Fire retardant treatment of metal. Fire retardant treatment of metal structures. Protection with vermiculite boards

New progressive methods and nanotechnologies that appear almost every day in production and in everyday life never cease to amaze both ordinary people and professionals. Take, for example, the same construction. How could, say, in Soviet times, some foreman, almost with tears in his eyes knocking the notorious plan out of his workers, dream that there would be not just special devices for plastering walls, but at least more or less acceptable finishing materials, not just sand and cement. Of course not. But they worked. They erected houses and handed over keys to apartments to happy new residents. And they carried out the same plan. And they overfulfilled it. True, the quality of the work left much to be desired, but these are minor things. And therefore, today, when there is a huge amount of all kinds of finishing materials that greatly facilitate the work of the master, it would be a sin not to take advantage of it. Houses are still being built today; the same crooked, Soviet-era walls remain, which the current owners would like to bring to life. You never know where finishing work is required. And they are oh so expensive if you invite professionals. That is why home craftsmen are increasingly thinking about how to learn how to plaster walls, whether it is possible to cope with this work on their own, which materials are better for which surfaces. We will try to give a comprehensive answer to these and other questions in our review. At the same time, we’ll tell you in detail how to plaster walls using beacons, what types of finishing materials there are, how to properly prepare the surface, and much more. We read, we educate ourselves, we learn. And we plaster the walls with our own hands.

Methods

Since no one can plaster walls without at least rudimentary skills and knowledge of the basics of the process, let’s start, as they say, from the very beginning. By and large, there are only two finishing methods. This is plaster, so to speak, on a plane, using a special device - the rules. And with the display (necessarily at the building level) of lighthouses. The first option is used in cases where the curvature of the surface is not too noticeable, and the defects and differences existing on it are not particularly significant. The second one is used for finishing rough walls. Or so crooked that they can only be brought to perfection by applying a thick layer of finishing material. It is much easier to work in a plane, but with beacons it is much more difficult. Therefore, before looking for the answer to the question of how to properly plaster walls, wisely assess the surface to be updated. It may be possible to get by with, so to speak, a little bloodshed.

Species

The question “how to plaster walls correctly” cannot be answered unambiguously. Because this type of finishing work can be performed in different ways and using different materials. In addition, the walls themselves are also not all the same and not everywhere. They can be either internal or external. Both façade and utility room surfaces are subject to plastering. Agree, it is difficult to compare the walls of a closet with those in, say, a living room or bedroom. In this regard, when we plaster walls with our own hands, without, quite understandably, having the necessary professional skills, we should remember the following. In non-residential premises that do not require additional finishing (the same as wallpapering or ceramic tiles) - storerooms, garages, sheds, etc. - the usual method of plastering walls is used. With this type, the solution is applied only in two layers, usually by eye. For improved finishing, they are plastered in three layers; in addition, the walls must be puttied after the solution is applied and dried. High-quality finishing involves the use of beacons and expensive mixtures from well-known brands.

In addition, anyone who has decided to thoroughly study how to plaster walls correctly must remember one more thing: do not confuse ordinary finishing with decorative ones. Venetian, flock, textured and other types of plaster are not intended for leveling walls. This is the final stage of finishing work, followed only by painting.

Materials

It is quite understandable that every novice master has a logical question: “What is the best way to plaster walls?” Today, few people prepare solutions on their own, because you can buy ready-made mixtures that just need to be diluted with water. The main thing is to choose them correctly. For example, cement-lime mixtures are excellent for walls made of aerated concrete, brick, and concrete. They are made from sand, lime, cement and various additives that promote better adhesion of the solution and improve its quality characteristics. There are also universal mixtures suitable for finishing any walls, both inside and outside. They are called cement-sand, and what they consist of is clear from the name. Plus, of course, the same additives, without which, by the way, not a single mixture for finishing work can do today. The last type - gypsum plasters - is the most popular. But these mixtures are also the most expensive. But they are easy to work with, and the quality of finishing with gypsum solutions is always excellent. True, they dry out very quickly, in addition, they cannot be used in rooms with high humidity. Therefore, for example, if the question is “how to plaster the walls in the bathroom,” then the best answer to it would be to choose a cement-sand mortar that is not afraid of any water.

Tools

When wondering how to plaster walls, you need to understand that you won’t be able to do this without special tools. Therefore, every novice finisher must certainly acquire the following materials and tools:

Preparation

Since it is impossible to plaster walls without first preparing them, let’s say a few words about this simple but very important process. First of all, it is necessary to remove the old coating existing on it from the surface. First of all, this applies to wallpaper, oil paint, and whitewash. Moreover, you need to get rid of them very diligently, to the maximum. If you find significant cracks or any other mechanical damage on the wall, they need to be widened, then cleaned of the existing sand, primed and sealed with mortar. You also need to check the surface for internal defects, in particular voids. Why do you need to tap the wall? The presence of a dull sound will indicate that in this place the old plaster has poorly adhered to the base surface. It must be beaten off and then sealed as well. If the resulting holes after beating are very deep, then for better adhesion of the solution used to fill defects, you need to put some kind of filler into them - foam plastic, pieces of reinforcing mesh, etc. It is also better to beat off the bumps protruding above the surface, which will make it possible to significantly save quantity finishing material used.

A prerequisite is that the surface must be very carefully primed before starting work. Each finishing material has its own type of primer (information about this can be read on the packaging in which the mixture is stored). If there is no way to purchase exactly the one recommended by the manufacturer, take acrylic. We apply the primer either with a roller or a brush. If you have a spray bottle, even better. You can use it.

What to watch out for

Even highly qualified professionals, not to mention beginners, often make mistakes. What should you be wary of when starting to plaster walls? What defects are most common and how to avoid them?

Shrinkage cracks most often occur because the mortar used for the job dries too quickly. Most often this happens when the room temperature is very high. Or there is a draft moving through it. Another reason for the appearance of this kind of cracks is the application of a subsequent layer of mortar on top of the previous one, which has not yet had time to dry.

It also happens that in some places the new plaster simply begins to peel off. All this happens due to the fact that the preliminary preparation of the walls was carried out incorrectly (or carelessly). Let's say the base surface was either too dry or very dirty.

Sometimes on freshly finished walls in certain areas the mortar seems to swell. Cause? The original base surface was very raw.

Quite often, novice craftsmen are not very happy with their work, because the plastered surface turns out to be rough. Well, it was necessary to carry out the final procedure - grouting - more conscientiously.

The occurrence of all of the listed shortcomings may be due to one more reason: a discrepancy between the material from which the walls are built and the mortar used for finishing. But we will cover this issue in more detail below.

Gypsum

By and large, the process of plastering walls is almost always the same. The only thing is that some nuances may arise when using finishing materials that have a different base. As we said above, all solutions are usually prepared from gypsum or cement. Therefore, a few words about their features.

So, how to plaster walls with gypsum plaster? Firstly, such mixtures are very rarely used to level walls that are characterized by large curvature. You can't call gypsum plasters bad. On the contrary, they are very good. But, as we already mentioned, firstly, they are expensive, and secondly, they dry very quickly. In this regard, they are most often used only where it is necessary to apply a small layer of finishing material to obtain a high-quality final result. Due to the fact that gypsum mortar dries quickly, it is ideal for filling large local defects. As for the features of working with it, you need to remember one thing: you need to knead it quickly, and not very much. As much as is needed to treat a section of wall for an hour. Naturally, you cannot compare the speed of work of a professional and a novice master. Therefore, mix the solution in small portions and quickly, using a special mixer (this is the name of the attachment on an electric drill). Spray the entire prepared mixture at once with a small spatula, and then level it over the surface with a large one (about forty or fifty centimeters long). The first layer is aligned horizontally. If you need to apply another layer, you should wait until the first one is completely dry. The second one is aligned vertically.

Cement

Modern cement mortars, due to the presence of various additives and modifiers in them, are very plastic, easy to work with, and do not harden for a long time. How to plaster walls with cement mortar? Yes, exactly the same as with plaster. The only difference is that cement mixtures do not dry out so quickly, and therefore they are excellent for finishing large areas. In addition, if it is necessary to apply the solution in several layers, it is necessary to increase the exposure time (the solution dries within six or even eight hours).

When, after a little practice, you realize that you have already gained enough experience, you can work with the help of the rule. First, spread the cement mixture over a large section of the wall, and then level it, working from top to bottom.

Angles

One of the most painful questions. How to plaster the corners of walls? Indeed, this can become a problem. Especially when you consider that the corners in our apartments are far from exemplary. In order to make them straight, you can use a little trick. You need to stock up on a good straight board, and its length should be the same as the height of the room. Then use self-tapping screws to fix it directly into the corner of the perpendicular wall, retreating from its edge a distance equal to the thickness of the applied layer of plaster mortar. The procedure must be carried out using (this is a prerequisite) a level and a plumb line. After the plastered surface has dried, fix the board in the same way on the already treated surface in order to finish the entire corner. As for the outer corners, everything is much simpler here. To finish them, a special perforated metal profile is sold, which is attached to the corner to be leveled using a mortar. We control the correctness of the work at the same level.

As you can see, the devil is not so scary... Well, now about a more complex procedure. About how to plaster walls using beacons.

We work with beacons

This method allows you to obtain an almost flat surface at the output. When working with beacons, a cement-based mixture is used for plastering, but the profile must be secured to the wall with gypsum mortar, since it dries faster. So, the algorithm of actions.

Beacons are special metal profiles that can be purchased at almost any hardware store. Before purchasing them, measure the height and area of the room to be finished. And then do the calculations. The profile must be installed every one and a half meters. The distance from the first lighthouse to the corner is no more than fifteen, maximum twenty centimeters. As for the length, it varies, but not less than two and a half meters.

So, a description of the process. Vertically we apply bumps of gypsum mortar to the wall every thirty centimeters. Then carefully insert the beacon into them (its length should correspond to the height of the room). And then, checking with a level, we press the profile into the solution so that in the end it stands perfectly level. First, we install two beacons in the corners in this way. Then we stretch the thread between them (under the ceiling and closer to the floor). It will serve as a guide for installing beacons in the middle of the wall. Now you need to wait until the solution dries completely. Experienced craftsmen often use alabaster to strengthen lighthouses. But this method is not entirely suitable for a beginner, since such a solution dries out almost instantly. So it's better to be patient.

Next you need to plaster the gaps between the beacons. Starting from the floor, add the solution. And then, as a rule, running it along the beacons (almost like on rails), we pull it up and level it. Filling the gaps must be done in parts. Professionals recommend that after the gap is completely filled, apply the rule several times in the vertical direction. This will make the wall smoother.

Upon completion of the work and after the solution has dried, some then break out the profiles, and the resulting cavities are sealed again. By and large, apart from additional difficulties, this will not bring anything. So the beacons can be safely left in the wall. They are made of stainless metal, and therefore will not present any unpleasant surprises during the further finishing process.

Slopes

As a rule, if such extensive work is carried out in a room, then everything is finished. Therefore, a novice master is interested in how to plaster slopes. We answer. Just like everything else. Using a solution and a level. As you know, slopes (it doesn’t matter whether they are doors or windows) have external corners. A special profile is used for their finishing. We have already mentioned it above. As for the material used, if the defects on the slopes are large, then it is preferable to use cement mortars, since the plaster will have to be applied in several stages. If not very good, plaster will do. The algorithm of actions is similar. Preparing the surface, pouring the solution, leveling it with a spatula. The final stage is finishing with putty and painting.

Various surfaces

Everyone knows that wall surfaces are different. This could be plasterboard, which, by the way, there is no need to plaster, since the walls made of it are already smooth, and brick, and wood, and blocks. The finishing of each surface has its own nuances. What follows in a few words.

How to plaster walls made of foam blocks? For these purposes, a cement mixture is usually used. You can use a regular one, or you can purchase a special one, created for finishing this particular material. True, its cost is much higher. Let's agree right away. The plastering process itself - regardless of what the base surface is made of - is the same in all cases. The difference lies only in the presence or absence of any additional steps. For example, to plaster foam blocks, it is necessary to first strengthen the surface with a reinforcing mesh. It is mounted on special hooks. And then carry out finishing work. How to plaster aerated concrete walls? The same as from foam blocks - cement mortar. Only here it is already possible to do without reinforcement; it is enough to place a polyurethane paint mesh under the solution.

The question of how to plaster brick walls can be answered as follows. If they are very uneven, then you also need to carry out reinforcement first. And use the same cement mortar as the material. With almost perfect brickwork, it is quite possible to work with a gypsum mixture. But, as already mentioned, it is more expensive, and therefore not very acceptable for large areas (based on economic considerations). As for how to plaster wooden walls, everything is clear here. Only on the lathing, and only with gypsum mortar. A lot has already been said about the latter, so we won’t repeat it. As for the so-called shingles, it is made from slats, nailing them crosswise. After which I treat it with an antiseptic, and then apply a plaster solution to the surface.

How and with what to plaster walls and is it necessary to do it at all? This question is faced by everyone who makes repairs or builds a house. However, this is a very important and responsible stage of finishing work, the quality of which will determine the structure covered with plaster and the frequency of its repair. Whether you entrust the work to specialists or do the finishing yourself depends on your capabilities and time; more and more often, the owners of the premises take on the task themselves. So what is the best way to plaster walls?

Types and forms of plaster mixtures

The construction market offers a wide range of dry and ready-made mixtures for finishing work. The advantage of ready-made solutions is convenience - you don’t need to mix anything, you open the package and start working. But such material will cost more than the most common dry mixtures, which must be prepared independently. All packages of the semi-finished product contain detailed instructions for preparing the working mixture; this process is not difficult, even an inexperienced user can handle it.

Based on the material, plasters are divided into 2 main groups: cement and gypsum. Cement and cement-sand mortars are used for plastering external walls, facades, and industrial premises. Gypsum is great for interior decoration.

Types by quality

Simple. It is applied in several layers in rooms that do not require additional finishing. These are mainly cement and cement-sand mortars.
Improved. Used for finishing residential, office and public premises. This is applied using a special technology in several stages; the composition of this mixture includes substances that improve the quality of the coating.
High quality. As a rule, these are dry or ready-made decorative plaster compositions for the finishing smallest fraction using color and/or texture inclusions.

In modern finishing, a combined wall coating is used, when a base of cement-sand composition is applied to a wall lined with bricks or blocks to level the surface, and thinner gypsum plaster is laid on top of it for wallpaper or high-quality decorative as a finishing coating.

Do I need to plaster the walls?

There are many ways to give your walls and room a neat and well-groomed look. If the walls in the room are smooth and do not require leveling, as, for example, you can do without major plastering, and just limit yourself to puttying and/or priming for wallpaper or painting.

Facades can also be finished in other ways (cladding with facade bricks or installing ventilated systems: panels, tiles on profiles). If the walls were previously plastered, assess the condition of the coating. In old houses, the plaster layer is removed completely or in fragments and a new layer is applied, sometimes a cement-sand mixture of small thickness is applied on top to update and level the surface for painting.

Who to entrust plastering work to?

Since using the services of professionals is not cheap (from 500 rubles/sq. m for cement plaster and from 300 rubles/sq. m for gypsum plaster), we plaster the walls with our own hands, if time permits. Plus, it will help you maintain your budget.

Stages of work

First, we determine which mortar it is more rational to plaster the walls in a particular case:

For facades and external walls, it is advisable to use cement and cement-sand mortars. After hardening, such surfaces withstand the harmful external influences of rain, high temperature changes, snow, and mechanical shocks. Often plastered walls are covered with facade paints, then the building becomes neat and elegant, but here it is important to choose high-quality paint that will also be resistant to external influences.
Compositions made from cement and sand are also suitable for interior decoration. If the premises are industrial, then the plastered walls are not subjected to additional finishing.

Walls in apartments and office premises are covered with cement-sand mortar at the stage of construction or major renovation, when it is necessary to hide large irregularities that arise from uneven laying of blocks or bricks. As a rule, such a coating serves as the basis for:

Insulation of walls, corners.
Further filling with gypsum compounds.
Wallpapering.

We figured out what is the best way to plaster walls in specific conditions.

Preparation of material and tools

Before starting work, you need to stock up on the necessary set of tools and materials so that there are no difficulties or hiccups during the work process. To work you will need:

Dry mixture and water or ready-made solution.
Drill with mixer attachment for mixing the mixture.
Measurement for water and steelyard.
Plaster mesh to ensure rigidity of a thick layer (in basements, facades).
Dowels, self-tapping screws for fixing the mesh to the wall.
Beacons (special profiles for even application of mortar over the entire plane of the wall).
Metal scissors for cutting mesh and beacons.
Tape measure for accurately measuring the sizes and distances between beacons.
Bubble level and plumb line with thread.
A hammer drill for drilling holes for dowels.
Construction pencil (thickened) for marking.
Trowel for throwing mortar onto the wall (for manual application).
Rule for leveling the bulk of the solution between the beacons.
Set of spatulas for leveling plaster.
A trowel for leveling the cement-sand finishing layer.
Gloves to protect hands.
Clock to track the time between mixing and setting of the solution.

Preparing the work surface

Once you have decided what to plaster the walls with, you should begin preparing the walls for the work process. Before starting work, the wall must be thoroughly cleaned of dust, dirt, foreign and protruding elements. If the surface turns out to be flat and smooth, you need to make notches for better adhesion of the mortar to the wall.

Fastening the plaster mesh

In basements, where additional insulation and the application of a thick layer are necessary, a plaster mesh is attached to the primed base. It prevents the formation of cracks when the building shrinks and prevents the mortar from spreading.

There are several ways to attach the mesh to the wall, but the most accessible for home use is this: the dowels are connected with wire in a Z-shape, this ensures the tightest fit to the work surface. Dowel-nails are fixed in increments of about 15 cm. Fastening is done from the bottom up.

In addition, the mesh is fixed using finely cut pieces of a metal beacon: profile fragments 2 cm long are screwed to the mesh with self-tapping screws. In this case, the beacon trimmings serve as substitutes for dowel-nails.

Display of beacons

This procedure will ensure uniform application of the solution over the entire surface of the wall.

The distance between adjacent beacons should be several centimeters less than the length of the rule.

Marking begins from the corner at a distance of 15-20 cm. Holes for dowels are made on the drawn vertical line. Next, using a level or plumb line, place the dowels on the self-tapping screws in one plane so that the wall turns out smooth without any differences.

Next, a small amount of solution is applied to the lines between the fasteners to fix the beacons, then, by pressing, the beacon is installed in the caps of the screws as a rule. The protruding solution is smeared or removed. After installing several beacons, check the evenness of the installation. After a few hours, the wall is ready for plastering.

Wall plastering technology

Let's look at how to plaster walls with cement mortar. Prepare the solution according to the instructions on the package. To do this, we use a steelyard and a water measure to accurately maintain the proportions of substances. Mixing is done with a drill and mixer.

We plaster the walls along the beacons like this: using a trowel, we spread the mortar onto the wall evenly over the entire plane and use the rule to level it. Using spatulas we correct minor unevenness. If it is necessary to apply a large layer of mortar, it is necessary to do this in several stages in thinner layers, otherwise the thick layer being laid will fall off or drain.

If no further finishing is expected, it is advisable to grout. To do this, the same solution is diluted with water to a creamy state, applied to dried plaster and rubbed using a trowel.

If subsequent finishing is intended (puttying or immediately gluing wallpaper), the dried plastered surface is cleaned with sandpaper to remove possible unevenness and marks from spatulas and primed with special compounds.

The given technology describes how to plaster walls with cement-sand mortar. Other types of plaster coatings are applied in a similar way.

Gypsum plasters

Now let's look at how to plaster a wall with gypsum-based plaster.

Unlike cement mortar, gypsum plaster is more often used as a finishing layer in finishing, since it has a finer fraction and gives the walls a smooth, well-groomed appearance; it can be colored and textured.

Gypsum plaster can also be applied as a base for further finishing directly onto the laid wall. In this case, the application technology remains the same: cleaning the surface, priming, setting beacons, applying the solution. Gypsum compositions are easier to apply than cement ones, and this work is easy to handle. Basically, gypsum plasters are sold in the form of dry mixtures; preparing the working composition should not cause difficulties - detailed instructions are included everywhere.

More often, gypsum plasters are used to thinly putty the cement-sand layer, having previously primed it.

We also plaster the walls with our own hands using decorative compounds. Especially if you want to give your walls a unique design. There are special plastic compositions with which you can apply a variety of textures and patterns.

The choice is yours

How to plaster the walls is everyone’s personal choice. The most important thing when choosing a material is to take into account the conditions in which it will have to serve, so that there are no problems during operation. As you can see, cement mortars are universal and can be used anywhere, but for interior decoration they often require additional coating. Walls with cement-sand cladding are guaranteed to withstand various suspended structures. Gypsum plaster will give your wall a neat, smoother look and is easier to apply, but if it is chosen as the base layer, it may be difficult to hang cabinets due to the softness of the gypsum, although it will hold up well to the painting.

In any case, the plastered surface always lasts a long time; this method of finishing any walls and rooms is the simplest and most versatile. How to plaster the walls - choose wisely!

Well-plastered walls always look very aesthetically pleasing and neat, but to achieve such results you need to do quite labor-intensive work.

Plastering walls with your own hands can be done if a novice master thoroughly studies how this process is carried out, understands what is needed to carry it out, and understands the basics of the technology of such work.

However, in order to perform high-quality plastering of walls, not only theoretical knowledge is important, but also at least a little practice in this work. Therefore, if you have no experience in plastering “manipulations,” you first need to try your hand at a small section of the wall. By doing this kind of training, you can at least get a little better at sketching and leveling it out.

This experience will be useful not only to owners of private houses, but also to owners of apartments in high-rise buildings, since, unfortunately, even in panel houses the walls often need quite serious leveling.

Material for applying plaster

The plaster mixture for finishing walls is selected depending on what the walls of the building are made of. In addition, the conditions where there will be work is being carried out- indoors or outside a building.

Prices for popular types of plaster

Plaster

Brick walls

Brick walls are usually plastered with cement-based mixtures, sometimes with a small addition of lime to give additional plasticity. Lime is also added if work is carried out indoors with high humidity or outside the building.

A layer of plaster is applied to the brick walls, which should not exceed 30 mm. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the fact that if the thickness of the coating is more than 20 mm, then a chain-link mesh must be attached to the wall under the plaster to reinforce and hold the mixture on the surface.
based on cement, you need to take ingredients based on the proportions of 1 part cement and 3 ÷ 4 parts sifted clean sand. These starting materials are mixed with water to a thick consistency, but it is also taken into account that the mixture must be plastic.
If a cement-lime mixture is being made, then you will need 1 part cement, 1 ÷ 2 lime paste and 5 ÷ 7 parts sand. First, sand is mixed with cement, then lime diluted to the consistency of milk is added to the dry mixture, and everything is mixed together until smooth. If the composition is too thick, it is allowed (although not recommended) to add a small amount of water.
If facing brick is fixed to the walls, it will be more difficult to plaster it due to the fact that it has a smooth surface. It is likely that the mixture will roll off the wall or even fall off in pieces - sometimes even reinforcing mesh does not help in such a situation. Therefore, such a surface requires special professional primers and properly selected reinforcing mesh. It is better to entrust this work to qualified specialists who know which materials will be optimal for a particular surface and are fluent in the technology of applying them to “complex” surfaces.

concrete wall

If the concrete surface is smooth, then it must be prepared using a primer with the addition of quartz inclusions, which will give the wall the roughness required to reliably hold the plaster. Added to the cement mortar for the wall gypsum powder, which significantly enhances the adhesion of the mixture to the wall.

In addition, a lime-gypsum solution is often used for such a surface, where proportions of 3 ÷ 4 parts lime and 1 part gypsum are applicable. The process of preparing such a mixture takes place in the following order: gypsum is quickly mixed with water - the mass should not be too thick, lime mortar is poured into it, and then everything is kneaded until smooth.
If the concrete wall has roughness, then it will not require complex preparation, a special approach or special compositions, since traditional cement or gypsum plaster mortars are suitable for it. However, before applying the plaster to the wall, it is recommended to impregnate it with the deep penetration primer “Betonokontakt”.

Foam concrete walls

When applying plaster to foam concrete, reinforcing mesh is required

Before plastering, walls made of foam concrete blocks must be treated with a deep penetration impregnation primer. If necessary, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh – “serpyanka” – is fixed to the wall.
For such walls, both gypsum and cement mortars are used.

When choosing compositions for leveling walls, you need to approach this issue with all responsibility. This is necessary for comfortable plastering work, for good adhesion of the solutions to the wall and for the quality of the task performed - the longest service life of plastered walls.

It should be noted that construction stores currently offer a very large number of ready-made mixtures on different bases and designed for different surfaces. This is very convenient - when preparing the compositions, you will not need to rack your brains with determining and dosing the proportions of its ingredients, since it will be enough to simply dilute the mixture with water to the consistency indicated on the package.

When choosing or making your own plaster composition, you can use the following tables:

Table 1. Main characteristics of ready-made plaster mixtures

Indicator	Standards for brands							Test methods
	Coupling solution LS 10/90	Leveling solution LS 35/95	Coupling solution LS 50/50	Coupling solution LS 65/35	Finishing mortar Fine Coat LS 50/50	Termonit putty	Putty for blocks
Recommended layer thickness in mm	3÷5	5÷15	5÷15	5÷15	3÷10	2÷10	3÷10	TU clause 1.2
Recommended water consumption l/25kg	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	4÷5	5.5÷6	6÷7	TU clause 1.2
Estimated compressive strength in MPa not less than	16	8	4	2	4	6	20	GOST 5802-86
Estimated bending strength in MPa not less than	2	2	1	1	1	3	3	GOST 5802-86
Adhesion to base in MPa not less	0.5	0.4	0.3	0.3	0.3	1	0.5	GOST 5802-86
Average density of solution kg/m 3	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900	GOST 8735-88
RN	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	TU clause 1.2

Wall surface characteristics	Composition of the solution
	Limestone, (with sand, gypsum, cement)	Complex (cement, sand, gypsum, lime)	Cement-sand	Lime-gypsum
In rooms with normal humidity
	1:4; 3:1; 2:1	1:1:6	1:0,3:4*	-
Wooden	-	-	-	1:1÷1.5÷2÷2.5
For rooms with high humidity and for outdoor use
Brick, concrete, stone	-	1:1:4	1:3	-
Wooden		1:1:6	1:4	-
* Note - 0.3 lime is added to the cement mortar for plasticity.
Note: the mobility of the solution should be 60 ÷ 80 mm for mechanized application, 70 ÷ 80 mm for manual application

Preparatory work

Before starting plastering work, it is necessary to carry out preparatory measures to clean the walls of old finishing materials. This is done so that the plaster fits well and stays on the surface of the wall - everything must be removed from it, down to the base. Walls made of different materials require an individual approach to cleaning them.

If, after cleaning the walls, cracks are found on them, they must be repaired, otherwise the plaster placed on top of them may crack in the same place.

Sealing cracks

Detected cracks must be repaired, and this process is carried out in different ways, depending on the width and prevalence existing defects.

If the width of the crack is small, but it is obvious that it goes deep into the wall, the first thing to do is to widen it and free access to the narrow part in the thickness of the material.

Expansion of cracks on the wall surface...

... followed by their sealing

After the penetrating composition has dried, the crack is sealed with cement or gypsum-based putty using a spatula, level with the wall surface.

If the crack is very narrow and not deep, then you can seal it with sealant or silicone. They fill the crack with the help of a thin nozzle attached to the bottle with the composition, which is directed deep into the crack.

To seal very wide cracks, polyurethane foam is often used, which can be used to fill the gaps without even waiting for the primer to dry completely.

After complete polymerization of the foam, its excess, protruding beyond the level of the wall surface, is cut off, and then you can proceed to the next processes according to

Preparing a brick wall

If a thin layer of old plaster has previously been applied to brick walls, it needs to be wetted with water using a sponge, moistening several times - this will make it easier to come off the surface.

Then, using a spatula with a metal working surface thickness of 1.5 ÷ 2 mm and a hammer, the plaster layer must be carefully removed.

To do this, one of the sections of the wall is first tapped with a hammer. Then, through the cracks that have appeared, the plaster that has peeled off from the impacts is picked up with a spatula. If necessary, tap its handle with a hammer to separate layers of plaster from the wall.

You need to walk along the cleaned wall with a wire brush or a grinder with an appropriate attachment.
Next, the seams between the bricks need to be deepened a little - by 5 ÷ 7 mm, so that the plaster goes into them and from this got the best adhesion to the wall.
After this, the wall is cleaned with a soft brush and then a damp sponge.
The final preparatory stage is to coat the wall with a deep penetration primer in two layers. The second layer is applied after the first has completely dried.

How to prepare a concrete wall

It is easier to clean a smooth concrete wall from plaster or whitewash than a brick wall, since the plaster usually sticks to it less well.

The whitewash can be thoroughly wetted with a sponge and brushed off with an iron brush, and then the surface of the wall can be rinsed well.
If you don’t want to spread dampness, you can do it differently: first cover the whitewash with a thick layer of paste and let it dry, and then clean off the whitewash or a thin layer of plaster with a hard spatula.

It is recommended to make shallow cuts on the cleaned surface. It should be noted that this process is not easy, so you will have to make a lot of effort. But you shouldn’t ignore it.
You can replace the application of notches with a simpler method - by priming the wall with the addition of pure fine quartz sand. But sometimes this method may not work, so it is best to conduct the experiment on a small area of the wall, applying soil to it and waiting for it to dry completely. Next, you need to run your hand along the wall, checking its roughness. If it is noticeable, it means that the plaster will stick to it well. But the sand should not fall off the wall.

Preparing a wooden wall

It is quite easy to clean off old plaster from a wooden surface. The wall is tapped with a hammer, and the plaster itself flies off to the floor, so it is recommended to lay plastic film under the wall in advance. Then, after removing the plaster, the film along with the chipped construction debris can be immediately removed from the room, without stretching the cleaning for a long time and without spreading dirt for the whole house.
In order for the plaster to adhere well to a wooden surface, thin slats are stuffed onto it - the so-called shingles. They are nailed onto the wall diagonally. The shingles will not only hold the plaster solution well, but will also serve as beacons when leveling it on the surface.

Shingles on a wooden wall are an excellent “reinforcement” for plaster

If, after cleaning the wall of old plaster, it is discovered that old shingles are attached to the surface, it must be removed, since insects could have infested it during long-term use, or it could have rotted and does not adhere securely to the surface. wall. In addition, old wood can often emit an unpleasant odor, which can easily seep into the room through a layer of new plaster.
Do not forget that before filling the sheathing, the wall must be coated with antiseptic compounds to protect the wood from mold or the appearance of colonies of harmful insects.
If shingles are chosen for the sheathing, then after its installation is completed, the wall must once again be coated with a wood preservative.
Sometimes, instead of shingles, metal mesh is used for sheathing. It is fixed not to the wooden wall itself, but to the slats, which are spacers between the mesh and the wall. Their thickness should be at least 3 mm.
You can begin further work on leveling the walls with plaster only after the wall has dried thoroughly.

Displaying beacons

To achieve ideal evenness of the wall using plastering, it is necessary to establish guidelines, so-called beacons, which are set according to the building level.

Typically, metal guides are made, which are fixed to the wall using gypsum mortar - it quickly sets and holds the metal profile in the position inwhich it was installed level.

The beacons are installed at a distance of about one and a half meters from each other, so that when leveling the solution, it usually follows two adjacent beacon profiles.

The ideal verticality of the profiles is controlled using a plumb line.

If you only have a short level in your tool kit, then you can use a long block that is placed against the guide before the plaster solution has completely dried. A level is placed in the middle and one or the other side of the guide is leveled along it, carefully pressing it with a block.

After preparing the walls for applying plaster, you can proceed to preparing the solution.

Preparation of mortar for plaster

The process itself plastering Most often it is carried out in three stages, applying the solution in three layers.

The first layer is throwing a fairly thick plaster solution onto the wall.

The first layer is a sketch, simply a plastering of plastic plaster composition

The process can be carried out using a trowel or simply by hand, but in this case you must wear thick rubber gloves.

- The mortar is applied to brick and concrete walls with a thickness slightly higher than the installed beacons - this is approximately 5 mm.

— On wooden walls with lathing, the thickness should be about 8 ÷ 9 mm.

The second layer is called soil. A solution with a dough-like consistency is prepared for it. It is applied using a trowel or wide spatula, and its thickness should be about 7 ÷ 8 mm.
The third, finishing layer is called the covering. It should be made of fine-grained sand without large inclusions. The solution for the finishing layer must have creamy consistency.

You can purchase ready-made mixtures for each layer of plaster, which contain all the components that contribute to good adhesion and strength of the hardened mass.

The solution should “diverge” well along the plane of the wall, but not flow down

If the solution is made independently, then the following recipes are most often used for their preparation:

Cement-lime composition: 1 Part lime, 1 Part cement and 5 parts sand
Cement mortar: 3 parts sand and 1 part cement.
Lime-based solution: 1 part lime and 3 parts sand.
Gypsum-lime composition: 3 parts lime mixed until doughy and 1 part dry gypsum powder.

There are nuances that must be taken into account before mixing the solution:

Cement-based plaster must be used within an hour after mixing it, otherwise it will lose its plasticity and will not adhere well to the wall surface. Therefore, you need to mix only such an amount of solution that can be guaranteed to be applied during this period of time.

Gypsum-based solutions set and harden extremely quickly, so they are mixed immediately before application to the wall and in small quantities. Such solutions also need to be leveled immediately, since the thinner the application layer, the faster it will dry.
When using ready-made mixtures, before pouring them with water, be sure to study the instructions located on the packaging, since these materials have different setting and drying times.

Mixing solutions occurs as follows:

First, water is poured into the container where the solution will be mixed. Then 6 ÷ 8 trowels of dry mixture are poured into it and mixed well using an electric drill with a special mixer attachment.
Then the dry mixture is gradually added to the container and mixed to the desired consistency. The solution must be homogeneous and plastic.
Next, the resulting solution is left for a couple of minutes and then kneaded one more time. If necessary, add a little water or dry plaster mixture, depending on the resulting and required thickness.

Once again I would like to remind you that you need to prepare as much mixture as the master can use in 25 ÷ 30 minutes - If the mixture is made on a gypsum basis, and in 40 ÷ 60 minutes - If on cement.

After the solution is mixed, you need to immediately proceed to the first stage of applying plaster to the wall.

Find out the features of the process from our new article.

Plaster application technique

As mentioned above, most often the work is carried out in three stages. They should be considered in more detail in order to know how to act correctly.

The first stage, “outlining” or “spraying”, is carried out using a trowel.

They begin to pour the mortar from the bottom of the wall, gradually working upwards. The thrown piles of plaster rise above the guides by 8 ÷ 10 mm.

The solution, one might say, is splashed onto the wall with a small spread, with an effort to adhere well to the wall.

Having thrown the plaster at a height of 1000 ÷ 1200 mm from the floor, it is leveled using the rule. It is installed on the guides and slowly lifted up, pressing on the mortar and distributing the plaster between the guides with smooth movements to the left and to the right.

The next stage is applying a primer layer. This stage is carried out after the mortar of the first layer, poured and leveled, has set.

Due to the plasticity of the composition, it can be applied using a wide spatula.

The solution is taken from the container using a medium-width spatula and transferred to a wide spatula, and then applied to the wall and distributed over it in an even layer. When applying the mixture, it is necessary to level all the stripes remaining from running the spatula across the surface.

The same layer should hide the visible guide strips.

The third, finishing layer is designed to make the surface perfectly smooth. It should be thin, no more than 1.5 ÷ 2 mm. It is applied to the still wet second layer, and if it has already dried, it can be moistened with a damp roller.

The finishing layer must be made as smooth as possible, smoothing all stripes and leveling not captured by a spatula places In order not to miss a single flaw on the surface, the wall is tangentially illuminated with a light bulb with the overhead lighting turned off.

After the finishing layer has dried, proceed to grouting the surface using a plastic or wooden trowel. This process is carried out in a circular motion, counterclockwise. In this case, the grater is pressed tightly against the plastered surface.

Next, felt material or felt is attached to the same grater, and the process of final grinding of the surface begins.

Before you decide to buy a large amount of materials for plastering walls, you should probably first purchase several kilograms of ready-made plaster mixture at a hardware store and carry out the entire process on a small section of the wall or on a piece of plywood. If everything goes well, you can move on to large-scale work on the walls of the room.

Applying facade plaster with your own hands is not so difficult. You just need to follow some rules and then all the work can be done independently.

In this case, the final price will not be high. Below you will be given instructions on the rules for performing the work and given the necessary recommendations. You can also learn a lot of useful information in the video in this article.

Types and methods of application

Before doing the work of applying facade plaster, you need to choose the right material. After all, there are several types and you need to choose the right one. The video on applying facade plaster will give you recommendations on this issue.

Types of facade plaster

Before starting plastering work on the facade, it is worth deciding on the type of mixture, since there are several options. The choice of plaster is largely influenced by the climatic conditions of your region of residence, as well as the type of material with which the facade is finished.

Let's look at the main existing basic types:

Attention: Silicone grade is the most expensive and best option among those offered. It has absorbed all the positive characteristics of the species described above. A polymer compound is taken as the basis for it.

Another criterion for classifying facade plaster is the method of its application and texture:

Pebble the option assumes the homogeneity of the layer containing a large number of grains. After grouting, the appearance of the plaster resembles small pebbles located very close to each other. An ideal solution for decorating the facade of a building located in a polluted area, since such texture does not retain dirt.
Texture "Bark beetle"(see Decorative bark beetle plaster: features of the material) - a type widely used in construction. It got its name because it creates the illusion of being eaten away by a beetle; it looks like numerous grooves. To obtain this texture, a plastic trowel is passed over a fresh layer of plaster. The surface is drawn in several directions: vertically, horizontally, in a circle. By experimenting with grain size, you can achieve maximum expressiveness of the texture.
Mosaic view It is a glass-type colored plaster. It is based on small multi-colored pebbles and transparent resin. Excellent for decorating plinths, balustrades, and slopes. Dirt and soot practically do not accumulate in it, and it is easy to clean.

Application tool

After you have chosen the type of plaster mixture, you should prepare the materials and tools necessary for the work:

A primer that provides reliable protection for surfaces;
Beacons, with their help, the quality of the applied layer is controlled;
Reinforcing mesh to prevent cracks;
Corners for mating surfaces;
Spatulas;
Grater;
Rule;
Knives.

Recommendations for work related to façade plastering

Applying plaster to a facade involves working with a large surface area, so there are some rules that should be followed:

Strictly follow the technology for preparing the plaster mixture;
Use the same ingredients for the entire technological cycle;
Properly divide the work surface into gripping zones;
Prepare in advance all the tools required for the work, as well as materials in full;
Perform all actions carefully and avoid negligence.

Compliance with these rules will allow you to get high-quality work and an attractive facade.

The market is literally overflowing with various types of facing products. And if in the construction of administrative and industrial buildings plaster mixtures for finishing facades are used extremely rarely, then in the private sector interest in them has only been growing recently. Let's figure out what causes this.

Advantages of plaster finishing

It makes no sense to dwell on listing all the advantages of this type of facing materials. All products intended for the exterior decoration of buildings meet certain requirements, and they are well known - moisture resistance, durability, mechanical strength and a number of others. What is so attractive about plastering facades?

1. Simplicity of technological operations.

The finishing of the facade, regardless of the architectural features of the building, can be done independently, without paying for the labor of hired craftsmen. Considering that the household tools that are in any home are quite sufficient, there is no need to rent (or buy) anything else. Therefore, this design method is more than economical.

2. Plaster allows the wall material to “breathe”.

This significantly affects both its shelf life (including insulation) and the microclimate inside the house. To achieve this when using other types of cladding, it is necessary to install a ventilated structure. And this requires additional financial investments, time and, importantly, experience. As the practice of decorating house facades shows, not everyone can perfectly align a load-bearing frame with their own hands without the skills. And the quality of exterior finishing directly depends on this.

3. High adhesion.

The plaster is securely bonded to any façade material, which greatly simplifies the stage of its initial preparation for cladding.

4. Good maintainability.

Mostly finishing materials receive spot damage, especially if the house is located next to the roadway. Almost any modern cladding is a one-piece product, which, in principle, is easy to replace yourself. But in reality it turns out that this is easy only in words, since many types of products for decorating house facades have some limitations in this regard. For example, dismantling/installing PVC siding with your own hands will not be difficult, but only at above-zero temperatures, since it breaks in the cold. It turns out that it will not be possible to bring the house into proper condition until spring. You can repair a façade finished with plaster at any time.

5. Large selection of options.

The range of finishing compositions is significant. Even the most popular decorative plasters are available in several varieties - bark beetle, mosaic and pebble texture. Therefore, you can finish the facade in any style. And if we take into account the range of prices for products, then such design of buildings is available to the widest segments of the population, regardless of income level.

Features of the technology

It is advisable to plan the work by checking the weather forecast. Any plaster composition contains water. The quality of finishing the walls of a house largely depends on the uniform drying of each applied layer. Therefore, the best conditions are considered to be: absence of wind, normal humidity (within 55-65%) and positive temperatures from 5 to 25 °C. With others, there is a risk of cracks appearing on the plaster mesh due to intense evaporation of moisture or, conversely, its crystallization.

Various compositions are used for the external design of facades. In the private sector, residential buildings are usually finished with decorative plasters. Let's consider the whole range of measures using bark beetle products.

1. Facade preparation.

Dismantling old cladding.
Thorough cleaning.
Elimination of defects (sinks, cracks, etc.).
Leveling the surface. For what? This is not done for certain types of plasters, since they themselves, by definition, serve to eliminate the curvature of the base. But since the bark beetle composition is quite expensive, such preliminary preparation will reduce its consumption, thereby reducing the total cost of decorating the facade of a private house.

2. Primer treatment.

This technological operation has several goals.

Firstly, the dust fractions remaining on the facade of the house will be reliably “nailed”, which means that the glue for fixing the insulation will not form clumps.
Secondly, the quality of bonding between the bark beetle and the base material will improve.
Thirdly, the plaster used for leveling will not crumble.

3. Installation of the profile strip.

The most effective insulation for a home is the exterior. Since any plaster is an elastic composition, a rigid material, Penoplex, is chosen as insulation. To determine the lower level of fastening of its plates, the so-called starting rail is set. It also serves as a kind of channel for partial removal of condensate from the facade.

4. Fastening the insulation.

The plates are fixed to the facade using special glue. The back side is coated according to various patterns (depending on the dimensions of the Penoplex) - along the perimeter, crosswise, spotwise over the entire area. The wall is also treated with adhesive.

What to consider:

The glue is only frost-resistant, and specifically for working with foam plastics.
The slabs of each level are mounted offset relative to the bottom one so that a solid vertical seam does not form.
After the glue has completely dried (the time depends on the composition and air temperature), the insulation is additionally fixed using special dowels (available for sale).

5. Reinforcement.

It allows you to further increase the strength of the exterior finish. The technique is simple - coat the insulation with glue (about 1.5 mm thick) - press in the mesh - apply another layer of adhesive.

In terms of durability, you should attach a plastic mesh rather than a metal one. The latter, even galvanized, will corrode over time, and rust spots will begin to appear on the Bark Beetle.
The optimal mesh density for plaster is in the range of 140-160 g/m2.
After the glue has completely cured, the facade is once again finished with primer.

6. Applying plaster.

It is better to knead the bark beetle mechanically - a low-speed electric drill + attachment. The cost of the latter is about 180 rubles, although the simplest “butterfly” is easy to make yourself from wire. The technology for preparing the solution is specified by the manufacturer, so you should follow the requirements of the instructions supplied with the plaster.

To avoid noticeable joints between layers, it is necessary to finish the entire area of the wall at once. With this calculation, the composition (by volume) is prepared.
The first layer is the so-called spray layer. It serves as a basis for applying the bark beetle, and ordinary plaster (cement + sand) can be used for this purpose.

The finishing finish is applied thinly, spread with force, until small scratches appear. After this, the facade is smoothed. The movements are light, without pressure, circular. The goal is to achieve uniformity of the layer over the entire area. After this, you need to wait for some time (about 15 minutes), since the slightly dried plaster will not stick to the grater.

The final processing is carried out with a little pressure, and at this stage the required pattern can be formed on the facade. Its complexity and originality depend entirely on the skills of the master. And the bark beetle in this regard provides great finishing opportunities.