A microscope is a rather complex optical instrument that can be used to observe objects that are invisible or difficult to see with the naked eye. It allows curious people to penetrate the secrets of the “microcosm”. You can try to make a microscope yourself. There are quite a few designs of homemade microscopes, and in this article we will look at one of them.

One of the most successful designs was proposed by L. Pomerantsev. To make a microscope, you need to purchase two identical lenses of +10 diopters each, preferably with a diameter of about 20 millimeters, from a pharmacy or optical store. One lens is needed for the microscope eyepiece, the other for the objective. But first, let's understand the units of measurement of lenses.

What is lens diopter

Diopter is a unit of optical power (refraction) of a lens, the reciprocal of the focal length. One diopter corresponds to a focal length of 1 meter, two diopters - 0.5 meters, etc. To determine the number of diopters, you need to divide 1 meter by the focal length of a given lens in meters. Conversely, the focal length can be determined by dividing 1 meter by the number of diopters. The focal length of a +10 diopter lens is 0.1 meters or 10 centimeters. The plus sign indicates a converging lens, and the minus sign indicates a diverging lens.

How to make a homemade microscope

Ten centimeters long according to the diameter of the lenses. Then cut it in half to make two tubes five centimeters long. Insert lenses into them.

At one end of each tube, glue a cardboard ring or a ring glued from a narrow strip of paper with a hole ten millimeters in diameter. Place the lens on the inside of this ring and press it with a cardboard cylinder coated with glue. The inside of the tube and cylinder should be painted with black ink. (This must be done in advance)

Insert both tubes into the tube - the third tube is 20 centimeters long and has such a diameter that the eyepiece and lens tubes fit tightly into it, but can move. The inside of the tube should also be painted black.

Draw two concentric circles: one with a radius of 10 centimeters, the other with a radius of 6 centimeters. Cut out the resulting circle and cut it into two parts along the diameter. Using these semicircles, make a C-shaped microscope body. The semicircles are connected with three wooden blocks, each 3 centimeters thick.

The upper and lower blocks should be 6 centimeters long and 4 centimeters wide. They protrude 2 centimeters beyond the inner edge of the plywood semicircles. Attach the tube with tubes and the adjusting screw to the top block. For the tube, cut a groove in the block, and for the adjusting screw, drill a through hole and hollow out a square recess.

A – tube with lenses; B – tube; B – microscope body; G – connecting blocks; D – adjusting screw; E – stage; F – diaphragm; Z – mirror; And - a stand.

The adjusting screw is a wooden rod onto which a cylinder cut from a pencil eraser or wound insulating tape is tightly seated. It is best to use a small piece of suitable rubber tubing for this purpose.

The screw is assembled like this. Cut the block in half lengthwise. We thread the screw rod into the hole in one half, place a rubber cylinder on it, then thread the other end into the hole in the second half of the block and glue both halves together. The rubber cylinder should fit in the square recess and rotate freely in it. We glue the block with the screw to the plywood semicircles, making cutouts at their ends for the screw core. At the ends of the rod we attach handles - halves of a spool of thread.

Now attach it to the block using a bracket bent from tin. First, make cutouts in the bracket for the screw and nail it or screw it to the block with screws.

The rubber cylinder of the adjusting screw should be pressed tightly against the tube; when the screw rotates, the tube will move slowly and smoothly up and down.

The microscope can be made without an adjusting screw. In this case, it is enough to glue the tube to the top block, and point the device at the object only by moving the tubes with lenses in the tube.

Nail or glue an object table on top of the bottom block - with a hole about 10 millimeters in diameter in the middle. On the sides of the hole, nail two curved strips of tin - clamps that will hold the glass with the drug in question.

Attach a diaphragm to the bottom of the object table - a wooden or plywood circle, in which four holes of different diameters are drilled around the circumference: for example, 10, 7, 5 and 2 millimeters. Secure the diaphragm with a nail so that it can be rotated and so that its holes coincide with the hole in the stage. Using the diaphragm, the illumination of the preparation is changed and the thickness of the light beam is adjusted.

The dimensions of the object stage can be, for example, 50x40 millimeters, the diaphragm size is 30 millimeters. But these sizes can be either increased or decreased.

Below the object table, attach a mirror measuring 50x40 or 40x40 millimeters to the same block. The mirror is glued to the board, two nails without heads (gramophone needles) are hammered into it on the sides. Using these nails, the board is inserted into the hole of a tin bracket screwed to the block with a screw. Thanks to this fastening, the mirror can be rotated and installed at different angles on the hole in the object table.

Use the third connecting block to attach the microscope body to the stand. It can be cut from a thick board of any size. It is important that the microscope rests firmly on it and does not wobble. Cut a straight spike from the bottom of the block, and hollow out a nest for it in the stand. Lubricate the spike with glue and insert it into the socket.

The microscope is adjusted by turning the mirror, moving the tube and tubes with lenses in the tube with a screw, magnifying the image 100 times or more.

Before you make a microscope with your own hands, you should understand what it can be used for, as well as what materials are required for this. It should be noted right away that you can build such a structure yourself, and you do not need any expensive elements.

What is the device used for?

In principle, the main goal of any microscope is to magnify an object by several tens or hundreds of times. The presented devices are used not only in biology lessons at school, but also in medicine, electronics and other fields. For example, thanks to a digital microscope, it is possible to repair very small microcircuits, mobile and computer boards.

The most convenient is the electronic device, since it is capable of magnifying the object very much. It should be noted that building a microscope with your own hands is not difficult. You just need to know its structure and also collect the necessary materials.

What can the device be made from?

Naturally, you can construct a microscope with your own hands from scratch. However, often those people who understand electronics, computer technology and optics make the presented device based on other units: cameras, binoculars, web cameras.

Before starting to manufacture a structure, it is necessary to accurately determine its functions and select the necessary elements. It is also advisable to make a drawing of the device on paper. Naturally, all the necessary calculations are made.

We make the device from scratch: necessary materials and tools

In order to make a microscope with your own hands without ready-made instruments, you will need the following equipment:

Glass tube. Its length should be approximately 20 cm and its diameter up to 6 mm.

Several plates (preferably copper). The thickness of the metal should not be large (about 1 mm). As for the overall dimensions of the plates, they are 3*6 cm.

Several small pieces of glass.

Small diameter drill.

Gas burner.

Hammer.

Screwdriver.

Nuts and screws.

If you do not have metal that will serve as a base for the structure, you can use thick cardboard. However, keep in mind that in this case the device will not be durable and will not last for a long time.

Making a device: instructions

Before making a microscope, familiarize yourself with the sequence of work:

1. First of all, using a torch to make a small ball from a glass tube, which will serve as a lens for the device. Please note that this element should never be touched with your hands, as marks will remain on the surface, which will subsequently distort the image.

2. At this stage you need to make a housing for the lens. To do this you will need metal plates. To make the use of such a device convenient and safe, it is necessary to round the corners. Holes should be drilled in the “body”: 4 mounting holes and one inspection hole.

3. Now you can put the whole structure together. To do this, a “lens” is installed between the plates, and the body is bolted together. Next, on one side of the lens, using tape, you can glue the glass onto which the object will be placed.

This microscope design is manual and the simplest. The presented device can be used by adults and children at home. For professional work, you will need a more complex, digital device. Next you will learn how to build it.

How to make an electron microscope: necessary materials

To make the presented device, a webcam is usually used. Before making a microscope of this type, collect all the necessary material and tools:

Personal computer or laptop.

Webcam (preferably with manual focus). Please note that we will need a lens, so it should be easy to remove from the original device.

Several large and small corners, from which a stand will subsequently be built.

A steel tube of small diameter and a special mount that can move and be fixed on the metal surface.

A small mirror or flash from a mobile phone to create lighting.

Metal plate for making a platform.

Fasteners, as well as a hot glue gun.

Instructions for making a digital microscope

Making a digital microscope with your own hands is very simple, you just need to follow a certain sequence of actions:

1. First you need to build a “skeleton” of the structure. To do this, you need to connect the metal plate to the corners. All elements can be bolted together. A small diameter metal pipe can be used as a tripod. It has certain advantages. For example, using special fasteners, you can screw another small piece of pipe to the vertical element, to which the lens will be attached. If necessary, you can raise or lower this element. In addition, to build a platform, you can also use a small cardboard box into which a tripod is inserted and filled with tile (or other) adhesive. Please note that the structure must be as stable as possible.

2. Next, you can make a focus adjustment knob. For this, a nylon thread (or elastic band), a movable sleeve, and an eyelet are used to fix the thread on a tripod. That is, you need to make a kind of gearbox, thanks to which the focusing accuracy of the lens increases.

3. Next, making an electron microscope with your own hands is simple. Now you need to unscrew the lens from the webcam. Do this carefully so as not to damage the element. Next you need to turn it over and put it in place. Use hot melt adhesive for fastening. The finished structure can be attached to the movable part of the tripod. Under it you should organize a subject table with lighting. For this, a regular LED is used.

4. Lastly, you need to process the webcam wire. That is, you should cut off its thick braid. In this case, it will become more flexible and will not interfere with the movement of the lens.

Now you know how to make a microscope with your own hands. Good luck!

During my school years, I really liked looking at different objects under a microscope. Anything - from the insides of a transistor to various insects. And so, I recently decided to play around with the microscope again, subjecting it to some minor alterations. Here's what came out of it:

Under the microscope - the KS573RF2 microcircuit (ROM with UV erasure). Once upon a time, a test program for the Spectrum was recorded on it.

If you try to solve the problem “head-on” - placing the camera at the eyepiece of a microscope, then nothing good will come of it: it is very difficult to find a point where at least something is visible, the camera is constantly trying to adjust the exposure, the visible area is very small (in the video from this is visible in the first version of the eyepiece). So I decided to go a different route

A little theory

The image that the human eye sees in geometric optics is called a virtual image, and the image that can be projected onto a screen is called a real image.
The camera perceives a virtual image, converts it into a real image using a lens, and projects it onto the matrix.
As my experiments have shown, in a microscope everything is the other way around: the image before the eyepiece is real (since by substituting a sheet of paper I saw what was under the microscope), and after the eyepiece it is imaginary (because it is visible to the eye).
Therefore, if you remove the lens from the camera and the eyepiece from the microscope, the image will immediately be projected onto the webcam matrix.
More details about geometric optics -.

From theory to practice

I disassemble the camera:

I remove the lens:

First test:

To make something last forever, you need to rewind it with blue electrical tape...

I am making a tube that will be inserted into the microscope in place of the eyepiece:

The tube is a little smaller in diameter than needed, so one end had to be “widened” a little.

I secure the tube with hot glue to the camera without a lens:

I insert instead of one of the eyepieces:

Ready!

Below are a few videos that were shot using this lens:

Fly's eye

eInk screen from PocketBook 301+

Retina screen from iPod

Nokia 6021 screen

CD surface

Do you want, without purchasing a complex microscope, to observe the most interesting life of the simplest algae and other invisible inhabitants of a drop of stagnant water, to penetrate with your gaze into the secrets of plant cells - to see red blood cells? Do you want to see what the wonderful scales of a butterfly’s wings and the smallest flower pollen look like under high magnification? If you like to do everything yourself, then making a 200-500x microscope will not present any difficulty for you. The microscope is original - without a single glass lens (a regular one has several). Its main optical part is a tin plate with a small hole of 0.3-2.5 mm, into which a drop of water or, better yet, glycerin is placed, held by capillary attraction. If the hole is well processed, the drop takes the shape of a regular, strongly convex lens. Through this single, but very strong “lens”, a transparent or fairly small object is viewed in transmitted light, which is placed at a distance of 0.2-3 mm from the lens, depending on its magnification. The tin plate with drop is held by the top wooden block, which can be raised and lowered with a screw. The block is hinged on the stand. On another, located just below the fixed block, there is a tube glued together from paper, into which another movable tube is inserted, secured with a screw. A round fixed plastic table with a 6-8 mm hole is glued to this tube on top, along which another movable square plastic table moves in two horizontal directions with the help of screws and a spring. A metal bracket prevents it from lifting and jumping off. The hole in this table is made larger. A round plate, also with a wide hole, is glued to the top of the square movable table. A glass slide is placed on it. The diameter of the tables and plates should not exceed 50 mm. To protect the liquid lens from dust and from deformation, it is protected with a piece of clean celluloid film, which is glued to a small plastic washer. For convenience, a round, 30 mm in diameter, eyepiece shield with a hole for the eye is attached to the upper movable block. The shield can be moved to the side when replacing the lens. The object is illuminated from below by a movable mirror through a diaphragm equipped with holes from 2 to 15 mm, providing a significant improvement in image quality if the diaphragm is placed no closer than 100 mm from the object. The central post is fixed motionless in the stand. The object to be examined is placed on glass that does not extend beyond the table. To obtain a good image, it is especially important to carefully process the hole for the drop in the plate, since even a slight irregularity in the hole, an imperceptible blockage or burrs will distort the drop and spoil the image. Therefore, when drilling and processing a hole, its quality must be constantly checked using a strong magnifying glass. To prevent the drop from spreading, the plate is lubricated with Vaseline and then wiped almost dry. The plate and glycerin must be immaculately clean: the smallest debris in the glycerin will settle to the bottom or float to the top of the drop and turn into a foggy spot in the very center of the field of view. For greater magnification, smaller diameter holes must be used. It is better to make a set of plates with holes from 0.3 to 2.5 mm. With skillful handling, the microscope can provide magnification up to 700 times. Every tinkerer can make such a device in a short time from small pieces of wood, plastic, a tin can and a few screws.

"Technology of Youth", 1960, No. 1, Grebennikov V.S.

Here are drawings of a very simple pocket microscope, which is convenient to use on a hike. To make it you will not need any scarce parts, not even lenses. It is replaced by... a drop of water. In a wooden block (40x70x20 mm) you drill (turn) a through hole with a diameter of 8 mm and paint it from the inside with black gouache paint. This is a microscope tube. It must be located exactly relative to the center lines of the bar. Then cut out two disks from tin (from a tin can), one for apertures, the other for lenses. When riveting the diaphragm disk to the bracket, remember: 1) that it should be pressed so tightly against it that there is no side illumination into the tube, and 2) that the center line of the tube should coincide with the holes of the diaphragms. The focusing bar is attached to the block (the base of the microscope) also with strict adherence to the axial alignment of the centers of the lenses with the center of the tube. Be especially careful when making the objective disk: the quality of the microscope’s operation depends on the cleanliness of the holes made. Having marked the disk according to the drawing, punch holes in it and unfold them with an awl. Sharpen the resulting burrs on a whetstone. The holes must be of the correct shape and the required diameter and, most importantly, must have a bevel (chamfer) necessary to form a droplet sphere. The counterbore of the holes is directed outward. The objective disk is attached to the focusing bar with a rivet and washer. Before using the microscope, carefully wipe the objective disk with a cloth, and lightly grease the edges of the holes intended for water lenses with some kind of grease, then the water droplets will not spread. Cut out glass slides (15x70 mm) from photographic plate. Place the object in question between them and slide both glasses into the socket of the block so that the object in question is opposite the viewing lens. Then use the pointed end of a match to draw clean water and touch it to both holes of the objective disk. Once in the holes, the drops will take the shape of biconvex lenses. This will give you liquid microscope objectives. Do not allow drops to spread over the surface of the disc. Bring the finished microscope to your eye with a liquid lens and point the tube towards the light source. Rays of light, passing through the hole in the disk and through the object in question, enter the eye. By rotating the bolt, you can move the lens disk closer or further from the subject in question and thereby achieve the best image sharpness. The degree of magnification can be changed by turning the objective dial and placing first one or the other lens against the object in question. The best magnification will be obtained by a drop lens placed in a hole of a smaller diameter. The aperture dial makes adjustments easy and gives the subject in question brightness and clarity. In the wind, on hot days, drops of water quickly evaporate, so new drops of water have to be released into the holes from time to time. Water can be replaced with pure glycerin.

S. Vetsrumb

and. Young Technician 1962, No. 8, pp. 74-75.

As you can see, a USB microscope from a web camera for soldering is quite easy to make from scrap materials within a few hours. For this will be needed:

• web camera;
• soldering iron with solder and flux;
• screwdrivers;
• tripod spare parts;
• LEDs, if they are not in the camera;
• glue or epoxy resin;
• program for broadcasting images to an LCD monitor.

This is the design of a homemade microscope from an SMD inspection chamber that can be obtained.

The following video is devoted to the principle of making a microscope from a webcam with your own hands. A tripod was used and a video of the soldering process of the USB connector is shown.

Microscope from a camera

To be honest, this “microscope” looks quite strange. The principle is the same as with a webcam - the optics are turned 180 degrees. There are even special ones for SLR cameras.

Below you can see the image obtained from such a homemade microscope for soldering. A large depth of field is visible - this is normal.

Disadvantages of a homemade microscope::

• short working distance;
• large dimensions;
• You need to come up with a way to mount the camera comfortably.

Advantages of a camera for soldering:

• can be made from an existing SLR camera;
• magnification is smoothly adjustable;
• there is autofocus.

Microscope from a mobile phone

The most popular way to make a microscope from a mobile phone with your own hands is to screw a lens from a CD or DVD player to the smartphone camera. This is the design of the microscope.

Lenses in this technique are used with a very short focal length. Therefore, using such a microscope, you can only monitor the state of soldering of SMD components and look in the solder. You simply cannot get a soldering iron between the board and the lens. Below is a video that shows what magnification such a homemade microscope gives.

Another option is a microscope for a mobile phone. This thing looks like this and costs just a penny.

In more advanced cases, a mobile phone is hung on an existing stereo or mono microscope for small details. I got some good pictures this way. This method is important when photomicrographs need to be taken for training or consultation with other artists.

4th place - USB microscope for soldering

Chinese USB microscopes are now popular, essentially made from web cameras on and or even with a built-in monitor, for example USB microscopes and. Such electron microscopes are more intended for visual diagnostics of electronics, video inspection of soldering quality, or, for example, for checking the sharpness of knives.

Let me remind you that the video signal delay in such microscopes is significant. With a built-in monitor it is much easier to solder, but there is no depth of field and three-dimensional perception of micro-objects.

Disadvantages of a USB microscope:

• temporary lags that do not allow quick soldering;
• low optical resolution;
• lack of volumetric perception;
• As a rule, this is a stationary option, connected to a computer or outlet.

Advantages of a USB microscope:

• the ability to work at a comfortable eye distance;
• you can take videos and photos;
• relatively low cost;
• low weight and dimensions;
• You can easily look at the board at an angle.

Reviews about them are quite good. Both of them are certainly not role models, but they look impressive. The image quality is good, the working distance is 100 or 200 mm depending on the attachments. These microscopes can be used for soldering with proper setup and care.

See the mini-review in the video, the image through the lens is shown at the 9th minute.

2nd place - imported microscope for soldering

Among foreign brands, Carl Zeiss, Reichers, Tamron, Leica, Olympus, Nikon are famous for microscope equipment. Models such as Nikon SMZ-1, Olympus VMZ, Leica GZ6, Olympus SZ3060, Olympus SZ4045ESD, Nikon SMZ-645 have rightfully earned the title of folk binocular microscopes for soldering for their image quality. Below are approximate prices for popular foreign models:

• Leica s6e/s4e (7-40x) 110 mm - $1300;
• Leica GZ6 (7x-40x) 110 mm - $900;
• Olympus sz4045 (6.7x-40x) 110 mm - $500;
• Olympus VMZ 1-4x 10x 90 mm - $500;
• Nikon SMZ-645 (8x-50x) 115 mm - $800;
• Nikon SMZ-1 (7x-30x) 100 mm - $400;
• good Nikon SMZ-10a - $1500.

In principle, the prices are not astronomical, but these are used microscopes that can be bought on eBay or Amazon with paid delivery. The benefit here needs to be considered in each particular case separately.

1st place - domestic microscope for soldering

Among truly domestic microscopes, it is well known LOMO and they make applied microscopes under the SME brand. The most suitable new microscopes for soldering are MSP-1 option 23 or . True, their price tag is not childish.

I have to say that Altami, Biomed, Microhoney, Levenhuk- all these are domestic sellers of Chinese microscopes. Many people complain about the quality of workmanship. We do not consider them for professional use. True, there are tolerable specimens. This depends on the conditions of transportation and storage. The fact is that their optics are adjusted using silicone glue with appropriate reliability.

From old stocks or used, truly Soviet ones can be taken on Avito:

• BM-51-2 8.75x 140 mm - 5 thousand rubles. play around;
• MBS-1 (MBS-2) 3x-100x 65 mm - up to 20 thousand rubles;
• MBS-9 3x-100x 65 mm - up to 20 thousand rubles;
• OGME-P3 3x-100x 65/190mm - up to 20 thousand rubles. (I have one at work, I like it);
• MBS-10 3x-100x 95 mm— up to 30 thousand rubles;
• BMI-1Ts 45x 200 mm - more than 200 thousand rubles. - measuring.

Results of the microscope rating

If you are still thinking about which microscope to choose for soldering, then my winner is MBS-10- the people's choice for many years now.

Rating of microscopes by purpose

Microscope for mobile phone repair

The following microscopes for soldering and repairing smartphones are sorted by increasing image quality:

• MBS-10 (low contrast, unrealistic colors at high magnifications, discrete switching of magnifications, 90 mm distance);
• MBS-9 (65 mm distance and low contrast);
• Nikon SMZ-2b/2t 10cm (8x-50x)/(10-63x);
• Nikon SMZ-645 (8x-50x) 115 mm;
• Leica s6e/s4e (7-40x) 110 mm;
• Olympus sz61 (7-45x) 110 mm;
• Leica GZ6 (7x-40x) 110 mm;
• Olympus sz4045 (6.7x-40x) 110 mm;
• Olympus VMZ 1-4x 10x with a working distance of 90 mm;
• Olympus sz3060 (9x-40x) 110 mm;
• Nikon SMZ-1 (7x-30x) 100 mm;
• Bausch and Lomb StereoZoom 7 (working distance only 77 mm);
• Leica StereoZoom 7;
• Nikon SMZ-10a with Nikon Plan ED 1x lens and 10x/23 mm eyepieces;
• Nikon SMZ-U (7.5x-75x) working distance with Nikon Plan ED 1x 85 mm, with original 10x/24 mm eyepieces.

Microscope for repairing tablets and motherboards

For such applications, the issue of maximum resolution is not so important; magnifications of 7x-15x work there. They require a good universal tripod and a low minimum magnification. The following microscopes for soldering motherboards and tablets are sorted by degree of image quality magnification:

• Leica s4e/s6e (110mm) with 35mm field;
• Olympus sz4045/sz51/sz61 (110mm) with a field of 33 mm;
• Nikon SMZ-1 (100mm) with a field of 31.5 mm;
• Olympus sz4045;
• Olympus sz51/61;
• Leica s4e/s6e;
• Nikon SMZ-1.

Microscope for a jeweler or dental technician

The following microscopes for the dental technician or jeweler with a long working distance are sorted by degree of image quality improvement:

• Nikon SMZ-1 (7x-30x) with 10x/21 mm eyepieces;
• Leica GZ4 (7x-30x) 9 cm with 0.5x lens (19 cm);
• Olympus sz4045 150 mm;
• Nikon SMZ-10 150 mm.

Microscope for engraving

The following microscopes for engraving with a large depth of field are sorted in ascending order of image quality:

• Nikon SMZ-1;
• Olympus sz4045;
• Leica gz4.

How to check a used microscope when purchasing

Before purchasing a used microscope for soldering, it is easy to check (partially taken from this specialist):

• inspect frame microscope for scratches and impact marks. If there are signs of impact, the optics may be knocked off.
• check play of handles positioning - it should not exist.
• Mark a small dot on a piece of paper with a pencil or pen and check if the dot doubles at different magnifications.
• when turning the microscope adjustment knobs, listen for the presence crunch or slippage. If they are, the plastic gears may be broken and they are not sold separately.
• inspect the eyepieces for presence enlightenment. It is often scratched or erased due to improper care.
• rotate the eyepieces around their axis on a white background. If image artifacts are also spinning, then the problem is dirt on the eyepieces - that’s half the problem.
• if visible gray spots, faded image or dots, then the prism or auxiliary optics may be dirty. Sometimes a whitish coating, dust and even fungus are found on it.
• The most difficult thing in diagnosing a soldering microscope is to determine the weak ignorance vertically. If it is difficult for your eyes to adapt to the image in a couple of minutes, then it is better not to take such a microscope for soldering - it has severe misalignment. If, when soldering under a microscope, your eyes get tired within 30-60 minutes and your head starts to hurt, then this is weak ignorance. Slight differences in height between objects are difficult to determine when purchasing.
• inspect the spare parts, if available.

How to mount a microscope on your desktop

There are many ways to mount a soldering microscope to your workbench. Manufacturers solve these problems with the help of a barbell. They keep the microscope from falling and make it easy to position it relative to the board.

A homemade microscope stand or tripod is usually made from an old photographic enlarger or other available resources and parts.

But Master Sergei made a microscope stand for soldering microcircuits with his own hands from furniture tubes. It turned out well. See a video review of it below.

Master Sergei and Master Soldering worked on the material. In the comments write what microscopes you use for soldering microcircuits and how good they are.