After the main construction work is completed, and the house already has a completely complete appearance, the question arises about choosing a material for finishing the facade. Here it all comes down to financial capabilities and the idea of ​​beauty. However, there are also materials that are the most universal and which are advisable to use in most cases. One such material is metal siding.

What is metal siding

To better understand the installation process, you first need to understand what this finishing material is. This is a thin, galvanized, profiled metal plate coated with polymers to protect against corrosion. The front side of the panel is covered with an additional coloring layer for greater aesthetics. The sizes of metal siding panels presented on the construction market can vary significantly. The panels can be either small, a few tens of centimeters long, or huge, several meters long. The width of the panels also varies.

Material properties

Metal siding, as a material for exterior decoration of the facade of a house, has a number of positive performance qualities.

• Installation is simple. If you have certain basic knowledge and skills, almost anyone can carry out installation work.
• The material is very common and accessible. It can be found in most more or less large hardware stores.
• The panels are easy to transport. In most cases, you can do without using trucks.
• The material has such a positive quality as durability. The service life of a coating made from it is determined by several tens of years.
• The material is largely resistant to external influences, has the ability to resist mechanical loads and temperature changes from -50 to +50 degrees Celsius.
• Metal siding wall coverings provide good protection from wind and moisture.
• Among other things, the material has a very attractive appearance. Thanks to the variety of colors, it is possible to choose an option based on personal preferences.

The disadvantages inherent in this material include:

• Quite heavy weight. Despite the fact that individual metal siding panels cannot be subjectively called heavy, the total weight of the wall decoration turns out to be quite significant, which will put additional load on the foundation of the building.
• Susceptibility to corrosion. Despite the presence of protective layers, it is essentially a metallic material, which means it is prone to corrosion upon contact with moisture, therefore, when installing metal siding, care must be taken to avoid damaging the protective layers of the plates.

Stages of work

Installation work must be carried out in several stages.

1. Pre-preparation stage. Before starting work you need to prepare. This seemingly simple rule often, apparently due to its simplicity, remains unobserved, and as a result, one can observe not only temporary delays in the work process associated with waiting for additional supplies of material, but also rickety siding elements. Moreover, the problem of distortion arises literally after a few weeks due to the fact that the horizontal lines were not observed during installation. In this regard, everything must be carefully designed and calculated. For example, to roughly calculate the amount of materials, you need to divide the total area of ​​the walls by the area of ​​one panel. It is worth adding 10% to the result so that in case of adjustment to specific sizes there is a certain margin. When preparing to install siding, you need to remove all protruding elements of the old façade finishing, such as window sills or pendant lights.
2. Marking the walls. In order for the process to be carried out as efficiently as possible, surfaces should be marked. First you need to determine the lower and upper boundaries of the finish. To do this, it is best to use a water level and a tapping cord. Using a level, you need to mark two points in the same horizontal plane. After which they need to be connected to each other using a chop cord. After these edges have been drawn, you should mark the vertical lines and installation locations of the U-shaped fasteners along which the sheathing slats will be mounted. Marking the verticals can be done using a simple suspension, while maintaining the distance between the vertical lines, which should be 60 cm. The installation points of the fasteners for the slats are located strictly along these lines at the same distance from each other. It should also be mentioned that additional slats should be installed along the perimeter of window and door openings, which is taken into account when marking.
3. Installation of sheathing. This stage should begin with the installation of the starting guide. It must be installed along the bottom marking line, which, by the way, should be located 15 cm below the floor level of the room. After installing the starting guide, you can proceed to installing fasteners in the places indicated by the markings. Depending on the material of the walls, both ordinary self-tapping screws and dowels can be used for these purposes.
4. Fastening vertical slats. The next stage of work is the installation of vertical slats. It is worth saying that both wooden beams and metal profiles can be used for these purposes. The second option is more preferable due to its lighter weight and longer service life. These slats need to be secured along the lines, attaching them to the guides using self-tapping screws. You need to start installing the slats from the left corner of the wall, moving to the right. After installing two adjacent slats, you need to check using a regular building level - the slats must be in the same plane. Similarly, it is necessary to mount the rest of the sheathing.
5. Installation of metal siding. Once the sheathing is ready, you can proceed to the actual installation. The first panel is inserted with its lower edge into the starting guide. You need to start, as in the case of sheathing, from the left corner of the wall. To the right of the first siding panel, a second one is installed end-to-end, and so on along the entire wall. After the first row of panels is installed, you need to mount the second one above it. The second row of panels must be secured by screwing them to metal slats with self-tapping screws. For these purposes, special perforations are provided in the panels. Thus, from left to right and from bottom to top, all other panels must be installed. It is necessary to note that when installing the top row of panels and adjusting the panels to the corners, you will need to cut the panels, giving them the required dimensions and shape. For these purposes, you should use metal scissors or a hacksaw. The use of an angle grinder is not advisable due to the fact that during its operation the integrity of the protective layers applied to the panels is significantly compromised.

In conclusion of the above, we can only say that the main thing that must be strictly observed during installation work is safety precautions.

Some of the work will be carried out at some elevation from the ground, some will involve the use of sharp tools, so you should not neglect basic things like safety glasses or gloves.

Video

This short video shows the process of installing metal siding.

With the help of metal siding you can update any facade. The popularity and increased interest in coatings of this type are explained by their practicality and reliability. The material is resistant to weather disasters, fits into any landscape, and is easy and convenient to work with.

Installation of metal siding is a prefabricated method of finishing a façade. The technology is understandable, accessible and attractive with the opportunity to do the work yourself. To get started, just read the instructions and prepare everything you need for the façade cladding.

The amount of metal siding and necessary components is calculated in advance. There are special formulas for determining the required number of panels; you can find them in instructions or on the Internet. As for additional elements, their number will depend on the complexity of the structure’s configuration. Simple elements are installed after installation, complex elements are installed before the panels are attached.

The standard set of additional elements includes:

• Initial and final (U-shaped) planks;
• Corners (internal and external);
• Guides (starting and finishing);
• Docking strips;
• Connection elements.

Additional elements are responsible for the neatness of the facade. They can be of different shapes and configurations, their purpose is to hide defects and joints. In addition to additional components, you will need tools. DIY metal siding installation

This is done using a drill (or screwdriver) and self-tapping screws. The following items will be useful in your work: building level, tape measure, dowels, stepladder.

Be careful! When installing metal siding, do not forget about safety measures. Use a respirator and gloves. For work at height, you will need a rope and a mounting belt.

Facade cladding with metal siding. Installation instructions

The reliability of façade cladding largely depends on the quality of the material itself and proper installation. Russian-made metal siding is cheaper than foreign products, but the low cost does not affect its service life.

High quality at a competitive price is an attractive option, however, the choice of material is always determined by the preferences and financial capabilities of the consumer. Regardless of where the products are made, the question of how to install metal siding is more relevant for those who want to save on work. When doing installation yourself, it is important to follow the order of actions. You need to start by inspecting the wall surfaces and analyzing their condition.

Preparation of the grounds

After installing metal sheets, the load on load-bearing walls increases. The foundations must be prepared for this test. When inspecting wall surfaces, you must ensure their strength. There is no point in achieving perfect evenness. All differences will be hidden by the sheathing.

Before installing the panels, the facade is freed from anything that could interfere with the fastening. Remove remnants of previous coatings, all hanging and protruding elements, dirt and dust. Substrates must be clean, dry and compact. If these measures are neglected, the sheets may become deformed over time.

At the stage of preparation for installation, markings are applied. Fastening metal siding involves the use of brackets. To ensure uniformity of fasteners, their location must be marked. Typically, complex elements are installed at intervals of 55–60 cm.

Lathing

Correctly formed and installed sheathing affects the further installation of sheets and the external attractiveness of the sheathing. The frame ensures that the corners are square and the walls are vertical. Errors in installing the sheathing can lead to any defects and deviations being noticeable.

It is better to make the lathing from metal. Wooden blocks are cheaper, but they are susceptible to burning and rotting. If you choose this warrant, pay attention to the moisture content of the material; it should not be higher than 14%. It is recommended to treat wooden sheathing with antiseptic and fire retardant compounds. The steel frame is more practical and does not require additional processing.

The gap between the sheathing elements can be different, its size depends on the structural features and type of cladding panels. The standard step is from 300 to 500 mm.

The slats are mounted in corner areas, lower and upper edges and at wall joints.

When installed vertically, the slats are positioned horizontally. The most common practice is horizontal fastening with vertical slats. Using this technology, metal siding or shipboard is most often installed.

After the frame is made and installed, the brackets are installed according to the markings. The holes are formed using a drill; their diameter must correspond to the fastening elements.

Laying the heat insulator

The insulation is placed in the gaps of the sheathing. It is not recommended to fasten loose thermal insulation materials when installing metal siding. The masonry must be dense and without gaps, and deformation of the slabs must not be allowed. If a double layer of insulation is installed, the layers are connected with dowels. To prevent the formation of cold bridges, the joints are sealed.

Fastening profiles

The guides are attached to already installed brackets using self-tapping screws or rivets. It is important to control the connection density. The fit should be tight. Free movement of any of the profiles can lead to vibration and damage to the façade structure.

Installation of metal siding sheets

Installation work with panels begins from the bottom with a starting strip, which is the starting point and guideline for subsequent sheets. It is important to fix the initial panel as accurately as possible. Any deviation from the vertical will lead to curvature of the entire surface.

Regardless of the type of material (wood, eurobeam, log, stone, etc.), the technology for installing metal siding is no different. The sheets are attached to the mounted surface with self-tapping screws. Using locking devices, the panels are fixed to each other and then attached to the frame guides. All subsequent sheets are installed in the same way. Correct installation during installation is checked using a level. This way, possible distortions can be detected and corrected in a timely manner.

Important to know! Siding expands under the influence of temperatures. To avoid deformation and curvature, a gap is left between the panels.

Let's draw conclusions!

Cladding with metal siding is a universal method of facade finishing. When installing it yourself, use the instructions, diagrams and advice of professional craftsmen. If metal siding is fastened consistently and correctly, the durable coating will last a long time. The facade will be transformed, and the building will be protected and provided with thermal comfort.

Metal cutting.

It is necessary to cut metal siding, as well as corrugated sheets and metal tiles, with the following tools: a hacksaw, metal scissors, an electric saw with carbide teeth or other electric tools designed for cutting polymer-coated metal.

Cutting sheets of metal siding begins with the perforated edge.

Attention! It is prohibited to use an angle grinder (“grinder”) with an abrasive wheel to cut metal siding. Using a grinder leads to damage to the product!

Preparing the facade for installation of metal siding.

Before installing metal siding, you should carefully inspect the facade. Crumbling masonry and plasters must be tapped. It is also necessary to remove from the facade all climbing plants, drainage fastenings, roller shutters and other structures that interfere with the installation of the facade system. Using a building level, it is necessary to check the evenness of the walls and corners. If a difference of more than 2 cm per 10 lm is found on the wall, then such a wall must be leveled using lathing. As a result, the sheathing should be level and free from flaws. The next stage of preparation will be leveling the base or blind area and applying markings for installing the sheathing.

Installation of sheathing.

When constructing a facade from siding, a structure similar to a ventilated facade is created. This substructure provides air ventilation and keeps the walls of the house dry, extending their service life. The sheathing for metal siding can be made of wood (50×50 block) or using a metal ventilation purlin. The disadvantage of wooden sheathing is the moisture content of the wood (it is recommended to use a timber with a moisture content of no more than 12-14%, but in fact the moisture content of the timber sold is much higher). During operation, the tree dries out, shrinks, and rotates, which leads to a spoiled appearance of the entire façade of the building. Metal lathing is more stable in its characteristics, it will last longer and will not fail over time. The pitch of the sheathing is determined by the design of the building and often the width of the insulation that is embedded in this sheathing. But nevertheless, for metal siding, the lathing pitch varies from 400 mm to 1000 mm. (Provided that the pitch of the sheathing under vinyl siding should not be more than 600 mm). In the corners, around windows and doors, the sheathing is installed along the perimeter of the opening. Also, the sheathing must be installed at the junction of the panels.

Siding is mounted on a hard, flat surface. If this condition is not met, a leveling system must be used. It can be made of wood (timber with a thickness of at least 25 mm), but, taking into account the disadvantages of wood, a design consisting of galvanized leveling brackets and U-shaped profiles is more effective. There are two types of fastening possible:

1. Straight hangers are used as brackets, U-shaped profiles are used as guides (Fig. 1, Fig. 2)

Leveling brackets are attached to the existing wall with dowel nails (anchors) in increments of 1.0 m along the length of the U-shaped profile for horizontal installation of cladding panels and in increments of 0.75 m along the length of the U-shaped profile for vertical installation of cladding panels ( facade panels, siding).

When installing cladding panels horizontally, the U-shaped profile is secured using 4.2×16 self-tapping screws perpendicular to the direction of the panels:

• for siding after 0.6...0.8 m.
• for facade panels every 0.5...0.75 m.

When installing cladding panels vertically, the U-shaped profile is secured using 4.2×16 self-tapping screws horizontally and vertically.

1. Wall fastenings are used as brackets, and an L-shaped profile (corner) is used as guides. The thickness of the profile is determined by the designer. This type of lathing is recommended for use when installing cladding panels horizontally.

Marking the installation points of fastenings (brackets) is recommended horizontally 600 mm, vertically - 800 mm. The brackets are attached to the wall using dowels through a paronite gasket. If necessary, insulation is installed.

The L-shaped profile is attached to the brackets with D4 8×28 self-tapping screws.

Any of these designs allows you to install insulation if necessary.

Laying insulation.

Insulation performs the task of maintaining heat in the house during the cold season and preventing the room from heating up in the summer months. A properly insulated house does not lose energy in the winter and does not require air conditioning in the summer. It is important to prevent moisture from getting into the insulation - for this, a hydro-windproof anti-condensation membrane is installed, and the insulation is selected with the lowest moisture absorption coefficient. Installation of insulation begins from the bottom up. In this case, the lower slab rests either on the base of the house, or on a pre-mounted sheathing, if there is no base, so that the slabs do not slide down. The insulation must be fastened with special dowels. When working with insulation, be sure to wear gloves and safety glasses.

Installation of diffusion film.

It is necessary to install a protective diffusion film on top of the insulation. Depending on the type of film, it is mounted either directly on the insulation, or you will have to make a ventilation gap of 3-5 cm from the insulation. Consult with experts to avoid making mistakes.

When constructing a facade without insulation, the use of diffusion film is necessary!

Installation of additional elements.

First, a starting strip is mounted 40 mm above the desired level for starting installation of the siding panels. The next starting strip is mounted at a distance of 6 mm from the previous one. This will help avoid overlap during thermal expansion and the subsequent wave effect of the panels. A complex finishing strip is attached under the roof eaves. Next, complex corner strips are installed. From below, the corner strip is placed 6 mm below the starting one. The planks are fixed to the sheathing in increments of 200-400 mm. Simple corner strips are installed after installing the panels using self-tapping screws in increments of 200-400 mm. The next step is to install the complex docking strip. Having previously marked the surface, mark the joints of the panels. The upper edge of the joining strip is installed on the top line of the last siding panel, the lower edge protrudes 5-6 mm below the initial strip. Having secured the strip at the starting point, check its perpendicularity relative to the starting strip and fasten it. Then you need to install the strips around the window and door openings. You need to start from the bottom of the opening. Complex additional elements for openings are attached in increments of 300 mm. At the corner junction of additional elements, “ears” are cut out on them, which are folded onto the lower elements. When framing openings, simple corner strips can be used, which are installed after installing the panels. The spacing for fastening simple strips along window and door openings is 200 mm into the sheathing.

Installation of siding panels.

General rules for installing metal siding:

• Installation of panels should begin from the corner of the building.
• Before directly installing the panel, remove the protective film from it.
• It is necessary to leave a distance of 1-1.5 mm between the self-tapping screw and the panel, so that when heating and cooling, the siding can move freely, subject to, albeit a minimal, expansion-compression coefficient.
• When fastening, the self-tapping screws are screwed in without pre-drilling exactly in the center of the perforation provided in production. The panel is fastened into each batten with batten increments.
• When installing additional elements, a gap of 5-10 mm is left between the edge of the panel and the additional element to prevent deformation of the panel due to temperature changes.

Horizontal arrangement of siding panels.

In this case, installation is carried out from bottom to top. The initial strip, which provides the necessary fastening of the first siding panel, is installed along the lower edge of the cladding. For proper installation, it is necessary to use a level (of any type) to mark the wall along which the initial plank is installed.

Hook the first panel with the base onto the starting strip (Fig. 4), secure with self-tapping screws (in the case of wooden sheathing - nails) the upper edge of the panel, starting from its center. Before fastening, make sure that the panel is tightly gripped along its entire length. Install a self-tapping screw (nail) in the center of the perforation hole, but do not secure it tightly, leaving a gap of about 0.8 mm for possible thermal movement of the material.

All subsequent panels are hooked onto those already mounted (Fig. 4) and secured in the same way.

Be sure to check the horizontality of the mounted panels.

To avoid deformation due to thermal expansion, it is necessary to leave a gap of 6-9 mm between the end of the siding panel and the vertical components.

Depending on the situation, the starting element for a vertical siding arrangement can be: a starting strip, a fastening strip, corner strips, as well as slope strips. The starting element is leveled and secured in increments of 300 mm.

When securing the panel, install the topmost screw (nail) so that the panel hangs freely on it, then install all the others in the center of the holes (Fig. 5). Just as with horizontal installation, it is necessary to check the verticality of the panels, the completeness of the hook and leave gaps.

Installation of corners and strips.

Plumb set the outer and inner corners, secure in increments of 300 mm on both sides. In the same way, a strip strip is installed at the planned joints.

Then, when installing siding panels, fastening the panels to the corners and flashings must be done in each row.

Installation of door and window frames.

The framing of window and door openings can be: a complex finishing strip, a slope strip, a platband or a fastening strip. In some cases, external corners are used (85×85; 50×50; 30×30), which are installed on top of the installed siding. A window drainage system is usually installed on the windowsill.

When installing door and window frames, install the top parts first, then the side parts. After the siding is installed, a drainage system is installed.

Fasteners with a pitch of 300 mm.

If it is necessary to line the walls of the openings, it is better to do this before covering the walls.

First, try on the panel so that the edges protrude from both sides of the window opening. Then mark the width of the window on it, adding 6-10 mm. The resulting marks will show the locations of the vertical cuts.

Make a sample horizontal cut. To do this, reinforce a small piece of siding near the window and make marks on it 6 mm below the window sill on both sides of the window opening, since it is not certain that the window level is ideal.

Transfer the marks from the samples to the panel. After this, make the necessary cut.

Completion of installation.

When completing installation, it is necessary to frame the upper edge of the cladding. It can be done, depending on the situation, with an upper ebb, a fastening strip, an external corner (85×85; 50×50; 30×30) or other components.

Finishing a house with metal siding is usually used as a roofing method. Meanwhile, the operational and design advantages of this material allow it to be used as a universal facade cladding - reliable, beautiful and quickly erected.

Finishing a house with metal siding - the pros and cons of a comprehensive renovation

The repair advantages of siding are due to its layered structure and modern technologies in the production of such cladding:

• Ease. A square meter of facade siding weighs about 1-1.5 kilograms, which means not only ease of installation. Many facade walls will not physically withstand cladding with stone or other heavy panels - siding allows you to significantly save on strengthening the wall base;
• Strength and durability. Siding based on a steel sheet, coated with zinc and polymers, has the strength of steel, it is very resistant to atmospheric adversities and accidental mechanical shocks;
• Wide selection of colors and textures. Collections of large companies include metal siding for logs, the installation of which is relevant for walls, panels for roofs and plinths, elements for precise mating, and high-quality fastening fittings. Metal siding makes it possible to clad a house from the ridge of the roof to the drainage ditch according to a single design plan. Other materials will have to be combined, selected separately, purchased, installed, etc.;
• Cost-effectiveness and speed of repair procedures. Compared to natural wood or artificial stone, siding is several times cheaper. It can be installed on newly finished, so-called “fresh” walls, at any time of the year. The remains of the panels can be used as decorative inserts for interior decoration, so that there is almost no installation waste left;
• Possibility of finishing walls with fancy geometry. With a limited repair budget, there is often simply no other opportunity to veneer complex surfaces;
• Installation of metal siding is the installation of a ventilated facade. Internal installation gaps can be easily insulated without additional investments, or this procedure can be combined with insulation of walls from the inside. Thus, an attractive appearance will be combined with full thermal comfort of the entire house.

Of course, finishing a house with metal siding has its own characteristic “disadvantages”, but they are few. Firstly, this is the need for careful and labor-intensive installation of the frame. Secondly, the need for a large number of auxiliary materials - from initial profiles to fastening fittings, cornices and corners. Thirdly, with a lack of experience, a common mistake is inaccurate (uneven) cutting of siding panels - as a result, they are rejected, and new ones have to be used in place of the “inset”.

With the development of installation skills in working with siding, all the mentioned disadvantages are more than compensated for by the repair and design advantages of durable metallized cladding.

Metal siding under a log - installation of imitation solid wood

For a long time, sheets of metal siding were produced in the usual “flat” form. Relatively recently, three-dimensional structures have appeared that exactly repeat the structure of centuries-old log houses - geometrically, in texture and in color. This material is intended specifically for walls; there are no precedents for using logs for roofing work even in ancient Russian architecture. A log roof covering would be even less appropriate these days - but as a wall cladding, such a repair solution is distinguished by its versatility and practicality.

Durability of facade repairs according to the principle “Once and for all!” achievable only with siding based on metal sheets. Plaster has a service life of 5-8 years, cladding with natural/artificial stone - up to 15 years, With proper installation, metal siding will last up to 25 years without the slightest decrease in aesthetic appeal and operational reliability.

How to cover a house with metal siding - installation instructions

Like most repair procedures using a frame, at least 90% of the quality of all installation work depends on the accuracy of its installation.

How to cover a house with metal siding - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Calculation and preparation

It is necessary to measure all the walls (and the basement with the roof, if included in the cladding plans). It is best to take measurements from scaffolding - this way you can evaluate the strength of the wall base for metal siding. If the plaster from the wall is falling off in whole layers, if the masonry is loose, and the beams are cracked, decorating a rotten house with siding will not help, you will only waste money and effort.

For proper fastening reliability, the strength of the walls is necessary. If necessary, a mesh can be applied to individual areas, followed by plastering with cement mortar, or individual bricks or beams can be replaced. It is necessary to carry out such installation preparation several days before installing the siding panels - the cement must “set” well.

Step 2: Cleaning and marking

The entire wall surface is swept with a broom, layers of mortar, flaking paint, remnants of the previous generation of putty, etc. are removed from it. All foreign objects (nails, trim, other decorations, etc.) must be removed from the walls.

The basic fastening element for wall siding is a proprietary bracket.

They are screwed in vertical rows, with a distance between each row of 50-70 cm and the same clearance. To fasten the brackets to the walls, use long (at least 50 mm) self-tapping screws. Vertical marking lines must be applied strictly according to the level, drawing even grooves on the walls. As a result, the house will be “lined” with vertical stripes for future fasteners.

Step 3: Mount the frame

A huge advantage of branded brackets is justifiably considered to be their adjustability in height (that is, distance from the wall). After installing the vertical rows of brackets, T-shaped strips are screwed to them. It is important to use metal T-bars, not wood! Saving on this fittings will lead to unreliability and a short service life of the entire cladding. Bolted (that is, collapsible) fastening of metal frame strips is preferable.

T-shaped metal strips can be fitted to the brackets using pre-punched mounting holes. However, the size of this adjustment is small, it is only a few centimeters. The frame is measured using a long (up to 2 meters) and precise level. If any part sticks out or is recessed, the brackets are reinstalled. Auxiliary planks are placed under them or the wall is cut down. The main task is to ensure that the T-shaped metal strips are completely plumb and parallel to each other.

Step 4: We complete the installation of the frame and insulate the walls

After precise installation of the T-shaped moldings, fastening strips under the siding itself are screwed to them using short self-tapping screws. It is important to maintain consistency of size between the fastening strips, with an accuracy of a few millimeters. Otherwise, the configuration of the metal siding will shift, and the entire structure will soon deform.

Before covering a house with metal siding, it is necessary to decide on the insulation and type of wall insulation. Any type of thermal insulation is installed under the metal sheathing - from rolled polymer to the usual polystyrene foam. It is important to leave a gap between the insulation and the back of the frame in order to maintain internal ventilation of the facade.

Step 5: Finish siding

With high-quality and durable installation of the frame, siding panels are installed quickly and easily. Work starts from the bottom up and goes all the way to the roof. It is convenient to cut metal siding with a sharp hacksaw. The joining of individual strips is carried out using special joining strips or overlapping; the first option is more reliable in the long term.

Short self-tapping screws for facade fastening are assembled with rubberized washers - they seal the holes and take into account the thermal expansion of the metal. Taking into account the large number of screws used (the installation pitch is from 12 to 18 cm), it is necessary to stock up on a screwdriver - manual installation of siding with an area of ​​\u200b\u200b10 m2 will lead to calluses from a screwdriver on the most tired hands. Corners and joints are covered with decorative strips last, when the entire surface has already been tiled.

Houses made of brick, timber and gas blocks require finishing decorative finishing. Sometimes such finishing also performs protective functions, as is the case with cellular concrete, which needs protection from moisture. A high-quality, durable and beautiful finish can be obtained by covering a house with siding. In our article we will talk about metal siding. Installing metal siding is quite simple and quick, so you can handle this task yourself if you know some of the nuances and tricks.

Features and structure of the material

Metal siding, unlike its vinyl counterpart, has a slightly different structure. It consists of the following layers:

• The basis of the material is galvanized stamped steel, and the sheet thickness is approximately 0.7 mm;
• the steel is coated with a special coating that protects the material from oxidation and corrosion;
• then comes the primer layer;
• a polymer coating is attached on top of it, which performs decorative functions (externally, the panel can imitate the texture of stone, wood (house block) or simply be colored);
• To obtain a matte or glossy surface, a layer of varnish is applied on top of the polymer coating.

Important: the protective and primer layers are applied to the panel on both sides, and the decorative polymer coating is attached only to the front side. On the back side the panel is simply painted over a primer layer.

On sale you can find siding that imitates logs and house blocks; there are also panels for shiplap. All these elements are successfully used for cladding residential buildings, commercial and industrial buildings.

Three types of panels are available:

• smooth elements;
• perforated;
• curly.

Each product is provided with a fastening strip, which has holes for installing fasteners. In addition to this strip, the panel has additional locks for mounting fasteners. Siding can be installed vertically or horizontally depending on your preferences.

Advantages of metal siding

It is beneficial to install metal panels on your home due to the many advantages of this finishing material:

1. Installation of metal siding is quick and easy, so you can do this work yourself. For installation you do not need special devices and construction equipment.
2. Metal siding can withstand temperatures from -50°C to +80°C, so panels can be installed at any time of the year. This material is resistant to temperature changes, it does not deform, and its appearance does not deteriorate.
3. The material is considered environmentally friendly.
4. Durability.
5. You can put insulation under the panels and thereby increase the comfort of living in the house.
6. Using metal siding you can create a ventilated façade. This will help improve the thermal insulation characteristics of the walls and eliminate mold and condensation.
7. The material is resistant to corrosion. It can easily withstand any weather changes. He is also not afraid of chemical exposure.
8. During the installation process, all fasteners are completely hidden, so it feels like the house is made of logs.
9. High fire safety of the material.
10. Reasonable price.

Before installing siding, you should familiarize yourself with important information that will help you avoid common mistakes:

• Immediately after purchasing the material, it should be stored in a suitable dry place to protect it from atmospheric moisture. It is prohibited to place heavy objects on the panel that could deform the product.
• If you wish, you can order cutting of elements directly in the store. But you will do this yourself during the installation process, then for such purposes it is better to use a reciprocating saw or an electric jigsaw. In this case, it is better to start cutting from the side where the mounting strip with holes is located.
• It is forbidden to use an angle grinder for cutting, since the quickly heating disk will destroy the polymer and protective layer, which will subsequently contribute to the development of corrosion.
• Calculating the amount of material is easy. It is enough to find the area of ​​all sheathed facades. There is no need to subtract window and door openings, since a certain amount of material will be used for fitting and trimming.
• To ensure thermal expansion of the material, the ends of the panel should not reach the inside of the guide additional elements by 8-10 mm.
• When installing metal siding, fasteners must be screwed into the central part of the elongated slot on the product. However, they should not be tightened all the way so that the panels can freely expand and contract with temperature changes. If you do not leave a gap of 1 mm between the fastening element and the product, then during thermal deformations the panel will move and the cladding will lose its presentable appearance.

Siding installation is carried out using the following additional elements:

• finishing and starting profiles;
• strips for framing windows and doors;
• slopes and ebbs;
• internal and external corner element;
• connecting profile.

Required materials and tools

Siding installation is carried out using the following tools:

• ladder;
• reciprocating saw or jigsaw;
• roulette;
• construction level;
• metal scissors;
• screwdriver;
• cord.

In addition to the metal siding itself and additional elements for making the frame, you will need the following materials:

• special brackets;
• guides for gypsum boards or wooden beams;
• self-tapping screws

To insulate the walls of your house and protect against moisture, you need to purchase:

• thermal insulation material (mineral wool, polystyrene foam, basalt wool or extruded polystyrene foam);
• disc-shaped dowel-nails;
• special vapor barrier membrane.

Preparatory work

If you are installing the siding with your own hands, then first you need to create a frame for its installation. To do this, the walls of the house need to be cleaned of dust and debris. The walls of a wooden house are treated with antiseptic compounds and fire retardants. Using polyurethane foam or mortar, all cracks and holes are sealed.

It is better to treat the walls of a foam concrete house with a deep penetration primer. As for the log building, it should also be treated with protective compounds. In this case, it is better to replace rotten logs and elements with mold. All cracks must be carefully caulked.

Installation of sheathing

After this, using a plumb line and a tape measure, markings are made on the surface of the walls, along which the brackets will be attached in the future. These elements are attached at the intersection of marking lines.

Important: the panels cannot be mounted directly on the wall of the house, since there must be a ventilation gap behind them, which will prevent condensation from accumulating behind the casing.

For cladding a wooden house, it is better to use a sheathing made of timber with a cross-section of 4x6 cm. The moisture content of the wood should be no more than 15%. Laths for sheathing are also treated with protective compounds and dried well. For cladding a brick house or a building made of cellular concrete, it is better to use galvanized profile lathing for gypsum boards.

The guide rails are attached to brackets, which are installed at a certain pitch - 50-60 cm. To install siding in a horizontal position, the sheathing is made vertically, and vice versa. Slats or profiles must be attached along the bottom and top of walls, in the corners of the house, around doors and windows.

Important: when choosing the pitch of the sheathing, you should not forget about the width of the slabs of heat-insulating material. They must be laid between the sheathing, so it is better to choose the pitch based on the width of the insulation.

Hydro- and thermal insulation of walls

If you do the installation yourself, you can insulate the house if you wish. Thermal insulation material is placed between the sheathing guides and attached to the walls of the house with disc-shaped dowels.

A vapor barrier membrane must be attached on top of the insulation, which will prevent it from becoming damp due to the accumulation of condensate. If insulation is not used, the membrane is attached directly to the walls of the house before the sheathing is completed.

Important: there must be a ventilation gap between the siding and the vapor barrier membrane, so after attaching the film on top of it, additional slats are mounted on the guides. After installing the casing on them, you will get the required ventilation gap 3-4 cm wide.

Panel installation

Do-it-yourself installation of metal siding is carried out in the following sequence:

1. First, above the base of the house, we attach the base flashing to the sheathing batten. We install a starting bar on top of the low tide. The plank is leveled and attached to the frame using self-tapping screws.
2. Next, we install corner profiles in the corners of the house. If the wall of the house is longer than the panel, then at the junction of the ends of the two panels we attach a connecting profile. We install end strips near windows and doors.
3. Next, we begin installing the panels from bottom to top. Before doing this, you need to remove the protective film from them. We attach the first element to the sheathing guides only after it is fixed on the starting strip. To fix the elements to the frame, we use self-tapping screws with press washers 16x4.2. We screw the fasteners into special slots in the panel fastening strip.
4. We install the remaining products in the same way, constantly monitoring the horizontal installation and the strength of adhesion of the elements to each other.
5. Having reached the window, the panel is cut to the required length. If it should be narrower in width so as not to cover the bottom of the window, the product is cut to length so that after installation of the ebb, its required slope is ensured.
6. Now we attach the frame of the window opening. First, let's set the tide. It should extend beyond the edges of the window on both sides by 5-6 cm. Then we install the panels on the side slopes of the window. Finally, we attach the top bar. The trim around the doorway is installed in the same way.
7. If the lining of the eaves of the house will be made of siding, then the top row of panels should be inserted into the internal corner element, fixed along the top of the facade of the house under the roof. On the other hand, the eaves overhang trim panels will be inserted into this corner element. If the roof overhang is made of a different material or is already made, then the top row is covered with a finishing strip.

Video instructions for installing metal siding with your own hands: