Some dogs behave poorly on the street: they pull on the leash, and they can jerk the leash sharply if they see another dog, cat or bird. This is not a reason to spank your dog or apply pressure to your dog. Some dogs may respond to you for such treatment. If you love dogs and understand their habits, then you will definitely find an approach to the pet entrusted to you. More experienced employees of our Company and regular seminars with a dog handler, which take place 1-2 times a month in Zelenograd on Saturdays or Sundays, will help you with this.

Often dogs start misbehaving because they have nothing else to do. They're simply bored. While walking, you should keep your pet busy with something interesting. Alternate repetition of commands with games and regular walking, when the dog can calmly go about its business. The dog will become interested in you, and it will spend much less time looking for adventures. You won’t be so bored and monotonous wandering down the street with your dog for an hour. Remember that any job becomes loved when it begins to bring joy, in addition to money.

Be realistic. It's better to start small and have room to grow.

Are you ready to spend all your time on this work or are you forced to combine it with other work or study?

Are you willing to give up another job to work with dogs?

Are you planning to get an education in the field of working with animals?

How much time a day are you willing to spend walking with animals? For example, you are studying and need additional income. Then you will not have time to work during the exam session, although you will be able to plan your schedule quite flexibly the rest of the time. In any case, you should inform your employer in advance about when you will be busy, so that your absence from work does not become a “pleasant” surprise for clients.

Suppose you decide to devote yourself entirely to working with animals. Are you ready to work on weekends? More work means more money. Usually all beginners think that they will work hard. But practice shows that most people are capable of much only in words.

If you want to earn a decent salary in our company and move up the career ladder, you must establish yourself as a responsible employee whom we can trust.

You must understand that mountains of gold will not fall on your head immediately, but wages grow gradually. A successful work schedule in your area at convenient hours and for good money does not happen right away. You should think about whether you are choosing the right place to work. Perhaps you should go to work for a large organization as a top manager or director, and our modest proposal for working with dogs is completely inappropriate for your boundless talents.

In our Company it is possible to earn up to 35,000 rubles. per month, if you devote your entire time to working with dogs. If you consider this type of activity as a part-time job, then you can earn from 3,000 rubles. up to 15,000 rub. per month. All that is required for this is your desire.

If you think that you deserve a higher salary, think about the fact that a standard office employee, of whom there are millions, receives about 20,000-30,000 rubles per month. with an eight- or nine-hour working day.

Perhaps you want to open the same business working with animals. You must remember that you must:

• Be at your workplace 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.
• Recruit employees, conduct interviews, properly allocate human resources, train employees, monitor their work, and be responsible for their actions in the workplace.
• Trust your employees and hope that they will follow your instructions exactly as you voice them and follow them at all. Trust and understanding in the team is important here, since all responsibility to the client for the actions of your employees lies with you.
• Maintain strict financial records, pay taxes, pay salaries to employees on time and cover other Company expenses.
• Work with clients and make sure they are satisfied in any case. Even when they should be dissatisfied.
• Develop the work of the Company in general and the advertising department in particular. After all, good advertising is the key to the success of your Company.
• Conduct company affairs legally.

And this is not all that you must do constantly and “perfectly”.

Most importantly, you must love dogs endlessly and be ready to devote your whole life to them. Only in this case will success await you. Cold calculation alone is not appropriate when working with living beings.

Our Company has certain Working Rules for employees.

You shouldn't hope that in this case the rules are there to be broken. We have work checking employees who can come to your workplace at any time and check your consciousness.

We warn you that employees who do not know or ignore the Company’s rules do not work for us for more than two weeks.

Number of dog walking vacancies on the site over the past 2 months

In the general list, the request page occupies position 0. The average salary is 45,000 rubles. Dog walking work in Russia. There are 6 vacancies available for full-time dog walking jobs. The most common type of employment is full-time. Possibility to select frequency values ​​of the form of employment, such as: “full”, “partial”. The number of vacancies in this specialty in all regions of the country reaches 178 positions. Dog walking jobs belong to the same category as the following specializations:. The second name (synonym) for this specialization is dog walking. The maximum salary for all vacancies specializing in dog walking is 100,000 rubles this month. The median salary in this category in Russia is 45,000 rubles. Regions of Russia where the specialty “dog walking” is most in demand:

Number of “dog walking” vacancies on the website in Russian cities
Median salary for “dog walking” vacancy for 2 months

Among the employers in need of dog walking specialists are:

Distribution schedule for dog walking vacancies by salary

• "Private person";
• "RHYTHM OF THE CITY, LLC";
• "Barrymore";

The average salary among vacancies in the dog walking specialization is 45,000 rubles, the category of which includes dog walking is a very popular group of applicants. The minimum salary (in numerical format) for vacancies for the current request per month is 20,000 rubles. This specialization has a number of similar vacancies:

• “A worker is needed for a dog kennel”;
• "Live-in housekeeper";
• "Cynologist".

Dozens of books have been written about training and hundreds of copies have been broken in virtual and real disputes. In fact, most often both participants in such a dispute are right, it’s just that dogs are different, and the methods work differently. I will tell you about ten cases from my practice, each of which relates to one of the specific situations in working with dogs, which, nevertheless, from time to time anyone and many people have to find themselves in. Of course, you may not encounter all ten situations, but one or two can certainly happen to your dog over the years of your life.

1. A dog with a weak nervous system

If you have to work with an aggressive or dominant dog, then everything is generally clear and spelled out many times. But what to do with a dog that has a weak nervous system? In the case of service training, kennels of the Ministry of Internal Affairs and the army, everything is clear - such dogs are considered a cull, not suitable for full training, but in the case when this is someone’s pet and already beloved dog, the owner wants to work with it, and not look for a replacement to a friend. What to do?

I recently had the opportunity to meet such a dog again, and I will write based on very fresh impressions. First of all, a dog with a weak nervous system needs to increase self-esteem and self-confidence, create a comfort zone in the places where it happens to be. So, for example, if a dog pees in an elevator out of fear, bring it there more often, not only when you need to go, pet it, feed it there. It’s better to do this in the evenings, when almost all the neighbors are already at home, so as not to prevent them from getting home by taking the elevator, but you definitely need to find such time. The same is true for a car, if the dog is terrified of your car.

Such a dog will have to be trained to be around people and near cars. The first times this will be extremely stressful for the dog, and a short journey of three hundred meters can take up to half an hour. If you see that the dog is very stressed - trembling slightly, completely tucking its tail, falling on its paws - stop, let it exhale, and get comfortable at least at this point. Stroke her behind the ears, on the sides, on the belly, scratch above the tail. All this helps the dog relax. And only when you see that she has returned to a more or less normal state, move on. You will have to do this several times a week, then - in the second week - start increasing the number of passes, first to two, then to three, each time reducing the time. Then – change directions and goals of movement. It is important that each exercise takes no more than 20-30 minutes, otherwise the load on the dog’s nervous system will be excessive. After this, you need to let her rest in a familiar place and let her run around.

At some point, the dog will begin to turn into aggression out of fear - don’t be alarmed, this is normal. Her nervous system is gradually overcoming stress, the tension is looking for a way out. If you can transform her reactions from panic fear to aggression, then it will be much easier to work with. Quite a lot of literature on training has been written about how to stop aggression in a dog, and there are materials about this on our forum.

2. The dog is too cowardly

Excessive cowardice is not at all the same as fear caused by weakness of the nervous system. If in the first case the dog will cling to the ground, fall on its paws, and pee from fear in the literal sense of the word, then in the second case it becomes dangerous, because out of cowardice it can bite, deciding that “I’d better bite, otherwise he’ll bite, and he’s big and scary.” This is roughly what it looks like if we translate it into human-understandable analogies. Of course, in the literal sense, such thoughts do not enter the dog’s head, but the logic of its actions is something like this.

Such a dog needs to be shown, on the one hand, the pointlessness of displaying aggression, reacting by harshly suppressing it, and on the other hand, make it clear that the “big and scary” ones do not plan to attack. Here you cannot do without the use of other dogs, large but calm. You will have to find at least several large dogs, both females and males, that you can bring to communicate with an overly cowardly dog, forming a calm attitude towards potentially dangerous objects and finally dulling the fear of them. But it is important to carefully monitor that such a dog itself does not show aggression first, otherwise any, even a very calm dog, will respond, and this can negate all your work, and even lead to injuries. Dogs must be kept under the control of their owners. The aggression of such a dog must be stopped sharply, but not too harshly.

After you manage to achieve a calm presence of an excessively cowardly dog ​​with other animals, you can begin to do the same with people. You will need several different people, previously unknown to the dog, who will come to your place of walking with one goal - to pet the dog. The owner’s task is to stop possible aggression and ensure that the dog allows itself to be petted, without a muzzle, and takes food from the guest. Since such dogs are not suitable for guard and protective training, this is possible and sometimes even necessary in order to form a positive attitude towards people in the dog instead of excessive fear and an aggressive defensive reaction. People should associate her with something good, not something bad.

3. An adult dog does not have a fully formed hierarchy

It happens that dog owners, for one reason or another, refuse to form hierarchical behavior in the dog or do not know that this is necessary. I recently had to work with a dog whose owner was sincerely trying to build what she called an “equal relationship” with her dog. The result of this was that the medium-sized dog began to feel like the main one in their home “pack”, despite the fact that he is not alpha in character and it is difficult for him, and the owner was faced with the dog’s incomprehensible and, in her opinion, unmotivated aggression towards others dogs.


The beginning of work in this case is not directly with the aggressive behavior of the dog, but with a change in the behavior of the owners themselves at home and while walking. In particular, it is necessary to correct such common mistakes as feeding the dog before the owners themselves have eaten, sleeping on the bed or on chairs, etc. (there is already an article on our website and forum about how to form hierarchical behavior, and other authors also have them available). Working with the formation of a hierarchy in an adult dog is much longer and more complex than with a puppy, since the dog will actively resist being displaced from its habitual role, but without this it is impossible to correct the unwanted behavior that causes difficulties. And only after the formation of the correct hierarchy of relationships with the animal can you fully work with the consequences, including unwanted aggression - now it will be more logical and understandable for the dog itself.

4. A hunting dog and the appearance of a cat in the house

Getting a cat in a house where there lives a hunting dog, which actually went out to hunt and was baited to hunt the animal, is a difficult but realistic task. True, at first the owners will have to monitor the animals very, very carefully so that a tragedy does not happen.

In this case, you should take into the house only a small kitten, no older than one month, since even a hunting dog has a different attitude towards cubs, like any other animal. Cubs smell noticeably different than adult animals; they are not touched. Therefore, a small kitten will not immediately be perceived by a hunting dog as prey. However, already at 3-4 months the situation may begin to change, and by six months, if not earlier, the kitten will be perceived as an adult, and here the owner’s task is to make it as clear as possible to the dog that this is not prey, but a member of the pack. The kitten should be held in your arms and stroked as often as possible, it should sleep with you or on your slightly worn things (on a shirt, for example, or on a blanket under which you were sitting). In a word, the smell of the dog’s owners should always remain on it, which cannot in any way be characteristic of an animal that is considered prey.

5. Adopt an adult dog into a family with a child

Taking an adult dog into your home is always difficult, but especially so in a family with a child. Often, shelters do not give animals to such families at all, refusing them, but dogs can come from the street or from former owners, and such situations still arise. I will say on my own behalf that I do not consider it justified to completely deny such families the opportunity to adopt a dog from a shelter; they often become loving and caring owners, but this situation, of course, will require more attention and effort than most other options.

It is best to introduce an adult dog to a child right away, and at home. The dog should see the child already living in this territory as soon as it enters there. The smell from him is already similar to the smells of adults, and there are his scents on him - the hugs of his parents, for example, leave him quite perceptible for the dog. At first, it is better not to allow the child to feed the dog; this should be done by adults, teaching the dog to a certain order, but after a while, on the contrary, make sure that the child also feeds it from time to time. Whether he is married to everyone or not, but before the dog, so that she does not have the idea that this cub might not be obeyed if anything happens. In this case, it is absolutely forbidden to feed the dog treats from the table! At least until you are completely sure of it and the child is old enough.

6. A dog that lived on the street needs to be brought into the house.

It also happens that you need to take into your house, into a city apartment, a dog that previously lived in the village yard or in the country. Adult children take their elderly parents to the city, or, on the contrary, they die, and there is no one else for the dog to stay in the yard with, and they have to take it to the city.

The most difficult thing in this case is to teach your pet to go outside when necessary, to ask to go there. If the dog lived in the yard and in the house, then this is not so bad, you just need to teach him to endure longer than he is accustomed to, but if in the yard in a kennel, at first it cannot be avoided that the dog simply will not understand why he asks to go outside for this. , and at the same time he can easily just ask to go outside just like that, for a walk, for a run. You will have to be patient and work with an adult dog in almost the same way as you usually do with a puppy, taking them out immediately after feeding, which will have to be done several times a day, and only when the dog gets used to going outside can you again reduce the number of feedings to normal for an adult dogs 2 times a day.

7. Overcoming fear of heights in dogs, including adults

The fear of heights is generally inherent in dogs, unlike cats, but when it comes to a puppy, he is often driven by curiosity, and he overcomes his fear much more easily than an adult dog. And even to what he considers scary. With an adult dog, you will have to start by making him linger in a situation of fear, and calm him down right at this moment, achieving, if not complete overcoming of fear, then at least relative calm, absence of panic. In the future, depending on what causes fear, you can work with it gradually, like what happens with a puppy. The stress method, suitable for an adult dog and even improving its learning, described here (that same being in a situation of fear) is not suitable for a puppy, this is important to remember! If you work with them this way, you can disrupt the nervous system. And with an adult dog, you also need to be careful not to go too far, as they say.

8. Accustoming an aggressive dog to a temporary handler/foster

Sometimes you have to ask someone to walk your dog, or leave it temporarily with friends, or ask them to come walk the dog. This does not cause problems with a calm and sociable dog, but an aggressive dog or a dog trained for protection may react badly to this; such a dog will have to be specially accustomed to a new person and act as its temporary guide, walker and, so to speak, acting owner.

It is imperative to introduce someone who will have to temporarily take care of the dog, otherwise the person risks being bitten by your pet if it is inclined to show aggression and actively guard the territory. It is better to start this in advance, two weeks before the expected temporary transfer. First, introduce the dog to this person while walking, next time invite him home, then let him feed the dog in front of you. He will have to feed the dog all subsequent times until your departure. Even later - go out for a walk together, first the owner takes the dog out, then hands the leash to the person with whom she will stay. Next time, this person will take the dog out himself, the owner will only be present and intervene as necessary with commands. And only after that you can let the person and the dog out for a walk. If everything is fine and the contact is established correctly, the dog will obey him during the walk.


Important! Under no circumstances should you test this by calling your dog to you! Of course, the dog will react to you, as the owner, and will run to you. But this, firstly, will worsen the control of your “deputy” over the dog, and, secondly, it can create a dangerous situation when the dog can jump out onto the road.

9. Correction of unwanted eating behavior (including picking up on the street)

Now I’m not talking about the classic development of the “Fu!” command, but about cases when, as they say, it’s easier to kill than to stop picking up. It happens that they take in an adult dog and its eating behavior is disrupted, or their own dog, who has grown up from a puppy, does not wean itself from picking up. If the traditional methods described in training manuals do not work, you can use a trick. For example, if your dog is constantly picking up food, you can scatter tasty pieces along the walking path in advance, stuffed with mustard or hot pepper on the inside. This should not be done with puppies, whose taste buds may be damaged, but with an adult dog, if there is no other way. Finding this “dish” a couple of times helped many dogs stop picking up delicious-smelling pieces on the street. However, it must be said right away that this connection is not installed at once; be prepared to do this manipulation at least several times.

Another tricky option is to scare the dog every time he tries to pick something up. It is better if this is done not by you, but by a stranger. You can also combine both of these options.

What definitely won’t help in the fight against unwanted eating behavior is trying to “leave the house without dinner” if the dog ate something on the street. They are not able to establish such a logical connection, and the dog, of course, will sit hungry, but this will not affect the situation for the better, and may even play exactly the opposite way.

10. Accustoming the dog to unusual/extreme types of movement

Sometimes it happens that a dog has to be accustomed to a completely unusual, extreme movement. For example, you may need to go on a flight with your adult dog. To prevent the flight from becoming a serious test for you, your pet, and the aircraft staff, it is better to prepare a little in advance. The fact is that the most difficult thing about flying for a dog is that it finds itself very far off the ground; altitude is generally a very difficult moment for dogs. This and the change in pressure together make the flight extremely unpleasant for the animal. And if we cannot train the habit of changing pressure in everyday conditions, then it is possible to accustom a pet to heights and the state of “paws off the ground.” You'll have to look for stairs on the sides of houses, there are these in almost every city, along which you can climb to the second or third floor, or even higher. Ordinary stairs on the UDP (training site) are also good, but only as an initial stage or for small dogs. The task in this case is to ensure that the dog feels calm at altitude. Gradually, at first she simply walks to this height, then she can be fed and watered there, and finally her rug can be brought there from home and laid there. After several times of such rest at altitude, the dog will find the flight much easier, especially if you put this familiar rug in the container for air transportation.

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