Electric underfloor heating in the booth? Body temperature in dogs - norms and how to measure What UV radiation from the Sun happens

evgen1981 04.10.2013 - 14:31

dear members of the forum, who has experience installing a warm electric floor in a booth? I’m building a booth for a chicken, but I’m worried that it will freeze, they promise a cold winter. I saw ready-made sets of underfloor heating for booths, I immediately rushed to install it, and now I’m thinking whether the dog will get sick because of the big temperature difference. in general help advice.

Stas 04.10.2013 - 14:36

evgen1981
who has experience installing a warm electric floor in a booth

A friend in the VEO booth hung "good warmth" on the wall - such film wall heaters, on the far wall. He says that the dog himself decides what is best: sometimes he sleeps clinging to the wall, sometimes he lies down closer to the exit, even in severe frost.

evgen1981 04.10.2013 - 14:42

Yeah, I know that, but how can a dog not get sick?

evgen1981 04.10.2013 - 14:51

Stas 04.10.2013 - 17:33

evgen1981
I know that. does the dog get sick?

Why should he be sick? It seems to me that this is even more correct than a warm floor, the dog decides for herself where she is more comfortable. True, this is a veo, street content from birth - there in winter there is wool and undercoat like a polar bear. Kurtz may have some features, I never had them. Another friend in the Tambov region has a spaniel in an aviary, in winter he turns on an infrared lamp in its corner, not very powerful, 200 watts, it seems. It's been a normal flight for six years now.

evgen1981 04.10.2013 - 18:05

Underfloor heating is good because the bedding is always dry. ok, who else can tell?

Stas 04.10.2013 - 18:26

evgen1981
Underfloor heating is good because the bedding is always dry.

It won’t be dry, the warm floor normally heats up to 25-30 degrees, approximately, I don’t remember the description exactly, and I have a thermostat without numbers ... So you won’t get dry bedding for sure.

Udavilov 04.10.2013 - 19:42

Make a warm booth. I made a booth, 10 cm polystyrene floor, roofing felt between layers, a 10 cm min-slab roof. At the entrance there is a three-layer curtain, strips of carpet. The entrance is as small as possible. And do not need heating, otherwise the dog may be too lazy to go outside.

Alex Chasnyk 04.10.2013 - 19:59

Here is a good project for a booth for a short-haired dog. Insulated, with a vestibule. Easy access for cleaning, thanks to the lifting roof.

I made an ordinary booth for my dog (German), with insulation. The entrance hole (the height of the hole = the height of the withers of the dog) has curtains made of tent tarpaulin. The floor is insulated with foam. dog booth liked immediately! I still didn’t have time to finish building, as he had already climbed there and lay down!-)). 2 winters already lives in a booth. Heating does not require-))). Before that, he spread different rugs. In the morning they were always lying on the street-)). He threw them away!

Py.Sy. Another important point, when I was looking for how to determine the size of the booth for a specific dog, I saw a lot of clarifying points, in particular: the absence of a draft is very important for a dog. Those. the booth should be made neatly and without cracks.

evgen1981 04.10.2013 - 20:18

I make a booth and so a warm brick. outside, polystyrene inside mineral wool under the skin, but still I worry about the short hair of the kurts, this is not a German.

Alex Chasnyk 04.10.2013 - 20:27

I'm sure good insulation will suffice. Be sure to enter the curtains. And the dog itself “warms” its home quite well.

Py.Sy. Probably, a tree is still better as a material for building a booth, PMSM.

Udavilov 04.10.2013 - 20:39

Alex Chasnyk 04.10.2013 - 20:42

Udavilov
The most common mistake is to make an overly large and high booth. It won't warm it up.

And if the booth is cramped, then it turns out like this:

Therefore, I rummaged through the Internet, and found how to determine the size of the booth, according to the size of the dog.
This is how the house for the dog turned out

Udavilov 04.10.2013 - 23:24

Poor doggie) and the booth looks like a store.

Alex Chasnyk 04.10.2013 - 23:34

Udavilov
and the booth looks like a shopping shack.

Py.Sy.Yes, comfort in the booth is important for a dog. And, therefore, the house must be built in size. In the I-net there is information on how to measure the dog and get the dimensions for the booth. I did just that.

Py.Py.Sy. By the way, here is the booth in the process of being made-))))

the dog already likes it-)))

evgen1981 05.10.2013 - 13:20

the booth is good, but what about the floor? Will the dog get sick or not? is there anyone who did it?

Stas 05.10.2013 - 16:14

evgen1981
Will the dog get sick or not?

It seems to me that kurtshaars are not the most massive dog in the booth. Tell me in a year how the dog lives in the booth 😊

Kurtsik 05.10.2013 - 18:39

the booth is good, but what about the floor? Will the dog get sick or not? is there anyone who did it?

There is no need for heating in the booth - no .... neither on the wall nor under the floor.
This is bad for the dog's health. I don’t have such a practice, but in all books they write that the dog’s place should be away from heating appliances and not in drafts. Temperature fluctuations are bad.
But there is the experience of many of my friends (repeated) - keeping Kurts in an aviary. All the descendants of my males have been kept in the yard since childhood .... such is the mentality of the villagers - they will not let a dog into the house.
The booth should be very warm, with foam, etc. Do not put any rags inside. The rags get damp and the dog throws them away...not because it's hot, but because of the dampness. At the entrance to the booth, hang a tarp (for example) so that it does not blow. It is possible with a vestibule booth (as in the example above). In winter, do not lock the aviary - do not limit the range, let it dangle.
And yet - the dog is transferred to the enclosure in the spring. Over the summer, having molted, in the fall (by winter), with a gradual daily decrease in temperature, the undercoat grows - the Kurts have a very dense, similar to batting 😊 - and the dog successfully hibernates in the booth. And you translate in late autumn - the dog can freeze slightly.

Aleksandr_A 05.10.2013 - 23:37

if we are talking about a booth, then there must be a separate vestibule and the absence of drafts. Be sure to provide for the issue of ventilation - you can not clog the dog in an unventilated space.
As for heating, it's a must. Kurtz will not withstand at -20 on its own heating, I’m not even talking about temperatures higher. The temperature in the booth should be no more than +15, so thermostats with sensors will help you (quality things cost good money). When the dog spends a significant amount of time in the booth, it breathes and additionally warms, the temperature rises significantly. Jumping from +25 immediately to -25 is bad for the dog. In addition, it is desirable that the tambour also have a little heating - the dog will choose where to sit at the moment - either in the warmest room, or choose a cooler one.
As for the material inside the booth - the tree absorbs the smell very strongly, and it will definitely be, it's a dog, so think 100 times, save a penny or do it right away for many years and not know problems.

Then I saw an original heating solution - a film heated floor was turned into warm walls and a warm ceiling 😊 with separation when connected to zones. But this is already a perversion and a strong reinsurance, because. heat rises from below and accumulates at the top, i.e. where there are no dogs. All these lotions a la "good warmth" are not our option, because. it does not heat efficiently, plus there is every chance that the dog will gnaw it at one fine moment.
To finish the booth inside, a laminate is perfect, which does not absorb odor and is perfectly cleaned, plus it can be quickly replaced at any time and is not expensive. To process wood inside with a chemical agent - you yourself understand, is not suitable.
It is also advisable to spend money on the entrance manhole and buy, for example, Ferplast gates (2500 rubles). A dog can also gnaw a tarpaulin and other rags, and if it is young, it will gnaw 100%.
And keep in mind that you are building a booth for a short-haired dog, on a budget, as for a husky or a shepherd dog, you won’t get off.

Kurtsik 06.10.2013 - 12:22

As for heating, it's a must. Kurtz will not withstand at -20 on its own heating, I’m not even talking about temperatures higher.

They withstand easily - it has been repeatedly confirmed by two generations of Kurts ....
I myself am against enclosures - my dogs (all) are apartment dogs.
But those who took puppies from my Kurts have a different opinion. Dogs were kept ONLY outdoors - all in booths. But not in enclosures, but in flight around the yard.
Warm booths, plentiful high-calorie food (during the cold period), unlimited movements and all lived to an advanced age. A female up to 12 years old (got a cold in the November water and was not treated in time), a male up to 11 years old (hunting accident 😞), another male up to 13 years old ... died of natural causes. These are the ones I constantly saw on the hunts. I don't know how long the rest lived.
But I repeat - the puppies were immediately settled in the booth in the spring. The undercoat grows the same as that of short-haired mongrels, gradually even the belly is overgrown.
It's not worth taking risks before winter, the dog without underwear is practically naked, and the coat does not warm - the undercoat warms.

Udavilov 06.10.2013 - 12:27

Alex Chasnyk
Thanks for the compliment-))). I made it myself!

Did you spare the heater?

evgen1981 06.10.2013 - 14:56

Kurtsik and Alexander And thanks for the detailed answers. my dog has been living in a booth since spring, but the booth is cold plywood, now I’m building capital savings, I don’t want to go into detail. in general, I decided on a booth for myself, and I’ll put a warm and warm floor with a thermostat just in case, I won’t freeze, I won’t turn it on 😊 thank you all for the advice, in general, we can close the topic

KuQ 07.10.2013 - 08:24

Hello! By the way, he also got a krzem. Moreover, according to the pedigree, the drathar is branded. And on the muzzle Kurts. But that's not the point. I took it to keep it on the street, but it turns out that the cable freezes. I am also very concerned about the booth and enclosures. And I do them at a fast pace. I'm thinking of putting an infrared panel in an insulated booth. Insulation walls of at least 10 cm - polystyrene. Less radiation will break through. Why him! I have it in the garage. The garage was built in brick. Heated for a week and kept the temperature down to -10. That is, the temperature allows you to work in the garage in a T-shirt. This garage was not insulated. Right now I pasted over the walls with styrofoam 10 cm. In general, class. Consumption 7 watts 1 meter. These panels work so that they heat the surrounding objects and they give off heat. Sensations on the body that the temperature in the room is 3-5 degrees higher. I think I will fill in a 5 cm square and put a film panel under it. a sensor and a relay on the wall so that the average temperature is taken in the booth and that's it. Correct me if wrong!

Big Bob 07.10.2013 - 21:52

KuQ
a square of 5 cm and a film panel under it. a sensor and a relay on the wall to take the average temperature in the booth and that's it

If the panel power is small, there will be a large temperature drift. In other words, with a rapid decrease in the temperature outside, the heating system will react with a delay. The most efficient heating can be achieved with a self-regulating cable embedded in concrete and a temperature sensor.

Aleksandr_A 07.10.2013 - 22:19

I don't understand, are you suggesting putting the dog on concrete/tile?

KuQ 07.10.2013 - 22:44

Aleksandr_A
I don't understand, are you suggesting putting the dog on concrete/tile?

Well, drunken men sleep on warm floors. The wives do not have enough strength to tow to the bed by the leg. As for dogs, I also read that from such a warm floor, the dog even throws out the bedding to her liking. True, scuffs appear on the skin. I do not think that when the cable is heated, the lozenge becomes damp. But with the panel this is possible.

KuQ 07.10.2013 - 22:48

big bob
If the panel power is small, there will be a large temperature drift. In other words, with a rapid decrease in the temperature outside, the heating system will react with a delay. The most efficient heating can be achieved with a self-regulating cable embedded in concrete and a temperature sensor.

What temperature does the stove heat up to? And what is the asking price?

Big Bob 07.10.2013 - 22:59

You can count, but I'm too lazy ...
http://www.teplo-116.ru/images/files/cabels/samreg1.pdf
I will add that it is necessary to control and regulate the temperature of the floor (no more than 40 degrees), and not the air in the booth.

Aleksandr_A 07.10.2013 - 23:42

Decided to keep the dog on the street / aviary - equip her with a comfortable place. There is no money for construction - keep it in an apartment / house. Why torture animals?

KuQ 09.10.2013 - 15:43

Aleksandr_A
Well, try it, in December, when the kidneys fall off - unsubscribe.
I am amazed at the attitude of some owners of hunting dogs, whose dogs run around the yard like mongrels. And after all, such ridiculous arguments to justify this disgrace lead to the fact that even the hair is moving. Starting from self-heating, ending with the protection of the site.
Decided to keep the dog on the street / aviary - equip her with a comfortable place. There is no money for construction - keep it in an apartment / house. Why torture animals?

Yes, enough for you to look for enemies of dogs everywhere. I just read the topic by instinct and saw how you rolled out all the dull ones there. We are here talking about technical possibility or impossibility. Here I am a theorist and looking for sound advice. If I had not taken the dog, the owner would have shot him. I would have shot because I bought a drathar and a Kurtz grew up. Here are the breeders - sellers with film lags mocking. In the pedigree, everything is written in drathar. Sincerely.

Svjtogor 10.10.2013 - 05:09

Good day to everyone, my dog lives on the veranda attached to the house, the veranda is warm. At first there were problems with my wife about the dog, our house is private and she couldn’t come to terms with the idea that the dog would live with us. so I had to insulate an extension, you can even say that this is part of the house or another room for a dog, I immediately crossed out the booth and aviary from the lists, in winter it can be -40 and I could not even think that I would drive her out into the street. I have a large plot, there is a garden, greenfinch, cucumbers 😊 but it is not separated by any fences. And there are no problems about this, in the spring, as soon as the beds are planted, the dog doesn’t go there, I don’t know why, but somehow it turned out that it was for her the territory immediately becomes forbidden 😊 In summer, she spends all day in the yard and I don’t restrict her movement around the site. In the morning I leave for work, I let her go outside, leave the door to the veranda open. She also has free movement around the house except for the bedroom and kitchen when we have breakfast , have lunch or dinner.

Alexander_A 10.10.2013 - 10:05

KuQ
We are here talking about technical possibility or impossibility. Here I am a theorist and looking for sound advice.

There is a technical possibility. As is the EXPERIENCE of other people, which people share, and the smart ones take into account other people's mistakes. I want to fill my own bumps - so no one is against it, do as you decide.

10.10.2013 - 20:34

I have a rat in the booth and a warm floor and a heater - Drat does not complain and does not get sick.

Astol 10.10.2013 - 21:10

Accidentally came across this topic, I will not hide the love of dogs. So I'll tell you a little story that happened to me at the dacha of one big rank on Rublyovka. I came with a team to adjust the automatic gates, well, they did the job, they welded something, tweaked it, the job was done. The owner comes up and says - And you pile a warm booth for the dog, there is material. We scratched our turnips and started. But there was only one condition, that the booth was a copy of the owner's house externally (funny). Once we started, let's do it. Three hours of work and the booth is ready. Got 800 bucks for the job. The booth was made on a whim, because there is no experience in booth building, but there was experience in working in a nursery in the army, something that has remained in my head since then. After a couple of times I came there, although another dog lived there, but everyone is happy, the dog winters perfectly. Insulated the truth, robustly.
By the way, I also saw a booth with an embedded triple-glazed window at one general, where a bitch with puppies wintered with him. I don't know if there was heating. In general, something like this.

oldr 10.10.2013 - 22:10

I'll take a picture of mine over the weekend. While I had a grate - the dogs did not go there at all. I installed double-glazed windows - they lie and look with pleasure; Warm floor only where they sleep - and in the dressing room - just a heater;

evgen1981 11.10.2013 - 05:16

as it turns out, people even put double-glazed windows, and I thought I was the only one going crazy with a warm floor in a booth 😊

11.10.2013 - 08:31

Without a dog on the hunt - you are nobody. Therefore, she must live in good conditions;

The first question that the veterinarian asks during a telephone consultation is: "What is the body temperature of the dog." Most cannot answer this question ... either they don’t know how to measure, or they don’t consider it necessary to do it, but in vain! We will figure out how and how to measure the temperature of a dog and what to do if there is no thermometer at hand.

Normal body temperature in dogs

Each dog owner or volunteer should know these indicators by heart. The rate depends on the age and size of the dog.

Important! The indicators of the table are not absolute truth, since the body of each animal is individual.

The figures are only valid when measuring rectally(the thermometer is placed in the anus). When measuring temperature with a non-contact or electronic thermometer in other areas of the body, the indicators can fluctuate greatly:

Orally (in the mouth)– distortion down to 0.3°.
Axillary (in the hollow under the front or back paw)– distortion up to 0.5° down.

Determination of body temperature during a quick examination

No one (or almost no one) carries a thermometer in their pocket just in case. Finding a dog that visually needs help, you need to focus on your own feelings.

To determine the level of body temperature (increased / decreased) feel the upper and lower gums of the dog, the area under the tongue. If it seems to you that the gums are cold, it's bad. If hot - also nothing good, but there are chances. Normally, you will feel a little warmth as dogs have a higher body temperature than humans.

Altruists can take risks determine the temperature in the anus finger, provided that the dog is large and very (!) calm/immobilized, and the palms are small. Please note that only you are responsible for the unexpected consequences of the “invasion”, be careful and careful!

Important! Do not focus on the dryness and humidity of the nose, this is true if the dog has a strong and prolonged fever! With a lower temperature, the nose will be cold and even wet (which is "rumoured" as an indicator of good health).

Types of thermometers - advantages and errors

So, thermometers differ in the type of fixation of body temperature and the way they are used:

Mercury- a glass thermometer familiar to everyone. An invincible technology with one drawback, you can talk about the correctness of the measurement only after holding the dog with a thermometer in the pope for 7-10 minutes (believe me, this is not easy, especially if the dog does not know you).
Electronic (rectal)- a great breakthrough in the field of temperature measurement and a great option for dog lovers. And yes, such a thermometer is intended only for rectal temperature measurement in people, that is, only through “her very” device gives correct results.
US and IF (ultrasound, infrared)- a great joke, but only for people! The thermometer was originally invented to measure the body temperature of sleeping babies.
ear- can also be used for dogs, but with otitis media or other ear diseases, the result will be very incorrect.
Oral- Not suitable for dogs.

Have you noticed that none of the thermometers is designed to measure the temperature in the armpit? This method is used, but it is not true in the last instance. Separately, it is worth noting the devices intended for the examination of animals:

Veterinary thermometer electronic- yes, it exists, convenience in an extended range - from 32 to 45 °. The measurement is made quickly enough, when the result is ready, the device beeps. There are no special nuances, the temperature is measured rectally, some devices even have built-in memory. Accessory prices start at $10.
Infrared veterinary thermometer- Oh yes, there is one too. The cost of $ 50, judging by the reviews, is not suitable for all dogs and owners. Cheap devices solidly lie, and in the technical characteristics of expensive ones there are unexpected conditions.

How to measure a dog's body temperature

The procedure is not pleasant, at least for the animal, but the body temperature of a dog or puppy is the first line of any anamnesis, even a very meek one. The method of measuring temperature in a dog is the same and has been experimentally tested. Regardless of the type of device, the measurement is performed rectally (anally) and only if ovulation is detected in females, it can be carried out vaginally.

If the anus is damaged and measurement is impossible, they are guided by the situation (usually, they are measured in the cavity between the abdomen and thigh).

Lay the dog on its side and fix it no matter how calm she is. In a dog whose obedience you are sure, the measurement can be carried out while standing.
If you are performing the procedure for the first time and are not sure about the reaction of the animal, tie the mouth with a gauze cut or put on a muzzle.
The tip of the thermometer must be lubricated (Vaseline, cream, linseed oil) ... and you should not spare the lubrication.
Calmly, without trembling in the hands, but without jerking, insert the thermometer into the dog's anus.
We place the thermometer not very deep, approximately as shown in the photo and wait.

Follow the process without removing the thermometer (if you measure with mercury). When the column stopped actively crawling (about 3 minutes), you can already judge the temperature level. For an accurate measurement, you need to wait 7-8 minutes.

The sun is the source of life on the planet. Its rays give the necessary light and warmth. At the same time, ultraviolet radiation from the Sun is detrimental to all living things. To find a compromise between the beneficial and harmful properties of the Sun, meteorologists calculate the ultraviolet radiation index, which characterizes the degree of its danger.

What UV radiation from the sun is

The ultraviolet radiation of the Sun has a wide range and is divided into three regions, two of which reach the Earth.

UV-A. Longwave radiation range
315–400 nm

The rays pass almost freely through all atmospheric "barriers" and reach the Earth.
UVB. Medium wave radiation range
280–315 nm

The rays are 90% absorbed by the ozone layer, carbon dioxide and water vapor.
UVC. Shortwave radiation range
100–280 nm

The most dangerous area. They are completely absorbed by stratospheric ozone without reaching the Earth.

The more ozone, clouds and aerosols in the atmosphere, the less the harmful effect of the Sun. However, these saving factors have a high natural variability. The annual maximum of stratospheric ozone occurs in spring, and the minimum - in autumn. Cloud cover is one of the most variable weather characteristics. The content of carbon dioxide also changes all the time.

At what values of the UV index is there a danger

The UV index gives an estimate of the amount of UV radiation from the Sun on the Earth's surface. UV index values range from safe 0 to extreme 11+.

0–2 Low
3–5 Moderate
6–7 High
8–10 Very high
11+ Extreme

In mid-latitudes, the UV index approaches unsafe values (6–7) only at the maximum height of the Sun above the horizon (occurs in late June - early July). At the equator, during the year, the UV index reaches 9...11+ points.

What is the benefit of the sun

In small doses, UV radiation from the Sun is essential. The sun's rays synthesize melanin, serotonin, vitamin D, necessary for our health, and prevent rickets.

Melanin creates a kind of protective barrier for skin cells from the harmful effects of the sun. Because of it, our skin darkens and becomes more elastic.

Happiness hormone serotonin affects our well-being: it improves mood and increases overall vitality.

Vitamin D strengthens the immune system, stabilizes blood pressure and performs anti-rickets functions.

Why is the sun dangerous?

When sunbathing, it is important to understand that the line between beneficial and harmful Sun is very thin. Excessive sunburn always borders on a burn. UV radiation damages DNA in skin cells.

The body's defense system cannot cope with such an aggressive impact. This lowers the immune system, damages the retina, causes skin aging and can lead to cancer.

Ultraviolet destroys the DNA strand

How does the sun affect people?

Susceptibility to UV radiation depends on skin type. The most sensitive to the Sun are people of the European race - for them, protection is required already at an index of 3, and 6 is considered dangerous.

At the same time, for Indonesians and African Americans, this threshold is 6 and 8, respectively.

Who is affected the most by the Sun?

people with light
skin tone

People with many moles

Residents of the middle latitudes while relaxing in the south

winter lovers
fishing

Skiers and climbers

People with a family history of skin cancer

In what weather is the sun most dangerous

The fact that the Sun is dangerous only in hot and clear weather is a common misconception. You can also get burned in cool cloudy weather.

Cloudiness, no matter how dense it may be, does not at all reduce the amount of ultraviolet to zero. In mid-latitudes, cloud cover significantly reduces the risk of sunburn, which cannot be said about traditional beach holiday destinations. For example, in the tropics, if in sunny weather you can get burned in 30 minutes, then in cloudy weather - in a couple of hours.

How to protect yourself from the sun

To protect yourself from harmful rays, follow these simple rules:

Get less exposure to the Sun during the midday hours

Wear light-colored clothing, including wide-brimmed hats

Use protective creams

Wear sunglasses

Stay in the shade more on the beach

Which sunscreen to choose

Sunscreen varies in terms of sun protection and is labeled from 2 to 50+. The numbers indicate the proportion of solar radiation that overcomes the protection of the cream and reaches the skin.

For example, when applying a cream labeled 15, only 1/15 (or 7%) of the UV rays will penetrate the protective film. In the case of cream 50, only 1/50, or 2%, affects the skin.

Sunscreen creates a reflective layer on the body. However, it is important to understand that no cream is capable of reflecting 100% of ultraviolet light.

For everyday use, when the time spent under the Sun does not exceed half an hour, a cream with protection 15 is quite suitable. For tanning on the beach, it is better to take 30 and above. However, for fair-skinned people, it is recommended to use a cream labeled 50+.

How to apply sunscreen

The cream should be applied evenly to all exposed skin, including the face, ears and neck. If you plan to sunbathe for a long time, then the cream should be applied twice: 30 minutes before going out and, additionally, before going to the beach.

Please refer to the cream instructions for how much to apply.

How to apply sunscreen while swimming

Sunscreen should be applied every time after bathing. Water washes away the protective film and, reflecting the sun's rays, increases the dose of ultraviolet radiation received. Thus, when bathing, the risk of burning increases. However, due to the cooling effect, you may not feel the burn.

Excessive sweating and rubbing with a towel is also a reason to re-protect the skin.

It should be remembered that on the beach, even under an umbrella, the shade does not provide full protection. Sand, water, and even grass reflect up to 20% of UV rays, increasing their impact on the skin.