History of the house and museum. History of the house and museum After the October Revolution, the iron house and Kulakovka began to fall into disrepair. The shelters refused to pay their owners, and the owners, unable to find anyone to complain to, abandoned the matter.

House No. 1\13\6 g. - this large area between Armenian and Devyatkin lanes, facing Pokrovka, has a fairly ancient history.Over the years, its owners changed several times and almost each of them built something.Now there are several buildings from different periods on it. Quite little is known about its first owners and there are large temporal discrepancies and blank spots in different studies. I did my little research, so some significant dates are highlighted in bold in the text. But first things first.

At the end of Armenian Lane in the middle of the 17th century there were two properties: one -Klyucharyov, other -Lyapunovs. They apparently ran parallel to Pokrovka and stretched from Armenian to Devyatkin lane.
By 1716 purchased both plotsand united them state councilor, princeSergei Borisovich Golitsyn(1687 - 1758). His father, Boris Alekseevich Golitsyn, was the steward and educator of two kings Fyodor Alekseevich and Pyotr Alekseevich.
Sergei Borisovich was married twice, his first wife was
Golovina Praskovya Fedorovna(1687 - 1720), with whom he had seven children, his second wife -Miloslavskaya Maria Alexandrovna(1697 - 1767), with whom he had four children. Here, in Armenian Lane, lived various representatives of the Miloslavsky family ( see previous parts 2 and 6), perhaps while visiting his neighbors he met his second wife.
Aboutwide stone chambersbuiltaround the middle of the 18th century, perhaps a princessGolitsyna Maria Sergeevna(daughter of Prince. Sergei Borisovich from his first marriage), they are known from 1757 The facade of the chambers was facing Pokrovka, but stood in the depths of the courtyard,and the ends went out into the alleys. In front of the chambers, along Pokrovka, stretched a garden.Now the chambers includedhouse No. 1\13\6с2 .


The original plan of the building with a central volume protruding on the front and rear facades and small courtyard projections has been preserved.The massive vaults of the first floor and some details of the processing of the rear facade have been preserved: the corner blades of the risalits, fragments of brick-lined platbands.
Ground floor planfrom the book

According to one version, in the second half of the 18th century. the estate passed to the Khitrovo family, and according to another, from the 1740s until end XVIIIcentury the estate belonged to Ya.L. Khitrovo.
Khitrovo Yakov Lukich (1700 - 1771 ) - actual privy councilor, senator, major general. By order of Emperor Peter I, in 1712 he was sent to study at a mathematical school, then studied various sciences, German language and navigation in Reval and the St. Petersburg Naval School, and from 1716 he was assigned to serve in the navy as a midshipman, then he was sent abroad for further training.
Upon returning to Russiain the 1720s served in various positions, incl. was engaged in the purchase of forests for the fleet, as well as the construction of barns and boathouses in New Holland, then was a member of the Admiralty and patrimonial boards. Resigned from service in1762 (as we see, Yakov Lukich died in 1771 and until the end of the 18th century the estate could not belong to him).
Khitrovo was married twice.The first wife of Yakov Lukich Khitrovo was a widowAnna Alekseevna Lopukhina(1733 - 1793), nee Zherebtsova.Shewas the daughter of an actual privy councilor, general-in-chief and senatorZherebtsov Alexey Grigorievich. Yakov Lukich Khitrovo was her second husband. Interestingly, he is 33 years older than her and 12 years older than her father.
Anna Alekseevna's first husband at the turn of the 1760s was a guard captain Nikolai Alexandrovich Lopukhin (1698 - 1768 ). He was 35 years older than his wife and 14 years older than her father. From this marriage, a daughter, Evdokia, the future Countess, was born in 1861 Evdokia Nikolaevna Orlova-Chesmenskaya, she will later become a wife Alexey Grigorievich, the younger brother of Elizabeth Petrovna's favorite.

But let's return to her mother, Anna Alekseevna. After Lopukhin's death May 31, 1768, she marries Khitrovo Yakov Lukich for the second time, but she will not live with him for long and will divorce.
Yakov Lukich will become the second wife Vasilisa Ivanovna, née Golovina.
But what's interesting is on the list of those buried in the necropolisSpaso-Andronikov Monastery the following entries occur "Khitrovo, Yakov Lukich, bolyarin, d. secrets. Sov., buried April 17 1771 Khitrovo" and further "Vasilisa Ivanovna, wife of Yakov Lukich Khitrovo, d. st. owls and gentleman, daughter of the okolnichy Ivan Ivanovich Golovin; r. 15 August (1698) † May 30 (1771), at the age of 72." (Thus it turns out that Vasilisa Ivanovnadied later than her husband, so could only be the second wife of Yakov Lukich, it follows Anna Alekseevna could have married Khitrovo no earlier than June 1769 (the year of mourning for her first husband), and still have time to divorce him. He, Yakov Lukich, in turn, in less than two years will have time to marry Vasilisa Ivanovna again, and instead of a young wife, for the second time he will marry a woman two years older than himself).
And this is the mystery. In the "Index of Moscow for 1793" I discovered that this plot on the corner of Pokrovka and Armenian Lane belongs to " Khitrovo Anna Alekseevna, Dowager General in the Ave. Church of Cosmas and Dimyan on Pokrovka."
In the photo from 1913, on the right you can see the Church of Kosma and Demyan on Pokrovka, and on the left, behind a metal fence, this area with a still preserved garden.


This is confirmed Vbook at Sytin P.V. "From the history of Moscow streets",he writes - " we find - "Finally, at the corner with Pokrovka there was a vast courtyard of General’s wife Khitrova, with stone chambers along the red line of the Armenian Lane, which, however, did not reach Pokrovka.”
It turns out that during his lifetime, even 22 years after the death of Yakov Lukich, Anna Alekseevna keeps her second husband's surname Khitrovo, although she was divorced from him. However, they buried her in the same Necropolis of the Spaso-Andronikov Monastery for some reason alreadyunder the name of her first husband. The entry reads: " Lopukhina, Anna Aleksevna, born Zherebtsova, wife N.A. Lopukhina; r. 1733 † May 19, 1793. Lived 60 years.", . These are the metamorphoses. Maybe someone who knows the answer, write.
At the turn of the 19th century, in 1798, the property is divided into two plots and part, on the side of Armenian Lane, is acquired by the family of Count Levashev F.I.
Fedor Ivanovich Levashov(1751 - 1819) - Russian military leader, major general (from 1793), senator, privy councilor (from 1797). Representative of the Russian noble and count family of the Levashovs.
K.V. Bard. Portrait of Fyodor Ivanovich Levashev. 1793. State Tretyakov Gallery. Depicted in a uniform with aide-de-camp embroidery and aiguillette.

Levashev's wife was presumably Avdotya (Evdokia) Nikolaevna Khitrovo(1775 - 1837). The "Moscow Index" for 1793 says that plot No. 58 "at the Red Gate in the chapel of the Church of the Three Saints belongs to Avdotya Nikolaevna Levasheva, the foreman" ( just at this time Fyodor Ivanovich was a brigadier; he became a major general in 1793, and the directory was prepared earlier).
As stated in the book “Monuments of Moscow. White City”, it was under the Levashevs that the house was rebuilt, receiving a strictly classical treatment of the facade.
Photo from the book "Monuments of Moscow. White City."

The house had a pilastered Tuscan portico and flat arched frames for the small windows on the lower floor.

Subsequently, it was partially built on and changed inside.


Interestingly, there is a broken balcony door in the central window of the second floor; perhaps the house used to have a balcony.


The later addition to the building is clearly visible from the courtyard.

Inside the house, a central classical round hall with deep semi-circular niches in the corners, possibly housing stoves, and a front vestibule from the same period have been preserved.
Photo from the book "Monuments of Moscow. White City." Here the columns look like marble.

And now they are plastered and look like this.


I was filming secretly, someone kept coming in, so the photos turned out crooked.

It is believed that this house was rented by Herzen’s father and uncle A.I. in 1819 - 1821. - Yakovlev Ivan Alekseevich and Yakovlev Lev Alekseevich, Moscow experts V.V. Sorokin write about this. and Romanyuk S.K. The latter quotes “as Herzen wrote in “The Past and Thoughts,” “... the economy was common, undivided estate, a huge servant inhabited the lower floor..." ( but here we are talking about an estate, most likely Pokrovsky-Zaseken, which belonged to the Yakovlev brothers).
Libedinskaya N.B., who wrote the book “Herzen in Moscow,” does not mention this address, and Zemenkov B.S. does not have it either.
Herzen A.I. born in Moscow on March 25, 1812 at 25 Tverskoy Boulevard, he lived there for 5 months, then the family moved to a rented house on M. Dmitrovka (not preserved). This is what A.I. writes. in “Past and Thoughts” - “Until I was ten years old, I didn’t notice anything strange or special in my situation; it seemed natural and simple to me that I was living in my father’s house, ... my mother has the other half...” (as We see that we are not talking about any relocations). And further Herzen writes - “The senator (father’s brother) bought himself a house on Arbat; we arrived alone to our large apartment, empty and dead. Soon after, my father also bought a house in Staraya Konyushennaya.” ( We are talking about a house in B. Vlasevsky Lane, 14, not preserved).
And lastly, Romanyuk mentions another rented house of Herzen’s father in B. Znamensky Lane - “In 1817 - 1818, this house was rented by I. A. Yakovlev, the father of Alexander Herzen.” ( Thus, it turns out that he and his father moved endlessly: from 1812 they lived in M. Dmitrovka, from 1817 in B. Znamensky, from 1819 in Pokrovka, from 1823-1824 in B. Vlasevsky, but these moves are not reflected in "Bylykh and Thoughts", so whether little Herzen lived in the Levashevs' house is worth checking again).


But let's return to the Levashevs. In the "Index of Moscow" for 1839, the owners of the estate in the Ave. Church of Kozmi and Demyan on Pokrovka are listed Levashev Vasily Fedorov h, titular councilor, lieutenant colonel Levashev Alexander Fedorovich- sons of Fyodor Ivanovich. In the same year they sell the estate and it already passes into merchant hands.

How Moscow streets were named

It was named after General N.Z. Khitrovo, son-in-law of Field Marshal Kutuzov. The general owned a house in the area and planned to build a large market nearby for trading greens and meat. The Khitrovo mansion has been preserved and stands on the corner of Yauzsky Boulevard and Podkolokolny Lane in the courtyard of a Stalinist house.

There were two estates on the site of the Khitrovsky market, but they burned down in 1812. For a long time, no one undertook the restoration of these mansions, and their owners were unable to pay taxes. And in 1824, General Khitrovo bought these properties and built a square, and then donated it to the city.

In 1827, Khitrovo died, and the shopping arcades changed owners. The square began to gradually transform: if previously there were front gardens on three undeveloped sides, now there are shopping arcades. On holidays and Sundays, trade extended to the square itself, where portable trays were installed.

In the 1860s, a shed was built on Khitrovskaya Square, where the Moscow Labor Exchange was located. Workers, freed peasants and even unemployed intellectuals flocked here in search of work. Basically, servants and seasonal workers were hired at the Khitrovskaya Exchange. Stock traders became “easy prey” for pickpockets. Not everyone was able to find a job, and many settled in the vicinity of Khitrovka, earning a living as a beggar.

Gradually, inexpensive taverns and taverns were opened around Khitrovskaya Square, charitable organizations fed the poor for free, and the surrounding houses turned into flophouses and apartment buildings with cheap apartments.

Khitrovka was a gloomy sight in the last century. There was no lighting in the maze of corridors and passages, on the crooked, dilapidated staircases leading to the dorms on all floors. He will find his way, but there is no need for someone else to come here! And indeed, no government dared to delve into these dark abysses... The two- and three-story houses around the square are all full of such shelters, in which up to ten thousand people slept and huddled. These houses brought huge profits to homeowners. Each rooming house paid a nickel per night, and the “rooms” cost two kopecks. Under the lower bunks, raised an arshin from the floor, there were lairs for two; they were separated by a hanging mat. The space an arshin in height and one and a half arshin in width between two mattings is the “number” where people spent the night without any bedding except their own rags.

By the end of the 19th century, Khitrovka turned into one of the most disadvantaged areas of Moscow. The flophouses overlooked Khitrovskaya Square - Yaroshenko's house, Bunin's house, Kulakov's house and Rumyantsev's house. And in the mansion of General Khitrovo there was a hospital for Khitronov residents.

In Rumyantsev’s house, for example, there was an apartment for “wanderers.” The heftiest kids, swollen from drunkenness, with shaggy beards; The greasy hair lies over the shoulders; it has never seen a comb or soap. These are monks of unprecedented monasteries, pilgrims who spend their entire lives walking from Khitrovka to the church porch or to the Zamoskvoretsk merchant houses and back.
After a drunken night, such an intimidating uncle crawls out from under the bunk, asks the tenant for a glass of fusel wine on credit, puts on a wanderer's cassock, slings a satchel full of rags over his shoulders, puts a scooper on his head and walks barefoot, sometimes even in winter, through the snow to prove his holiness. for the collection.
And what kind of lies will such a “wanderer” lie to the shady merchants, what will he foist on them to save their souls! Here is a sliver from the Holy Sepulcher, and a piece of the ladder that forefather Jacob saw in a dream, and a pin from the chariot of Elijah the Prophet that fell from the sky.

In Rumyantsev's house, in addition to the shelter, there were taverns "Peresylny" and "Sibir", and in Yaroshenko's house there was a tavern "Katorga". These were unofficial names common among the Khitrovans. Each tavern was visited by a certain type of public. In “Peresylny” there were beggars, homeless people and horse dealers. “Siberia” gathered pickpockets, thieves, large buyers of stolen goods, and in “Katorga” there were thieves and escaped convicts. A prisoner returning from prison or from Siberia almost always came to Khitrovka, where he was greeted with honor and given a job.

Cleaner than the others was Bunin's house, where the entrance was not from the square, but from an alley. Many permanent Khitrovans lived here, subsisting on day jobs such as chopping wood and clearing snow, and women went to wash floors, clean, and do laundry as day laborers. Here lived professional beggars and various artisans who had completely become slums. More tailors, they were called “crayfish” because they, naked, having drunk their last shirt, never came out of their holes. They worked day and night, altering rags for the market, always hungover, in rags, barefoot. And the earnings were often good. Suddenly, at midnight, thieves with bundles burst into the “crayfish” apartment. They'll wake you up.
- Hey, get up guys, go to work! - shouts the awakened tenant.
Expensive fur coats, fox rotundas and a mountain of different dresses are taken out of the bundles. Now the cutting and sewing begins, and in the morning the traders come and carry armfuls of fur hats, vests, caps, and trousers to the market. The police are looking for fur coats and rotundas, but they are no longer there: instead of them there are hats and caps.

The House-Iron is inscribed in the acute corner of Petropavlovsky and Pevchesky (Svininsky) lanes. The owner of the building was Kulakov. Here was one of the most famous and terrible night shelters in Khitrovka with underground corridors. They have been preserved, and during the Soviet years there was a bomb shelter here.

The gloomy row of three-story stinking buildings behind the iron house was called “Dry Ravine”, and all together - “Pig House”. It belonged to the collector Svinin. Hence the nicknames of the inhabitants: “irons” and “wolves of the Dry ravine”.

After the October Revolution, the Iron House and Kulakovka began to fall into disrepair. The shelters refused to pay the owners, and the owners, unable to find anyone to complain to, abandoned the matter.

Also, in the post-revolutionary years, crime increased sharply on Khitrovka. In this regard, in the 1920s, the Moscow City Council decided to demolish the Khitrov market, and on March 27, 1928, a public garden was built on the square. At the same time, the old shelters were converted into housing associations.

In 1935, Khitrovsky Square and lane were renamed in honor of Maxim Gorky. Historical names were returned only in 1994.

They say that the morals described by Gilyarovsky reigned in Khitrovka for only a short time - in the 20th century, when the authorities weakened control. And in the 19th century in this area there were many aristocratic houses that simply could not coexist with shelters. But many people associate Khitrovka with the “bottom” and the play of the same name by Maxim Gorky. And although Gorky drew the “scenery” for the play “At the Lower Depths” in the area of ​​the slum “Millionka” in Nizhny Novgorod, in 1902 Stanislavsky, Nemirovich-Danchenko and the artist Simov came to study the life of the “lower classes” to stage this play in Khitrovka.

On March 20, 2008, the Don-Stroy construction company developed a project for the development of the former Khitrovskaya Square. It was planned to build an office center on the site of the Electromechanical College (Podkokolny Lane, 11a). This caused protest from local historians and local residents.

After collecting signatures, the entire area “The noteworthy place “Ivanovskaya Gorka - Kulishki - Khitrovka”” was taken under state protection. Proposals to develop the area arose many more times, but local residents made it clear that they were against construction on Khitrovskaya Square.

Now all that remains of the Khitrov shelters are the basements and partly the first floors. The rest was rebuilt into prestigious housing.

They say that......Sonka Zolotaya Ruchka hid the treasure in one of the houses on Khitrovka. But no one managed to find him. Those who tried went crazy or disappeared. They also say that the ghost of a woman still wanders the streets of Khitrovsky, wanting to reveal the secret of her treasure.
...Kulakov’s daughter, Lidia Ivanovna Kashina, came to Konstantinovo to see Yesenin.
"You know,
He was funny
Once in love with me, "-
says Anna Snegina, the heroine of the poem of the same name. Its prototype was L.I. Kashina. During Soviet times, she lived in Moscow, on Skatertny Lane, and worked as a translator and typist. Few people know that Sergei Yesenin and the prototype of his “Anna Snegina” are buried not far from each other at the Vagankovskoye cemetery.
...Zhukovsky, Pushkin, Gogol and other famous writers often visited the salon of Elizaveta Mikhailovna Khitrovo, the wife of General Khitrovo. It is known that Elizaveta Mikhailovna woke up late and received the first visitors in her bedroom. Soon a joke appeared in society. Another guest greets the lying hostess and is about to sit down. Mrs. Khitrovo stops him: “No, don’t sit on this chair, this is Pushkin’s. No, not on the sofa - this is Zhukovsky's place. No, not this chair - this is Gogol's chair. Sit on my bed: this is a place for everyone!” .
...the artist Alexei Savrasov ended his life in poverty on Khitrovka. It is believed that Makovsky depicted the artist as an old man in a scarf and hat in the foreground in the painting “The Lodging House”.
... lived on Khitrovka Senya One-Eyed, who drank his eye away. He really wanted to drink, but had no money. And his friend Vanya lived nearby, also one-eyed. Senya came to him and exchanged his glass eye for a quarter of vodka.

Do you have anything to tell about the history of Khitrovka?

In the courtyard of a Stalin-era residential building, on the corner of Yauzsky Boulevard and Podkolokolny Lane, an old manor house has been preserved, to which a small house church, built in the 17th century, was once adjacent. The house and the temple formed the central part of a vast estate, the largest in Kulishki, which in the 17th century belonged to the Golovin boyars.



(c) saitafern

The courtyard of steward Alexei Petrovich Golovin is mentioned for the first time in the inventory of courtyards
and owners from the Pokrovsky to Yauzsky gates in I682. A serving nobleman from an old family, A.P. Golovin advanced during the reign of Feodor Alekseevich. In 1682 he received the rank of steward, and in 1685 he became a boyar. He served in the Order of Monetary Collection, helping his son organize an embassy to China. His son, the famous admiral general, closest associate of Peter I, Fyodor Alekseevich Golovin, was one of the most outstanding statesmen of the Peter I era.


Fedor Alekseevich Golovin.

Having begun his service as ambassador to China, he subsequently took part in the Great Embassy of Peter I to Europe. He recruited foreigners for the Russian service and headed the Ambassadorial Prikaz, the Navigation School, the Armory, the Gold and Silver Chambers, and the Mint. Having headed the domestic shipbuilding industry, Golovin became one of the founders of the Russian fleet. He was one of the first in Russia to be elevated to the rank of count and the first to receive the Order of Alexander Nevsky. Tsar Peter trusted Golovin unlimitedly and called him his friend. Having learned about Golovin’s death, the sovereign signed his condolences to the bereaved family: “Peter, filled with sadness.”


Fedor Alekseevich Golovin.

In the Moscow estate on Kulishki, which passed to him from his father, F.A. Golovin built wooden mansions, and near them in 1695-1698 he erected a small brick house church, consecrated in the name of the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God (large nobles, especially those burdened with age and illness, had to obtain permission to build a house church at the end of the 17th - beginning of the 18th century not difficult).
The Golovin Church belonged to the circle of monuments of the Naryshkin Baroque. In the splendor of the facade decoration, it was inferior to other famous house churches of its time - such as the Signs of the Mother of God in the Sheremetev yard, the Assumption in the Saltykov estate in the Chizhevsky courtyard or the Martyr Irene in the possession of the Naryshkins, but it was quite representative and expressive. Its main volume with a rounded eastern wall, surrounded by a walkway, stood on a high basement, surrounded by an arcade gallery. The octagon may have ended with a tier of bells, since there is mention of a belfry in the documents.
Golovin's property was part of the parish of the Holy Apostles Peter and Paul, which is at the Yauz Gate, and the house church was assigned to it. In 1702, following Golovin’s petition, a young priest from Kostroma, Joseph Ivanov, was assigned here, who was ordained by Patriarch Adrian in 1696 and appointed to take the place of his deceased father in the Kostroma Church of the Prophet Elijah. Father Joseph served in the Golovino church for more than fifty years.
From Admiral Golovin, the estate along with the temple passed to his widow, and then to his nephew, Lieutenant Pyotr Ivanovich Golovin, Life Guards of the Preobrazhensky Regiment.


Coat of arms of the Golovin family.

During the Moscow fire of 1748, the old Golovin chambers burned down, and with them the letters of Father Joseph that had been placed and the passage perished. Two years later, P.I. Golovin turns to the clergy with a petition in which he sets out the biography of the priest, gives him the best description and asks to restore these documents, since without them the priest “does not dare to correct God’s service, and he to me, the named one, with the shown he should be fit for the church, since he is a kind person and not a drunkard, and he always corrects the service without laziness,”
In 1750, the estate was purchased by Prince S.I. Shcherbatov, and in I757 it passed to his widow Natalya Stepanovna, who built a new stone house with an outbuilding on the site of the burnt mansion, connecting the building with the church with a passage. The result was a symmetrical architectural ensemble in the Baroque style, in which the temple played the role of a high-rise dominant.


Coat of arms of the Shcherbatov family.

Since 1757, Priest Alexy Ivanov served in the Kazan house church. After his death, Princess Shcherbatova submitted a petition for the appointment of a new priest, but she was refused registration of the house church, since she was still young and healthy. In 1759, the antimension from the church was “taken by His Eminence Metropolitan Timothy with the animals (symbols of the 4 evangelists - M.K). Only 20 years later, having already grown old, the princess received permission to hold services in the house church, and in 1780 priest Ksenophon Fedorov was appointed there. From the childless Shcherbatova, the estate was inherited by her niece N.N. Nashchokina, who also received permission “due to her middle age and poor health to maintain this holy church.” The priest was provided with “a special house of priests from the owner, in it there are two upper rooms, with partitions in them. Canopies, and in them there is peace in which to cook food< ... >a garden with fruitful trees, money 60 rubles (per year - M.K), six quarters of arzhan flour, one and a half quarters of cereal, two fathoms of firewood< ... >And besides, the parish priest every year, in addition to his coming with a cross on well-known temple holidays, I also have to give 20 rubles for correction.”
In 1785, the estate was sold to Privy Councilor Andrei Dmitrievich Karpov and his wife Natalya Alekseevna, who also had the right to maintain the house church, in which Father Xenophon continued to serve.
After the demolition of the White City wall and the construction of Yauzsky Boulevard at the end of the 18th century, the main façade of the house became the eastern one, and the house church facing the boulevard acquired the significance of one of the high-rise accents in the panorama of the boulevard. During the fire of 1812, the manor buildings were almost not damaged, and the following year services in the house church were resumed.


Oryol hospital (former home of Major General N.Z. Khitrovo) with the house church of the Smolensk Icon of the Mother of God. On the right is the Teleshovs' house. View from the window of the Practical Academy.
Phot. N.M. Shchapova. Beginning 20th century.

In 1821, after the death of N.A. Karpova, the Kazan house church was abolished, and all its property and iconostasis, according to the will of the owner of the estate, went to the New Jerusalem Monastery. There was a family crypt of the Obolensky princes, from whose family Natalya Alekseevna came, who proposed to build a Kazan chapel in the monastery cathedral “to commemorate the relatives who are buried there.”
From the inventory of the property of the closed church it is known that its three-tiered iconostasis was painted and gilded in places. In its place in the row, to the right of the Royal Doors, was the image of the Savior Pantocrator in a silver frame, and to the left was the Kazan Icon “with various feasts of the Lord and the Mother of God in stamps.” The second tier contained five icons, and the third - three large and two small images. The inventory also mentions a gilded copper chandelier with crystal pendants.
In 1822, the estate was bought by Major General Nikolai Zakharovich Khitrovo, who wished to reopen the closed church and consecrate it in the name of the Tikhvin Icon of the Mother of God, since the Khitrovo family, which already had a Tikhvin church on their Kaluga estate, especially revered this icon. In his petition to the Moscow Spiritual Consistory, the new owner of the estate wrote: “Due to my jealousy for the splendor of the temple of God, and especially for the longevity of its existence, not wanting to abolish it and convert it for any home use, I most humbly ask Your Eminence to allow me to arrange for there as before, the iconostasis in the name of the Tikhvin Icon of the Mother of God and supply all the required decent utensils.” The request was granted, and in 1823 the house church in the Khitrovo city estate was re-consecrated.


Church of the Tikhvin Icon of the Mother of God. Project for the reconstruction of the transition from the manor house to the temple. 1844. TSANTDM.

Nikolai Zakharovich belonged to the ancient noble family of Khitrovo, which traced its origins back to Edu-Khan, nicknamed Silno-Khitr, who left the Golden Horde in the second half of the 14th century to the Grand Duke of Ryazan Oleg Ioannovich, nicknamed Silno-Khitr, who was named Andrei at baptism.


Coat of arms of the Khitrovo family. Coat of arms of the Gagarin family.

UPD: The Gagarins' coat of arms is erroneously shown above. Here is the coat of arms of Khitrovo with a description:


Coat of arms of Khitrovo.
"In the middle of the shield, which has a red field, is depicted a noble golden Crown, through which emerge two cross-shaped swords, with their points facing the upper corners, and between them in the lower part of the shield there is an octagonal silver star. The shield is crowned with an ordinary noble helmet with a noble crown on it because of it in which three ostrich feathers are visible. Mark it on the shield in red, lined with silver."

N.Z. Khitrovo was an aide-de-camp (an officer in the emperor’s retinue) to Paul I and Alexander I, and participated in the wars of 1805-11. against France and Turkey, took part in the siege of Brailov and retired after being wounded. This was the end of his military career. Just before the war of 1812, he was accused in the case of M.M. Speransky and exiled first to Vyatka, and then to his estate near Tarusa. After Napoleon was expelled from Russia, Nikolai Zakharovich, thanks to Field Marshal M.I. Kutuzov-Smolensky (Khitrovo was married to the field marshal’s second daughter, Anna), was forgiven and left for Moscow. During his stay in Vyatka, he kept a “journal”, an excerpt from which, concerning the history of this city and some of its attractions, was published in the “Works and Notes” of the Moscow Society of History and Russian Antiquities (Part III, Book 1). He was a zealous corresponding member of the Bible Society. He published two brochures: “The Przemysl Lyutik Monastery” and “Instructions on what days to read the Holy Gospel.” He was elected an honorary member of Moscow University in 1825-1826.
N.3. Khitrovo completely rebuilt the old Shcherbatov house in the Empire style, decorating the elegant façade with a white stone portico. The church also received a new look: the baroque decor was cut down, a new chapter was placed above the octagonal dome, and the walls were decorated with stucco wreaths and garlands characteristic of the Empire style. The archives of the Moscow City Government preserved a drawing of the main facade of the house and the temple, which, however, was not executed entirely accurately.
Finally, in 1823, N.Z. Khitrovo bought two burned-out courtyards of Kalustova and Bazhukina, located next to his estate, which were never able to renew them after the fire of 1812. The new owner demolished the ruins, cleared the land and offered the Moscow mayor V.D. Golitsyn to organize a meat and vegetable market here - instead of trading at the Varvarsky Gate, which had a bad reputation.
Khitrovo donated 1,000 rubles for the improvement of the shopping area. The City Duma accepted this proposal. The square was paved and lined with trees, lanterns were installed and a large metal canopy was made, and Khitrovo built a stone building with warehouses on it. Everything was ready for the opening of the market. But in 1826, Nikolai Zakharovich died, and his heirs abandoned their father’s idea, sold the estate and left these places.
The market never really opened, and only in winter seasonal meat fairs were held on Khitrovskaya Square. The free space was soon filled with craftsmen who gathered here in artels waiting for employers, which could last several days, weeks, or even months. Neighboring homeowners built lodging houses, cheap taverns and taverns for them. Ancient aristocratic estates were rebuilt and turned into lodging houses. So, in the middle of quiet, cozy Kulishki, the famous Khitrovka gradually formed. The taverns and taverns on the Khitrov market were named in accordance with the tastes of its inhabitants - "Katorga", "Peresylny", "Siberia", etc. Four homeowners: Rumyantsev, Kulakov, Yaroshenko and Kiryakov (and after him Bunin) - set up a lodging house here fishing on a grand scale. Khitrovka became a terrible plague in Moscow already in the 1860s, and at the beginning of the twentieth century it was already a unique state with its own government and its own laws. It was impossible to eliminate it, but to force the owners of the shelters to strictly comply with the sanitary standards of the authorities. they could.
The merchant A.N. Nemchinova, who bought the Khitrovo estate, rented it out (since 1829 to the Society for the Encouragement of Diligence), and the house church was once again closed.


Plan of the city estate of Colonel V.I. Orlov. 1843. TSANTDM.

In 1843, the estate passed to the guard Colonel Vladimir Ivanovich Orlov, and in 1851 - to his widow Ekaterina Dmitrievna.


Estate of V.I. Orlov. Main house. Eastern façade. 1844. TSANTDM.

The property retained a large ancient garden, but was gradually built up with small buildings. According to the will of V.I. Orlov, after the death of his wife, the estate, for lack of heirs, was to pass to the Moscow Trustee Committee for the Poor of the Imperial Humane Society. E.D. Orlova lived for a long time and only in 1889 the estate on Yauzsky Boulevard came into the possession of this oldest charitable institution in Russia. A hospital for the poor was set up here, which was called Orlovskaya. "The Oryol hospital in Podkolokolny lane. The Moscow Committee for the Care of the Poor, for indigent patients who come, is under the patronage of Prince Alexander Petrovich of Oldenburg. Open daily from 10 to 2 hours. At the hospital there is a special department with 5 beds for surgical patients and a pharmacy with free dispensing of medicines "(All Moscow: Address book for 1908. Dept. 1. P. 497.)
The abandoned house church was opened for the third time in 1892 and consecrated in honor of the Smolensk Icon of the Mother of God; a canteen for the poor was set up in the basement under the church.


Church of the Smolensk Mother of God at Orlova’s house on Khitrovskaya Square. Photo from the late 19th century. (Scherer, Nabholz and K).

The charitable institution in the former Orlov estate was intended mainly for the inhabitants of Khitrovka. Here they were treated, had simple operations and were fed in the canteen.
Judging by the fact that, as a rule, experienced priests were appointed as rectors of the house church on the Khitrov market, the Moscow authorities attached great importance to this church. Here, beggars, tramps, criminals, people of the “bottom” who were so masterfully depicted by Gilyarovsky and Gorky received spiritual nourishment. Since the opening of the Smolensk Church, Archpriest Vasily Tsvetkov served here. In 1909, he retired, but continued to live at the church, and Archpriest Vasily Olkhovsky was appointed the new rector. The clergy register for 1912 also mentions the second priest of the Smolensk Church - Viktor Korennov. In 1904, deacon Vladimir Rozanov appeared in the church. The position of headman was performed by the merchant Alexander Selevanovsky.
In 1919, the Smolensk Church, like most house churches, was closed, and in September 1922, paramedic courses moved to the house of the Oryol hospital, reorganized in 1923 into a three-year paramedic school named after Gubotdel Vsemedicsantruda. In 1928, the school was transformed into the Clara Zetkin Medical Polytechnic (since 1954 - Moscow Medical School No. 2 named after Clara Zetkin).
Around 1932, the Smolensk Church was demolished.


The place where until 1932 there was a temple of the Smolensk Icon of the Mother of God. View from the southeast (reference - edge of the hospital building). Photo from 1979.

The demolition of the church was accelerated due to the construction of a multi-storey residential building in this area
designed by architect I.A. Golosov.

They were going to demolish the entire estate, but the administration of the Medical School. Clara Zetkin defended her buildings, and at the turn of the 20th-21st centuries they were restored.

The city estate of Shcherbatova - Khitrovo was first mentioned at the end of the 17th century, then it was the largest landholding in the parish of the Church of Peter and Paul at the Yauz Gate, near the wall of the White City and belonged to an associate of Peter I, Field Marshal General Fyodor Alekseevich Golovin.

Residential buildings in the city estate were wooden.

In 1695-1698, Golovin built a stone house church in his estate in honor of the Kazan Icon of the Mother of God. In 1748, under the owner Pyotr Ivanovich Golovin, the city estate burned down. On Gorikhvostov’s plan of Moscow, reflecting the situation in the mid-18th century, the site is shown empty, with small buildings along the borders. The temple has been preserved. The territory of the future urban estate of Shcherbatova - Khitrovo had a triangular configuration with borders along Bely Gorod Passage and Podkolokolny Lane.

Since 1750, the city estate belonged to Prince Semyon Ivanovich Shcherbatov, and since 1775, his widow Natalya Stepanovna Shcherbatova. On the plan of Shcherbatova's property for 1775, signed by the architect Vasily Yakovlev, old wooden buildings destined for demolition, a church and new volumes are shown - the central house and the southern outbuilding with passages. The property was a magnificent Moscow Baroque ensemble - an example of an 18th-century city estate.

Shcherbatova's city estate in 1780 passed to her niece Natalya Nikitichna Nashchekina. In 1785, the property belonged to Colonel Alexander Dmitrievich Karpov and his wife Natalya Alekseevna. In 1812, the area near the Yauz Gate was damaged by fire, and the house church was reconsecrated after being plundered in 1817.

Natalya Karpova died in 1821, already a widow. She bequeathed to transfer the property of the house church to the New Jerusalem Monastery, where her relatives were buried, with a request to bury her in one of the chapels of the monastery church. The house temple was abolished.

In the same 1821, Karpova’s yard was acquired by Major General Khitrovo.

By 1823, Nikolai Zakharovich was buying up neighboring properties next to the estate. He demolished the remains of burnt buildings. A meat and vegetable market was opened in the cleared and paved area. Khitrovo rebuilt the main house, built by N.S. Shcherbatova. The old decor was knocked down, a mezzanine was built on, and a white stone portico was added to the house from Yauzsky Boulevard. The church was rebuilt in the Empire style and re-consecrated in 1822 in honor of the Tikhvin Icon of the Mother of God.

After the death of N.Z. Khitrovo in 1826, the city estate of Shcherbatova - Khitrovo changed several owners until it passed to the guard Colonel Vladimir Ivanovich Orlov. The site plan of 1843 shows a wide drive leading to the house through the garden. At this time, the facades and interiors were remodeled. The main house was a 3-story building, decorated with a six-column portico. Wings and an outbuilding are attached to it.

The house church acquired decoration typical of the 40-50s of the 19th century.

From the document of 1851 it follows that V.N. Orlov bequeathed his estate with a house and church to the Moscow Trustee Committee for the Poor of the Imperial Humane Society, which was to pass to the new owner after the death of his wife, Ekaterina Dmitrievna Orlova. Ekaterina Orlova lived for a long time; some of the buildings were rented out to the merchant Yegor Ivanovich Nekrasov.


In 1889, the city estate of Shcherbatova - Khitrovo, according to the will of E.D. Orlova, passed to the Imperial Humane Society. Here it was decided to set up an outpatient hospital for the poor with an operating room for simple operations and several hospital wards. The site was finally assigned to the Committee of Trustees in 1892. The reconstruction of the house and its adaptation to a hospital began under the supervision of the architect of the Humane Society, Pyotr Pavlovich Zykov.

A new cast-iron staircase was installed in the mezzanine and in the attic, the Dutch ovens were replaced with central heating, a stone fence was installed, a new gate was built, a new wooden vestibule was built, the room under the church was adapted for a people's dining room with window and door openings made. The transition to the church was rebuilt. The large hall on the 2nd floor received a new finish, where four pairs of plaster columns were installed. Under the Orlovs, the house church was inactive. The Trustee Committee resumed its finishing. In 1893, the consecration of the house church took place, this time dedicated to the Smolensk icon.

The market established by N.Z. Khitrovo (Khitrov market) in the 2nd half of the 19th century gradually turned into one of the most crime-prone zones in Moscow, and quiet Kulishki was filled with flophouses and brothels. Khitrovka became a labor exchange for artisans coming to Moscow, and at the same time a shelter for tramps and thieves. The Oryol hospital served primarily this contingent, and the house church was intended for it. A free canteen was organized in the basement of the church.

The 1915 Valuation Roll shows the use of all rooms in the house. On the ground floor there was a kitchen and dining room for the poor, an office, a dressing room, apartments for the priest, psalm-reader, pharmacist and paramedics, housing for lower personnel, and a boiler room. On the second floor there were doctors' offices, a reception room, an operating room, and three hospital rooms. Part of the territory of the property was occupied by warehouses of the Bolshevo Shelter (a charitable institution of the Humane Society in the village of Bolshevo).

After the revolution, the Oryol hospital, the People's Canteen and the house church were closed.

In 1922, paramedic courses were located in the building of the Oryol hospital.

In 1930 The church and its basement were dismantled, and in 1937, on the territory of the former hospital, they were erected according to the design of the architect N.A. Golosova building of a multi-storey residential building. Thus, the ancient building ended up in the courtyard of a residential building.

At the end of the 20th century, the building was restored. After restoration, the western façade of the main volume (at the level of the 1st and 2nd floors), the eastern and part of the southern façade of the wing were restored to their baroque appearance from the mid-18th century. The decorative design of the facades has been recreated. The eastern facade of the main volume has retained its Empire appearance.

The main house of Shcherbatova's urban estate - Khitrovo has retained its volumetric and planning structure within the main walls. The interior spaces were also restored. The Kasli cast iron staircase leading from the first to the second floor has been preserved, and the decorative decoration of the front hall, located in the northern part of the second floor of the main volume, has been recreated.

Currently, the building houses Medical School No. 2 named after Clara Zetkin.