies are left and will worry in time if labor suddenly stops.

Final stage

The cat's labor ends with the absence of contractions for two hours. The cat calms down, the pushing stops, the stomach drops and becomes soft. Babies begin to actively suck milk. The behavior and physical condition of the mother after childbirth is characterized by the following signs:

• cares for the babies, licks them, feeds them;
• breathes evenly;
• wants to eat and drink;
• wants to go to the toilet;
• changes position in the birthplace.

You should not immediately start feeding your cat after giving birth. Offer your pet water or milk. If the placenta has been eaten, the mother can remain in the “nest” for up to six hours and not eat anything. Place a bowl near the birthing area and feed the mother four to five times a day with regular food. Add milk, cereals, and fish oil to your diet. Place a tray nearby so that the mother is not away from the cubs for a long time.

It is not recommended to touch babies often, otherwise the mother will lose contact with them. After giving birth, move the mother and kittens to soft bedding and clean up the birthing area. Wipe the box with a cloth and change the diaper. Carefully return the family to their place and leave them alone.

Owner intervention

Even an inexperienced owner can understand that a cat is giving birth by carefully observing the pet. However, determining the onset of labor is not enough. You need to be aware of all the possible risks so that you can help your cat during labor if something goes wrong.

Relying only on instincts is a mistake. Nature always takes the side of strong and healthy individuals, the rest die. Not all domestic cats have excellent immunity and good health. The owner is unlikely to agree to part with the pet just for the sake of natural selection. Therefore, it is within the power of the owner to make childbirth as easy as possible, to preserve the health and life of the pet and the offspring. The table describes human actions in critical situations.

Table - How to help during childbirth

Help	In what cases is it necessary	Solution
Induce labor	- Weak contractions; - the fetus is stuck in the birth canal	- Lubricate the pipette with Levomekol; - insert into the vulva in a circular motion; - examine the birth canal for the presence of a baby; - inject 1 ml of “Gamavit” or “Travmatina” into the withers; - stroke the belly towards the vulva
Pull out the kitten	- Termination of labor as the kitten moves through the birth canal; - weak attempts	- Lubricate the birth canal with Vaseline to speed up the birth of a half-born baby; - inject "Gamavit" into the thigh
Open the bubble	The cat refuses to do this, does not show interest	- Cut with sterile scissors; - remove the kitten; - use a pipette or rubber enema to collect mucus from the mouth and nose; - wipe the body with a terry towel; - place under mother's belly
Cut the umbilical cord	- The woman in labor is indifferent to the newborn; - a cat (often a Persian) physically cannot chew through; - the mother is busy with the already born cubs	- Bandage at a distance of 4 cm from the abdomen with sterile thread; - cut slightly above the thread with sterile scissors; - treat the cut site with an antiseptic; - do not pull (causes a hernia)
Resuscitate a newborn	The kitten does not squeak, does not show signs of life	- Rub on the back and chest with a towel for 3-4 minutes; - tilt the muzzle, holding the hind legs; - shake like a thermometer; - clear the airways
Inject calcium gluconate	- Rapid, continuous breathing; - convulsions; - suspicion of eclampsia; - lack of milk; - lack of pushing	- Draw 1 ml into the syringe; - hold it in your hand so that the liquid warms up to body temperature; - administer intramuscularly; - prick for signs of eclampsia in the morning and evening for 3 days after birth
Inject oxytocin	- Reduced uterine contractions; - lack of milk; - preservation of placenta or dead embryos in the uterus; - C-section	- Consult a doctor; - inject 0.2-0.3 ml into the withers between contractions (the birth canal is open); - administered within 3 hours after birth without complications
C-section	- Childbirth with paws forward for 20-30 minutes; - old or young age of the woman in labor; - long unsuccessful attempts	Call the vet

Take your time to induce labor. Perhaps the cat can handle it on its own. The time interval between the birth of kittens ranges from five to 60 minutes.

Alarming symptoms

An unqualified owner cannot always help a furry pet. That is why during childbirth you should have the telephone number of the treating veterinarian, or preferably two or three numbers, at hand. Four symptoms are a serious reason to contact a specialist.

1. Ahead of schedule. Most often, premature birth occurs in a cat due to a frozen pregnancy, non-viability of the offspring, placental abruption, or trauma. The stages of labor pass faster already on the 50-55th day, sometimes earlier. Most often, a cat gives birth to dead kittens. The living premature offspring dies in the coming days. It happens that a cat gives birth to just one dead baby prematurely. The rest emerge alive and healthy on time. If your cat gives birth prematurely, have her examined by a specialist to understand further steps.
2. Absence of childbirth. If the pet does not give birth for more than 70 days and if this is not a false “birth” due to an imaginary pregnancy in the cat, then the pregnancy is probably frozen. The cubs most likely died, so it is urgent to save the pet from possible infections and damage to the uterus.
3. Frozen birth. It is important to determine when labor is truly over. If the pushing has stopped and the cat is resting, this does not guarantee that all the kittens will come out. You should observe your mother's behavior. A cat that has not yet given birth reluctantly takes care of the cubs, does not leave the “nest” and does not change position, refuses to drink, and periodically strains. To make sure, you can feel the stomach three to four hours after birth. The elasticity and tension of the muscles indicate that there is still a kitten left in the womb.
4. Discharge. Any colored, pungent-smelling discharge during pregnancy and childbirth is a deviation from the norm. During strong, long contractions (more than an hour) without subsequent labor, blood may flow profusely. In this case, it is also necessary to show the cat to a specialist.

Fetal pathologies do not always depend on the health of the mother and can be inherited from the father. However, the physical and mental condition of the cat affects the successful outcome of the birth. Therefore, it is important that the pet is healthy before mating. Unfavorable factors for childbirth are old age, obesity, stress, and heredity.

Even the process of childbirth in a cat, supported by instincts, does not always go smoothly. You should mentally prepare for any outcome. However, do not panic prematurely and do not intervene without reason. Nervousness will be transferred to the pet, and during childbirth she will be confused. Rest assured that everything will go well and the cat will be able to rely on its owner.

Breeding Scottish Fold cats. Features of knitting. Pregnancy in the Scottish Fold and childbirth.

When deciding to breed Scottish Fold cats, you should understand that this is a rather complex process that requires special knowledge and a responsible approach. In addition, it is important to prepare for the fact that this hobby will require significant time and money.

Please note that giving birth to a Scottish Fold can be quite difficult. That is why it is so important to immediately and finally decide whether you are ready for the various difficulties that await you on this difficult path.

This event consists of several stages:

• selection of a breeding cat and payment for its services;
• conducting a medical examination;
• pairing;
• pregnancy;
• childbirth;
• kitten care.

Features of mating Scottish Fold cats

In order for lop-eared mating to be successful, you need to know and follow several important rules.

When is the best time to breed?

Scottish Folds reach puberty at 9 to 10 months. But despite this, it is best to carry out the first mating no earlier than 18 months. It is at this age that the cat will be able to psychologically and physically prepare for motherhood.

Remember that you should not carry out early mating, because in most cases it will lead to the development of pathological changes in the fetus and sometimes can even lead to its death. At the same time, the first estrus in a Scottish Fold cat occurs after it reaches one year of age. But do not allow mating during this period, as it is much better to wait for the second or third heat.

Basic mating rules that every breeder should remember

You need to devote a lot of time to choosing a cat, because the appearance and compliance of the offspring with current breed standards will largely depend on this.

Many novice breeders do not know whether it is possible to breed a fold-eared cat with a fold-eared cat. Remember, this is absolutely forbidden. The ideal option for mating is a representative of the Scottish Straight breed.

If you breed your pet with a fold-eared cat, the result of this experiment may be offspring that will not be viable or will have many defects that may negatively affect their development. This is due to the unique gene of this breed, which leads to the development of bone abnormalities. Therefore, to minimize the possibility of such negative consequences, you need to take your pet off Scottish Straight. The main thing is to choose a cat whose color will be as similar as possible to your pet, so that the offspring will receive a uniform color and eye color. Please note that it is much easier to sell solid-colored kittens than tortoiseshell-colored offspring.

It is also very important to make sure that the cat was chosen correctly and does not have any birth defects. Any of them can be passed on to kittens.

How is mating carried out?

The first mating of fold-eared cats should be carried out with a cat that already has some experience. Otherwise, you risk wasting your time and money. That is why you need to approach its selection very carefully. After you make your choice, the cat will need to be brought to his territory on the second day of estrus. Mating will take 2 - 3 days.

But it is quite possible that your pet will not be able to get pregnant right away. Don’t worry, because you can re-breed already in the next heat. Interestingly, pregnancy can be determined by its behavior - the Scottish Fold will become much calmer and kinder.

But there are certain risks here:

• aggressive behavior after mating;
• failure to become pregnant;
• the birth of weak and even deaf kittens.

Scottish fold cat pregnancy

After a successful mating has been carried out, you need to begin preparing for childbirth. In most cases, pregnancy in the Scottish Fold lasts about 65 days, which is the norm for this breed. At the same time, the birth of kittens 1 - 2 days earlier is also considered quite normal. But childbirth that began on day 60 will already be a guarantee that the offspring will not be able to survive. There are also cases of post-maturity, but they require the help of a specialist.

Signs of cat pregnancy

At the moment, there is no special equipment with which you can immediately determine the onset of fertilization. But still, pregnancy with a fold ear can be determined by several signs:

• weight gain in the first 30 days after mating;
• vomiting in the morning (although this symptom appears quite rarely);
• swelling and pinking of the nipples;
• behavior becomes calmer and more balanced.

Examinations during pregnancy

Modern veterinary medicine offers a very large number of different methods for monitoring the development of fetuses. Of course, a pregnant Scottish Fold cat should undergo regular examinations by a veterinarian so that you can be sure that it is progressing normally. The frequency of such inspections is once every 3 weeks. This will help prevent the influence of negative factors on childbirth and offspring. It is also advisable to show her to the doctor a week before the expected date of birth, so that an examination can be carried out and you receive the necessary information about the birth itself and the care of newborn kittens.

How does childbirth occur in Scottish Fold cats?

It is very important that everything happens in the most calm and familiar environment possible. That is why your pet’s home, preferably without strangers, is ideal for this.

Most often, a Scottish Fold cat gives birth in a box or closet. It is best to prepare such a box in advance and cover it with warm fabric or clothes that you no longer wear. This will create the most comfortable conditions, as well as provide her with a warm and cozy place for the birth of her offspring.

It is important that you can get in and out of the box freely without jumping to great heights, as this can be very dangerous for the kittens. The box should always be clean, warm and dry so that the babies can develop normally.
The week before giving birth will also affect your pet’s behavior - she will lick herself much more often. At the same time, it is very important that by the expected date the place for the woman in labor is already ready. It is advisable to measure rectal temperature every day in the last week before the event. If you notice a decrease in temperature to 37.6, you can be sure that labor will begin in the next 12 hours.

The pregnancy itself in the Scottish Fold is quite simple, but it is best for novice breeders to entrust childbirth to a professional specialist. Of course, in the future you will be able to control this process yourself. But for the first time you will gain a huge experience that will help you in the future.

Risks during childbirth

There is always a certain risk of developing pathologies and complications.

The main reasons for this:

• artificially delaying childbirth by a cat if something frightened her;
• the size of the fetus is too large;
• insufficiency of uterine contractions;
• narrow pelvis or its fractures.

Remember that if you notice any of these problems, you should immediately contact your veterinarian. Otherwise, you risk not only losing all your offspring, but also your pet. Also, there are other signs, if they occur, you should definitely invite a specialist:

• labor lasts more than an hour, although the contractions are quite strong;
• bleeding during or after the birth of offspring;
• the temperature rose above 40 degrees;
• strange behavior after the birth of kittens.

You must remember that breeding cats always involves a significant investment of time and money. That is why it is important to understand whether it is worth starting to do this. And if you have already finally decided that you will breed a Scottish Fold, then today start reading relevant literature and looking for a reliable, qualified veterinarian who will not be afraid to entrust your pet. Good luck to you!

Video on the topic

10. Reproduction

Anyone who decides to seriously engage in breeding Scottish Fold cats should imagine that this is not only an interesting activity that gives a lot of joy and pleasure, but also a great responsibility. In addition, this hobby will require a lot of effort, time and money from the breeder.

It is necessary to clearly formulate for yourself the goal for which it is worth starting such a complex undertaking. The breeder must be prepared for the fact that many difficulties may arise along the way. He may face the death of the cat during childbirth or in the postpartum period. He may be faced with the task of artificial feeding and caring for kittens. He may become confused if labor weakens or if the cat gives birth abnormally.

It is also necessary to consider whether the breeder will be able to devote sufficient time to caring for a cat who has had a caesarean section, as well as taking care of the newborns until the mother is able to care for them again.

Everything should be taken into account, for example, whether the cat’s owner is ready to make a decision on euthanasia if kittens are born with developmental defects, such as a cleft lip or cleft palate. The breeder must be able to cope with any difficulties, be it the treatment of animals or large material costs.

Cost

When purchasing a Scottish Fold cat, the breeder hopes that he will be able to recoup his costs by selling kittens. But this may not always happen, so first of all it is necessary to anticipate and take into account all the costs of keeping and caring for the animal. These may include the cost of immunization against diseases, covering the cat, paying for veterinarian services, purchasing supplies (dishes and other accessories), and the cost of raising kittens to the age when they can be sold. It is also necessary to take into account the demand for Scottish Fold cats for the current period and the availability of potential customers.

As a result of these calculations, the conclusion follows that breeding, most likely, will not bring profit, and may turn out to be an unprofitable enterprise.

Sale of kittens

At first, the breeder may encounter difficulties in selling kittens. At first, not having regular customers who like kittens from his breeding lines, he will have to advertise to attract clients. Perhaps his kittens, as they say, will go in great demand, but another situation may arise.

You need to be prepared for the fact that the kitten will be unexpectedly abandoned; the client who agreed with the breeder will not appear. It also happens that a kitten that has already been adopted is brought back due to unforeseen circumstances that interfere with the maintenance of the kitten, for example, an allergic reaction to fur, moving to another place of residence, etc. It may happen that not a single kitten will be purchased.

If all possible obstacles do not frighten the breeder, the first step is to take, namely, to study the contract that must be concluded when purchasing a Scottish Fold cat. In the GCCF registration book, in the column opposite the animal’s name there will be a “non-active” entry if the kitten is not purchased for the purpose of breeding. In this situation, it should be determined whether the owner of the breeding kittens would be willing to request the GCCF to change this record.

If he agrees, the appropriate application should be submitted in accordance with the established procedure together with the breeder.

Otherwise, GHCCF will not register the kittens and the mating will be considered invalid.

Determining the condition of a breeding cat

A breeder who decides to breed his cat must check the registration documents and make sure that the animal is suitable for breeding. It will also be useful to compare the cat with breeding animals presented at exhibitions. In this case, the breeder will be able to make sure that she has no hereditary defects that would become an obstacle to breeding.

The next necessary step is to check the cat's health certificate. It is necessary to check her health status and also find out whether vaccination dates have been missed.

When preparing for mating, one should not forget about such a common and constant procedure for caring for a cat as trimming its claws.

Sometimes vaccination is carried out approximately 2-3 weeks before mating, which, according to some veterinarians, gives newborns intense colostral immunity.

The owner of the cat must be present during mating in order to calm the animal and in case of a sharp aggressive reaction of the pet to the coating process, to prevent the cat and its owner from being harmed by its claws and teeth.

Puberty of a cat

It is recommended to know the exact date and time of birth of the cat. Puberty in Scottish Fold cats can occur as early as 4–5 months of development, which, however, does not coincide with full physical development, which begins at 9 months of age, and sometimes later. The ability to reproduce in a Scottish Fold cat, if it has multiple births, begins at 10 months of age and continues until 7–8 years of age. After the birth of kittens, the cat must restore the health, strength and energy she spent on bearing, giving birth, and then feeding the kittens.

That is why owners never allow a cat to be covered during the first heat, which occurs after birth, when the kittens have just been weaned from their mother.

A sufficient period of time between matings, according to many owners involved in breeding Scottish Fold cats, is a period of 1–1.5 years.

It is difficult for a breeder to do without a diary (especially in the 1st year of a cat’s life), in which data is entered on the intervals between subsequent heats and their duration. Recorded observations of the estrous cycle make it possible to calculate the time of the upcoming estrus and determine the days of coverage.

The reproductive cycle and the cat's readiness to reproduce

In domestic cats, there is no dependence of the timing of the birth of offspring on the length of daylight hours and the season, in contrast to homeless or feral animals, in which a clear dependence of the period of readiness for reproduction (estrous cycle) on the duration of daylight hours, seasonal and weather conditions has been revealed. At home, the breeder can plan the next birth of a cat at any time.

The first stage of the cat’s body’s preparation for reproduction is characterized by the activation of specific processes and is expressed in the fact that its behavior changes within 2–4 days. The cat becomes unusually affectionate, but at the same time restless; in excitement, it runs after its owner and purrs invitingly. Some cats begin to mark surrounding objects with urine, which does not prevent them from remaining very clean.

Breeders call a cat's readiness to reproduce as rutting, estrus, or hunting. It develops through several successive stages.

Some cats may have an urge to run outside, causing them to stay near windows or doors and become restless. Despite the fact that some Scottish Fold cats have light, clear vaginal discharge during this period, this does not mean that the cat is completely ready for mating.

The next stage that a cat of any breed goes through, including the Scottish Fold, is expressed in almost continuous heartbreaking screams, sometimes similar to a howl, sometimes like a wild bark, with which it calls cats. In addition, she begins to roll on the floor, waving her tail, stops eating, and marks surrounding objects with urine, the smell of which is designed to attract males. When stroking, the cat takes a specific pose, raising the back of its body, falling on its front paws, moving its tail to the side, and you can notice an enlargement of the vulva. All these actions are aimed at attracting partners and should not frighten the cat owner. In cats, ovulation occurs differently from other mammals and is directly related to the mating process.

Selection of a breeding cat

Choosing the right breeding cat, especially for a Scottish Fold cat, is not an easy task. You can try contacting the breeder from whom the cat was purchased.

Local periodicals, show catalogs, club publications, and GCCF stud books can help you find a sire.

They present a selection of breeding animals offered for mating.

Manufacturers differ in the level of requirements for mating conditions.

1. Males that mate with almost any female offered, unless she belongs to a breeding line related to the cat. These are the so-called free cats.

2. Cats mating with a limited number of animals by special agreement are limited breeding cats.

3. Males that are allowed to breed with cats only within their breeding line or are mated exclusively with cats from their cattery. These cats are not available.

All breeders strictly ensure that their breeding cats are in excellent physical shape. They limit the number of matings so as not to subject the animal to unnecessary overload. Of course, they will not allow mating with a cat if they have doubts about its health.

In the life of a breeding cat, the first mating is a very important moment, therefore, if the cat has never mated before, for the first mating you must definitely choose an experienced and reliable sire, despite the fact that it will cost much more than a cat that does not have sufficient experience as a sire.

In order not to expose your pet to the risk of contracting any disease during coverage, the cat owner can ask the cat owner to carefully check the cat’s health status, and possibly provide some certificates. Most likely, the breeder will be interested in the origin of the cat, its temperament, its character, and how it usually behaves in stressful situations.

If the cat is aggressive, then if the cat tries to cover her, he may be in danger, just like the breeder. Cat bites and scratches are known to trigger a severe allergic reaction to cat saliva in some cases. It is quite natural that the cat owner will not agree to such a dangerous experiment.

Sexually mature breeding cats intended for breeding are best kept in garden houses, pens or shelters separately from cats. Almost all cats mark surrounding objects with urine; in addition, they jealously guard the territory they consider theirs from strangers. If the cat is kept in a cat house, then it should have a window that allows him to observe the territory and birds, in addition, it provides ventilation in the house.

On the other hand, the breeder must be just as careful when examining a breeding cat. This inspection must be achieved by asking the consent of the manufacturer's owner. The health of a cat is indicated by its eyes and fur. An excellent producer, muscular, energetic and flexible.

For mating, cats are delivered to cats, and not vice versa. Covering can occur both in a cage, pen, enclosure, and in other suitable places. There are no rules about this. At the same time, it is important to ensure the cat’s safety during the period of ritual courtship immediately until the cat is ready for covering.

To protect their pets from infection, most modern breeders avoid transporting cats to other catteries and keep their own breeding sires for breeding.

This approach is quite justified when there are a large number of animals. With rare exceptions, cats are used in breeding work only for part of their life, usually for 4–5 years. After this time, they are all castrated and then kept as ordinary pets.

Payment for the services of a breeding cat

A manufacturer's set of characteristics determines how highly its services should be paid. Factors such as the origin of the cat, its color, typicality, emotionality and character, participation and victories in exhibitions, breeding properties and the place where it lives are taken into account here. It happens that a breeder wants to receive an alimony kitten as payment for the services of a breeding cat, and a contract is drawn up verbally or in writing if such an offer suits both parties. There are known cases of concluding similar contracts, the result of which was a long friendship, which was strengthened even more if this kitten became a champion and was highly valued by specialists at serious exhibitions.

If a written contract is drawn up, it must clearly state the length of time the cat will spend with the breeder sufficient to ensure fertilization. It is also determined how much the cat owner must pay the breeder for the services of a breeding cat. The contract includes clauses that cover various situations that may arise. For example, this includes cases of the birth of stillborn kittens or the so-called missing cat. If the examination does not reveal gynecological disorders or diseases in the cat, re-coating is carried out, and this is done free of charge.

Payment of the entire amount in full (no advances are made) is made immediately on the day the cat is covered. The cat owner must receive copies of registration documents, as well as the pedigree of the manufacturer. If a written contract has been drawn up, a copy of it is required. It must be signed by both parties.

Experienced owners of breeding cats value the reputation of their producers and are very interested in ensuring that the kittens from their breeding animals have very high characteristics and do not have any shortcomings or defects. They always meet halfway and provide assistance to breeders who are starting out in the breeding business. Often, as a result of this cooperation, inexperienced breeders achieve the appearance of healthy, strong kittens with a harmonious character.

Medical examination of cats

As mentioned above, almost all cat owners to whom they bring cats for mating insist on a full examination of the cats. The feline leukemia virus poses a serious threat of infection, so it is so important to ensure her health by conducting an examination to identify this deadly virus. It is necessary that the test be done shortly before the cat is covered. The leukemia vaccine is given 21 days (or earlier) before mating.

Vaccinations can be done at any time. However, if there is a need to do it immediately before mating, it is better to postpone contact for at least a day.

Sometimes different vaccinations are combined, given on the same day (in different syringes). For example, vaccination against acute respiratory infections and FP can be done on the same day that the cat was vaccinated against FVR. The cat should be examined for the immunodeficiency virus (it is not dangerous to humans). The issue of testing for infectious peritonitis is controversial, but modern veterinary medicine believes that this disease is not contagious.

Sales deadlines for kittens

The best time to sell kittens is from early September to early December or from late January to March. This issue should be carefully considered, because incorrectly chosen deadlines for sale can lead to the fact that kittens not sold on time will force the owner to abandon a planned vacation trip, or he will be forced to devote too much time to them at the most inopportune period, for example during the Christmas holidays. Breeders always take a responsible approach to resolving issues related to the future fate of their pets. They are not indifferent to which hands the kittens fall into. For example, if they want to buy a kitten in order to surprise someone for Christmas, then the animal will receive serious stress, since they are not prepared for its appearance in a new place. The bustle and noise characteristic of a festive atmosphere are not suitable for such an important moment in the life of an animal as moving to a new home and meeting the owners.

Pairing

On the 2nd day after the first signs of the cat’s readiness to mate appear, you should contact the owner of the manufacturer and agree on the possibility of delivering the cat to him. The animal should be transported in a special basket for transporting cats. The basket is immediately placed in the exact place specifically designated by the breeder. The cat should calmly get acquainted with new smells and the smell of the future partner, and then with him. From this moment, the courtship period begins, the duration of which depends not only on the temperament of the animals, but also on whether the cat is participating in mating for the first time or whether she already has similar experience.

If your cat is nervous, you need to calm it down by talking to it gently and stroking it. In the event of aggression or even a fight with a partner, experienced breeders recommend throwing a blanket over the cat or resorting to a tool such as a brush. You need to act very carefully, since the damage and injuries that an angry animal can cause are quite significant.

Acquaintance, courtship and finally mating usually take 4–5 days. How easy the coating process will be depends on the individual characteristics of the animals. Generally, a breeder will only allow a male cat in so that he can be present and observe the development of their relationship to ensure that mating has occurred. For example, during the day a couple is united, and at night the cat is transferred to another room. If the owner is busy during the daytime, the animals are brought in in the evening.

An inexperienced cat may become anxious before mating.

As a support for the pair, a washable mat is placed on the floor, which will help stabilize the cat's hind legs while covering and prevent slipping.

Before mating begins, the cat carefully walks around the cat in a circle. He sniffs her and meows. The cat, in turn, calls the cat with purring sounds and takes a special position, falling on its front paws. The cat marks time or gradually turns towards the cat, exposing its croup and moving its tail to the side.

The partner approaches the cat, first from the left, then from the right, sniffing it. Finally, he grabs the cat by the scruff of the neck with his teeth, so that his front paws seem to hug her from above, and crushes him under him. The cat makes a counter movement, raising the croup and giving the partner the opportunity to act. The coating process takes a very short period of time, a matter of seconds, after which the cat jumps off the cat and tries to get away. At the moment of separation, the cat screams desperately, and then, purring, falls on its back and rolls on the floor.

The peculiarity of the cat’s behavior at this moment is such that it becomes dangerous for the cat and is ready to violently attack him. Knowing this, many breeders prudently install some kind of bookcase, hanging shelf, or just a high stool in the room, where the cat will be safe and can wait until the cat calms down. After a few minutes, both partners will begin their toilet, carefully licking the genitals.

The process of fertilization of an egg lasts up to a maximum of 2 days (more often it is completed within a day). During this period, there is the possibility of an unplanned and unwanted mating with an outside cat. Therefore, the cat must be kept in isolation all this time.

After some time, the cat will again take a pose and begin to call the cat to mate again. Only one mating is necessary for conception, but breeders may allow several additional matings for monitoring.

After successful coverage, it is necessary to examine the animals, especially the cat’s neck, and find out if there are any wounds there that could have been caused to her by an insufficiently experienced and too temperamental partner. If small wounds and teeth marks are found, they need to be treated with an antiseptic; if the wounds are more serious, you should consult a veterinarian.

Pregnancy

The duration of pregnancy is counted from the day the cat was covered until the day of birth. A normal pregnancy lasts on average 65 days. If kittens are born on the 63rd or 64th day, then these dates do not contradict the norm, however, kittens born before the 60th day will not be viable. Sometimes childbirth occurs after 68 days, then it is customary to talk about post-term pregnancy. In this case, it is better to contact a veterinarian.

Modern veterinary medicine has not yet created methods for rapid detection of pregnancy in cats. But there are quite obvious signs by which it is quite possible to determine whether a cat is pregnant, as well as the exact timing of pregnancy.

In the first 30 days there is a slight increase in weight.

In some cases, vomiting occurs in the morning.

After 35 days, the cat’s belly increases slightly, the nipples become pink and become more prominent. In the later stages of pregnancy, an enlargement of the mammary glands is observed; with light pressure, a liquid similar to milk is released from the nipples.

It must be borne in mind that the mammary glands of many cats swell even after estrus, so this sign is considered in conjunction with other signs of pregnancy. The veterinarian, using palpation (palpation), identifies a bicornuate uterus, resembling the letter “Y”, in the horns of which the fruits are located. They are determined no earlier than on the 20th day after conception. The fruits are still very small, their size does not exceed the size of a peanut kernel. After the 35th day of pregnancy, the uterus fills with fluid.

During this period, palpation is ineffective. By the 49th day, the fruits are quite well formed. Their oblong body with a large head can already be identified quite well.

Rough, inept palpation can cause great harm to the health of the animal, damaging the amniotic sac, which will lead to miscarriage. In addition, in the absence of experience, the fetus can easily be confused with other intra-abdominal organs.

The life of a pregnant cat and caring for it are almost no different from its normal life. There is no need to limit the animal’s mobility; a small normal load has a beneficial effect on muscle tone and helps avoid obesity.

There are different methods for monitoring the stages of fetal development. For example, radiography allows you to monitor the development of the fetus starting from the 15th day of gestation. But it is still not recommended to carry it out in the first half of pregnancy. It is most advisable to take an x-ray if necessary to differentiate a true pregnancy from a false one. A safer method is ultrasound echography.

Starting from the 20th day, the fetal heartbeat can be heard. This is a very good sign, showing the high viability of the offspring.

In the later periods of pregnancy, symptoms such as the appearance of a pear-shaped abdomen and noticeable movement of the fetus, which intensifies 2 weeks before birth, are typical.

Morning vomiting, which occurs in some cats during the 3-4th week of gestation, occurs due to stretching of the growing uterus and hormonal changes. Symptoms such as slight malaise, vomiting, refusal to eat, and a somewhat depressed appearance, as a rule, disappear after a few days - should not be a cause for concern.

Examinations during pregnancy

To ensure that any deviations or disturbances do not have a negative impact on mating and birth, the veterinarian must check the cat's health. It is recommended to carry out it 2-3 weeks after coating.

Antihelminthic drugs, many medications, insecticides, flea products, antibiotics and some hormonal drugs should not be used to treat cats during pregnancy. Some medications are particularly toxic, such as those used for tapeworms. Droncite can be used without harm during this period. Live virus vaccines used for viral respiratory diseases and panleukopenia are completely contraindicated in pregnant animals. Therefore, if you have any problems with your cat’s health and before choosing a medication during pregnancy, you should contact your veterinarian.

A cat in late pregnancy should not be allowed to jump from heights or play with animals and children to avoid the risk of injury. The center of gravity shifts, and maintaining balance becomes much more difficult. Experienced breeders recommend prohibiting your cat from climbing on high furniture even before pregnancy, so that such a habit does not arise at all.

It is recommended to show the animal to a doctor 7–8 days before birth. The examination will make sure that the pregnancy is progressing normally. In addition, the owner will receive the necessary information about how childbirth should proceed and what care will be required for newborns.

Preparing for childbirth

For the birth to be successful, the cat must give birth in a quiet, calm and familiar environment. It is best if the birth takes place at home, in the absence of strangers and animals, otherwise it may be delayed and suspended.

A place in which cats are willing to give birth and which satisfies all the requirements is a box, if it is in a dark, quiet, dry and warm room. This box can be easily made from a cardboard box. Its dimensions should not interfere with the free movement of the animal and average 50 cm in width and height with 60 cm in length. In order to make it convenient to inspect and care for kittens in the future, you need to provide a removable wall. The cat should not jump into the box; this is unsafe for the kittens, so a hole is provided in one of the side walls at the level of the animal’s chest.

This way she can move in and out of the box freely.

A reusable box is very convenient. On the walls there are shelves 5 cm wide at a 5 cm height above the floor. This simple device protects kittens from possible injury if the cat accidentally lies down and there is a danger of crushing the babies. Thanks to the shelves, kittens acquire a kind of shelter into which they instinctively crawl. The bottom of the box is lined with several layers of clean newspapers. They absorb moisture and odors, and also allow the cat to satisfy the digging instinct that manifests itself in the process of making a nest. Wide bedding that easily wrinkles should not be used, as small kittens may become wrapped up, entangled, and suffocate in it. For the same reason, hay bedding is not suitable. In addition, straw dust entering the respiratory tract can cause aspiration.

A damp and cold nest is the most dangerous conditions under which kittens often die. On the contrary, animals feel great if the box is clean, dry, and the air is fresh and warm.

In order to monitor the temperature in the nest, a thermometer is placed at the bottom of the box. A constant temperature maintained during the first week of kittens' life should be 29 °C. Every week it needs to be reduced by 3 °C, thus bringing it to 21 °C. If it is not possible to maintain a certain temperature using an air conditioner or thermostat, then powerful infrared lamps (250 W) are used for heating. If they are not mounted in the reflector, then they are suspended at a small height above the box. You should provide the cat with the opportunity to move to a place in the nest where it will be somewhat cooler and where the heat of the heating devices does not reach.

During the upcoming birth, some aids may be needed. This is an additional medium-sized box with a heating pad or heating pad at the bottom. If necessary, newborn kittens are placed there for a period until all the babies are born.

Additionally, you need to prepare items that may be needed during childbirth. These are sterile gloves, a syringe with a spray can or an eye dropper, with the help of which mucus is sucked out of the mouth of newly born kittens. In addition, you need to have an arterial clamp (they use it to clamp the umbilical cord in emergency cases), dental floss, silk or cotton threads that are used to tie the umbilical cord, and an antiseptic for cauterizing it. You will also probably need clean towels, plenty of fresh newspapers and scissors.

Childbirth

The cleanliness of the animal during this period increases significantly. It is typical for the prenatal week that the cat begins to lick itself especially carefully and often, paying special attention to the abdominal area and genitals. Irritability and anxiety may appear in her behavior, expressed in a tense search for a cozy place to nest. The cat can climb into closets, laundry drawers, closets, shoe drawers, and even the bed. Outside the house, in the garden, in the yard, an excited animal digs a nest, looking for a secluded, secluded place.

During the period before giving birth, a pregnant cat must be kept at home, otherwise the owners risk finding the litter in inappropriate conditions: under the porch, in a closet, in a basement or in a haystack.

This is the most convenient moment to show the cat the prepared birth box. In order to get comfortable in a new place, the animal needs some time. As a rule, a cat happily settles into a box where she has already given birth.

It happens that the birth took place in another, not very favorable, from the point of view of the owners, place.

In this case, without wasting time, immediately after all the kittens are born, they need to be transferred to the prepared box.

Before giving birth, from the 61st day of gestation, it is advisable to measure the cat’s rectal temperature daily. Its drop from 38.6 to 37.5 °C and below indicates that labor will occur within 12–24 hours. However, in some cases the temperature does not decrease.

The entire process of childbirth is usually divided into 3 stages. At the 1st stage, the opening of the cervix and the birth canal begins. At the 2nd stage, the kitten appears. The 3rd stage includes the birth of the placenta. Normal childbirth does not require human intervention; it occurs naturally and easily.

The first stage is quite long, it can last up to 12 hours or longer. The cat's breathing quickens, she purrs in time with the voluntary contractions of the uterus. The cat's behavior is restless, it suddenly turns around, as if trying to bite the base of its tail, begins to dig the floor, strains, and may meow pitifully. At this time, the fruits, as a result of alternate contractions of the horns, are pushed into the uterus. With strong contractions of the uterus, the fetus continues to move towards the cervix, which expands more and more, allowing it to pass through. As a result of contraction of the abdominal muscles, the fetus continues its movement and enters the vagina.

A cat giving birth for the first time may experience fear, discomfort, and call its owner with plaintive cries. Of course, you should calm the cat by stroking it, using your voice, if necessary, picking it up, then returning it to the nest. You need to talk to her kindly, and everything will go as usual. It often happens that cats do not need the presence of the owner and even drive him away with hissing, striving for privacy.

At the 2nd stage of labor, the appearance of the amnion (the water sac in which the fetus is located) is observed between the lips of the vulva. Its rupture is accompanied by the outflow of amniotic fluid, which has a yellowish color. This fluid helps the fetus pass by lubricating the passage, after which the kitten is born within a few minutes.

You cannot rudely interfere with the process of creating a bond between mother and baby. You need to trust the cat's instinct. If there are many kittens, during a quick birth it happens that the mother’s attention is focused on one baby, and at this time another kitten, born in the shell, needs urgent help. In this case, you need to remove the shell within a few seconds so that the kitten does not suffocate.

Sometimes the water sac can rupture in the birth canal, during strong pushing. This poses a danger to the life of the kitten if its birth occurs more than 30 minutes. The normal position of a kitten at birth is the "diver" position, where it emerges with its nose and front paws first. This is normal and typical for 70% of kittens born.

Once the head comes out, the rest of the fruit slips out very quickly. A newly born baby should stretch and take a breath. If a kitten is born in the amniotic sac, instinct pushes the cat to break it, grind the umbilical cord with its teeth and intensively lick the kitten, especially the baby's face, clearing the nose for breathing.

His first sharp breath expands his tiny lungs, after which the kitten can breathe on his own. If the umbilical cord is preserved, then the connection between the newborn and the mother will last until the birth of the placenta.

The cat can grind the umbilical cord with its teeth in such a way that the blood vessels are stretched and partially twisted. Thanks to this, bleeding does not occur. It is only important to ensure that the cat does not gnaw the umbilical cord too close (no closer than 2.5 cm) to the kitten’s stomach, otherwise it may develop an umbilical hernia or bleeding.

If the umbilical cord is cut too straight or crossed close to the navel, urgent measures must be taken to stop the bleeding. Help consists of tightly tying the umbilical cord with threads, after which you need to cauterize it with any antiseptic, such as iodine.

At the 3rd stage of labor, after the birth of each kitten, after a short period of time, the baby's place (placenta) is first separated, then it is born. Often instinct tells a cat to eat the placenta, which may be due to the need, even during the cat’s existence as a wild animal, not to leave traces that could attract predators dangerous to the offspring. This action is not strictly necessary at home, and the owner himself must decide whether or not to allow the eating of all or part of the afterbirth. However, it should be borne in mind that eating all the afterbirth can cause digestive problems in cats.

Typically, the birth of each next kitten occurs within 15–30 minutes, although there are quite significant deviations in the duration of this interval. The average duration of labor is 2–6 hours. It happens that the process of giving birth to kittens is interrupted for 12–24 hours. The cat behaves calmly, licks the babies and cares for them. The birth process then resumes and stops when all the kittens are born.

After all the kittens are born, the cat lies on its side, the babies instinctively find the nipples and begin to suck on colostrum, which is an incredibly nutritious product containing the necessary antibodies. The sucking process stimulates uterine contractions and the release of colostrum.

Help with normal childbirth

During the normal course of childbirth, you should not interfere with the process, since the cat, thanks to instinct, knows how to behave and how to care for the babies. The exception is when the kitten is too large. It can go down the birth canal into the vagina and get stuck there. During strong contractions, the head and part of the body may appear for a short time and disappear back into the vagina when the muscles relax. In this case, the cat will need the owner's help.

You should lubricate the last part of the birth canal with Vaseline and wait 15 minutes. If after this time the kitten is not born, the following measures should be taken: as soon as the cat begins to strain and the kitten’s head appears, you need to quickly press the perineum downwards directly under the anus so that the fetus does not go back into the birth canal. After this, as a rule, the head is born, which is securely held by the lips of the vulva.

The normal interval after which the next kitten is born is from 15 minutes to 2 hours. If the amnion (the thin bladder in which the kitten is located) ruptures in the birth canal, as evidenced by the discharge of amniotic fluid, then the birth of the kitten should occur within 30 min.

Then, wrapping your hand in a sterile napkin, you need to grab the kitten at the withers or back by the skin and carefully pull it out. It should be remembered that you can only pull on the skin, but not on the limbs or the head, otherwise this can lead to injury and damage to the joints. If the owner encounters a difficulty, the kitten’s body should be slightly rocked, first slowly in one direction, then in the other direction. If a bent limb interfered with birth, rotation (swinging) will help free it.

After labor is over, it is useful to have your cat examined. It is best to invite a veterinarian who will examine both the cat and kittens and give his opinion on the condition of the pets.

Help with pathological births

There is always the possibility of various complications during childbirth. If labor takes too long, the time between the next birth of kittens increases, there is a weakening or cessation of contractions, despite the fact that labor has not yet ended, and bleeding has begun, it is necessary to call a veterinarian.

It has already been said that cats can artificially delay childbirth, up to a maximum of 24 hours. This can happen after something has alarmed them. Animals are able to quickly build a nest in another place. Knowing this, in order to prevent the suspension of labor, irritating factors such as strong odors, noise, the appearance of strangers, etc. should be eliminated.

But protracted and difficult labor may have other causes. If the size of the fetus is much larger than the size of the birth canal, they speak of a mechanical blockage. Another reason may be insufficient strength of uterine contractions, while weakening contractions are not able to push the fetus out of the birth canal. Very often, these reasons are interrelated, since prolonged unsuccessful attempts to push the fetus out lead to fatigue, and the uterus stops contracting. The result is the cessation of labor. Pathology more often manifests itself in obese and old-parous animals, as well as in cases where there are few fruits and among them there are especially large ones. Whether dystocia will manifest itself usually becomes clear when the first kitten is born.

Mechanical blockage is formed due to the large size of the fetus or its incorrect position in the birth canal. For example, it happens that the fetus moves through the birth canal from the back to the front. In these cases, the hind limb is born first or the tail is born first. The so-called breech presentation of the fetus, in which the kitten is born with the sacrum or tail, usually complicates childbirth. The hind limb, which is born first (which happens in 20% of cases), as a rule, does not cause difficulties during childbirth. It is much worse if the kitten walks with its head forward, but it is tilted to the side or forward.

A fracture of the pelvic bones can lead to serious difficulties, as can a narrow pelvis. A weak or exhausted uterus cannot contract strongly or frequently, and this leads to the fact that the animal cannot push the fetus out of the birth canal and give birth. Many reasons can lead to uterine atony. If the kitten is large and the uterus is small, it can stretch and expand greatly, while the force of contractions is weakened. The same thing happens with multiple pregnancy, dropsy and torsion of the uterus. Sometimes the blood of a giving birth cat lacks certain substances and hormones, such as calcium or oxytocin. In this case, injections of calcium gluconate and oxytocin increase the activity of the uterus. But with mechanical blockade, oxytocin is contraindicated, since its use can lead to a real threat of uterine rupture. If you cannot palpate the kitten in the birth canal, and labor is delayed, you need to contact a veterinarian and have an X-ray examination done, which will answer the questions of where the fetuses are located and what their size is.

The first kitten should be born within a few minutes of the cat's dark green discharge. Such discharge indicates separation of the baby's place from the wall of the uterus. Discharge is not a cause for concern; it is replaced by normal birth discharge after the first baby is born.

It is better to invite a veterinarian if there are doubts about the successful delivery of the cat. In some cases, precautions can save the life of a woman in labor and her offspring thanks to a timely operation and qualified assistance.

It doesn’t matter if the alarm turns out to be false, care may not be superfluous, if only because it will give the owner the opportunity to make sure that everything is in order.

There are certain signs that will indicate that it is time to seek help from a veterinarian:

– the cat cannot give birth for a whole hour, despite strong contractions;

– the fetus has advanced along the birth canal, but remains there for more than 10 minutes;

– the occurrence of bleeding after the end or during labor (several teaspoons), which does not stop for 10 minutes;

– a sharp increase in temperature above 40 ° C with the manifestation of weakness and apathy or its drop below 36.1 ° C. This temperature gives reason to suspect the presence of an infectious disease;

– abnormal behavior of the cat after the end of childbirth: the animal is worried, does not find a place for itself, may be lethargic, weak, exhausted (the normal state is characterized by calmness, the cat lies on its side, feeds the kittens and cares for them);

– the birth of the next kitten is delayed by more than 3 hours, the cat makes unsuccessful attempts and cannot give birth.

Sometimes the cat is at rest, feels well, and at the same time feeds the kittens, although the birth has not yet ended, but has only been interrupted. As mentioned above, this case should not cause concern, and the correct thing to do here would be to focus on the behavior and well-being of the animal.

If any abnormalities are discovered during childbirth, and it is not possible to call a veterinarian, you have to use your own resources to provide assistance to the cat.

You should prepare everything necessary for childbirth. Gently wash the vulva and the area around it with a soapy solution. Wearing sterile gloves, lubricate them with Vaseline and treat them with betadine solution. To examine and help the animal, you need to very carefully insert your finger into the vagina, without touching the anus, so that no particles of feces get on the sterile glove. The other hand should be placed under the stomach, closer to the pelvis, with it you should feel the kitten and turn it along the bed of the birth canal. With a hand inserted into the vagina, they determine how the fetus is moving: limb, sacrum, tail, etc.

If the kitten's head is turned to the side or goes with its chin, which prevents the passage of the fetus through the opening of the pelvis, you need to very carefully insert your finger into the kitten's mouth, carefully turn its head so that its position does not impede the movement of the fetus along the vagina. Then you need to take measures to retain the fetus. By pressing below the anus on the perineum, you can encourage the cat to push, while simultaneously preventing the fetus from returning to the depths of the vagina and deviation from the correct position. After this, the kitten should be successfully born.

The owner's help may be needed in a variety of cases, for example, if the fetus is stuck due to the fact that it goes sacrum forward, as with many other complications in childbirth.

In the same way, you can help a cat when the fetus moves forward with the sacrum. You need to feel the fetus from the outside in front of the cat's pelvic outlet and grab it in the manner described earlier. A finger inserted into the vagina should feel one hind paw and, hooking it, pass through the narrow opening of the small pelvis into the vagina. The same should be done with the other limb.

The time factor is very important here. It is necessary to remove the kitten as soon as possible, sometimes even at the cost of injury or death, since otherwise it can cause the death of all unborn fetuses.

If the cause of a complicated birth is the large size of the fetus moving head first, the main resistance to advancement is provided by the shoulders. With a finger inserted into the vagina, you should find the elbow bend of first one, then the other limb and, grabbing each of them at the elbow joint, carefully turning the fetus from side to side, you need to alternately pull them forward of the body, towards the vulva. If the kitten is located in the lower part of the birth canal, it will be born quickly, you just need to encourage the cat to strain. To do this, just gently stretch the vaginal opening.

You need to carefully pull the kitten out with a sterile napkin if, when the contraction stops, the head disappears again in the vulva, but appears when the cat relaxes. How to do this was described above, when describing assistance during normal childbirth.

After each kitten is born, the placenta is born. An anomaly in the process of its peeling and a stop in the birth canal prevent the birth of further kittens. In this case, you should grab the placenta with a sterile cloth and gently pull until it is removed from the birth canal.

For uterine atony, an injection of oxytocin, which intensifies contractions, is indicated. If necessary, a second injection is given 20 minutes later. If after this labor activity does not intensify, an operation is indicated - a caesarean section.

The amneotic sac and the fluid that fills it are an obstacle to the newborn’s breathing, so it must be opened within 30 seconds.

Usually the cat manages to do this, but due to circumstances, sometimes she fails to do this. It is necessary to help the kitten free itself by tearing the amnion starting from the mouth and along the entire body. Then you should empty your mouth of mucus using a syringe with a spray can or an eye dropper.

To remove amniotic water from the nasal passages, the kitten is placed on the palm, carefully fixing the head, and sharply turned head down, while the nostrils should be freed and the newborn will be able to breathe. Then the kitten is gently rubbed with a soft cloth or towel, after which it is immediately brought to its mother and allowed to be sniffed and licked by her.

If a kitten is born weak as a result of a long, difficult labor, it cannot breathe on its own. To provide him with first aid, lightly squeeze the chest with two fingers from the sides, then squeeze it in the direction from the chest to the back, from front to back. If this technique is ineffective, artificial respiration must be performed. To do this, you need to breathe a little air into the newborn through his nostrils and mouth so that the chest expands slightly. Under no circumstances should force be used to avoid causing harm and to avoid rupture of the lungs. Exhalation occurs spontaneously. Artificial respiration should be performed until the kitten can breathe on its own.

C-section

If all means of obstetric and medicinal care aimed at resuming labor have been exhausted, the veterinarian decides to prescribe a cesarean section. Here it is necessary to take into account several factors, namely the nature of the birth complication, the condition of the animal, X-ray data, structural features and the size of the pelvis in relation to the size of the kittens, and a statement of vaginal dryness. Caesarean section is also done if oxytocin injections are unsuccessful.

After a caesarean section, a pregnant cat is usually capable of normal spontaneous childbirth, although the possibility of surgical intervention is not excluded. Whether she will give birth on her own is determined by the reason that led to the previous operative obstetrics.

When performing a caesarean section at a veterinary clinic, general anesthesia is used. Typically, for a young healthy cat this operation does not pose much danger, and the animal quickly recovers, starting to feed the kittens after 3 hours.

But if there are aggravating circumstances, then the risk associated with the operation increases significantly. Such circumstances may include a prolonged labor, the onset of intoxication, the death of fetuses, sometimes their partial decomposition, as well as uterine rupture.

Inadequate milk production

In order for a cat to give birth to enough milk, it is necessary that within 24 hours the kittens begin to consume it from the mammary glands, thereby stimulating the flow of new portions of milk. And on the contrary, the less intense the stimulation of the secretion of colostrum and milk as a result of sucking, the more likely it is that its amount in the glands will decrease until its supply ceases completely.

There are animals that may have nipples of irregular shape, namely retracted, double or deformed. The nipple is considered normal if it is well formed and clearly protrudes above the surface of the mammary gland.

Instinct tells a cat to push newborns towards the nipples, especially if she has experience feeding offspring. But some first-time cats with an unstable psyche, nervous and frightened by the unusual changes that have occurred in their body, are unable to listen to the maternal instinct due to an anxious state. You need to approach such an animal with gentle, calm words (cats perfectly understand voice intonations). You need to calm the cat by all available means and, when she is ready, bring the kittens closer to her nipples. You also need to make sure that the cat accepts her kittens. If she started licking the kittens, calmed down and started feeding them, then everything is fine. Most likely, she will take care of her offspring after the next birth.

Sometimes cats, especially first-time mothers, do not have enough milk for all the kittens if they have given birth to many. Therefore, it is important to pay attention to the calorie content of the diet, as well as its balance. As a result of feeding a cat with insufficient caloric food, insufficient milk production occurs. The need for high-calorie food becomes highest during the 2nd week of a cat's lactation.

After consulting with a veterinarian, you need to solve this problem, possibly by feeding the kittens.

Conflict between mother and kittens

If a cat has given birth not for the first time, then she has managed to accumulate the necessary experience and skills in caring for kittens. The mother shows love, care, licks and feeds her cubs, in a word, fully demonstrates the maternal instinct. But if she does not have enough experience, she learns to recognize her kittens by smell. Sometimes it happens that the mother does not notice the kittens for some time. This can happen if kittens were born via caesarean section. If the mother managed to feed the kittens born before the operation with her milk, then the likelihood that the maternal instinct in relation to the rest of the babies will immediately wake up is very high.

A first-time cat will quickly learn new relationships and responsibilities if you help her with this. Rude interference is unacceptable. You need to try to calm the animal if it is excited. Then you should let the cat sniff and lick the kittens, and then attach them to the nipples.

Anything that could frighten or alarm the animal should be excluded. Often children are eager to hold newborn kittens in their hands. This should not be allowed under any circumstances. Strong smells and sounds, strangers and animals cause psychological stress, leading to a weakening of the maternal instinct. The psycho-emotional state of a cat during the first weeks is quite vulnerable. It is advisable to protect the nest from prying eyes and fuss. This primarily applies to nervous, tense cats that avoid communication with people.

Postpartum complications and infections can also prevent kittens from being accepted by the mother. Milk fever, acute metritis, and mastitis do not allow the mother to feed the kittens, and they are fed artificially until the cat recovers.

The owner of a spoiled cat may face the problem of the animal refusing to care for its offspring. In this case, it is recommended to bring the kittens to the nipples, sit quietly next to them, and then quietly move away from the nest.

It happens that a cat does not have milk during the first 24 hours after giving birth. This temporary phenomenon is associated with hormonal changes. During this period, the cat refuses kittens. An injection of oxytocin or other hormones (at the doctor's discretion) will stimulate milk production and bonding with the kittens will be restored.

Sometimes a cat refuses to accept a weakened, sick kitten (as a rule, such kittens have a low temperature). The cat instinctively gets rid of it in order to spend all its energy on raising healthy, viable offspring.

The instinct also manifests itself if the cat moves the kittens to a new place on the 4th day after birth. This is due to the female’s desire to protect her litter by hiding the kittens away from their birthplace, where there are many strong odors that could attract predators if this happened in the wild.

If it is impossible to leave the babies in a new place, then they are carefully returned to their original nest. In this case, it is also necessary to reassure the mother.

While dragging kittens, you must not frighten or irritate the animal, as frightened cats can involuntarily clench their jaws and cause accidental injury to the baby. Kittens can suffer from dragging if the cat is not happy with the site offered to her for nesting. It is necessary to offer her 2 weeks before the birth a place that she will accept and live in, then problems are unlikely to arise.

It is believed that most cases of abandonment of kittens and their injuries are associated with psycho-emotional disorders, with the lability of the cat’s psyche.

Sometimes you have to deal with a violation of the maternal instinct, which manifests itself in eating your offspring (cannibalism). This happens more often with primiparous cats kept in nurseries. It is considered natural and normal for a cat to eat the placenta and stillborn kittens. In rare cases, a mother may inadvertently eat or injure a kitten while she is chewing the umbilical cord, especially if there is an umbilical hernia. But more often these cases are associated with eating kittens weakened by some defects.

In any case, a frightened, nervous, defensive animal is capable of causing accidental injuries due to anger, fear, jealousy and other negative experiences.

If cannibalism does occur, it is necessary to temporarily remove all emerging babies until the birth is completed. During this time they can stay in a special temporary box where heating is provided. It is important to return the kittens within 24 hours while the cat has colostrum, a product that is indispensable in its nutritional value for kittens.

A cat that continues to show aggression towards its offspring should be isolated from kittens, which are subsequently artificially fed or placed in the litter of another lactating cat that does not show aggression towards its adoptees.

The first days of newborn life

Newborn kittens, if they are healthy, sleep almost all the time. When they get hungry, they wake up and, as a rule, look for each of their favorite nipples, remembering its smell. Newborns spend approximately 45 minutes eating each meal. A kitten's eating time per day is 8 hours. If for some reason the mammary gland does not attract a single kitten, then, as a rule, the flow of milk into it stops.

Kittens from the same litter at 3 weeks of age

A caring mother makes sure that the kittens' peace is not disturbed. She guards the nest and takes care of the kittens. By carefully licking her babies, she keeps them clean. In addition, when the mother licks the area of ​​the excretory organs, there is a reflex activation of their activity and emptying of the rectum and bladder.

Kittens are always born blind and begin to open their eyes only on the 5th–8th day. Kittens begin to see fully after 14 days. At first, all babies have bluish eyes. Pigmentation begins only after 3 weeks, with the color finally set by 9–12 weeks.

Kittens are born with tightly closed ears, which open slightly on the 5th–8th day. After 3 weeks, the ears rise. It is more reliable and easier to determine the sex of a kitten after some time has passed after birth, although with experience this can also be done in newly born kittens.

The first attempts to stand on their paws are observed on the 18th day. On the 21st day after birth, kittens begin to walk.

During this period, they are already able to independently eat food from a saucer. From the 25th day, kittens orient themselves in the surrounding space thanks to hearing and vision.

How to determine whether a kitten is lop-eared or not

Any pet is happiness for its owner. But almost every owner dreams that his pet will be the most beautiful, intelligent and loyal.

Lately, fold-eared cat breeds have become very popular. Their hanging ears become a special source of pride for their owners. The question arises: how to determine whether a kitten is fold-eared or not. After all, you can encounter deception; this happens at every step.

General information about fold-eared breeds

The appearance of a breed with an abnormal ear structure dates back to 1961, but fold-eared cats appeared earlier. Scientists analyzed the structure of the animals' ears and came to the conclusion that they had a gene mutation. Then experiments began on fold-eared cats. During breeding, it turned out that it is not necessary to breed two individuals with floppy ears, since there is a gene mutation, the kittens are born weak, get sick and die at an early age.

Scientists have found that in a pair, one individual should have straight ears. The litter will produce kittens with both straight ears and folded ears. When kittens are just born, it is impossible to distinguish folds. The babies look the same.

How to distinguish a fold-eared kitten

Only after two weeks is it possible to distinguish them in the litter. At this time, in babies with straight ears, the ear cartilage begins to harden. This does not happen with folds; they have folds, which are their distinctive feature.

The main rules for choosing a fold-eared kitten:

• The older the baby, the easier it is to evaluate his external qualities. This is especially important if the cat is selected for breeding. It is better to choose an individual that is at least three months old.
• A true “Scotsman” should have a cheeky muzzle and wide-set eyes. Folds often have a wide chest, a thick, short tail and massive paws.
• To avoid an obvious defect, you must definitely feel your nose for the presence of a hump. It shouldn't exist. You should carefully feel the tail; there should be no knots or humps on it.
• The kitten must be completely healthy. Its fur is silky and thick. The eyes are clear, the belly is soft, and the mood is playful.
• If an animal is purchased for breeding or to participate in exhibitions, then it must have a pedigree and a veterinary passport.
• It is better to choose a kitten in the cool season. In extreme heat, there are times when Folds' ears rise slightly. This is not a defect, but an interesting feature of the breed.
• You should not save when choosing an animal. Real thoroughbred “Scots” are not cheap. If the breeder provides a large discount, it is worth considering that the kitten is a reject.

Choosing a purebred Fold with good breeding qualities is a difficult task, but it can be done. How to determine whether a kitten is lop-eared or not is described in detail above, but do not forget that cats are very picky, stubborn and capricious. You need to choose an animal not only based on external data. There is an opinion among animal owners: “We don’t choose them, but they choose us.” If the relationship does not work out from the first moment, then no matter how beautiful the cat is, it is better to take another one. Otherwise, life together can turn into a protracted war, in which it is absolutely unknown who will win whom.

When choosing an animal, at a minimum, it should not hiss or growl at its future owner. And if the cat sits in your arms and purrs sweetly, then this animal is definitely yours! This means that he recognized his future owner as a kindred spirit. And life with such a baby will sparkle with all the colors of the rainbow. Such a cat will really brighten up the life of its beloved owner!