Wooden flooring is environmentally friendly, warm and beautiful in appearance. After all, wood is a natural material that has a lot of useful qualities: low thermal conductivity, good sound insulation, beautiful texture. Wooden floors are easy to process and there is always the possibility of restoration if necessary. But in order for a wooden floor to serve for a long time, it is necessary to provide appropriate operating conditions. Proper waterproofing of a wooden floor is the main condition for its durability.

Wooden flooring can be of different types: parquet, plank, as well as flooring made of plywood, chipboard, fiberboard, OSB.

To protect the floor from the effects of water, film and penetrating materials are used, because wood has a porous structure and is capable of absorbing both moisture and liquid waterproofing materials. The goal of waterproofing materials is reliable and continuous protection. Seams, breaks and joints of waterproofing material are unacceptable, because if water gets in, the floor will simply rot. In places where the floor comes into contact with the wall, the waterproofing is not interrupted - a protective layer must be applied to a height of 30 cm from the floor.

Classification of floor waterproofing

pasting;
painting;
impregnating;
cast.

Pasted waterproofing of a wooden floor with a foil surface

Pasting waterproofing materials

Pasted waterproofing is a so-called “carpet” consisting of several layers of bitumen-polymer, polymer, and bitumen materials.

Before applying the material, preliminary priming of the surface is required.

Painting waterproofing is simple and affordable

Painted waterproofing involves applying several layers of bitumen or polymer varnishes to a wooden floor. This method is accessible and easy to implement, but has a significant drawback - at low temperatures in the room, cracks appear in the protective layer. Painted waterproofing is short-lived; even at normal temperatures, it gradually loses its beneficial properties and requires updating every 5-6 years.

Painted waterproofing “closes” the pores of wood, preventing the penetration of moisture

Protecting wood with impregnation

Wood is a porous material. To give the material greater density, it is impregnated with special binders. Traditional materials - drying oil, tar or modern ones - based on silicone, acrylic, synthetic resins can be used as impregnation. The difficulty is that such impregnations must be applied to a completely dry base. This method of waterproofing is called impregnation.

The cast method is a reliable barrier to water

The cost of cast waterproofing is high, and the technical execution is also complex. But it is the high-quality execution of cast waterproofing that will protect a wooden floor from many problems for a long time. Let's take a closer look at the technology for creating cast waterproofing.

Cast floor waterproofing is an expensive but most effective method

A layer of sheet or roll waterproofing (roofing felt, hydroglass insulation, or other waterproofing materials reinforced with polyester or fiberglass) is laid on a primed and properly prepared base. Sheet or roll waterproofing can be fused using a gas torch or glued using a cold method. After installing the waterproofing, the floor is screeded with cement mortar with the addition of liquid glass. The screed is reinforced with metal mesh. The surface thus obtained is covered with an additional layer of waterproofing - based on a waterproof cement composition. For additional strength (the waterproofing layer is extremely unstable to abrasion), after drying, a special underlay should be spread on the surface under the wooden floor.

Waterproofing a floor in a wooden house

Protecting wood from the harmful effects of moisture in a wooden house is the most important issue; take full responsibility for the choice of waterproofing material and the quality of the work. If a wooden house does not have a basement, then roofing felt or roofing felt can be used as a waterproofing material; it is laid between the wood and the concrete foundation.

When a wooden house is installed on a foundation with a basement, it is important to ensure its reliable waterproofing even when laying the foundation. Foundation waterproofing is aimed at preventing the penetration of moisture from the soil.

How to protect your foundation

Foundation waterproofing will protect the foundation and floor from groundwater

For this purpose, the outside of the concrete foundation is covered with waterproofing materials - liquid or film. In this case, the basement will be dry, one less source of moisture for the wooden floor.

The front surface of the parquet board or laminate is already protected from exposure to water; additional waterproofing is not required. But if you are going to lay a plank floor or a floor made of wood boards, additional waterproofing is required. There must be an air space between the floor and the foundation (so that the floor is warm). The floor is made of wood boards and plank floors laid on joists. Naturally, the space between the foundation and the floor must be dry to avoid infection of the wood by fungi and mold. Waterproofing the foundation is a prerequisite for reliably insulating the wooden covering from moisture.

Depending on the purpose, a distinction is made between anti-filtration waterproofing of the foundation (protection from groundwater) and anti-corrosion waterproofing. Anti-filtration waterproofing is suitable for basements, as well as for rooms with high levels of moisture aggressiveness, as well as increased pressure load. Anti-corrosion insulation of the foundation is necessarily used in all other cases. Depending on the material used, it can be pasted, backfilled, impregnated, plastered or mounted. Any of the above methods can protect the foundation from the inside.

Waterproofing floors on joists

In cases where waterproofing a horizontal surface is impossible and the floor is installed “on the ground,” brick columns for the logs should be built on the soil. To protect the logs from moisture, you need to lay pieces of roofing felt, roofing felt or polyethylene on top (make sure they are 4 cm larger than the size of the posts). The voids are filled with gravel impregnated with bitumen and compacted thoroughly.

Next comes the installation of logs (a wooden structure intended for laying plank floors or floors made of wood boards). Important! - The logs must be thoroughly dried (humidity no more than 12%) and treated with an antiseptic. During work on laying wooden floors, the room temperature should not be lower than +7 0 C, and the air humidity should not exceed 50-60%. When the air humidity is high, the wooden covering can become deformed - “swell”, and when the air humidity is low, the wood tends to dry out and cracks can form on the surface.

The installation of the joists is followed by the installation of the wooden floor. But first you need to take care of the waterproofing of the tree.

You can use polymer or bitumen varnish (the simplest and most economical method). Dissolved bitumen has a useful property - it lays on the tree as a continuous membrane, which is capable of contracting and expanding during seasonal deformations. The method of applying bitumen or polymer varnish is simple: using painting tools - rollers, flute brushes, spray guns. The resulting protective layer, in addition to its strength and water-repellent properties, also has heat-insulating properties, which is important.

Primer varnishes give a certain shade to the wood, improve the permeability between the parquet varnish layer and the wooden surface, and also serve as waterproofing for the wooden floor. Impregnation of the upper layers of wood fibers with a primer varnish promotes bonding of the fibers, which gives the wooden floor additional impact resistance. Various wood stains, in addition to adding richness and clarity of color, also help protect the surface from moisture. Parquet varnishes also serve as additional waterproofing, in addition to their decorative functions. Typically, several layers of varnish provide a dense, waterproof shell.

After watching the video, you can verify the effective operation of the water repellent used to protect lumber:

Wood is a material very sensitive to changes in microclimate, especially sensitive to temperature changes, as well as to changes in room humidity. The point is not only in the possible deformation of the material: damp wood is a favorable environment for the development of mold and fungi, which cause various chronic diseases and allergic reactions in the inhabitants of the house. To prevent an unpleasant prospect, it is important to properly organize a set of measures to protect the wooden floor from moisture.

Selecting materials and learning how to waterproof a wooden floor

Very sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity in the room. And the point here is not only the possibility of deformation of wooden lumber: mold fungi can actively develop in damp wood, which can cause allergies and various diseases in the residents of the house. To prevent this unpleasant prospect, properly organized protection from moisture through waterproofing is important.

Characteristics and types of waterproofing

Waterproofing is a set of measures to protect structural elements from moisture, in our case, a wooden floor - supports, joists and the board floorboards themselves or other wooden ones (fibreboard, chipboard, OSB, parquet, etc.). Based on our daily life experience, we understand that during operation, moisture constantly affects the wooden floor covering from the inside of the room, at least with regular wet cleaning.

Therefore, the outer surface of floor coverings must be protected from its influence, i.e. waterproof.

The following types of floor coverings are used to protect floor coverings from moisture:

painting waterproofing;
wood impregnation.

Painting waterproofing

Waterproofing floors using painting is the most affordable and common.

Before painting and sanding.
Then they are primed with bitumen mastic and allowed to dry for at least a day.
After the primer has dried, apply a layer of floor enamel evenly over the entire surface using a brush or roller.
As a rule, good results are not achieved in one go. Therefore, when the enamel has dried, you need to paint the base of the floor again.

In addition to traditional floor enamels, polymer or bitumen varnish is also used to waterproof the floor covering. Dissolved bitumen has a useful property - it lies on the floor in the form of a continuous membrane that can follow the thermal deformations of the floor without destruction. Apply bitumen or polymer varnish (rubber-bitumen) to a pre-sanded, degreased and dried floor using painting tools (rollers, flat brushes, spray guns).

By applying several layers of varnish, wooden parquet not only looks beautiful, but is also endowed with protective water-repellent properties.

The disadvantages of this method include the fragility of the waterproof layer. Over time, it becomes less elastic (especially due to temperature changes) and brittle, and cracks and chips appear on its surface.

After 5-6 years, the paint layer will require restoration.

Wood impregnation

Wood is a porous material. To give it greater density and water-repellent properties, it is impregnated with special binders. As impregnation, either traditional drying oil and tar are used, or modern compositions based on acrylic, silicone, and synthetic resins. An example of them is the water repellent "Aquasil".

However, if there are gaps between the floorboards, impregnation does not help.

Waterproofing floors on joists

If the wooden floor is laid on logs supported on supports (for example, on brick pillars) buried in the ground, then two layers of roofing felt (roofing felt) are laid on them, glued to the posts using bitumen mastic, which is also applied between the layers of roofing felt.

If they are laid directly on a concrete floor, then a waterproofing polyethylene film (reinforced) should be laid under them.

Plaster waterproofing

Its basis is a dry mixture that is mixed with water. The result is a solution that is applied to the surface with a brush or wide spatula.

The number of layers of waterproofing plaster applied is determined by the purpose of the room and can be from one to three.

Remember that all subsequent layers are applied across the previous one.

Rolled (papered) waterproofing

It is made using rolled materials based on fiberglass (fiberglass) coated with layers of bitumen modified with polymer additives.

Fusing (using a torch) or gluing roll waterproofing is done on a base primed with bitumen mastic (emulsion). To achieve the required waterproofing effect, the material is glued in several overlapping layers.

Self-leveling floor on a wooden base (video)

Cast waterproofing

This is the most expensive, but most reliable of all waterproofing methods. It is made hot with bitumen or pitch.

Before pouring it, the base is cleaned, all cracks are sealed, and the surface is primed.
Formwork is constructed along the perimeter of the room.
After heating the material, fill the entire surface with it, level it with a metal notched trowel and leave until it hardens.
If necessary, pour several layers.

Backfill waterproofing

For it, loose bentonite is used, filling the base area of the floor.

Interacting with water, bentonite forms a waterproof gel, which also has thermal insulating properties. Before filling the bentonite, formwork is made along the perimeter of the room, the surface is cleaned and dried. After that, bentonite is poured in, carefully leveled and compacted.

Waterproofing a wooden floor is a critical technological operation when installing floors. The microclimate in the room and the well-being of the residents largely depend on it. Therefore, never neglect this operation when installing wooden flooring yourself.

Waterproofing a bathroom floor (video)

Wood is a traditional building material that is still widely used among developers today.

Along with numerous advantages, lumber has several significant disadvantages.

For ordinary residential premises, these shortcomings of wood are not of decisive importance; many years of practical construction experience have made it possible to develop effective means of leveling out the problematic performance indicators of wood.

But this does not apply to bathrooms; they began to be built in wooden residential buildings only recently. Previously, separate baths were installed for hygienic purposes; the requirements for them were not as stringent as for bathrooms in residential buildings. Modern technologies for the production of building materials have made it possible to create very effective methods of waterproofing wooden floors. Such materials should only be used in bathrooms; these are the rooms that have long-term direct contact with water. Reliable protection of wooden architectural elements increases the service life of bathrooms and prevents damage to lumber by various microorganisms.

A wide range of materials have been created for waterproofing, differing in chemical composition and method of application. Which of them are used for finishing wooden structures?

Table. Types of waterproofing for wooden floors.

Type of waterproofing	Brief technical specifications
	One or several layers of material with a total thickness of up to 3 mm are applied to the surface of the wooden floor. Coating waterproofing is made from modified bitumen or synthetic resins. Application is allowed only at positive temperatures of the base and ambient air; surfaces must be clean and dry.
	Universal type, characterized by the highest reliability. Waterproofing can be applied to a self-adhesive layer or special mastics. The main requirement is that the floor must be smooth and dry. In some cases, two layers of glued waterproofing are used. For wooden floors it is considered the best option - it protects cracks from moisture penetration.
	It ranks last in terms of reliability. It is made on the basis of polymer fillers of special paints. Can be one- or two-component. Sometimes used as a finishing floor covering in living rooms and kitchens.

Professional builders recommend using laminated (roll) waterproofing to seal floors made of natural boards. Floors made of plywood, OSB and chipboard can be finished with all types of the above materials.

Important! Before waterproofing wooden floors, they must be treated with antiseptics. The specific brand does not matter, they all perform their functions very effectively.

General tips for applying waterproofing to wood floors

Such general requirements indicate that waterproofing should be used only as a last resort and if no other methods of solving the problem exist.

Step-by-step instructions for waterproofing wooden floors with rolled materials

Construction speed is one of the most important factors that developers pay attention to. Rolled waterproofing is completely installed within one day, and the next day you can continue work on arranging the floors in the bathroom. In addition, this type of waterproofing can be used under any finishing floor coverings, from ceramic tiles to moisture-resistant laminate. The reliability and durability of the layer depend on the exact implementation of the recommendations. We will consider the option of self-adhesive insulation; the technology does not require heating of surfaces. Such roll materials can be used for waterproofing wooden floors.

Step 1. Prepare the floor surface. The boards must be dry, level, clean and undamaged. Dust, dirt and oil stains on the surface significantly reduce adhesion, which has a very negative impact on the reliability of protection. It is advisable to not only sweep the room, but also vacuum it with a powerful construction vacuum cleaner.

The lumber must have a balanced relative humidity; for this, it needs to stand in the room for at least one week after laying. During this time, the tree either gives off excess moisture or absorbs the missing one.

Step 2. Prime the floor. The bitumen primer is made on the basis of modified bitumen and is used to increase the adhesion coefficient between the roll coating and the wooden floor; in addition, it provides waterproofing. It is better to buy ready-to-use material. The primer is applied with a brush or roller; special attention should be paid to the junction of the floor and walls. This is where moisture most often accumulates in the bathroom, which requires increased reliability of waterproofing. The walls are also coated with a primer to a height of approximately 10 cm; specific values are taken taking into account the architectural features of the room and the planned list of plumbing equipment.

Important! You can work with the primer only at positive temperatures. Safety precautions require effective ventilation of the room. It is recommended to use personal protective equipment for hands and respiratory organs.

If in some areas the primer has absorbed into the boards very quickly, it is recommended to re-treat them. Further work can be continued only after the primer has completely dried. Depending on the temperature and type of solvent, drying time can range from two to ten hours.

Practical advice! There are two types of primers available: water-based and chemical solvent-based. For wooden floors, it is recommended to use materials containing a chemical solvent. There is no need to be afraid that such compounds may harm the health of residents. After complete drying and covering the floor with rolls, no evaporation is detected in the air.

Step 3. Start laying the waterproofing material. There is no need to take a long break; the fresher the primer surface, the higher the adhesion rates. How is waterproofing installed?

Practical advice! Do not rush to roll out the roll right away; inexperienced builders may have it skewed. To control the position, you can mark several parallel lines on the floor; the distance between them should be equal to the width of the roll minus the overlap.

Glue the material to the walls very carefully, pressing the joints firmly. If there are concerns about the reliability of gluing the overlaps, then before joining them, the surfaces can be coated with a special mastic; buy it from the same manufacturer as self-adhesive waterproofing membranes.

Waterproofing the room should begin at the farthest wall and gradually move towards the doorway.

There is another method of gluing rolls; it consists of two stages. On the first one, only horizontal membranes are glued without bending to the walls, and on the second, the walls are glued over. This option is a little simpler to implement, but in terms of waterproofing reliability it is inferior to the one described above. Decide for yourself what to choose; there is no clear answer to this question.

Any finishing coating can be applied to roll waterproofing, but under one condition – load-bearing architectural elements are designed to withstand a significant increase in load. You should think about this even during the design of a wooden floor or at the stage of preparatory repair work. And one last thing. Walk on the membrane surface only in soft shoes with flat soles.

Waterproofing a wooden floor with mastics

A less acceptable option for waterproofing wooden floors. What stages does it consist of?

Surface preparation

In addition to cleaning and repair work, measures must be taken to prevent moisture from entering the cracks between wooden floor coverings. To do this, it is recommended to use plastic polymer sealants. They are sold in tubes; to fill the cracks you need to use special guns.

Step 1. Thoroughly clean the cracks from dust and dry the floor. Dust and moisture are the main enemies of any sealants and waterproofing materials; they significantly reduce the adhesion of surfaces. You can clean the cracks with any available objects of suitable size. After removing dirt, each crack should be thoroughly vacuumed.

Step 2. Buy sealant. Experienced builders recommend purchasing deck sealants; these are the best materials available on the domestic market. You shouldn’t save money; simple waterproofing materials only have good qualities in manufacturers’ advertising brochures. After two to three years of use, they peel off and begin to leak water. But this is not all the problems. When peeling, the sealant may swell a little; you will have to completely remove it and apply a new one.

Carefully read the instructions for using the material and be sure to follow all the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Step 3. Cut off the plastic tip of the gun. The width of the free part of the spout should be slightly larger than the size of the cracks, this will improve and simplify the process of filling them with sealant. The cutting angle is approximately 30°, choose the most convenient one for yourself.

Important! The cracks should be filled with sealant throughout their entire depth. If necessary, you can go through one place several times.

What parts does a sealant gun consist of and how to work with it? A typical manual sealant gun is assembled from the following elements:

frame;
stock;
trigger;
pen.

A cartridge or tube with sealant is inserted into the body; the trigger on the handle, when pressed, sets the rod in motion. There is a large washer on the rod, the diameter of the piston in the tube; it rests against the piston and gives it forward motion. As a result, the pressure in the tube increases and the mass is squeezed out of the spout. All models have a special mechanism for instant pressure release. It is needed to ensure that the sealant does not spontaneously squeeze out of the tube during a technological break.

The tube closes hermetically, which increases the shelf life of the material; before starting work, the tip should be cut off with a knife. The tip has a thread for screwing in the spout. Cut off the spout following the above recommendations and screw it onto the tube. To prevent the sealant from drying out, cover the tip of the spout with a special cap. The tool is fully prepared for use.

Now move the gun piston to its rearmost position. To do this, you need to press the limiting mechanism and pull the rod until it stops against the body. Insert the tube with sealant into the body and move the rod forward with the handle until it reaches the piston of the tube. The gun is ready.

Step 4. Carefully seal the floorboards along the cracks with masking tape.

Step 5. Remove the protective cap, place the cut nose against the slot and smoothly move the gun while pressing the trigger. Try not to stop, each stop can cause a leaky seam to form. The amount of material squeezed out and the speed of the gun depend on the width and depth of the slot. Don’t be discouraged if you don’t have any experience; first practice on the most inconspicuous area of the floor or unnecessary pieces of boards. In a few minutes you will have practical skills, the seam will turn out smooth from the first pass, and the gap will be filled to its entire depth.

Step 5. Use a metal spatula to remove excess sealant and remove the tape. Allow time for complete hardening, after which you can begin finishing with special paints. For waterproofing, you need to buy waterproof compounds based on polymer or acrylic.

There are cases when the gaps throughout the floor are approximately the same width. They arise due to the use of wet boards for flooring; this is a gross defect of the builders. If you have such a situation, then there is a simple and original way out. Recently, so-called deck floors have come into fashion.

Their main difference is the dark stripes between the floor boards. Modern materials and technologies make it possible to simultaneously waterproof and create a unique coating.

Buy sealant in a dark, contrasting color; black will do. Please note that it has high waterproofing properties.
Fill the seams with it. While the material is still wet, remove excess with a spatula.
After complete hardening, sand the floor with special sanding machines. Clean the surface from dust.
Coat the wood floor with a waterproof interior varnish. It must be coated at least twice; the varnish must be specifically for wooden floors. Such materials have a fairly high ductility, which prevents the appearance of cracks on the floor due to changes in the linear dimensions of the wood.

A simple and fairly cheap technology makes it possible to have a waterproofed wooden floor in a designer design.

Waterproofing with mastic

This method is recommended for use on wooden floors made of plywood or OSB. The floor surfaces are coated with mastic, special tapes are applied to the cracks and re-treated. If you do not have a special tape, you can use a fine plaster polymer mesh. It will have to be covered with mastic until all the cells are covered with the material.

The mastic is prepared according to the attached instructions; a roller can be used for the work; hard-to-reach places can be treated with a brush. To increase reliability, it is recommended to apply two layers. After the mastic has hardened, a finishing coating can be laid on the subfloor.

Prices for popular brands of bitumen mastic

bitumen mastic

Video - Waterproofing a wooden floor with rolled materials

Waterproofing the floor in a wooden house is an indispensable stage of floor installation. The quality of the insulating film directly affects the service life of wooden elements and insulation. Properly installed waterproofing material will protect the structure from fungi, mold and rot.

Preparatory measures

Laying a waterproofing layer is not the first stage in installing a floor covering. Before installing the film, the following measures must be taken:

base insulation;
arrangement of ventilation holes in the ceiling;
installation of vapor and waterproofing films on the floor of the first floor.

When choosing insulating materials for wooden floors, follow the following tips:

materials and coatings used on wooden structures should not be fire hazardous;
a gap must be left between the rough and finished floors for ventilation;
if the subfloor is made of concrete, the insulating materials must be impermeable to moisture (polyethylene, roofing felt and others);
for wooden floors, liquid waterproofing mixtures containing water-repellent substances and antiseptics are optimal;

Particular attention is paid to waterproofing the basement floors of the house (garages, bathhouses, basements). Grounded rooms are in constant contact with moisture. Therefore, if your house has basement floors, thoroughly waterproof them. The dryness of the floor on the first floor will depend on its quality.

Choosing high-quality waterproofing

Often waterproofing is chosen based on what kind of insulation is used during construction. In addition, the following factors influence the choice of insulation:

degree of humidity in the house;
the presence of a basement or subfloor;
subfloor material (wood or concrete);
type of insulation.

Waterproofing is indispensable in rooms with cotton wool and roll insulation. These materials quickly lose their insulating properties when in contact with moisture. Therefore, they need careful protection.

The following materials are suitable for insulating wooden structures:

waterproofing paints and mastics;
rubber-based fillings;
bulk materials;
roll and film insulation.

None of these materials can be called universal. Each of them is optimal for a narrow range of work.

Paints

Water-repellent paints are liquid compositions based on bitumen and polymers. The mixture has a liquid structure and is very easy to apply to the surface. To paint wood with waterproofing paint, use ordinary brushes. The composition is applied to the surface in 2-3 layers. Each subsequent one is applied when the previous one has dried. The paints are optimal for waterproofing screeded floors.

Such materials have a very affordable price. However, they have a short service life - 3-7 years (in temperate climates). Before applying water-repellent paint, you need to prepare the surface as follows:

sand the wooden floor elements;
remove dirt from the floor;
dry wood structures;
Treat complex elements and fasteners with water-repellent varnish;
paint the subfloor.

The products have an individual drying period. The time for complete hardening is indicated on the packaging.

Mastics

Waterproofing mastics are very similar to paints, but they have a thicker structure. After applying the mastic, an elastic, durable film is formed on the surface.

Pay attention! If you have never been involved in construction and do not have the appropriate knowledge, you can violate the technology of waterproofing the floor in a private house. Therefore, it is recommended to entrust such work to a professional. Some companies provide a guarantee for their services.

Mastics are a very dense composition that, after drying, protects the wood not only from moisture, but also from temperature changes. The material is applied to the floor before installing the finishing coating. When working with wooden structures, it is recommended to use glassine-based compounds.

Waterproofing mastics have the following advantages:

long drying time;
the dried material has a very flexible structure;
long service life (7-15 years);
various forms of release.

Mastics are used to insulate floors with screed. The main advantage of the material is its high resistance to low temperatures. Even in severe frosts, a mastic film will protect wooden structures from moisture.

Insulating fills

Jellied compositions are one of the few materials that can boast of versatility. They belong to the category of finishing materials.

The basis for filling is bitumen and asphalt concrete. The material is very easy to apply, so it is often used in waterproofing private houses.

Before pouring the material, you need to clean and level the working surface. After which the walls and floor are primed. On top, after the primer has dried, apply 2-3 layers of fill. For uniform distribution over the surface, use a needle roller. The thickness of the waterproofing layer should be 20-30 mm.

Most often the material is used on a concrete screed. Fillings are incompatible with floating floors and non-rigid frames, because unstable materials will lead to cracking of the protective layer.

Bulk materials

Bulk waterproofing is a powder or granular mass based on bentonite. The material is used for insulating pipes and communications.

In addition to waterproofing properties, backfills have high thermal insulation properties. Therefore, they are often used for similar purposes.

Before finishing the subfloor, bentonite is diluted with water until a gel forms. After absorbing the water, the material is poured onto the floor and left to dry. It takes approximately two to three days for the waterproofing to completely harden.

The material is convenient in that it is easy to pour it under the joists so that it reaches the very wooden floor.

Self-adhesive roll waterproofing materials

Roll materials have a very hard structure and perfectly protect structures from moisture. There are many varieties of such waterproofing. The most common are thermal fiber, bitumen and polyethylene materials. Recently, fiberglass has been actively used in construction.

It is increasingly rare to find waterproofing with bitumen additives on the market. The material is being actively replaced by synthetic materials and polymers. In addition to adhesive roll insulation, there are those that are heated and adhesive using a special composition.

Self-adhesive roll materials are considered the most convenient. They are very easy to install even if you are alone.

Adhesive roll materials are installed using glue or bitumen. When heated, the latter emits a harmful and unpleasant odor. Therefore, when working with it, you must use a respirator.

Vapor barrier for a wooden house

Measures to protect a wooden house include steam, hydro and thermal insulation. Only if the entire range of measures is followed will the wooden structures of the house and floors be unharmed.

An important element of this “pie” is the vapor barrier. It protects insulation and wooden structures from condensation, which often accumulates under the floor.

Vapor barrier films are a membrane with many micropores. It is thanks to them that the moisture that accumulates under the floor passes through the vapor barrier film and does not settle on wooden structures and insulation.

Pay attention! Vapor barrier films consist of a front and back surface. The material must be laid on the correct side, otherwise moisture will settle on the insulation and wood, which will lead to the rapid formation of rot and fungi.

Installation of vapor barrier

The floor is a very important structure of the house, through which, if the protective “pie” is installed incorrectly, a lot of heat can be removed. Vapor barrier, arranged according to all the rules of technology, will protect wooden floor structures for a long time. When installing films, the following rules should be observed:

The insulation cake includes several layers: steam, heat, and waterproofing. Only their close “neighborhood” prevents the destruction of the house and the settling of moisture under the floor. In addition to these three components, the floor covering includes:

wooden frame;
rough flooring made of boards;
waterproofing film;
insulation;
vapor barrier layer;
air cushion;
clean floor covering.

Some designs require more thorough protection from moisture. Thus, waterproofing a wooden floor in a bathroom involves using 2-3 layers of insulating film or mastic.

Wooden houses are built on any type of foundation, with the exception of columnar foundations. Therefore, waterproofing the base is necessary for all buildings without exception. Before applying a protective compound or winding, you must:

Waterproofing floors and ceilings is not an easy procedure. To protect wooden structures from moisture and pests, an integrated approach is needed. Regular wrapping with waterproofing film will not be enough. A floor protection cake must include all components, including a vapor barrier. There is no point in saving on these films, because often the cause of rot on joists is not moisture from the ground, but condensation that forms inside the ceiling.

An important, but not difficult task is to waterproof the wooden floor of the first floor with your own hands. There are several ways to reliably waterproof a wooden floor and thereby protect floors and walls from moisture, fungus, and rot. The choice of method to protect a wooden floor from moisture depends on the groundwater level in the area. Also, waterproofing methods depend on the design of the wooden floor. Let's consider laying the floor on support posts, on beams and on the ground and the necessary measures to protect the wooden floor from moisture.

Waterproofing of wooden floors on joists, on beams, on the ground

How to waterproof a wooden floor with your own hands, protecting it from environmental influences. Let's consider three types of floors:

floor laid on wooden joists supported by brick columns,
flooring, arranged on wooden beams,
floor laid on the ground.

If wooden floor on the first floor planned to be done on joists that rest on supports (for example, brick columns), then waterproofing must be done between the columns and joists. To protect the wooden floor from moisture, two layers of roofing felt or roofing felt are placed on brick or concrete supports. Roofing felt and roofing felt are glued to the post with bitumen mastic. Also, bitumen mastic is applied between layers of roofing felt and roofing felt.

A block with a thickness of 30 mm or more is placed on top, which is impregnated with your own hands with a composition that protects against water, mold, rot, etc. Floor joists, also impregnated with a water-repellent composition, are laid on the block. Floor joists must be laid strictly horizontally, so bars of different thicknesses are used, cut to the required level. You can cover the joists and auxiliary bars with a water-repellent compound yourself; it is sold in cans and canisters. You can coat the material with this product before construction begins and during the process of laying the wooden floor.

If the groundwater level is low, it is enough to waterproof between the columns and joists. In this case, it is enough to make the columns two bricks high. Waterproofing, a wooden block, floor joists and plank flooring, which can serve as a finished floor, are laid on the posts.

If the groundwater level is high, additional waterproofing is done for the columns at ground level, brick columns are built twice as high: four bricks high, a waterproofing layer and a wooden block are also laid on them, as mentioned above, then floor joists. It is advisable to make a wooden floor double (subfloor, insulation, finishing floor).

So, about the waterproofing of support columns at ground level. To reliably protect your wooden floor from moisture with your own hands, we recommend the following. A 50 mm thick layer of clay, crushed with water, is laid on the compacted soil under the entire house. Let the clay dry for a day. A layer of clay protects the wooden floor, walls and beams from fungus, mold and dampness. The base of the columns is filled with thin concrete with crushed stone in a layer 80-100 mm thick. To prevent the concrete from spreading, low formwork is made. Skinny concrete is simply made with your own hands: take cement and sand in a volume ratio of 1:7. The cement is thoroughly mixed with sand, then crushed stone of a coarse fraction from 40 mm is added and also mixed thoroughly. This mixture is poured into the clay and allowed to dry for three days. Then columns with a height of 400 mm are built.

If wooden floor on the first floor of a country house laid on beams, which rest only on the walls of the house, then this in itself is a reliable waterproofing of the floor. In this situation, with a high level of groundwater, we recommend making a high underground, with a height of 500 mm, providing good ventilation in it and making reliable waterproofing of the foundation. Then the wooden floor on the first floor of the country house will be reliably protected from moisture.

When laying super-hard fibreboard on a plank floor, to ensure waterproofing, the floor boards are laid tightly and evenly, and a slab with casein-cement glue or special mastic is glued onto them. Then, throughout the day, the slab is pressed evenly in several places with a heavy weight.

For wooden floor laid on the ground for concrete or asphalt preparation, waterproofing is also necessary. First, the fertile layer of soil is removed, the soil is compacted and crushed stone is tamped into it, poured with a layer of concrete, concrete with crushed stone or asphalt with a layer of 100 mm thick. Two layers of roofing felt or roofing felt on bitumen mastic are glued on top. A 50 mm thick layer of cement mortar is poured on top. You can make cement mortar with your own hands by taking grade 250 cement and sand in a volume ratio of 1:3, and grade 400 cement and sand in a volume ratio of 1:6; A minimal amount of water should be added. The resulting concrete screed is leveled by first marking the required level at several points throughout the entire pouring area.

To install a wooden floor, the concrete screed is coated with a layer of hot bitumen or bitumen mastic 10-20 mm thick. Fiberboard or plywood with a thickness of 10 mm or more can be laid on the mastic. The seams between the slabs are puttied. You can stick linoleum on the slabs, put carpet or laminate with a backing.

Floor tiles are laid on a concrete screed using cement mortar in a ratio of cement and sand of 1:2.

Do-it-yourself moisture-proofing of a wooden floor

In order to wash a wooden floor with water or a liquid product without worrying that moisture will penetrate into the ceiling, wet the insulation, etc., you should take care of its moisture resistance at the stage of constructing a wooden floor with your own hands.

To make a wood floor waterproof, it is best to choose floor boards that have a quarter joint or a tongue and groove joint. Connecting floorboards into tongue and groove gives the most snug fit of the boards and thus ensures better moisture resistance of the wooden floor.

Also, moisture penetration is prevented by a vapor barrier layer between the boardwalk and the finished floor.

Waterproofing wooden floors in the bathroom and bathhouse

Is it possible to install a bathroom in a house with wooden floors? How to properly make a wooden floor in a bathhouse? For this purpose, reliable waterproofing is done on the boardwalk. We recommend placing the bathroom on the ground floor.

Bath floor laid from boards connected into tongue and groove. The grooves are sealed with wood sealant. The sealant can be replaced with resinous tow. The floor is made single, without insulation, without a subfloor. The beams are left open. All wooden floor elements in the bathhouse are treated with maximum water-repellent impregnation before construction begins. Good ventilation is organized in the underground, which will prevent the formation of dampness.

Bathroom floor also laid from tongue and groove boards. Wood sealant is placed in the grooves. A waterproofing material, such as roofing felt, is laid on the wooden flooring. At the junction, the material is laid overlapping. The wooden floor beams under the bathroom are left open (without ceiling trim). Ventilation must be provided in the ceiling. All wooden floor and ceiling elements are treated with water-repellent impregnation.

The floor in the bathroom can be covered with linoleum, or it can be tiled.

Linoleum in the bathroom they are glued to waterproofing material laid on a plank flooring. Linoleum is laid in one piece so that there are no joining seams. The edges at the wall and threshold are bent upward by 40-50 mm. The edge of the linoleum is decorated with a plinth and a threshold strip.

If there is on the bathroom floor tiles, then we recommend the following design. First, waterproofing material is laid on the wooden flooring. It is covered with bitumen mastic, a layer up to 5 mm thick. A concrete screed is made on top and leveled. Then the tiles are laid.