Going on vacation or long journey, you always take a camera with you to capture the bright moments of life, but how to take photographs with a DSLR camera correctly and what parameters to pay attention to so that the photo makes you happy?

In this article we will look at all the parameters that you will need for proper photography while traveling, we will try to present everything in a way that is clear even to a novice photographer. After reading our article, you will no longer wonder how to properly photograph landscapes, portraits, architecture and other areas of photography. But first, read our articles about this and that.

Passing more and more different countries In the world, we are seeing the transition of all travelers to SLR cameras, but most of them, having bought a device for artistic photography, take photographs in automatic modes. Why pay that kind of money if the traveler doesn't even want to see what potential it holds? reflex camera? Or maybe he just doesn’t know how to take photographs correctly, perhaps that’s where we’ll start.

You can get photos like this if you follow the basic rules.

We'll start with matrices camera The most important parameter for proper photography is the matrix; the larger the physical size of the matrix, the larger it will be throughput light, which means the photo will be much richer and brighter in colors. On budget SLR cameras, the matrix size is 23x15 (crop matrix). In professional technology, the physical size of the matrix is ​​36×24 (full frame or Fullframe), with a full-frame matrix you can get amazing photos, but to properly photograph an object you will need some other parameters that are worth paying attention to.

Size of the cropped sensor relative to the full-frame sensor

A camera with more megapixels. For a modern SLR camera, a number of 18 megapixels or more is quite suitable, but many factories, under the guidance of marketers, manage to cram a huge number of megapixels into the small matrix of some point-and-shoot camera, which is impossible given its small physical size. You shouldn't expect perfect photos from such cameras! Let's give some advice, pay attention to Nikon series SLR cameras from D7000 onwards, Sony alpha series, Canon EOS with two or better one digit before D"" (for example Canon EOS 60D).

All of the above series of cameras have a matrix that is not suitable for a wide range of consumer market, which means the quality of the matrix remained at high level in contrast to the lower series of these cameras, which are well promoted by marketers and which people fall for so well because of their low price. To the question of how to take photographs correctly and choose a good matrix, you already know half of the answers, but which mode is better to choose?

Manual modes are highlighted in red

Another parameter for proper photography is depth of field. Now you need to forget all the standard modes (auto, portrait, landscape...) and start using the “ Av, Tv, M, P”, for Nikon these are modes “ A,P,S,M” and others. For the depth of field mode, we need the “ Av” from Canon or “ A” from Nikon. In this mode, you can change the aperture number, which can vary from 1,2 to 22 .

Notice the blurry background

You've probably seen it more than once good photographers They take a photo with a blurred background, this is the depth of field and it depends on the aperture. How less number aperture, the more you can blur the background, but first you need to focus on the subject you want to highlight. For example, to properly photograph a portrait, you need to set your aperture to around 1.4 to 5.6. To photograph a landscape correctly, you need to set a number from 11 to 22, from such numbers the depth of field will be at its limit and the image will turn out sharp and realistic.

The second point to take into account is that the focal length of the lens also affects the depth of field. The longer the focal length, the more the background behind the subject is blurred. The wider the lens angle, the less blur there will be.

Another factor that influences the question of how to photograph correctly is the distance from the lens to the subject and from the subject to the background. Let us explain, portraits need to be taken at a closer approach, having first set the depth of field to the minimum value (for example, set it to 1.4).

Here you see a blurred background in the distance and the subject two meters from the lens

For proper photographing of portraits, there are prime lenses or portrait lenses with a focal length of 35-85mm (for such lenses the minimum aperture value is from 1.2). With such lenses, you are guaranteed a blurred background if the subject is far from the background and you have set the minimum depth of field.

Let’s go further to understand the question of “how to take photographs correctly,” for this you need to study the shutter speed parameters. Nikon's shutter mode is designated "S", Canon's is designated "Tv". This mode is used extremely rarely and is needed mainly for artistic photography. For example, in order to correctly photograph a river that is frozen in your picture, we need to take a shutter speed of about 5 seconds, after such a shutter speed we will get this...

The camera is in the shade and the shutter speed is set to 5 seconds

If you decide to experiment with shutter speed, be sure to have a tripod, otherwise the entire image will turn out blurry. Shutter speed should only be used in the evening or at night, daytime the photo will turn out just white due to large quantity incident light during a long exposure time. It is also worth considering that in this mode the matrix is ​​especially susceptible to breakdowns and can simply burn out from the sun, for this they use neutral density filters or install the camera in the shade, the filters are put on the lenses and protect the matrix from overheating.

Let's reveal a little secret, if you don't have such a filter at hand, then use regular ones. sunglasses, from which the artistic effect will change your photo for the better. But sometimes, even with the longest shutter speed that can be set on the camera (up to 30 minutes), the image is still dark; ISO will come to our aid, being another answer to the question of how to take photographs correctly.

The photo was taken on Lake Baikal using sunglasses instead of a filter

Light sensitivity (ISO), set when you decide to take a photo in dark time days. At night, when your photo turns out to be dark, but with a flash the photo turns out to be light and flat, the ISO parameter comes to the rescue, which should not be abused. Its value can be set from 100 to 12000 or more, depending on the SLR camera.

The photo was taken in the Tunkinskaya Valley with the ISO setting set incorrectly

To take photographs correctly with this setting, we recommend not increasing the ISO value to more than 6400; then “noise” begins to form in the shadows and your photo loses quality. In order to properly photograph an object at night, of course, many will start using a standard flash; we’ll talk about this parameter separately!

If you decide to find answers to the question of how to take photographs correctly, then forget about the standard flash. A photograph with such a flash turns out to be overly light and flat in volume, if you have extra money, then be sure to buy an external flash, you will take a huge step towards proper photography.

The photo was taken at 3 a.m. Russian city with external flash

At worst, you can use the regular built-in flash, but with a little secret. So, let's take the usual one white sheet A4 format and close the flash, in this case the sheet will serve as a light diffuser and will give the image light, light, three-dimensional tones, and also remove the “red-eye effect”. This method is good to use in a dark room or at dusk.

On the path to success in the question of how to take photographs correctly, let’s go further and consider the sharpness of the lens. No landscape is complete without sharpness; to get the sharpest image, let's take a look at the lens parameters. The sharpest lenses are prime lenses; zoom lenses lose in this regard; they have blur at wide and far angles.

In order to take a high-quality, sharp and correct photograph of an object, to highlight it from the main plan, you definitely need a prime lens! But there is one big secret - all lenses have their own maximum sharpness number, this number can be calculated by taking several test shots at each depth of field and viewing the results on the big screen. Typically, lens sharpness starts from 2.8 to 11.

The haystack is located at two points where the lines intersect - Perfect composition!

Another most famous and main answer to the question of how to take photographs correctly is the rule of the golden ratio. Divide your image into two horizontal lines and two vertical lines, so the main subject should be at the two points where the lines intersect. Don't forget to photograph the landscape correctly. If, for example, you are shooting the sea and the sky, then either the sea or the sky should occupy more than half the frame (2/3 of the frame). This rule is called correct frame composition and is one of the important parameters of successful photography.

According to the 2/3 rule, the sky is only 1/3, because the entire subject of the photograph is located in a haystack located on the ground

How to photograph a portrait correctly and not cut off anything unnecessary? To do this you will need the cheat sheet below...

Proper portrait framing

We have considered all the technical parameters on the question of how to take photographs correctly, now we will consider ordinary life parameters that should not be forgotten in everyday photography and which will make it possible to ideally and correctly photograph the subjects.

The first thing you need to do is check the battery charge and take a spare battery with you, you will need it at the most opportune moment in your life. Don’t forget to check the capacity of your memory card when leaving home; sometimes it is full and there is only one copy of the photos on it. Don't forget, the more discharged the battery, the more autofocus will miss the subject.

For proper photography, you should also pay attention to the dust on the camera mirrors and lens glass; you can easily check this by photographing a light, plain background. To remove dust, use only a special pencil or other cleaning products for optics and the device.

Cleaning pencil for camera lenses and mirrors

Let's continue to get answers to the question of how to take photographs correctly and don't forget the attributes for the camera, if you're shooting in the dark - don't forget to take an external flash and a tripod, shoot artistic photography for long exposures - don’t forget photo filters, a tripod and other accessories.

To take the right approach to photography, don’t forget to dress appropriately for the weather. Before you start shooting, check all your camera settings so you don’t miss important point, select the optimal mode and settings for shooting. If suddenly the battery runs out during shooting, and you have not yet photographed the object you want, turn off the screen, switch to manual lens focusing mode and lens stabilizer.

If water or sand gets into the camera, the first thing to do is remove the battery and do not insert it until the camera is completely dry. If you have a hairdryer at hand, that’s just great. Sand is a different story; sand can cause mechanical damage to the internal mechanisms of the camera and then you are guaranteed expensive repairs.

By following all these rules and site recommendations described above, you can definitely succeed in photography. But in order to increase your authority in your own eyes, we recommend communicating with photographers on specialized websites and forums, exhibiting your photographs at various thematic exhibitions on the Internet, sometimes even making money from it.

Mount Elbrus was photographed at 5 a.m. to capture all the colors of artistic photography.

Well, all the answers to the question of how to take photographs correctly were written and shown. In order to learn how to photograph correctly, you must always experiment and forget about standard modes photographing. At first, pictures in manual modes will turn out dark, blurry and of poor quality, but after you take several hundred frames with different settings, you will see all the possibilities of a SLR camera using examples of your work!

Probably every novice photographer who is seriously passionate about his craft sooner or later thinks about buying a DSLR camera. However, you should not think that just purchasing a “DSLR” is enough to start creating masterpieces.

Of course, most SLR cameras are equipped with good automatic settings that allow you to take quite decent amateur photos - but it’s much more pleasant to use the capabilities of your camera to the maximum. And believe me, it can do a lot - you just need to learn how to use it correctly.

So, let's start talking about how to properly photograph with a DSLR camera.

Focus and depth of field

Surely, when looking at the work of professional photographers on the Internet or in magazines, you paid attention to the difference in sharpness between the foreground and background. The main subject of the photo appears sharp and clear, while the background appears blurred.

It is almost impossible to achieve such an effect with an amateur camera, and this is due to the smaller size of the matrix. The sharpness of such images is evenly distributed across the entire screen, that is, all details have approximately the same clarity.

This isn't always a bad thing, and is great for landscapes or architecture, but when shooting portraits, a well-designed background will distract from the main subject and the overall photo will look flat.

SLR camera, having large size matrix, allows you to adjust the depth of field.

Depth of field of the imaged space (DOF)– the range between the front and rear edges of the sharp area in the photograph, that is, exactly that part of the image that the photographer highlights in the picture.

What affects the depth of field and how to learn to control it? One such factor is focal length. Focusing is the aiming of the lens at the object, providing it with maximum sharpness. DSLR cameras have several focusing modes, from which you have to choose the most suitable one for specific shooting conditions. Let's look at each one separately.

• Single autofocus – the most popular and convenient mode in static conditions, in which focusing is carried out, as mentioned above, by half-pressing the shutter button. Its undoubted advantage is the ability to change the position of the camera at your discretion without lifting your finger from the button. The object you select will remain in focus. The disadvantage of this mode is the delay created by the need to re-focus on the object each time.
• Continuous autofocus – A mode suitable for shooting moving subjects. The focus moves along with the subject, so you don't have to re-focus each time. Of course, this mode has a number of errors: due to changes in speed and distance, the device is not always able to focus as desired, and not every frame will turn out successful. However, the chances of doing at least a few good pictures are also quite large.
• Mixed autofocus – a combination of the first two options. When activated, the camera shoots in the first mode exactly until the object begins to move, and then automatically switches to the second. This shooting mode is well suited for beginners because the camera takes care of focusing problems, leaving the photographer free to focus on composition and other factors.

Learn how to get rid of it early in your career and your path will be easier.

Always try to develop and improve. In addition to practice, theory will also be useful: large selection photo sites for photographers.

Good light is essential for high-quality portrait work. You can find out how to make a softbox with your own hands at this address:

Shutter speed and aperture

The second factor influencing depth of field is aperture value.

The aperture regulates the amount of light transmitted to the lens. sun rays, opening and closing the lens shutters. The more open the door is, the more light it lets in. It is with its help that you can distribute the sharpness in the picture and achieve the creative effect you need.

You need to remember a simple relationship:

The smaller the aperture opening, the greater the depth of field.

If the aperture is closed, sharpness is evenly distributed throughout the frame. An open aperture makes it possible to blur the background or other less significant objects, leaving sharp only what you want to focus your camera on.

Excerpt– the period of time during which the shutter is open. Thus, the number of light rays that manage to pass inside depends on the duration of this interval. Of course, this directly affects the look of your photo. The longer the shutter speed, the more “blurry” the objects will be. A short shutter speed, on the contrary, makes them static.

In stable lighting, shutter speed and aperture are directly proportional to each other: the more open the aperture, the shorter the shutter speed - and vice versa. Why this is so is not difficult to guess. Both affect the amount of light needed for your photo. If the aperture is wide open, the amount of light is already sufficient and a long shutter speed is not required.

Photosensitivity

Light sensitivity (ISO)– the sensitivity of the matrix to light when the aperture is opened.

You don’t have to set the ISO value yourself either - you can use the automatic mode, in which the camera will select it itself. But in order to understand what photosensitivity is and what it affects, it’s better to take at least a few shots, raising and lowering ISO and comparing the results.

Its high or maximum value allows you to take pictures in low light conditions, thus being an alternative to flash. This will be an ideal solution for you in situations where flash photography is prohibited - for example, at concerts or other official events.

Also, ISO will help you out in situations where a wide open aperture and a slow shutter speed result in a too dark image. But when experimenting with ISO, you will quickly notice that increasing its value also increases the amount of noise in the frame. This is an inevitable effect, but it can be smoothed out, for example, using graphic editors.

Shooting modes

A DSLR camera has a wide range of shooting modes, which can be divided into manual and automatic. The latter roughly correspond to similar modes on an amateur camera: they are called “Sports”, “Landscape”, “Night Portrait”, etc.

When you select this mode, the camera automatically selects the settings needed for the given conditions, and you don't have to worry about anything else. This is quite convenient, and photographs taken in such modes can be quite successful. And yet, if you set your SLR camera to manual settings, then you are provided with creative freedom, and a person planning to take photography seriously needs to be familiar with them.

So, what are they manual shooting modes are at our disposal?

• P (programmed)— a mode similar to AUTO, but leaving more room for independent actions. Using it, you can independently change the ISO and white balance, as well as correct the shutter speed and aperture automatically set by the camera. All other settings, as in automatic mode, will be selected by the caring camera itself.
• Av (aperture)- a mode that allows you to set the aperture value at your own discretion, without worrying about shutter speed - the camera will select it on its own. Great for portraits and other depth of field experiments.
• S(shutter)– in contrast to the previous option, this is a shutter priority mode. It is easy to guess that in this case the camera will automatically set the aperture. Suitable for shooting moving and dynamic subjects.
• M (manual)– a truly manual mode, in which the camera no longer interferes at all. All settings here: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO are at your discretion. With this mode, you can give yourself complete creative freedom and try a variety of combinations in unusual shooting conditions. Of course, you should use this mode only when you really understand the settings of your camera and approach the matter with knowledge.

In everyday, natural shooting the best and easiest way is to use Av mode. It is the most convenient for controlling the depth of field and allows you to completely surrender to the artistic process of creating the best composition.

Flash

Built-in flash– a faithful assistant when shooting in low light conditions. But it, like other features of a SLR camera, needs to be used wisely. If handled incorrectly, there is a high probability of ruining the frame by exposing it. Here are some tips to help you avoid this:

• Use manual flash power control, the value of which can be reduced when receiving too bright frames.
• Try it switch the camera to automatic “Night Shot” mode. Unlike AUTO, in this mode the flash action is “softened”, and the light is slightly scattered around the subject, without being fixed only on it.
• Experiment with light scattering(we wrote how to do it here). To do this, you can use white cloth, paper or any other material that will need to be fixed before the flash. But you should not use materials dyed in other colors for this purpose - they can give the skin the wrong shade and generally have a bad effect on the photo.
• Use your camera's modes discussed above - ISO, aperture and shutter speed. Having tried different options, you will be able to find exactly the one that will make your pictures successful.

White balance

The camera matrix is ​​more sensitive human eye and is sensitive to color temperature. You've probably seen photographs with strange lighting effects: faces in them may appear blue, green, or orange. This often happens when shooting in rooms lit with incandescent lamps. Setting the white balance on your camera will help correct the situation.

Of course you can use automatic setup (AWB), but then there will still be a risk of error. The best thing to do is to “tell” the camera what color white is, which can be done using manual mode (MWB). First, you will need to select manual white balance in your camera's menu.

After this, it is enough to take any white object, for example, a sheet of paper, photograph it, and record the color as correct. The algorithm may differ depending on the model of your camera, but if difficulties arise, the instructions will help you out.

Choose a DSLR to start

When choosing photographic equipment to start with, a novice photographer should know about some important details, which you should definitely pay attention to when selecting SLR cameras. It is clear that you should not start working on expensive equipment. And not only because of the high price, primarily because, without knowing the basics, mastering the functions of a “sophisticated” camera will not only be difficult, but often impossible. Inexpensive cameras have a lot of tips and automatic modes, which are simply necessary at the start.

Particular attention should be paid to the resolution of the matrix. These are exactly the pixels that are indicated in the main characteristics and on the camera body. But remember that for beginners it is better to choose a DSLR with a crop matrix.

If you're serious about photography, choose a technique with manual settings. In the future, this technique will give you good experience and the chance of great opportunities in this field of activity. It’s better to choose the camera itself from the list of the most recommended DSLR models for beginners, which are produced by well-known world manufacturers. Don’t neglect to contact those who have been familiar with photographic equipment for a long time and will help you in choosing the right camera to start with.

If the abundance of complex terms does not scare you, and you are still full of enthusiasm, ready to work and improve, go ahead! Some simple tips will help you on your creative path:

• In order to learn how to take professional photographs with a DSLR, constant practice is required. Try to take your camera with you wherever you go, and don’t miss the opportunity to take a good shot. Develop your artistic thinking! As a photographer, you need to be able to build the desired composition mentally, separate interesting shots from ordinary ones, and be able to notice what someone else wouldn’t pay attention to.
• Explore your camera's modes and try different combinations. Don't be afraid to squat and take different positions to find the best angle. This way you will increase your chances of getting the desired result many times over!
• Draw conclusions based on the finished material. Note your mistakes - you can even keep a special notebook for this - and try to avoid them in the future.
• Consider the work of famous photographers. The more time you spend on this, the more ideas you will gain and the correct conclusions you will draw. On initial stages there is nothing wrong with imitating one of the professionals and copying their work. Over time, you will certainly develop your own style, but at first you should not neglect the experience of others.
• Read relevant literature, watch video tutorials, attend courses, communicate with professional photographers. You need to be fluent in the technical side of the photography process, this will work to your advantage. Before you know it, you will become much more confident in handling the camera.

A DSLR camera is your ticket to the world of professional photography. By working, experimenting, and purchasing additional equipment - such as lenses and flashes - you can achieve the most amazing results. We hope that the information on how to learn to use a SLR camera will be useful to you.

Make the most of your camera, and let him become your reliable friend and assistant in implementing your ideas!

Good day everyone! Timur Mustaev is in touch with you. I, too, was once a beginner in this wonderful business of photography. I had to go through a lot, study a lot of material, necessary and unnecessary, and accordingly spend months of practice before receiving good results. But it will be much easier for you if you carefully read all my articles on the blog. In which I explain in great detail and in simple language all the intricacies of photography.

Dear readers, in my article I am addressing newcomers specifically. Well, it’s time to dot the i’s and start understanding your own expensive toy – your camera! I will try to cover all the necessary basics of photography for beginners in an accessible and fairly brief manner. Professionals, don't go too far! After all, it’s never superfluous to remind yourself of the main technical aspects of photography, about them we'll talk below.

Terminology

There are several key concepts, which are impossible to do without when working with photography. These are aperture, shutter speed and photosensitivity (ISO) - all these three most important parameters are aimed at working with light, that is, they determine the entire exposure. In turn, we can say about a photograph that it is either under- or overexposed, as well as normally exposed. This is precisely related to the selected parameters during the photographing process and means that the resulting image is, respectively, too dark, overexposed, or normally lit. Now let's look at everything in more detail.

• The aperture may look different in appearance, depending on the lens model. Once upon a time it consisted of a rotating disk and holes in it, and which consisted of simple sets of plates. Now, a modern lens consists of a so-called iris diaphragm - a partition consisting of several thin blades (3, 5, 7, etc.). In this form this mechanism has tangible advantages: easy to adjust, small and compact, but still the design is quite fragile.
• Excerpt. The shutter, or curtains, in the camera are responsible for this parameter, and it determines the time the light hits the matrix or film. There are several types of shutters. For example, the old Zenit cameras had a curtain-slot shutter. It must be said that it was quite slow, which is why it had fewer capabilities, but at the same time it could be easily repaired. Also, in principle, there is nothing to break in point-and-shoot cameras, where the shutter is central, similar to a blade diaphragm. Already in Nikon and Canon digital SLR cameras, manufacturers have switched to a lamellar shutter, or a shutter made of three plates. Thanks to it, you can set both long and very short shutter speeds.
• Photosensitivity. You can guess from the name that this is the sensitivity of the camera matrix or film to light. In general, this sensitivity is set initially, and it can only be changed using a special signal amplifier located inside the camera. It is this that allows you to make the photo brighter if the ISO is increased to 200, 400 or more, so that you can shoot in poorly lit conditions. One, there is a problem this process: The higher the ISO, the more likely it is that “noise” will appear in the image, that is, grains that spoil the quality of the frame.

Separately about color

Light in photography is everything; photography is translated as “light painting”. Pay maximum attention to this moment in the photograph. At the same time, we cannot ignore the issue of color. Everyone wants bright, rich and realistic photos? I have no doubt that yes. When talking about image tones, we need to introduce a new term - white balance. This is another camera setting that aims to convey different color characteristics of perceived light in photographs. That is, this is the whole spectrum of colors and their combinations. Usually they talk about warm (red, orange, yellow), cold (green, blue) shades of a photo, as well as neutral and pastel ones.

A lens is a “smart” optical device; it is capable of measuring and calculating the number of light rays in a certain area, and then determining all the colors and shades in the picture. But he may not always cope with his functions perfectly. Therefore, he needs to help - shoot not only in auto white balance mode, but also independently assess what the weather is like outside, whether it’s cloudy, perhaps sunny, or maybe add a little red, etc. Remember that white should be white in your photographs too. Keep an eye on this and, if necessary, set the correct white balance through the camera menu. You can also use color filters to adjust the color effect.

Basic modes

Of course, as a priority, it is advisable to learn how to shoot in manual mode (M) - one in which the photographer sets all the exposure parameters independently. But while you are just learning, I do not recommend you use this mode! Everything has its time. Also, there are other modes of camera operation, when at most you only need to control one shooting parameter, and the camera will take care of the rest. In addition to the manual mode, there is aperture priority (A or Av), shutter priority (S or Tv), semi-automatic (P), where you only need to determine ISO. And, in fact, for the really “lazy” there are creative modes that you select to suit the shooting situation, be it landscape, portrait, etc.

Camera Specifications

No camera is complete without a sensor device. In digital devices, this is a matrix - a device with photosensitive cells that react to light, and in film devices - a flexible tape (film) on which a special material is applied. It is worth noting that digital has a number of advantages over film. And most importantly, the ability to view the image immediately and then carefully process it. The peculiarity of film is that it not only registers a photo, like a matrix, but stores it.

In addition to the sensor, any camera includes a whole set of main and additional components and mechanisms, without which its operation is impossible. Knowing the camera from the inside will not only broaden your horizons, but also enrich your knowledge specifically about the specifics of photography. And this hasn’t hurt anyone, because the more you know about the structure of your equipment, the more efficiently you can work with it!

Let's look at the most important technical characteristics of the camera.

1. Focal length. Not to be confused with the distance from the photographer to the subject! This is a completely different distance of just a few millimeters, and it is measured from the center of the lens to the matrix. Typically, this value is written on the lens barrel itself, for example, 50 mm. It is believed that in terms of focal length, lenses are wide-angle, that is, covering a large viewing angle of the surrounding view, normal and long-focal. The latter are capable of bringing distant objects closer, increasing their scale. They are also called zoom lenses.
2. Aperture is a camera property that means its ability to convey the brightness of a picture. It also has a designation on the lens, for example, 1:1.8. This is very important indicator, which determines the ability to photograph in low light conditions, and, in fact, the price of the optics.
3. Depth of field (DOF) is the area of ​​space in a photograph in which objects (animals, people) appear clear and sharp. This depth of field can be small or large: either some part of the overall picture, or all objects in the frame will be in the zone of sharpness, that is, clearly visible. To adjust the depth of field, you can change the aperture or focal length: the depth decreases when the aperture is open and great importance F.

What are these black dots?

Dear newbie, if you look through your viewfinder, you will see some dark marks there. Don't even think about it, it's not trash! These are just focal points. By the way, a very significant element in the camera. Thanks to these points, the camera is able to automatically focus on an object or several objects in the field of view. You can also adjust the focus using the settings and select each time a specific point in a certain part of the frame where it is located.

Let's say the main subject or character of your photo is slightly off-center, and you decided to photograph it that way. So that it is not blurred, and instead of it there is something completely unnecessary in the foreground, you can simply choose the main point that suits you best from the available ones. This focus point will usually flash red in the viewfinder during the adjustment process.

From personal experience

There was a time when I, too, was just beginning to master the art of photography and seriously wondered where to start? At first, my shooting was limited to turning on the camera, setting it to auto mode and pressing the shutter button... Think about it, to understand the basics of photography, you only needed to know three basic concepts! I can tell you with confidence that there is not much information needed, and it is not scary at all. I hope in this article you were able to verify this.

My advice for young amateur photographers is to start in order. Familiarize yourself with the basic terms, understand what is where, and what it is responsible for. In practice, it is better to take one parameter, play with its value, and after mastering it, move on to the next one. So, for example, if you want to photograph people, then don’t bother with manual mode, select aperture priority, opening and closing it, you can sharpen only one person or an entire group. To capture movement, shutter priority mode will help: a long shutter speed will blur the movement, and a short shutter speed will seem to freeze it. Remember, composition and meaning in photography are very important, but without technical knowledge, you could ruin a potentially perfect shot!

Important! Read your camera user manual in detail. Read it not once, but 3-4, or maybe more. This will help you a lot in your endeavor.

And finally, I want to recommend you a very good video course “ Digital SLR for a beginner 2.0" The author explains the basics of photography in great detail. So many useful tips and chips that you simply need.

Goodbye readers! Good luck to you on your path to mastering the complex and very exciting profession of photography. I would be glad if you start visiting my blog more often, as there are many more interesting, useful and exciting things waiting for you here. Here you will get everything necessary knowledge and information about different secrets and chips of photography. So, subscribe to the news and stay updated!

All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.

This article will be of interest primarily to those who have purchased SLR camera, shoots in automatic mode, but wants to move on.

Let's look at the exposure compensation mode. There are a lot of questions about depth of field and what affects it. When you focus, objects become sharp at a certain distance from the camera. That is, there is a certain plane in which all objects are clearly visible. But this is in the ideal case; in fact, this plane has some assumptions that depend on. The smaller the aperture, the larger these assumptions are (the wider the area where objects are sharp) and vice versa, the larger the aperture, the smaller these assumptions.

For greater clarity, I will give examples of photographs from different meaning and which clearly shows how the depth of field changes depending on its value.

Notice how much the depth of field depends on the f number, which indicates how open the aperture is. I want to clarify two things right away: the first picture is not photoshopped. This actually happens with the aperture fully open. And the fact that the second photo is greatly “stretched” in Photoshop. Don’t be confused by the fact that with the same parameters and shutter speed, it changes, but the photo is not much darker.

A few words about choosing shooting parameters. To begin with, you must decide for yourself whether it is more important for you to “freeze/smear” motion or depth of field. In the first case, your priority is, in the second. For example from personal experience I can say that a shutter speed of 1/60 second when shooting slowly moving or stationary objects (portrait, landscape, walking person, still life, etc.) is enough to get rid of movement and blurred movements. If you are shooting something faster, for example, cars, athletes running or a flying bird, then the shutter speed should be reduced to 1/100 of a second, and if your goal is to photograph a drop in flight or a falling object, then the exposure time should be set to less than 1 /500 seconds to freeze movement.

Also, based on my own experience, I can say that an aperture smaller than f5.6 often leads to the fact that only the subject that is being focused on turns out sharp, and everything else is blurred, and this effect is not needed in all cases.

A few examples for which frames, what priority.

Same story
f 11.0, ISO 100, Exp 1/250

It was necessary to narrow the depth of field as much as possible, that is, open the aperture as much as possible.
f 1.8, ISO 100, Exp 1/80

Same requirements as for the previous photo.
f 1.8, ISO 400, Exp 1/80

Pay attention to the ISO setting of the last two photos. It is very different, and everything else is completely the same, however, both photographs turned out “normal”, this is explained by the fact that in the first photograph there was much more light illuminating the paper than in the second.

Let's assume that you already have a camera, otherwise it will be useful for you to read the material “Anti-marketing. Choosing a good, but formally outdated camera” - there you will learn how to buy a good camera and not overpay. And here I will talk about what shutter speed, aperture, ISO are and how they differ different modes shooting.

1. What is exposure?

Roughly speaking, exposure is the amount of light that the camera's sensor receives. Or a film that you are unlikely to use at all. And exposure is the process of exposure itself. And the amount of light depends on the exposure time and the level of illumination, which is regulated by shutter speed, aperture and matrix sensitivity. To make it easier for you to understand the difference in exposure, remember the concept of “step”.

2. What is shutter speed?

Shutter speed in photography has nothing to do with calmness and tolerance. This is the period of time during which the shutter is open and light enters the matrix. In most cases, shutter speed is very short and is measured in seconds and fractions of a second. On the camera screen, the value 60 corresponds to 1/60th of a second. In general, there is a standard series of shutter speeds in one-step increments: 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000, 1/2000, 1/4000 s. Each subsequent step reduces the amount of light entering the matrix by half. Four times is two steps. Eight times – three steps, and so on.