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Ministry of Education and Science of the Russian Federation

FSBEI HPE "Eletsk State University"

them. I. A. Bunin"

Institute of History and Culture

Department of Design and Folk artistic culture

COURSE PROJECT

discipline: Analysis of the state and trends in the development of folk costume

Group NKm-11

Tatarnikova E.R.

Checked by: Solomentseva S.B.

folk costume for training

Introduction

1. Historical and analytical part

1.1 Aesthetic ideals of beauty

1.2 Semiotic features of folk costume

1.3 Color design of the costume

1.4 Design features of folk costume

2. Implementation of a project to develop guidelines for the introduction of folk costume material into the educational process

2.1 Basics of teaching methodology

2.2 Development trend: innovative forms, methods, methods and features of control

2.3 Development of practical guidelines

Conclusion

List of used literature

INTRODUCTION

The relevance of the topic is determined primarily by the fact that in modern Russia there is a growth in the national self-awareness of different peoples, and interest in cultural traditions is increasing. The main task of teachers is training, targeted and organizational ways of forming ideas about the history of costume as the greatest national and universal value that embodies timeless spiritual and moral ideals. Ethnocultural education is of particular importance, in the process of which not only knowledge about the customs, traditions, and culture of the peoples of Russia is disseminated, but a respectful attitude towards them is formed.

In the modern variable educational space of Russia, subjects are increasingly appearing that provide students with the study of traditions of folk artistic culture, and a network of training with in-depth study of ethnocultural disciplines is widely developing. A decree of the Moscow Government was also issued “On the introduction of a compulsory course of study with an ethnocultural component into training,” which served as the most important incentive for the development and implementation of various disciplines of the ethnocultural cycle. These trends are reflected in the National Doctrine of Education. This document emphasizes the importance of introducing students to the cultural, historical and national cultural traditions of Russia as the basis for the formation of spiritual and moral ideals and personal values. The tasks of national-cultural education arising from the doctrine are of particular importance not only in the context of modern Russian state educational and cultural policy, but also on a global scale. More than ten years ago, the UN General Conference on Educational, Scientific and Cultural Affairs adopted the “Recommendation concerning the Preservation of Popular Traditions,” which became the most important international normative act, revealing the essence of folk traditions as an integral part of the common heritage of humanity, its social, economic, cultural and political significance in modern world, as well as a decisive role in bringing together different peoples and social groups, in establishing their cultural identity. The particular significance of this document is that it presents a holistic system of specific measures that UN member states must take. For more effective identification, storage and dissemination of traditional folk culture. It is emphasized that governments should play a decisive role in preserving folk traditions and act as quickly as possible to take legislative measures that may be required in accordance with constitutional practice each of them. The significance of this “Recommendation” is currently increasing even more in connection with the complex socio-political and socio-economic changes taking place in Russia and other countries. This was noted at the Regional Seminar of Eastern Europe and Asia, held in Veliky Novgorod under the auspices of UNESCO. The most important outcome of this seminar was the recommendation on the need for widespread development of ethnocultural education and its state support, as well as the decision to create an International Expert Council “Traditional Culture and Education” at UNESCO. It is ethnocultural education that can and should become in the modern world the main channel for the dissemination of traditional cultures, the transmission of the highest spiritual and moral values ​​and ideals embodied in them into the modern world cultural and information space.

For Russia, this task is more relevant than ever. The study of the centuries-old cultural heritage of the Russian people of Russia is important today not only in itself, but also as a factor in overcoming the most pressing problems spiritual life of Russian society. Russian folk costume, ancient monuments of folk wooden architecture, products of masters of folk arts and crafts, oral folk art, folk music and dances carry the light of goodness, mercy, and folk wisdom.

For many centuries, works of folk art, folk costume, customs and rituals reflected the people’s love for their native land, nature and home, archetypal images - the ideals of the mother, hero and beauty, as well as the most appropriate for survival, tested by the experience of many generations stereotypes of behavior in the natural environment and society. Since ancient times, these ethnic stereotypes ensured not only the survival of the people, but also the preservation of their spiritual and physical health, harmonized human interaction with nature and other people. It is also important for us that works of folk art embodied national images of the world, the cultural and historical psychology of Russian consciousness.

Today, more than ever before, it is necessary to disseminate in society and affirm through traditional folk art culture the importance of such primordial virtues as the priority of spiritual values ​​over material values, mercy, kindness, honesty, hard work, friendliness and hospitality, respect for the traditions of different peoples living in Russia and other countries of the world.

These spiritual and moral foundations of people's life form the core of the cultural heritage and living culture of the Russian people. To contribute to the restoration in modern Russia of the mechanism of transmission of traditions from generation to generation with the help of Russian folk costume - this is seen as the main prospect and purpose of the proposed course.

Enrichment of the general content liberal arts education based on the national and cultural traditions of the peoples of Russia, Russian folk costume, folk art can become an important factor in personal development.

Research objectives:

1. Study the Vologda folk costume and its features.

2. Develop educational and methodological guidelines for introducing the material of the Vologda costume into the educational process.

The subject, purpose, problems and hypothesis of the study determined the formulation of the following tasks:

1. Analyze the knowledge of the topic in the main stages of the historical development of Vologda folk costume.

2. Reveal the Vologda folk costume as an integrity that has absorbed the historical experience of the Russian people, their worldview and reflected the Russian mentality and aesthetic attitudes;

3. Develop experimental educational and methodological documentation. The object of the study is the historical aspect of the Vologda folk costume.

The subject of the research is the development of practical guidelines.

1. HISTORICAL AND ANALYTICAL PART

1.1 Aesthetic ideals of beauty of Vologda folk costume

The appearance and beauty of the ancient Russians always evoked enthusiastic responses from both Europeans and Asians. Ancient travelers, people of different tastes and ideas about beauty, when describing the Russians, always noted their tall stature, special stateliness, white skin with a bright blush, and beautiful brown hair. Arab traveler of the 10th century. Ahmet Ibn Fodlan, describing the Russian merchants who came to the Khazar king, notes: “They are like palm trees, ruddy and red.” The famous Venetian Marco Polo in the 13th century. in his “Travel” he writes about the inhabitants of northern Rus': “They are very beautiful people, white, tall; their women are also white and tall with blond and long hair”[1. p.34].

Since ancient times, high standards of beauty have determined the aesthetic folk ideal, which is described in epics and sung in songs. And among them, first of all, a tall, stately figure, majestic posture, a white face with a bright blush, sable dark eyebrows, and in women a smooth swan gait.

“She walks smoothly, like a swan;

She looks sweet - like a darling;

Says a word - the nightingale sings;

Her rosy cheeks are burning,

Like the dawn in God's sky;

Brown, golden braids,

Braided in bright ribbons,

They run along the shoulders, wriggle,

They kiss white breasts.”

Art. Lermontov M.Yu.

This attractive stateliness, proud posture, and coloring helped to recreate the ancient Russian costume with its silhouette, shape of parts, decorative design, fabrics and decorations used, and color combination. The most common features characteristic of the costume of this historical period include the following:

1) static, straight, wider silhouette of the product and sleeves;

2) the predominance of symmetrical compositions with the rhythm of lines in details, decoration, additions; even if there is asymmetry in the shape of the suit or the way it is worn (kosovorotka, feryaz), its composition is balanced and stable;

3) the use of decorative patterned fabrics, mainly red and blue, with complex patterns; trim with embroidery, lace, fur, fabric of a different color; creating a dynamic shape through contrasting colors;

4) the great importance of the headdress in deciding the composition of the costume.

1.2 Semioticallye features of folk costume

The information-sign system of a suit is a way of transmitting certain information from the owner of the clothing to the environment, and the suit itself is a way of establishing communication between codes and a source of information, thanks to which a certain opinion is created about the wearer of the suit.

The suits were made from homespun checkered fabric - motley, in Uftyug they called it “klitsetina”. The undershirt consisted of a “collar” (upper part) and a “camp” (lower part). The “collar” was decorated with a round yoke made of dyed linen fabric and gathered along the neck into a small fold. The sleeve was decorated with an insert of braided weaving (in the Uftyug tradition this was called “mahilka”), braid and fringe made of colored half-woolen threads. The hem was decorated with a geometric pattern consisting of rhombuses and oblique crosses. In Uftyug such a shirt was called “krasnostanka”.

In the Russian North, the words “sarafan” and “shirt” were rarely used; more specific names for these types of clothing, more specific and accepted in each locality, were used more often. Archival sources, publications and materials from expeditions reveal various variants of the names of sundresses. The origin of these names differs, firstly, in terms of design characteristics, that is, depending on the style.

The most ancient of them: “kostych”, “shushun”, “klinnik”, “kosoklinnik” - these are ancient wedge-shaped sundresses; “Moskovik”, “Moskvich” or “round” is a sundress with a straight design, sewn from several straight strips of fabric and gathered at the top under the lining.

According to the material and manufacturing technique, there are “ponitok”, “fabric”, “stuffer”, “petsetnik”, “kumachnik”, “damask”, “garniturnik”, “gumazhnik”, “satin”, etc., according to color and method of painting fabrics - “bruise”, “variegated”, “colored”, this also includes “kumachnik”.

By age, we can distinguish, for example, the “kostych” sundress, which in the Pinega region at the end of the 19th century was worn only by elderly women, and by purpose - the wedding sundress “Lopotinu” and “pokosnik”, which was worn only on the agricultural holiday of the beginning of hay harvesting - - mowing

Such outfits with red shirts were worn only on holidays. To show off a shirt woven with a swear pattern, the hem of the sundress was often tucked into the belt.

The sundress was round, with a cut-off back, and straps. As a rule, motley was made from home-woven linen fabric. The bottom of the sundress was decorated with a frill.

The linen apron was decorated with braid and frill made of colored cotton fabric, and a wide border of braided weaving.

The belt was made by hand from half-woolen threads in yellow-orange and green tones using the crocheting technique.

The costume was completed with a women's headdress - borushka. Each part of this headdress had its own name: the frontal part was “wattle,” the upper part was “four-piece,” and the special roller above the wattle to give shape was “roller.” Married women carefully tied their hair under the borushka, so there was a belief about their special magical power.

A scarf was put on the cap. The manner of wearing it varied, but it was always tied so that the forehead part of the bead, richly decorated with gold thread embroidery, was visible. On holidays, long ribbons were attached to the cap. Old women wore soft borushkas - “caps”.

Supplements to the costume could include neck and chest decorations of various shapes and designs, and jewelry: earrings, rings, bracelets.

Particular elegance and solemnity to the costume was hand embroidery on the shirt, red on white using the counted stitch technique, and an apron embroidered with colored tambour embroidery, decorated with red stitching - this was along the neck, chest, arms and legs (parts of the body that were especially carefully protected), there was an ornament (amulet). The hem of a woman's shirt, despite the fact that it was hidden under a sundress, was also decorated with embroidery. With its brightness and abundance of red, the festive peasant costume filled the soul with joy.

On the territory of the Vologda region, the men's suit did not differ significantly. The components of a traditional men's suit were a shirt, ports, a belt, and shoes.

On the borderland of Uftyuga and Kokshenga, there was a curious tradition - to decorate the boots of young married men with undercuts - the ornamented ends of the towel that the bride gave the man. The towel was torn into equal parts, wrapped around the feet like foot wraps, and the elegant ends, richly decorated with embroidery, were let out.

1.3 Color design of the costume

Nature has never recognized “colorlessness,” and she implanted this quality in the soul of the Russian people. For the creators of traditional clothing in the Vologda region, the color appearance of clothing was based on the principle of comparing bright, contrasting and saturated colors, forming complete harmony with each other. The brightness of color, its contrast and saturation are determined by the originality of the surrounding nature with its bright and joyful “multicolor”.

The most favorite color in Vologda art, especially in clothing, was red.

The words “red” and “beautiful” had the same meaning for Russian people: the maiden is beautiful, the fellows are beautiful, spring is red. The word “beautiful” did not mean the external beauty of a person, but his spiritual world, his beautiful soul, and in this regard, at all times, preference was given to those people whose beautiful appearance and beautiful soul were harmoniously fused, which corresponded to the concept of “beautiful” Human".

Bright crimson and soft pink colors symbolized sunsets and sunrises.

These colors were placed next to green or blue, ultramarine or surrounded by them. Back then, these colors were said to “burn,” reminiscent of sunsets and sunrises.

The green color symbolized the plant world: green crops in peasant fields and vegetable gardens, lush grasses of countless meadows, fragrant vegetation of the steppes, velvety greenery of gardens and dense forests, as well as abundance, joy, freedom, hope, tranquility. In clothing, this color was used somewhat less than red. Cleverly scattered spots of green on clothes evoke associations with meadows, forests, spring shoots in the fields, orchards and vegetable gardens that are also beautifully scattered across the Vologda land.

Yellow color was a symbol of short-term separation, ultramarine - water and sky, as well as chastity, fidelity, white - grief and death. Blue color was used rarely and in small quantities in the form of narrow stripes, squares and sewn on beads. It was interspersed only to enhance the sound of the surrounding red color and meant bloodlessness, cold, bad weather, fear. Black color - earth and eternal peace.

Patterned weaving and ornamental embroidery of the Russian North are distinguished by features characteristic not only of applied Russian art, but also of the art of other peoples, for example, Turkic or Finno-Ugric. Their products share similar motifs and compositional structures. Images of deer and trees made from rectangular sections or crosses with ends turned to one side, indicating the sun, asymmetrical geometric patterns and ornaments in the form of two-headed birds. All these features are characteristic of areas with the Onega type of population.

Finno-Ugric elements occupy a large place in the ornamental embroidery of the peoples of the Russian North. The most common motif in textile patterns are various versions of rhombuses (crossed, with extended sides). Most often, rhombic patterns were used in embroidery from the central regions.

Several large figures of strict outlines alternated rhythmically on the fabric. Typically, such patterns were arranged in a checkerboard pattern or in a straight stripe and were found in “branch” weaving or in colored weave embroidery. This is a special type of sewing technique, it was performed on sparse fabric, from which the threads were previously pulled out along the weft and along the warp. In the regions of the far North and in the Pskov province, such ancient Slavic embroidery was called “vyazbleno delo”. Interestingly, “vyazba” was also the name for any embroidery in Bulgaria. This fact confirms the opinion that this type of applied art such as embroidery appeared among the Slavs even before they divided into eastern and southern groups.

The patterned embroidery of the Russian North differs from the embroidery of the Central Russian strip in being much more ornamental and original. The most unique ornaments can be found in the eastern regions of the North. Such patterns are an endless series of rhythmically repeating identical elements. The pattern consists of numerous double hooks and “combs”; it either thickens or thins out, as if flickering. Brassware from the eastern regions is also distinguished by shimmer and small patterns that line up in large rhombic shapes. Similar patterns can be found on the embroidery of the Karelians who lived in the Tver province. Typically, the ends of towels were decorated with such fluid, asymmetrical patterns, made in the form of repeating small hooks or horns.

1.4 Constructural features of the suit

The outerwear of our ancestors was varied. On weekdays, they wore zipuns and ponits made from homemade cloth, as well as light shaburs made of canvas. One of the types of outerwear for the cold season in the 19th century. in Russia there was a ponytok, or a sukmannik. The name is associated with the fabric from which it was made - ponitochina. This is a thick fabric made from linen and wool threads or homemade cloth.

Also known among the Totem and Velsk residents were robes, bekeshi (fitted zipuns) and sermyaks (made without a waist). In Vologda - Siberian jackets (similar to a vest) and caftans.

In the Vologda districts there were several types of fur-lined clothing. Women's winter holiday costume usually included good-quality fur clothing. The most widespread among peasants were fur coats made from sheepskin. The presence of a fur coat in the house was a sign of the family’s wealth; it was considered a significant part of a girl’s dowry.

In the North of Russia, a woman’s outfit, along with the sundress, which has already been discussed, necessarily included a shirt. These two items of clothing were worn together, in one set. The shirts were made from different materials, had a different design from each other and a number of features indicating the geographical origin of a particular model.

From a technological point of view, shirts were either one-piece or composite.

In the first case, a single piece of fabric was used for sewing; the shirt was sewn along the entire length at once. Whole shirts were sewn from entire longitudinal, usually four, panels of fabric.

They were called differently: healing, whole (Arkhangelsk province), passage (Vologda province), whole, single-walled (Kaluga, Oryol province). In the 19th century, such shirts were found infrequently, mainly as ritual wedding or funeral ones.

In the second case, the clothing consisted of two halves: the top (“collar”, “collar” or “sleeves”) and the bottom (it was called “camp” or “stanovina”). A composite shirt was made from two parts. For the lower half (camp), canvas was most often used, but the top was made from lighter and thinner material - from high-quality linen or hemp, and then from cotton or silk fabric. Most shirts of the 19th-20th centuries were composite. The cut of women's shirts is extremely diverse. In most cases, they were cut very economically, with almost no waste scraps left, since the cutting module was the width of the fabric.

The model, as a rule, included a collar (assembled in small assemblies) and wide, loose sleeves. Sometimes the sleeves could be straight, with a lace frill or even a ribbon in the wrist area. The lower part, the “camp,” was sewn from thick homespun canvas.

For the northern provinces, it is typical to wear shirts with sundresses or skirts, the cut of the shirts themselves is without skirts, with straight skirts or with a yoke; their length could be from very short (the so-called “sleeved” shirt, “collar”) to long ( "sleeves" with waist).

Shirts consisting of only one upper part were common. They were called umbilicals, i.e. clothes reaching to the navel, or collars, dresses, briskets, collars, sleeves, etc. Any peasant woman had many such “tops,” and they could be easily changed as needed. And instead of a bed, peasant women wore petticoats.

Shirts with yokes became common in the second half of the 19th and early 20th centuries. There were several varieties of such shirts. The first, and probably earlier, is found in a Pomeranian women's costume: a small yoke with a slit - perhaps a preserved fragment of a ritual tunic-like shirt that was once used by the Old Believers here. The second variety of this type of shirt presumably appeared under the influence of urban fashion. The yokes of such women's shirts consist of several parts, there is a shoulder seam, the sleeves of such shirts are rolled, they may not have a gusset.

Depending on local traditions, the sleeves could be either wide or narrow. The collar, hem, and sleeve cuffs were decorated with skillful embroidery.

In Veliky Ustyug districts, on girls' shirts, a strip of calico 2-3 cm wide was sewn to the collar; below the calico, a strip of patterned fabric with red thread was sewn. This decoration gave the impression of a round yoke and was called a “chubby face.”

The word "sarafan" was borrowed from the Persian language and meant "long and honorable clothing." The sundress in the North of Russia is an ancient women's clothing, distinguished by a variety of models.

A sundress is a general, group name for a certain type of clothing. And each specific model was named differently.

“Klinnik”, “kosoklinnik” - the sundress was sewn from three panels of fabric - two front and one back, and a large number of wedges were sewn into the side seams, greatly expanding the hem of the sundress and giving it the shape of a semicircle when unfolded.

“Round” - several straight panels (usually 6 or 8) were sewn together with the long sides, gathered over the chest under the lining and attached to the straps.

“Dolnik”, “dolovik”) - a sundress in the form long skirt with narrow straps sewn to it. It was sewn from striped fabric (it could be chintz, cashmere or homespun fabric), and folded at the top. The dolnik was fastened with a hook or button located under the left strap.

Sundresses were seasonal. “Pestryaki” and “sinelnik” were worn in the off-season, in the summer. Winter sundresses included heavy “dolniks”, “sukmanniks”, “pomazeyniki”. “The young ones wore new material. Old women always have an old, already worn sundress.” “The old sundresses were worn every day.” The fabric for sundresses was woven in narrow strips on a durable canvas base. If there were not enough warp threads or they were saved, then the fabric would turn out loose. The warp was linen, the weft was wool. The width of the base and sundress reached 1.5 m. Sundresses were heavy, “heavy”, mostly straight, with folds. Instead of straps, woven, woven, or less often made of fabric belts were often used. Dolniki from dyed wool were spun finely and smoothly. They did not shed for a long time and had bright colors. The stripes in sundresses alternated in width. As a rule, three narrow stripes were inserted between wide identical stripes, and there was an alternation of dark and light colors. Particularly skilled craftswomen knew how to insert a pattern into a strip. Often there was lace or fabric along the bottom of the hem, and a pattern along the stripes. Round sundresses with straps intended for nursing mothers had a larger cutout on the chest. For young girls, a sundress with a cut-off bodice was sewn. The bodice could be made of a different fabric, sometimes decorated with lace. Gray canvas was usually hemmed on the inside of the bodice. Long sleeves could have wide straps and a wide bodice. The edge of the sundress was often trimmed with another fabric. The back of the sundress was cut in such a way that the wide fabric could be folded. The folds were a decoration of the sundress, emphasizing the figure and the splendor of the female form. The folds on the back of the sundress - dolnik and chenelnik - could go from the yoke and from the waist, depending on the cut and type of sundress. Their number reached up to 46, the depth of the folds was up to 1 centimeter.

The most common type of sundress is “motley”. Pestryaki were made from thin linen thread. The characteristic features of pieds are the alternation of light and dark cells, from small to large. The sundress could have longitudinal and transverse stripes. The moths had their own territorial characteristics: the shades were red, burgundy, green, and less often they used blue and light blue. The edge of the bodice and hem of the motleys was edged with red or black material. This was called "edging" or "edging". There could be lace running along the bodice (“along the breastbone”). Almost all sundresses had a narrow bodice. “Pestryachki” sundresses, as Vologda women affectionately called them, had “folds at the back.” They were made according to the figure, the folds were swept away. Usually 3-4 stripes of 37 cm each were used for the hem. The bodice was usually fastened with 1 to 3 buttons or with homemade hooks. Toward the bottom, the sundress expanded due to a wide “mushroom” frill. In different localities of the Vologda province, “mushroom” is called differently: “bors”, “morkhs”, “ruffles”. Sundresses with wide frills were called “oboroshniks”. The most common were sundresses with one frill, which was sewn to the edge of the sundress. There are sundresses in which the “mushroom” is sewn to the hem, directly on the fabric, with an indentation from the hem of the sundress of 10 to 15 cm. Usually on these sundresses the frills are cut on the bias, trimmed with piping and continue the hem pattern. The frills were made from leftover fabric.

“They sewed sundresses as they pleased, trying to stand out.” The length of the sundress is below the knee. As a rule, fabric ribbons, one or two stripes, usually black or red or blue, were sewn onto the fabric of the sundress below the knee. It was believed that “the more stripes, the richer the bride.” They tried to sew the apron so that the stripes were visible.

At the bottom of the hem of the sundress, on the inside, they sewed a “podolnik”, a “lining” made of rough canvas from 2.5 to 5 cm, this was explained as follows: “so that the hem would not get dirty, it was torn off and washed”; “so that the hem stands up and looks more voluminous”; so that the sundress lasts longer, and the bottom of the sundress “does not fray.”

On major holidays, a jacket with burs of the same color was worn on top of a satin sundress. For the holiday, young girls wore cotton sundresses with straps, with beautiful shirts. Summer sundresses “sinelniki” were made from blue canvas with printed material.

Swinging single-breasted clothing with narrow or wide straps, which had several types of cut, was called “dushegreya” or “short”. Soul warmers were made, for the most part, from expensive factory fabrics: velvet, corduroy, brocade, semi-brocade, silk - and decorated with stripes of braid, fringe made of metal thread, and fur trim; velvet shower warmers were decorated with gold embroidery. The cut of the soul warmers resembled a jacket; for warmth they were quilted with cotton wool or tow. Some models looked like a wedge-shaped sundress. The soul warmer was fastened at the front with hooks, loops or metal buttons. Lining made of cotton fabric with a small pattern. This clothing was known back in the 16th and 17th centuries. in the boyar and merchant environment. But peasants rarely wore it because of the high cost and inaccessibility of fabrics.

At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, jackets remained only as an attribute of the wedding or wedding attire of a rich bride. The soul grey (“short”) on the straps was gathered at the back into assemblies - tubular folds (usually there were seventeen of them); its floors and edges were covered with braiding - “gas”. With such a soul warmer they wore a shirt with muslin (“grass”) sleeves.

Among the women's chest clothing of the Russian North, there was also “epanechka” (“feathers”) - a very short sleeveless vest with shoulder straps. Epanechka usually had a smooth front, and the back was decorated with large folds.

In the Arkhangelsk and Vologda provinces, clothes called “sleeves”, “crimp”, “kabatukha” or “kabatushka” were known - a short, straight-cut blouse that slightly covered the chest with long straight sleeves, often with a slit in the middle or fastened on the left side. It was sewn from homespun, variegated, decorated with a pattern of red wool, sometimes lined with cotton wool or linen floss and lined. And they wore this type of breast clothing over a straight sundress.

With the sundress complex they also wore swinging single-breasted clothing with long sleeves, known in the urban environment back in the 17th century, and called “shugai”. Shugai - ancient swinging women's clothing with a cut-off back and one-piece front flaps.

Shugai was sewn from silk, satin, damask and brocade, the lining was made of cotton wool or hare fur. Shugai is the only top-fitting women's clothing in pre-Petrine Russia. The length of the product was most often up to the thigh, but sometimes reached the knees. At the back, the lower part of the shugai (basque) from the waist was gathered into lush gathers. The long tapering sleeves were gathered into small folds from the hand to the elbow. Shugai could have a fur collar or fur trim. The festive shugai was embroidered along the edges of the hem and sleeves with fringe or braid, and the buttons were attached on top of bows made of silk ribbons. Buttons or hooks were used as fasteners. It was worn saddle-back and in sleeves. Often worn in only one left sleeve, draped over the right shoulder and held with the right hand.

Bugai is a type of shugai without sleeves. This type of clothing also existed in the north of Russia, but in the Vologda region it was more often called Siberian.

In the northern regions (in particular, in the Arkhangelsk and Vologda provinces) these items of women's clothing were decorated with painting, typography and a special double-sided seam. The patterns used both simple geometric motifs and complex plots, including animals, birds and people. An apron or apron had to cover the front of the outfit (in whole or in part) and must be combined with the patterns on the sleeves.

"Zapon." It was distributed in Ustyuzhensky, Kirillovsky and Cherepovets districts. This apron was a sheet of linen fabric that covered the shoulders and chest to the knees. The cloth had a rectangular or oval cutout for the head, as well as armholes for the arms. Sometimes sleeves were also sewn onto it.

“Curtain” - this variety was noted in Kadnikovsky, Kargopol and Veliky Ustyug districts. Externally, the apron looks like a long piece of fabric with ties. With the help of ties, the “curtain” was fixed under the arms, covering the chest area.

The “apron-apron,” which was attached to the waist, appeared in women’s everyday life only at the end of the 19th century; it was worn everywhere.

Aprons not only protected clothes from dirt, but also served as decoration for the entire costume. Therefore, they were decorated with embroidery, colored stripes, lace or garus. Some lace aprons featured a horned frog. Horns are a symbol of fertility, confirmation that this girl can give birth. And the frog is a symbol of a woman in labor, into whose state every self-respecting girl of that time strived to get.

In all variants of women's costumes of the northern complex, clothes were belted with belts. These were an everyday and festive girl's shirt, and a ritual mowing shirt (or pokosnitsa), worn on the holiday of hay harvesting, and a sundress, and an andarak skirt for a married woman, and outerwear.

At the beginning of the 20th century, as elsewhere in this region, peasant costume acquired new features.

Under the influence of urban costume, at the end of the 19th century, a new set appeared in peasant women's clothing, the basis of which consisted of a skirt and a jacket or a one-piece dress made from purchased factory fabric. A set of a skirt and a jacket, which was made of one material - silk, satin or cotton fabric - was affectionately called a “couple” in the north.

The sweaters were made with a stand-up collar, a lace insert on the chest and puffy sleeves, a complex cut of the top of the suit, in the form of a peplum, frills, stitched small folds, a ruffle of tulle lace emphasized the fitted silhouette. The lower part of the costume - the skirt at the hem - was decorated with ruffles and applied decorative details. The festive complex of the costume was complemented by kerchiefs made of lace and silk scarves.

The ensemble-couple - made up of a skirt and jacket - became the most common type of women's clothing among women in provincial northern cities at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries.

Within the Vologda region, the sarafan complex was widespread in the middle of the 19th century. separate pockets of this new complex - with a skirt - were wedged in: in the central regions of the region - Kadnikov, Totma (especially Kokshenga), Velsk. When comparing various habitats in the Vologda lands, one can notice the coincidence of one of the centers of the complex - a skirt and a jacket - with the habitat revealed by anthropological data, according to which the population of Kokshenga had an Upper Volga anthropological type. The correspondence of such areas to one another, revealed according to the testimony of various scientific disciplines, is further evidence of contacts and connections of the local population with residents of certain regions.

Skirts and sweaters first appeared in places close to cities, and gradually began to exist in all northern counties. At first it was an accessory to a girl’s costume: light drawstring sweaters were worn with skirts by girls from the Soviet Union. This clothing was considered both everyday and festive (the latter being more elegant). Skirts were made from plain or variegated homespun, but more often from checkered fabric. The first skirts (hem - Cherepovets, Kirillov, Belozersky, Totemsky districts) were straight in cut, later they began to be sewn with oblique wedges sewn along the hem at an angle. The hems of skirts could be decorated with ribbons. Since the end of the 19th century. the skirts were made from factory fabrics, their cut was similar to the cut of straight canvas skirts, similar in cut and purpose to andarak. There were also woolen striped sukman skirts, the origin of which in the North has not yet been fully elucidated, but the prevailing opinion is about their Western origin. It was here in the Russian North that the skirt complex penetrated into the continuous zone of the word of mouth clothing complex (Vologda, Kadnikovsky, Totemsky, Velsky districts).

These were homespun skirts, hemlines, which were worn over a shirt. And even earlier, it was a custom among peasant women to put on a shirt, an underskirt with lace on top, and then a sundress. Under nice, festive skirts they wore richly embroidered skirts, decorated with “stitches” and knitted lace.

They were varied in color: “checkered”, smooth or single-colored and with stripes. The cut of the skirts could be straight, flared, or with burs. As a rule, folds were placed at the front and sometimes at the back of the belt. Skirts often had internal, often round or semicircular pockets. Skirts were decorated mainly along the bottom hem.

The idea of ​​folk costume would not be complete without mentioning headdresses. At that time, only small children were allowed to walk bareheaded. Festive dresses were decorated with gold threads, gems and pearls. They were not cheap, so women treated the clothes carefully and tried to pass them on to their younger relatives in good condition.

By the headdress one could judge the marital status of its owner. The girls were asked to cover their heads with a lined headband. This headband was made from beautiful, bright fabrics - silk, velvet or brocade. The width of a girl's headdress varied from 5 to 25 centimeters. The bandage was applied to the forehead or crown and secured at the back, under the braid. In the North, girls decorated their headbands with gold, beads, pearls or bugles. Often the headdress was supplemented with the so-called “underpants” (details hanging over the forehead) or a beautiful braid in the shape of a heart, triangle or bow.

An unmarried and unmarried girl had the right to braid only one braid. In general, the braid was an important symbol for our ancestors, a kind of sign of maiden purity.

If a girl had a wedding just around the corner, then this was immediately reflected in her costume. Betrothed girls in some areas of the Vologda province wore a knitted plain or patterned cap or a special velvet-chintz cap decorated with gold embroidery (it was also called an “honest cap”).

A cap is a headdress for betrothed girls and young women, which was a cap with a soft cap tapering towards the back of the head and a bonnet sewn to it on a hard, usually cardboard base. The cap was tightened behind the back with ribbons. The natemnik was made of red velvet and embroidered with gold thread. The most common embroidery ornament was a tree with birds sitting on its branches.

The edge of the cap was made of chintz or calico. This type of headdress was worn by the bride after the wedding. She sat in it at the wedding feast. Over the cap, the bride was given a bandage - a small rectangular scarf, tied at the back of her head with ribbons and descending to the upper part of her face.

The set of clothes with a headband, a sundress and a “short” included three bright red silk scarves with which the girls covered their shoulders, threading their ends under the straps of the sundress and shorts. The threading technique was strictly defined: the first scarf was tied around the neck with a copper, silver or even gold ring, and its ends were straightened on the chest. There was another way: the ends of the scarf were placed on the chest in a “cross”: the left end was threaded under the right strap of the sundress (bypassing it from above, from the shoulder), and the right end - under the left. The corners were carefully straightened on the chest so that there were no “wrinkles”. The second scarf was also thrown over the shoulders, and its ends, each on its own side, were threaded under the “short” straps and laid on the shoulders with “wings”. A third was thrown over the first two scarves, passing its ends (“feathers”) under the “short” straps from the shoulder and lowering them to the chest. Such

In most of the territory of Russia in the 18th - early 20th centuries, zipun existed only as outerwear. It was used as everyday and festive clothing for peasants in spring and autumn, as well as clothing worn over the main outerwear on the road or during bad weather. The purpose of the zipun affected its cut and material.

In the house, men wore zipun - clothing resembling a short jacket. There was a shirt underneath. These clothes fit the figure quite tightly. To sew zipuns, gray or white homemade cloth was used. A characteristic feature of this shoulder clothing was a short back, which is why women could also wear zipuns. Festive zipuns were made from factory cloth in black and blue colors. Typically, it was a long-sleeved, double-breasted garment with no or small stand-up collar, fastened from right to left with hooks or leather buttons and leather loops. Zipunas were usually sewn with a straight back and straight hems, the hem was widened due to wedges sewn between them.

Shabur is a caftan made of canvas, usually blue. The back of this shabur was cut off, and there were numerous gatherings from the waist. The right side of the shabur was folded over the left side and fastened with two hooks. The collar was made into a turn-down collar, like a shawl. The shabur was sewn on a white canvas lining.

Sermyak (armyak, azyam) - outerwear, mainly for men, was worn over a caftan, fur coat, short fur coat, sheepskin coat at any time of the year in bad weather and on the road. Known in Russia since the 16th century. It was made from homespun fabric of natural colors: white, yellow-brown, pea; from cloth or homemade wool blend fabric in black, white, gray, brown colors; sometimes made of thick cloth, dyed blue. At the end of the 19th - beginning of the 20th centuries. Sermyaks also began to be sewn from thick factory cloth. The sermyak was a robe-like garment, wide, long (to the ankles), single-breasted, with a deep wrap from right to left, with wide straight sleeves and a large collar. There are two known types of sermyak cut:

1) the back and floors are solid, widening downward;

2) the back is solid, straight, wedges are inserted between the back and the floors, which often meet in a herringbone pattern.

The sermyak was girded with a wide sash or cloth girdle, the length of which sometimes reached 3 m, the ends meeting in front and placed behind the sash on the right and left. The sermyak was also worn open or placed over the shoulders like a cloak. In the XVIII - early XX centuries. The sermyak was mainly peasant clothing, but was also used by coachmen and sometimes city cab drivers. Poor townspeople used it as outer street clothing, making it from homespun fabric; Boyars and rich merchants wore sermyaks only at home and sewed them from expensive, thin fabrics. The azyam also had a large collar, which in inclement weather was raised and tied with a scarf.

Hoodie - women's and men's outerwear. In the XVIII -- early XIX V. was known in the northern and western provinces of European Russia, and in some places in Siberia. It was made from yarn, cartilage, twill, and occasionally thread. The robes most often had the cut of a tunic: they were sewn from a panel of fabric folded over the weft, cut in the front, and wedges were sewn between the back and the flaps. The robe was wrapped from right to left and girded in front with a sash, braid, rope in such a way that the ends did not hang down, but were tucked into the sash on the right and left. Used mainly as work clothes. In summer it was worn over the main suit, in autumn and winter - over a caftan, short fur coat and other outerwear when performing various works and in bad weather.

Bekesha (Hungarian bekes) - men's outerwear, waist-length, with gatherings and a slit at the back, trimmed with cords at the front. It was sewn on fur or cotton wool with a fur or velvet collar. Named after the Hungarian commander of the 16th century. Kaspar Bekes, leader of the Hungarian infantry. Came into fashion in the 50s of the 19th century.

In the eastern districts of the Vologda province there was such a type of outerwear as azyam. It was a straight-cut caftan with long wide sleeves and ankle-length hems. The azyam also had a large collar, which in inclement weather was raised and tied with a scarf. In such clothes they went on a long journey.

A caftan was considered light clothing for the street. It could be worn in winter, additionally insulated with fur. The caftan reached to the knees or ankles - the length was largely determined by current fashion and the purpose of the clothing. There were both loose caftans and models that fitted the waist. They tried to sew them from good, dense material - canvas, cloth or silk. The caftan was wrapped in front (the left hem was under the right).

There are two varieties of this men's clothing - Russian and stanovoy. Both styles were long and featured wide sleeves. But the Russian caftan had straight wedges, and for the stanovoy they were cut on the bias. The tails of the caftan were longer at the back than at the front, which allowed a person to walk freely without the risk of getting tangled in the tails of the suit. The caftan either did not have a collar at all, or it was small in size. The most common colors for kaftans were gray and blue. The caftan was belted with a sash of a different color.

Festive caftans had high special cuffs and stand-up collars, called trumps, which covered the back of the head. They were often removable and were an indicator of status and wealth. They were made from the most expensive materials, decorated with gold and silver embroidery and precious stones. The chest of the caftan was decorated with buttons ranging from 8 to 12. The caftan had slits (“gaps”) on the sides, which were also trimmed with buttons. The length of the sleeve could reach the wrist.

Instead of buttons, silver and gilded gags or turned corals were sometimes used, which were fastened with loops made of multi-colored braid. The back of the caftan was often deliberately made shorter than the front: to demonstrate a special source of pride in clothing - the backs of ornamented boots.

The camisole worn under the caftan is very similar in cut to the caftan, but it fits the body more tightly and is slightly shorter than the caftan, the sleeves are narrow towards the wrist, without cuffs.

The caftan is worn unbuttoned, so that the entire front part of the camisole is visible, so the camisole is made of expensive luxurious fabric or richly decorated along the front with lace, embroidery and other trimmings.

In this case, the invisible parts of the camisole (sleeves, back) can be made of a more modest material than the front.

Sleeves can be sewn into a camisole only in winter.

Since the caftan is worn in pairs with a camisole, they are often worn as components of one costume, complementing each other.

Kazakin - outerwear for women and men for spring, summer, autumn, and in some villages - for winter. Cossacks were made from factory-made fabrics: cloth, moleskine, nanka, Chinese, casinet, usually lined; winter cossacks were made with cotton wool or fur. Kazakin was an open, double-breasted, knee-length garment, sewn at the waist, with a trimmed back and gathers at the back or around the entire waist, with a stand-up collar or without a collar, with a collar at the neck. It was fastened to the waist with hooks or bow buttons, sewn in one or two rows. Festive Cossacks, especially those that existed in the Vologda province, were decorated with braid made of garus and silk, which was located along the collar, sides and pockets. In the 19th century Cossacks were common in villages, villages and district towns in almost all provinces of European Russia.

Men's fur coats and sheepskin coats were of the same cut as women's. They could differ in cut or lining material, but they were certainly made of fur. The first mention of a fur coat dates back to the 15th century. Then this outerwear had a turn-down collar from the chest. The person wrapped it in the front and fastened it with buttons (instead there could be long laces). For convenience, holes were made in the side of the fur coat - the decoration of the boots was visible and it was comfortable to walk on. The hem could reach the knees or hide the figure right down to the toes. Sheepskin was often used to make warm clothing. By the way, sheepskin coats and fur coats were not in every home. If necessary, they were borrowed from wealthier fellow villagers. To keep warm, outerwear was secured to the waist with a belt or sash.

In those places of the Russian North where crafts were widespread and where Russian peasant tradesmen were in contact with local peoples, there were borrowings from the clothing of these peoples. This mainly concerned work and industrial clothing. Such clothes include:

The word “shirt” comes from the Old Russian word “rub”, meaning “piece”, “segment”.

The most ancient part of the costume was a tunic-like shirt. It has undergone little structural change. Rough, made from dyed hemp, the shirt was comfortable and durable. The tunic cut of a men's shirt is the most ancient cut known to us and at the same time the most common cut. There are two types of tunic-shaped shirt: “with barrels” and “without barrels”. A shirt “with barrels” is formed from a panel of fabric folded along the weft (a collar is cut at the fold); Straight panels are sewn to the central (middle) panel, forming “barrels” and a straight-cut sleeve.

If the cut fabric was not enough to cover the entire width of the sleeve, then additional wedges were used, sewn mainly to the elbow. The sides were also made if the width of the product was to be greater than the original canvas. Moreover, the side inserts could be either straight or in the form of trapezoids.

The sleeves were made quite long (up to the first phalanx of the thumb - on men's shirts) and narrow. In order for the sleeves to move freely, a gusset (swallow, swallow) was sewn into the armpit - a piece of rectangular fabric, usually red or blue.

The upper part of the shirt was additionally reinforced with a backing. It could be one-piece or consist of several pieces sewn together. The lining is a canvas or serpyanka (coarse linen or hemp fabric) lining on the chest and back of a man’s shirt. The reason is for strength: from hard work, the fabric on the shoulders rots from sweat. “The shirt is tinder: the tinder burned out on the shoulders,” people said jokingly.

The clasp on the strap was often made on the left side. It was called a kosovorotka because it had a collar cut running vertically downwards on the left side. The collar (low stand) was fastened or tied with buttons or ribbons. Along with the blouse, there were shirts with a collar slit in the middle. White shirts were most often with a straight neckline, but items made from motley shirts could be sewn with a slanted or stand-up collar.

Shirts with a straight or tunic cut were considered everyday in the Vologda region. They also often wore everyday shirts without a collar, which were called “shabur” or “naked neck.” A traditional men's shirt has always been made from natural linen or hemp fabric, which was woven by hand. Its width varied from 35 to 45 cm. Everyday shirts in most cases were made of homespun checkered or striped small motley, dyed (printed) blue and red colors or bleached canvas and were almost not decorated.

For holiday shirts, better material was taken: thin linen or rather expensive factory-made fabrics - satin, chintz, satin and calico. In the eyes of our ancestors, the shirt had magical powers: it protected the most vulnerable parts of the body - the neck, legs, arms. Therefore, festive men's shirts were covered with an ornament-amulet on the neck, bottom of the sleeves, and hem of the shirt. They are the places where the ornament is traditionally placed. The gusset could also be a colored decorative detail. Along with patterned weaving and embroidery, braid, sequins, braid, buttons, beads, and stripes of red were widely used as decoration. In terms of the richness of decorations, men's holiday shirts were sometimes not inferior to women's ones.

...

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DEPARTMENT OF EDUCATION OF THE VOLOGDA REGION

BUDGET EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTION

SECONDARY VOCATIONAL EDUCATION IN THE VOLOGDA REGION

"VOLOGDA COLLEGE OF TECHNOLOGY AND DESIGN"

Coursework

on the topic: Marketing research and identification of the target market for clothing products using the example of the Margo clothing enterprise

Completed by: student of group 3 KM - 11

Queen Victoria

Vologda 2014

Introduction

The modern economy is characterized by the interaction of its three main subjects: the producer, the consumer and the state. Each of these participants in economic processes has specific goals, in accordance with which they organize their activities. In a market economy, for the successful operation of its subjects, deep knowledge market and the ability to skillfully apply tools to influence the situation developing on it. The totality of such knowledge and tools form the basis of marketing.

Marketing is one of the types of management activities and influences the expansion of production and trade by identifying consumer needs and satisfying them. It links the possibilities of production and sale of goods and services with the aim of purchasing products by the consumer.

One of the main areas of marketing activity is market segmentation, which allows an enterprise to accumulate funds in a certain area of ​​its business. To date, the economic literature has quite clearly defined the concepts of target market and target segment, the identification of which is the main goal of market segmentation.

A target market is a firm's potential market, which is defined by a population of people with similar needs for a particular product or service, sufficient resources, and the willingness and ability to buy.

Effective use of production capacity, new high-performance equipment and advanced technology determined by marketing. Therefore, the research topic is relevant in our time.

The purpose of writing this work is to study marketing research, its goals, stages and main directions, also to consider theoretical aspects using the example of a specific sewing enterprise “Margot”. The following tasks follow from the goal:

define the concept of marketing research, their main goals and objectives;

study the role of marketing research for an enterprise;

explore the criteria for choosing methods for conducting marketing research:

give a general description of methods for collecting data for analysis in marketing research;

determine the choice of goal, direction, and marketing research methodology for the Margo clothing enterprise;

conduct marketing research of the workwear market;

draw conclusions from marketing research to make a decision on launching a new production.

Concept, goals and objectives of marketing research

Marketing research is the collection, processing and analysis of data with the aim of reducing the uncertainty associated with making marketing decisions. The market, competitors, consumers, prices, and internal potential of the enterprise are subject to research. Market research involves finding out its state of development trends, which can help identify shortcomings in the market position and suggest opportunities and ways to improve it.

The purpose of the study follows from the strategic guidelines of the enterprise’s marketing activities and is aimed at reducing the level of uncertainty in management decision-making.

Marketing research is always aimed at identifying and solving a specific problem. A clear, concise statement of the problem is the key to conducting successful market research.

The goals of marketing research arise from the identified problems; achieving these goals allows us to obtain the information necessary to solve these problems. They characterize the lack of information that must be eliminated to enable managers to solve marketing problems. The list of goals agreed upon with the manager usually includes several items.

Goals must be clearly and clearly formulated, as well as sufficiently detailed, it must be possible to measure them and assess the level of achievement. When setting the goals of marketing research, it is determined what information is needed to solve a given problem. This determines the content of the research objectives. Thus, the main point in determining the objectives of the study is to identify specific types of information useful to managers in solving marketing management problems.

Methods of conducting marketing research and the role of marketing information in an enterprise

To function properly in a marketing environment, it is necessary to obtain adequate information before and after decisions are made. There are many reasons why marketing information should be collected during the development, implementation and review of marketing plan company or any of its elements.

Methods of data collection when conducting marketing research can be classified into two groups: quantitative and qualitative.

Quantitative research is usually identified with conducting various surveys based on the use of structured, closed-ended questions that are answered by a large number of respondents. The characteristic features of such studies are: the format of the collected data and the sources of their receipt are clearly defined; the processing of the collected data is carried out using streamlined procedures, mainly quantitative.

Qualitative research involves collecting, analyzing, and interpreting data by observing what people do and say. Observations and conclusions are qualitative in nature and are carried out in a non-standardized form. Qualitative data can be converted into quantitative form, but this is preceded by special procedures. Only as a result of additional analysis are all opinions divided into three categories: negative, positive and neutral, after which it is possible to determine how many opinions belong to each of the three categories. Such an intermediate procedure is unnecessary if the survey uses a closed form of questions.

Good information allows marketers to:

Receive specific benefits

Reduce financial risk and hazards for the sample

· determine consumer attitudes

· monitor external environment

· evaluate activities

· get support in decisions

· reinforce intuition

· improve efficiency.

Overall, a marketing information system provides many benefits: organized collection of information; crisis avoidance; marketing plan coordination; speed; results expressed in quantitative form; cost and benefit analysis.

Characteristics of data collection methods

There are at least three alternative approaches to collecting data: doing it yourself, creating a special task force, or using commercial companies specializing in data collection.

In the first case, employees of the organization's marketing service collect data on their own, say, through interviews. Obviously, such an organization must have a fairly extensive staff of employees.

A special group is usually staffed by not very highly qualified specialists, for example, students to conduct telephone or personal interviews. In this case, it is necessary to conduct several training sessions with the interviewers. It is necessary to control the quality of the information collected (are the questionnaires filled out by the interviewer himself?) and motivate the work of interviewers.

In recent years, both in our country and abroad, small companies starting a business and giant companies are increasingly resorting to the services of specialized companies that carry out marketing research on on a commercial basis. These include companies that only collect marketing information. However, the cost of marketing companies is three to five times higher than the other two approaches to data collection.

In order to collect a sufficient number of necessary, accurate and useful information, many firms are developing special marketing information (media) systems. Such systems include: system internal reporting, a system for collecting external fluid marketing information, a marketing research system and a marketing information analysis system.

Brief description of the Margo sewing enterprise

The Margo sewing enterprise is located in the city of Vologda, Vologda region and has been specializing in the production of linen clothing for 30 years. The company was founded on June 10, 1968.

The enterprise has a functional management structure, where each department is engaged in a specific type of activity. But at the same time, the enterprise works smoothly as a single whole.

The head of an enterprise has the right to: represent the interests of the enterprise in relations with individuals and legal entities, government and administrative bodies, act on behalf of the enterprise, without issuing a power of attorney; open current and other accounts in banking institutions; manage the funds and property of the enterprise in compliance with the requirements of the relevant regulations and the charter of the enterprise; within the limits established by law, determine the scope and procedure for protecting information constituting confidential information.

Let's consider the main performance indicators of the enterprise.

Analyzing the table (Table 1), the following main conclusions can be drawn. The company's revenue in 2012 compared to 2011 decreased by 0.9%, and the company's profit also decreased, but to a greater extent - by 21.3%. This was due to a 3.4% increase in production costs and a general decline in sales. The increase in cost is due to an increase in prices for raw materials and an increase in the total number of employees by 2.8% (respectively, the wage fund by 4%).

Table 1 - Main technical and economic indicators of the enterprise’s activities for 2011-2012.

Indicator 2011 2012 Deviation, +/- Rate of growth, decline, % Revenue from sales of products (excluding VAT) thousand rubles 1989219711-18199.1 Cost, thousand rubles 1645717009552103.4 Average number of employees, incl. Industrial and production personnel Of which workers 176 132 98181 148 1035 16 5102.8 112.8 105.1 Payroll fund, thousand rubles 81238448325104 Average monthly accrued wages, thousand rubles 3846388943101.1 Product revenue - per person of industrial production personnel - per worker. 150.7 203 109 191.4 -41.7 -11.6 72.3 94.3 Costs per 1 ruble of products sold, rub. 0.830.860.03103.6 Profit, thousand rub. 34352702-73378.7 Return on sales, % 17.313, 7-3,679.2

The main activities of the company, according to statutory documents, are:

production of garments;

production of consumer goods;

trade and commercial activities;

market research.

Thus, the Margo sewing enterprise belongs to a light industry enterprise, the main activity of which is the production of garments.

Choosing a goal, direction, method of marketing research for an enterprise

This year the company plans to significantly expand the range of products. In addition to the existing clothing production, Margot wants to launch the production of various types of clothing from knitted fabric.

The company needs to conduct marketing research to find out the degree of demand for the product by the target market, as well as possible obstacles to effective production and sales.

The launch of new production is simply necessary for Margot due to the low profitability of current production and the observed downward trend. This justifies the urgent need for marketing research for a clothing enterprise.

So, let’s conduct marketing research in accordance with the main stages outlined in the theoretical part.

Stage 1 - Statement of the problem. The company faces the following problem. In accordance with the chosen strategy, the company decided to expand its product range and sales market. To do this, it is necessary to determine how ready the market is to accept a new type of product.

Stage 1 - Determining the objectives of the study. General purpose of the study

analyze whether demand will correspond to the planned supply of goods. From the general goal follow secondary ones - to explore:

market of buyers (geographically, belonging to a certain profession, social group);

market of raw material producers;

competing enterprises;

prevailing prices;

political and economic situation in the region of production and sales.

Stage 1 - Selection of research methods.

A clothing factory is conducting descriptive marketing research. In accordance with the definition, this means that actual data will be studied on consumers of the company's products, on the specifics of the product, where consumers purchase the company's products, when consumers most actively buy these products, how consumers use these products.

The research will use an integrated approach, that is, the enterprise will examine the market situation, considering it as an object that has multifaceted manifestations: demand, product supply, prices.

Stage 1 Determination of the type of information required and sources of obtaining it.

Secondary market research data will be used for the study. This means that data previously collected from internal and external sources for purposes other than market research is analyzed. External sources are laws, decrees, regulations of government bodies; data from official statistics, periodicals, results scientific research. Secondary data for our enterprise can be obtained from such information sources as:

publications of general economic orientation (newspapers, magazines, etc.);

periodicals;

daily newspapers;

newspapers free advertisements;

electronic media (television, radio);

statistical yearbook of the State Statistics Committee “Russia in Figures”;

publications of specialized economic and marketing organizations.

Sources of external secondary information also include: exhibitions, fairs. Meetings, conferences, presentations, open days, commercial databases and data banks.

In recent years, in connection with the development of computer systems, it has become possible to use their services, both for specialized marketing firms and for specialists in the marketing departments of organizations carrying out these studies independently. Thus, through the Internet, you can obtain information on the state of the market for certain goods in various countries. Since the sources mentioned here and others are available to everyone, the point is to carefully observe, collect and evaluate information.

Marketing research of the workwear market

We will conduct marketing research of the special clothing market in the Samara region during the implementation of the 5th stage “Data acquisition process” and conduct their analysis during the 6th stage “Data processing and analysis”.

1)Characteristics of manufactured products and main consumers. Despite the fact that by the end of the 20th century the volume of knitwear production fell sharply, it is worth noting that today the Russian knitwear market annually adds 10–15% of products per year.

Small domestic enterprises for sewing knitted clothing are now developing most actively, producing on average about 100 sets of their products per day. The reason may be that such enterprises can respond more quickly to new market and fashion trends.

Absolutely the entire population of Vologda, as well as the Vologda region, can become consumers of the planned products.

) Main competitors.

If we consider the market of the Vologda region, we can highlight the following manufacturers: atelier “Impulse”, clothing production “Astrol”, knitwear salon “Azhur”, LLC “Knitwear”, LLC “Cherepovets Garment Factory”.

Finally, you can approach the 7th stage “Development of conclusions and recommendations”, as well as the 8th stage “Reporting the research results”.

According to experts, the Russian knitwear market is at the dawn of its development.

The demand for knitted clothing is constantly increasing.

Product prices will correspond to market prices.

ShP "Margo" has established connections with future suppliers of raw materials, these are: LLC "Svantex Company" (Ivanovo), "Ivanovo Textile" (Togliatti), LLC knitting factory "Volzhanka" (Rvbinsk).

Thus, the management of the Margo enterprise concluded that the situation on the sales market is positive in order to organize extensive production of products.

marketing clothing market workwear

Conclusion

In the course of carrying out the work, we can draw the following conclusions. Marketing research is necessary for collecting, processing, analyzing and evaluating external data. This is necessary to correlate current state enterprise and its promising opportunities with market conditions. Therefore, marketing research is carried out from two positions: assessing certain marketing parameters for a given point in time and predicting their values ​​in the future. Effective market analysis allows an enterprise to calculate the profitability of planned production and assess what positive and negative factors may affect it.

A company can organize marketing research in different ways: in a special marketing research department, use only one specialist for this task - a marketer or an employee responsible for sales.

There are the following main stages of marketing research: problem statement; determination of research objectives; selection of research methods; determining the type of information required and sources of obtaining it; data acquisition process; data processing and analysis; development of conclusions and recommendations; registration of research results. The most widely used methods for conducting marketing research are document analysis methods, consumer survey methods, expert assessments and experimental methods. Depending on the objectives of the study, three types of research are distinguished: exploratory, descriptive and casual. In this case, qualitative and quantitative methods of data collection are used.

In our work, we examined the conduct of marketing research using the example of the Margo sewing enterprise. Analysis of the main technical and economic indicators indicates that revenue, profit and profitability of sales have decreased. The company plans to launch a new production - knitted clothing. This will increase the profit of the enterprise. And for this it is necessary to conduct marketing research on the clothing market.

Marketing research was carried out in stages. First, we formulated the problem and determined the purpose of the study. The company decided to expand the range and sales market, so the objectives of the study were: the buyers' market, the market of raw material producers, competing enterprises, prevailing prices, the political and economic situation in the region of production and sales. The company chose descriptive research as the research method; an integrated approach was used in the research. The study used secondary market research data: newspapers, magazines and internal documents.

The research revealed a high demand for products - knitted clothing. Absolutely the entire population of Vologda, as well as the Vologda region, can become consumers of the planned products. The main competitors were identified:

The planned prices of our garment factory are close to the average, equilibrium prices prevailing on the market. The enterprise identified the following enterprises as suppliers of raw materials: Svateks Company LLC, Ivano Textile LLC, Volzhanka knitting factory LLC. In summing up the results of the study, the Margo clothing enterprise concluded that a positive situation has developed on the sales market in order to organize extensive production of products. Management approved a business plan for launching a new production.

Literature used

1. 101 good ideas on how to create a perfect business (Series: “Practical Management”) //Bemovski K., Stratton B., Kemarsky V.A., Adler Yu.P., Shper V.L., Standards and quality, M. -2005

Assel Henry. Marketing: principles and strategy: Textbook for universities - M.: INFRA-M, 1999..3. Basovsky L.E. Marketing: course of lectures. M.: INFRA-M, 2001.4. Belyaevsky I.K. Marketing research: information, analysis, forecast: Textbook. - M.: Finance and Statistics, 2001..5.Berezin I.S. Marketing and market research. M.: Russian Business Literature, 1999.

Gerchikova I. Methodology for conducting marketing research//Marketing, No. 3, 1995

Golubkov E.M. Marketing research: theory and practice M.: - ed. Finpress , 2000

Gorelova A. Marketing research: a multidimensional view // Marketing, No. 6, 2000, 11. Doroshev V.I. Introduction to the theory of marketing: Textbook.-M.: INFRA-M, 2000.

Day D. Strategic Marketing. - M.: Publishing house EKSMO-Press, 2002

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1. RESEARCH PROGRAM

1.1. Objectives of the study

1. Determination of the volume of the sales market for men's and women's outerwear in the city and region and a brief description of the parameters of the main consumer groups.
2. Studying the purchasing motivation of various population groups when purchasing men's and women's outerwear.
3. Determination of the most significant factors influencing the decision to purchase clothing (including the influence of the brand and dependence on the country of manufacture).
4. Studying consumer attitudes towards the enterprise and the “N” brand, assessing consumer awareness of the above brand.
5. Analysis of the activities of JSC “N” (SWOT-, STEP-analysis, product analysis, personnel qualifications, existing sales and promotion systems).

1.2. Type of study

Due to the large volume of material for analysis and the number of tasks assigned, the research was carried out in several stages:

• Desk research.
• Quantitative research.
• Field research.

When compiling questionnaires for surveys, mainly closed questions and scale formulations were used, which made it possible to organize a more systematic processing of the results and obtain a clear interpretation of them.

1.3. Sources of information

Documentation of JSC "N".

Statistical information.

Periodical literature (specialized publications, periodicals).

Expert opinion.

Composition of the group of experts: representatives of trade enterprises, experts and independent specialists in design, fashion, directors of clothing manufacturing enterprises. The expert survey was conducted using Questionnaire No. 2 (Appendix 2).

Expert group size: 32 people.

Respondents (survey).

The survey was conducted using a quota sample that represented the population of the region by gender, age, social and professional status. The survey was conducted using Questionnaire No. 1 (Appendix 1). To clarify the size of the sales market, some respondents were surveyed using Questionnaire No. 3 (Appendix 3).

Primary sample size for interviewing: 250 people, additional sample size to clarify the size of the sales market: 40 people.

The study of the attitude of the region's population towards various product brands and the “N” brand was carried out using Questionnaire No. 4 (Appendix 4).

Sample size for studying attitudes towards brands: 25 people.

Special attention was paid to the analysis of the work of the Enterprise's marketing department and the compliance of management with its goals. The list of questions in accordance with which conversations took place with the marketing department personnel is given in Appendix 5.

1.4. Methodology and sources of information

Problem: discrepancy between the supply of JSC “N” and the real demand on the Russian market for clothing products.

• identify what products the consumer needs;
• determine the market volume by product range;
• identify the consumer’s attitude towards the “N” brand;
• provide information for the development of new brands.

• analysis of the competitive advantages of JSC “N”;
• analysis of JSC “N” products;
• description of the competitive environment of JSC “N”;
• analysis of personnel qualifications;
• analysis of the sales and promotion system.

Object: market of clothing products in the Omsk region over the past 4 years.

Subject: effective demand of various population groups for men's and women's outerwear.

Hypotheses:

1. a significant part of the sewing products offered and purchased on the market are imported, so there is not enough demand for similar domestic products;
2. loss of confidence in domestic clothing among a significant part of the population;
3. the “N” brand has lost the trust of a significant part of the population;
4. the Company's priority focus on corporate clients to the detriment of end consumers;
5. ineffective management at the Enterprise;
6. The sales network of the Enterprise is extremely poorly developed; the production-oriented concept dominates at the Enterprise.

To achieve your goals and solve problems, it is necessary to carry out analytical study to confirm (or refute, and, as a consequence, form new) formulated hypotheses.

1.5. Main parts of the research work plan

1. Drawing up a research network diagram.
2. Conducting desk research.
   2.1. Content analysis of documents.
   • sales volume for the last 4 years;
   • sales network structure;
   • list of clients;
   • assortment (by year, by client, by design);
   • publications and reviews in the media about JSC “N”;
   2.2. Quantitative Research:
   • technological and human resources potential;
   • statistics on the clothing industry for the last 4 years;
   • population structure of the city and region by profession and age (to stratify the sample for field research).
3. Conducting field research.
   • conducting a survey of experts;
   • conducting a survey among wholesalers;
   • conducting a population survey;
   • conducting a survey of corporate clients;
   • monitoring the assortment of goods in stores (boutiques);
   • observation of the assortment of goods at clothing markets in Omsk;
   • analysis of prices in stores (boutiques);
   • analysis of prices in clothing markets in Omsk;
   • analysis of consumer behavior.
4. Processing information and providing a report.

2. SUMMARY RESEARCH RESULTS

2.1. Market situation analysis

First of all, let’s consider the market in which JSC “N” operates and the prospects for its development.

Market capacity was determined using a top-down approach using intermediate estimates identified during the study.

During the research, a survey of the population was conducted to determine the composition of the wardrobe and the rotation of clothing items included in the assortment of JSC “N”. Based on the data obtained during the survey and analysis of statistical data, the market capacity of finished garment products in the Russian Federation as a whole, the Omsk region and other regions of the West Siberian region was obtained. In this analysis, the Novosibirsk region was not taken into account, because in this region the position of one of the main competitors, Sinar, is strong; according to experts, N cannot compete in this geographic market at the moment.

Market capacity was calculated by adjusting data on the age composition of the population of the represented regions to the share of the population having each of the assortment groups of clothing in their wardrobe, after which these data were adjusted to the frequency of turnover of each individual group of clothing.

The research results can be used to assess the market capacity of similar climatic conditions regions, in regions with an excellent climate, such a study (using the questionnaire presented in Appendix 3) must be carried out additionally.

Table 1
The market capacity of finished garment products today is (in physical terms)

Table 1 takes into account the population of working age and retirement age (up to 70 years). This is related to the target group of consumers; the target group will be discussed in more detail in the corresponding section of the report.

Based on the data obtained, it is possible to estimate the share of CJSC “N” in the Omsk market, which currently amounts to less than 0.5%.

Let's move on to a more detailed description of the competitive environment of the Enterprise.

According to a survey of experts (the survey was conducted using a questionnaire given in Appendix 2), the largest share among products similar to those produced by JSC “N” (outerwear for men and women) is occupied by clothing products from China, Vietnam and Turkey. Today the share of Russian enterprises ranges from 20 to 30%.

According to experts, in 5 years the situation regarding Russian-made outerwear will not change. Its share will be no more than 25-30%. At the same time, the share of clothing coming from China, Vietnam and Turkey will decrease slightly, but the share of products from Central and Eastern Europe will increase.

Thus, the main competitors of N JSC are importers of clothing from the countries of Southeast Asia, and in the future they will also be joined by importers from the countries of Central and Eastern Europe. These countries supply clothing for the same segments as N JSC. (The only exceptions are women's and men's winter coats; no competitors for this group from these countries have been identified.)

Among Russian enterprises, the main competitors are:

• "Sinar", Novosibirsk;
• "Bolshevichka", St. Petersburg;
• Fosp, St. Petersburg;
• Myshling, Moscow;
• Gyntron, Moscow;
• “Severyanka”, Moscow;
• "Vympel", Moscow.

The main threat from Russian enterprises is that they produce a range of products comparable in quality and price (including winter and demi-season coats).

However, it is wrong for the Enterprise to focus only on winter coats. According to a pilot survey of the population regarding market capacity, only about 10% of respondents have a winter coat in their wardrobe. Sheepskin coats, warm jackets and fur coats are now much more popular - 70%, 60 and 55%, respectively. In addition, the preference for warm jackets over winter coats is explained by the cheapness of the former, as well as convenience and fashion.

Thus, the winter coat segment is not promising at the moment, but it is likely that in the future the market situation will change in a more favorable direction, since fashion is cyclical.

2.2. Analysis of enterprise assets

Let's consider an element of the enterprise's microenvironment - its assets.

Taking into account the results of the preliminary analysis, the main problem of JSC “N” is the presence of large unclaimed production capacities, i.e., the orientation of management and production towards the production of products on a large and very large scale. About half of the experts surveyed (46%) expressed the opinion that the optimal production volume, from the point of view of sales opportunities, is clothing batches of up to 100 pieces. Another 41% of experts expressed the opinion that the optimal batch of clothing should be in the range of 100-1,000 pieces.

At the moment, the size of the Enterprise contributes to an increase in costs and, consequently, a deterioration in competitiveness and the loss of a number of important competitive advantages. High depreciation charges and the cost of repairing outdated equipment significantly increase production costs.

Experts also had certain complaints about the technological process: the production time of test samples of 2-3 months does not allow the Enterprise to meet modern market requirements.

Thus, in the existing market conditions, the size of JSC “N” does not allow the enterprise to operate effectively, and therefore, there is an urgent need to change its organizational structure, management system, sales system, etc.

2.3. Consumer Attitude Analysis

An analysis of the existing market structure is impossible without taking into account the opinions of consumers. Therefore, it is necessary to analyze the attitude of consumers towards the products of JSC “N”.

2.3.1 Fashion and other factors influencing the purchase of clothing

Based on the analysis of the overall results of the study, we can conclude that the majority of Omsk residents follow fashion trends in clothing, and this applies to both women and men, although men pay less attention to this. So, if among women 86% follow fashion, then among men this figure is only about 60%.

It should be noted that the habit of following fashion decreases over the years (the older the respondents were, the more often they indicated the answer “no” to the first question of the questionnaire).

If we consider fashion in the hierarchy of factors influencing decision-making when purchasing outerwear, then it is one of the most important and significant factors. From the point of view of experts, compliance with fashion is in second place among the factors influencing decision-making when purchasing clothes, and according to the population, this factor takes only fourth place, both among women and men (no significant differences were noted by age ).

As for other parameters influencing the choice, for those surveyed the uniqueness of the style and model is an insignificant factor when choosing clothes. Thus, factors related to fashion in a broad sense occupy only 3-4 places in importance among the population. For experts, the uniqueness factor of clothing is at a very low level.

We can conclude that now fashion trends are not very relevant when making decisions about purchasing clothes. However, in the future (according to experts), there will be some restructuring in consumer opinion (fashion will come first). At the same time, it is necessary to take into account that such a situation will be real with a significant increase in household incomes, which is expected no earlier than in 5-7 years.

The most important factors influencing the purchase of clothing from the population are: quality and durability; functionality and quality; price.

This situation is explained precisely by low incomes. The majority of respondents want to purchase high-quality and durable clothing at fairly low prices. Quality and durability will allow the population to save some time on buying clothes and transfer these costs to current consumption (food, etc.).

It should also be noted that in this regard, opinions converged among women and men. Both of them highly value the above qualities in clothing. However, women under the age of 35 also value the uniqueness factor quite highly. For them, this factor is more important than price (which is quite consistent with psychological factors).

According to experts, the most important factors when buying clothes are: functionality and quality; compliance with fashion; price; quality and durability (and the significance this factor almost identical to the price).

Thus, experts noted almost the same factors influencing the purchase of clothing that consumers noted, but the difference lies in their assessment. Experts believe that consumers will buy quality clothing at almost any price. However, this situation is again possible only with a significant increase in the income of the main part of the population (a number of respondents with a high level of income and social status ranked the factors in this way).

Consequently, if the trend of at least weak economic growth continues, then the distribution of factors by importance will be exactly as experts see it.

The least important factors, from the point of view of experts: country - clothing manufacturer; uniqueness of style, model; brand.

Apparently, this opinion is due to a large number of low-quality clothes from China, Turkey, etc. Therefore, if there is a sufficient amount of high-quality clothes, the buyer will not pay attention to the country in which the clothes are produced, but will make a purchasing decision based on other factors.

It is necessary to pay attention to the factor of weak influence of the brand. This situation is explained by a low consumption culture (the situation is characterized by unqualified demand of a significant number of end consumers) and low sensitivity to marketing tools in the segment chosen by the Enterprise.

At the same time, global and even Russian experience confidently demonstrate that a trademark (if used correctly) is one of the most effective tools of the marketing mix.

2.3.2 Respondents’ attitude towards the “N” brand

A preliminary note. The name of an enterprise, which is traditionally perceived as a trademark, cannot act in such a capacity on strictly legal grounds. Since there are still several enterprises operating in Russia with a name that includes “N”, this brand cannot fulfill its main function - to clearly distinguish one product from another. From the point of view of the law “On trademarks and service marks”, this name may be considered unprotectable and will not be registered in the manner prescribed by law, which is necessary for organizing a growing business in this type of activity.

As for the results of this study on attitudes towards the “N” brand, 50% of respondents responded that they knew such a brand. However, most of them spoke negatively about the quality and image of clothing produced under this brand.

For a more objective assessment of consumer attitudes towards the “N” brand, a study was conducted using the semantic differential method (questionnaire - in Appendix 4). For the “N” brand, respondents named the most striking characteristics: conservatism, democracy, simplicity.

Negative characteristics are: forgetfulness; passivity; weakness.

It is necessary to work on these characteristics and change the opinion of consumers in order to improve the image and increase the attractiveness of the “N” brand.

Neutral brand evaluations should also be avoided. Such characteristics must be translated into positive ones in order to increase consumers’ disposition towards their brand.

Overall, the study showed that the factory has an intangible asset in the form of a brand, which is currently not used. Although some elements of the brand seem to need improvement, in general there is already an established brand image that needs to be used for positioning purposes for a conservative consumer segment (elderly people, residents of rural areas and urban outskirts, etc.).

However, for most consumers (especially young ones) it seems appropriate to develop a new brand that will express their moods and needs and will not generate the above-mentioned negative associations.

It is alarming that 54% of respondents have a negative attitude towards Omsk brands and consider it impossible that a local brand will be famous throughout the world. Many respondents stated that they do not care at all, which also has a negative character. Moreover, this opinion is mainly expressed by men, regardless of age. Women, on the contrary, with age begin to hope that the Omsk brand can become famous all over the world (for women over 35 years old, this share is 61%).

From the consumer's point of view, the following factors influencing the purchase of clothing are of little importance: country of origin; brand; compliance with fashion; uniqueness of style, model.

Moreover, the first two factors are approximately equal in assessment, as are the next two. Thus, in this regard, the opinions of consumers and experts converged (both on the factors and on the assessment of the significance of these factors).

Consumers also mentioned the following factors influencing the purchase: accessories; color scheme; style; fit to the figure; practicality.

Experts also mentioned: the possibility of combinations; package; quality of service; modern material. All these factors were indicated in almost single quantities, however, if such an opinion exists, it can serve as a starting point for the development of a new original concept. After all, if an enterprise is the first to take these factors into account, it will receive certain competitive advantages.

Thus, based on the assessment of factors, the following competitive advantages can be identified:

• price;
• quality and durability;
• functionality and quality.

It is necessary to develop the following areas that will bring more tangible competitive advantages in the future:

• compliance with fashion;
• improving the brand image;
• possibility of clothing combinations;
• modern material;
• quality of service (for which it is necessary to develop, among other things, our own trading network, and for the development of a network of dealers, their rather careful selection and training is necessary).

2.3.3 Description of reference groups

When buying clothes, consumers are very often interested in someone else's opinion. However, 72% of respondents reserve the final say. A significant influence of fashion magazines on choice was noted (9% of respondents), but mainly for those who sew on their own or from a dressmaker. Another 6% of respondents listen to the advice of their spouse when buying clothes.

It is noteworthy that very few consumers want to dress like others, although the uniqueness factor of a style or model is rated quite low. In all likelihood, this is explained by the fact that consumers agree to have things with the same styles, but these things should be different in some way.

The opinions of women are influenced by the same reference groups, however, with age, the influence of fashion magazines and the opinions of children increases (9 and 0% for women under 35 years of age and 11 and 11% for women over 35 years of age). Moreover, this change occurs at the expense of those who previously chose clothes themselves.

Men are very interested in the opinion of their spouse (11%), slightly less (7%) are influenced by friends and acquaintances. Other people have little influence on their choices. After 35 years, the number of men choosing on their own decreases (from 78 to 60%), and accordingly, the number of consumers interested in the opinion of their spouse has increased to 20%, 10% began to dress the same as others, 10% listen to the opinions of friends and acquaintances.

The following factors have also been suggested:

• I wear what I have;
• I buy what suits me;
• taste and ability to pay.

When designing clothing and planning an advertising campaign, it is necessary to take into account the opinions of reference groups of consumers.

2.3.4 Purchasing process

After analyzing the factors influencing the process of buying clothes, let's look at the buying process itself.

The majority of respondents (71%) buy ready-made clothing - these are potential consumers of JSC "N". Much fewer (26%) sew from a dressmaker, while 18% sew on their own. Some of these people can be attracted as clients by offering custom tailoring services, with some “twist”, so that consumers decide that it is more profitable for them to sew in the “N” atelier.

Of those who sew on their own or from a dressmaker, 41% do not like the range of ready-made clothes, 40% do so because of the cheapness and 31% because of their figure. Some people like to sew or want to be different. Thus, under certain conditions, the number of buyers of ready-made clothing can be increased to 80%.

Among women, the distribution between buyers of ready-made clothing and those who sew is somewhat different. 65% buy ready-made clothes (under 35 years - 62%, and over 35 years - 78%). 31 and 23%, respectively, sew from a dressmaker or on their own. However, among women under 35 years of age, the percentage of those who sew with a dressmaker is 41%, and for women over this age it is 23%. This situation fits perfectly with the assessment of the importance of factors influencing the purchase of clothing.

Among those who sew their own clothes, the majority do not like the assortment of ready-made clothes (this percentage is especially high among women under 35 years old - 33%), in second place is cheapness (this factor is especially important for middle-aged and elderly women - 22%). The percentage of those who sew from a dressmaker or on their own, due to the characteristics of their figure, is also quite high - about 17%.

For men, the situation is different - 90% buy ready-made clothes. Those who sew clothes in ateliers and private tailors are not satisfied with the range of ready-made clothes (although 4% of men under 35 years old indicated their body shape as a reason for turning to tailors).

The majority of the population does not have clear preferences regarding clothing (for 45% of respondents, it does not matter who makes the clothes they buy). However, 25% prefer imported clothes and only 18% buy domestic ones.

It is also necessary to pay attention to the 16% who buy “branded” clothing (under “branded” clothing, researchers believe this study goods, well packaged, equipped with colorful price tags, labels, tags with the names of certain companies). If there is a well-promoted brand, these buyers can become consumers of the new brand of JSC “N”.

Women's clothing preferences change dramatically. So, if 56% of women under 35 years of age are indifferent to the country of origin, then for older women this percentage is 41%. If women under the age of 35 prefer imported clothing (21 versus 9% of domestically produced clothing), then older women prefer domestically produced clothing (30 versus 24% imported).

Men, on the other hand, prefer clothes either “branded” or imported (31 and 29%, respectively). Moreover, for consumers under the age of 35, branded clothing dominates over all other options. But with age, the majority of men (50%) become indifferent to what clothes to buy, although the share of men who prefer imported clothes remains consistently high (40%).

It should also be noted that among men of all ages the proportion of those who prefer domestic clothing is quite low (9-10%).

2.4. Analysis of clothing preferences among the target audience

When assessing market share, one cannot do without assessing the capacity (size) of the market.

The results were the determination of the potential market capacity and, based on the analysis of internal documents (sales reports), the market share occupied by the enterprise was calculated. The study was conducted during the same time frame as the main survey and was based on the same sample.

These studies showed that the population uses all types of products produced by JSC “N”. Moreover, from 55% (coats) to 95% (suits) have traditionally produced goods “N” (suits and demi-season coats). At the same time, people who own these products, as a rule, wear them and make sure they are replaced regularly.

A negative factor is the rare change of clothes (the fastest - for suits - 2-3 years). However, much depends on the income and gender of the respondents. Women tend to change costumes more often than men.

Consumers with high incomes are more likely to change their clothes than consumers with low incomes (income was determined indirectly - a question of social status). With age, turnover becomes less frequent. This is due to less careful monitoring of fashion trends and a drop in income levels (for pensioners), as well as a decrease in activity (there is no desire to visit stores often and thus keep abreast of events related to fashion).

Warm jackets, fur coats and sheepskin coats are changed the least often. This is due to the high price of these things, as well as their sufficient strength and durability.

The frequency of changing clothes is also negatively affected by the fact that 60% of the population continues to wear things that are out of fashion, which lengthens the cycle of changing clothes, almost to complete completion wear period of the product.

Market capacity was calculated based on the population's expenditure on clothing, the proportions of clothing, fabric and linen production, as well as on the basis of the population ratio in different regions.

2.5. Enterprise distribution system analysis

As for where they buy clothes, the vast majority of the population “gets dressed” in wholesale markets (60%), 36% - in specialized clothing stores, approximately 10% each - in branded stores of manufacturing enterprises or in fashion shops (boutiques), 4% purchase clothes in Moscow and/or abroad.

Younger buyers prefer branded stores of manufacturing enterprises (29%), boutiques (20) and specialized clothing stores (18%) to bazaars and wholesale markets.

It should be noted that among men over 35 years of age, specialized clothing stores predominate among places of clothing purchase - 60%, wholesale markets - 40, boutiques - 20, branded stores - 10%.

Moreover, the majority of consumers (50%) of both genders visit stores/wholesale markets once a season (i.e., they expect to purchase a product that they will wear throughout the season). Most often, when they come to a wholesale market/store, they already have a clear idea of ​​what they want to buy and quickly make the purchase.

According to experts, the preference for places of purchase should be as follows:

• large specialized clothing stores (83% of experts);
• in their own branded stores (69%);
• at wholesale fairs (52%);
• boutiques (30%).

In addition, 15% of experts each suggested distributing clothing through a network of wholesalers and through a network of sales representatives. One of the experts suggested using the Internet.

As for the existing sales network of CJSC N, it is almost non-existent. Sales and marketing departments do not stimulate demand in any way, but simply wait for buyers to come to them.

The logical explanation for this policy is the lack of money. However, financial resources are necessary for advertising, and significant financial resources are not required to create a distribution system (it is possible to interest private entrepreneurs in the goods of JSC “N” by providing them with commissions).

As a result of the almost complete lack of implementation through the system retail and working with corporate clients on a barter basis, there are almost no real cash flows, which further increases costs and reduces competitiveness.

2.6. Analysis of the degree of marketing training of personnel

Another factor hindering the development of the enterprise is the insufficient qualifications of personnel in relation to marketing. To analyze the current situation, interviews were conducted with the personnel of the marketing department, the head of the marketing department and commercial director Enterprises. The employees of this service demonstrated the enterprise’s orientation towards the production concept (production comes first, sales will be organized somehow; the consumer will come himself). However, today such a position seems passive and irrelevant. Nowadays there is quite a tough competition in the market for the consumer, and the way of thinking “Everything that is produced will definitely be sold” is deeply mistaken.

Throughout the interview, the emphasis was not on the needs of the market, but on the fact that the factory does not have money to purchase raw materials and, therefore, cannot produce the number of products necessary to break even.

Thus, the enterprise needs to change the internal philosophy and goals of the company in order to become customer-oriented.

A distribution system that meets the expectations of experts can only be created by investing a certain amount of money in the development of a network of own stores (or branded departments), working with specialized stores, etc. Therefore, at the moment it is necessary to work directly in those places where consumers prefer to buy . However, if you have the necessary resources, it is necessary to begin creating a sales network in accordance with the proposals of experts, since this will contribute to the growth of the popularity of JSC “N”, the increase in the value of its goods, and therefore an increase in profits.

So, let's summarize some results. The market is saturated with textile products. The bulk of goods sold are inexpensive products from China, Turkey, Poland, Vietnam (50-60%). Russia and the CIS countries account for about 25-30% of the market. The high-end segment is the smallest and most expensive. At the same time, analyzing the competitive environment of JSC “N”, the following conclusions can be drawn:

• the assortment of JSC “N” is not presented in stores and fairs in the city;
• the main competitors are domestic manufacturers from Moscow, St. Petersburg and Novosibirsk;
• imported low-quality clothing predominates in wholesale markets;
• Domestic manufacturers do not have label design.

The big problem of the factory is its size, that is, a huge number of assets, which are also very outdated and their residual value is practically zero. This negatively affects the efficiency of the enterprise. Today, the enterprise also has outdated technologies that do not allow quickly rebuilding production, and this is very important in the clothing business.

The share of barter in the company's calculations is 81%. As a result, the enterprise experiences a serious shortage of working capital, the cost price increases, and, consequently, the price, which leads to the refusal of consumers to purchase clothes of a non-prestigious brand at a high price.

Based on the analysis of factors influencing the consumer’s decision to purchase clothing, we can name the following number of competitive advantages of JSC “N”. This is a wealth of experience in sewing certain products, a well-known brand in the local market, high quality products, high standards regarding hygienic requirements for clothing.

However, brand awareness is rather negative and its characteristics most often express negative trends. It is precisely because of a number of such characteristics (dark, unambitious, etc.) that consumers do not consider it necessary to buy such products. Consideration of the situation with the “N” trademark should be continued. To do this, it is necessary to conduct an experiment on consumer preferences for a certain brand in one of the points of sale. At the same time, it is advisable to start developing new brands.

At the moment, sales channels have been reduced to a minimum size. There is one company store that cannot perform its functions in full. There is no accounting or control of work with wholesalers. There is no feedback from consumers.

Top and middle managers work within outdated management schemes, which prevents them from quickly responding to constantly changing external conditions and bring your ideas to life. The key to success can and should be competent management, changes in the organizational structure and technologies within this structure. Marketing department employees adhere to the production concept and do not show any desire to change their worldview towards the consumer, which indicates their lack of qualifications and inconsistency with their goals.

First of all, focus on women over 35 years old, since in this segment the factory has the most strong positions. She needs to make the greatest efforts to conquer the male segment. However, from the point of view of profitability, the male and young female segments are more attractive, since they have much more funds, and they change their wardrobe more often and follow fashion.

Consequently, JSC “N” in the short term needs to focus on such factors as finding the optimal price-quality ratio, as well as improving the quality and style of products. The distribution of efforts must be concentrated in the following segments:

• wholesale markets;
• specialized clothing stores;
• branded stores.

In the long term, it is necessary to focus on creating a large network of our own retail outlets and working with specialized stores.

Since stores do not refuse to work with domestic manufacturers, it is necessary to enter this distribution channel, but with a solid and well-developed trademark and a well-executed label. It is also possible to supply unbranded clothing to wholesalers who will sell it under their own brand.

It is necessary to focus on the segment of raincoats and coats, which are currently presented at wholesale fairs and do not have a favorable price-quality ratio.

It is necessary to position your products as good quality, high quality and relatively cheap (the only tool in the competition with Russian manufacturers at this stage is price - for other brands this also takes into account transport costs).

A unique product offering will be high-quality, durable, comfortable, durable, non-staining, repairable, inexpensive, simple clothing for everyday wear.

Thus, the information collected during this marketing analysis should serve as a source of primary data for the development of subsequent important documents: a strategic development plan for JSC “N”, a new organizational structure of the enterprise, a sales and promotion system. It is also proposed that consultants conduct a series of meetings with the company’s personnel to highlight development prospects. For the same purposes, it is recommended to organize the collection of proposals from the team to improve the situation at the enterprise on a systematic basis. Consultants can undertake generalization and processing.

Shastin Anatoly Vasilyevich, graduate student of the Department of Economic Theory, Politics and Law at Omsk State University of Transport, General Director of the TriO company.

Email: [email protected].

Appendix 1

Questionnaire No. 1.

Thank you in advance for your cooperation. Your answers will be anonymous.

1. Do you follow fashion trends in clothing?

1.1 yes
1.2 no

2. How do you prefer to update your wardrobe?

2.1 I buy ready-made clothes
2.2 I sew on my own
2.3 I sew from a dressmaker (from friends)
2.4 other (what exactly?_________________________________________________)

3. If you chose 2.2 in the previous question. or 2.3., then you sew yourself or from a dressmaker, because:

• it's cheaper;
• this is due to the characteristics of the figure;
• I don’t like the range of ready-made clothes
• other (what exactly?_______________________ _________________________)

4. Who has the greatest influence on your choice when purchasing clothes:

4.1 relatives (who exactly?_______________ ___________________________)
4.2 friends and acquaintances
4.3 I choose myself
4.4 fashion magazines
4.5 I try to dress the same as others
4.6 other (what exactly?_____________ ___________________________________)

5. What clothes do you prefer to buy?

5.1 domestic production
5.2 imported production
5.3 “branded”
5.4 I don't care

6. How many brands of Russian clothing manufacturers do you know?

6.1 none;
6.2 1-2 (specify_________________________________________________)
6.3 3-5 (specify_________________________________________________)
6.4 more than five (specify________________________________________________)

7. How important are the following criteria for you when buying clothes? (“1” - not at all important, “5” - very important)

fashion matching 1 2 3 4 5

price 1 2 3 4 5
brand 1 2 3 4 5

8. Where do you usually buy clothes?

8.1 specialty clothing stores
8.2 small fashion stores (boutiques)
8.3 bazaars, wholesale markets
8.4 branded stores of manufacturing enterprises
8.5 in Moscow, abroad
8.6 other (what exactly?__________________________________________________________)

9. Do you believe that the Omsk clothing brand can become famous all over the world?

9.1 yes 9.2 no 9.3 I don’t care

10.1 female 10.2 male

11. Age:

11.1 under 18 years old 11.5 46-55
11.2 19-25 11.6 56-65
11.3 26-35 11.7 over 65 years old
11.4 36-45

12. Education:

12.1 incomplete secondary 12.2 secondary 12.3 higher

13. Marital status:

13.1 single (not married) 13.2 married (married)

14. How many children are in your family?_________________________________________________

15. Social group _____________________________________________________

Appendix 2

Questionnaire No. 2
Expert Questionnaire

1. How do you think the shares of sales of clothing produced in different countries are distributed in our region?

1.1 Russia (including studios and private owners) _______%
1.2 CIS countries (Belarus, Ukraine, etc.) ________%
1.3 Türkiye, China, Vietnam _______%
1.4 European countries (Italy, Germany, France) _______%
1.5 Other countries (Which ones?___________________________)

2. How do you think the shares of sales in our region of clothing produced in different countries will be distributed in 4-5 years?

2.1 Russia (including studios and private owners) _______%
2.2 CIS countries (Belarus, Ukraine, etc.) ________%
2.3 Türkiye, China, Vietnam _______%
2.4 European countries (Italy, Germany, France) _______%
2.5 Other countries (Which ones?___________________________)

3. How important do you think the following parameters are for clothing buyers?

(“1” - not at all important, “5” - very important)
fashion matching 1 2 3 4 5
functionality, quality 1 2 3 4 5
price 1 2 3 4 5
brand 1 2 3 4 5
uniqueness of style, models 1 2 3 4 5
quality factor, durability 1 2 3 4 5
country of origin 1 2 3 4 5
other (what exactly?_________________) 1 2 3 4 5

4. What volume of a batch of outerwear of one style (article) is profitable to produce?

4.1 up to 100 pieces
4.2 101-1,000 pieces
4.3 1,001-10,000 pieces
4.4 10,001-100,000 pieces
4.5 different opinion (Which one?______________________________)

5. How to sell clothes to Omsk manufacturers? (multiple answers possible)

5.1 In fashion stores (boutiques)
5.2 with the help of large wholesale organizations
5.3 at wholesale fairs, bazaars
5.4 in own branded stores
5.5 with the help of sales agents
5.6 in large specialized clothing stores
5.7 another way (which?_________________________________)

6. Name of the expert, field of activity_________________________________

Appendix No. 3.

Questionnaire No. 3

Dear Omsk residents, this study is being carried out by order of JSC “N” to study the demand for its products and improve the assortment.

Thank you for your cooperation. Your answers will be anonymous.

Check off the items in your wardrobe from the list below.

1.1 fur coat 1.5 warm jacket
1.2 sheepskin coat 1.6 windbreaker jacket
1.3 winter coat 1.7 raincoat
1.4 demi-season coat 1.8 suit

Please indicate how often you replace the following items in your wardrobe

Do you prefer to wear a suit?

3.1 trouser
3.2 with skirt
3.3 small dress with jacket
3.4 another option (which one?__________________________________________)

How many suits are in your wardrobe?

4.1 none 4.4 three
4.2 one 4.5 more than three
4.3 two

How often do you visit clothing stores/wholesale markets?

5.1. once a week
5.2 twice a month
5.3 times a month
5.4 times per season
5.5 Other __________
_

If you come to a clothing store/wholesale market, then you...

6.1. You already know what you want to buy and make a purchase quickly
6.2. You spend a long time choosing, comparing and only then buying clothes
6.3. Just get acquainted with the assortment
6.4. Other______________

What do you do with clothes that are out of fashion?

7.1. I throw it away
7.2. I'm taking you to the dacha
7.3. I'm walking at home
7.4. I continue to wear
7.5. Other

8.1 female 8.2 male

Age:

9.1 under 18 years old 9.5 46-55
9.2 19-25 9.6 56-65
9.3 26-35 9.7 over 65 years old
9.4 36-45

Education:

10.1 incomplete secondary
10.2 average
12.3 higher

Marital status:

11.1 single (not married)
11.2 married.

Social and professional status_______________________________

Appendix No. 4.
Semantic differentiation of product brands

“Please put marks on the semantic scale that correspond, in your opinion, to the places occupied by the trademarks of Russian clothing manufacturers “Tom Clym” (icon *), “N” (icon +), and “Milori” (icon 0) "

(Zero mark means, for example, “neither expensive, nor cheap” or “none”; mark 4 means a strongly expressed parameter, “very famous”, etc.)

The pilot study was conducted from May 10 to May 19, 2000 among residents of the city of Omsk. The sample was randomly selected. 30 people took part in the survey. Respondents were offered a semantic differential (Osgood scale) of three product brands: “Tom Clym”, “N”, “Milori”. Respondents were offered 24 pairs of antonyms (for example, expensive - cheap, high-quality - low-quality), they had to choose the most suitable definitions for each brand, making a scale rating from 0 (neutral attitude) to 4 (strongly expressed parameter).

The pilot study showed that the “N” brand is known, but respondents’ opinions about the brand’s image vary greatly. The report will contain averaged images (the arithmetic mean method was used for data processing).

The greatest differences are observed between the profiles of the “N” and “Tom Clym” brands. Next, we highlight the positions for which the differences are maximum (two scale points).

So, the greatest differences in the “N” and “Tom Clym” brands, according to respondents, are the following:

• “forgotten - well-known”, “Tom Clym” is a more famous brand (scale rating 2), “N” - forgotten brand (scale rating 1);
• “modern - old-fashioned”, “Tom Clym”, according to respondents, is a modern brand (score 2), “N” is an old-fashioned brand (scale score 1);
• “stylish - unstylish”, “Tom Clym” is a more stylish brand (its rating on the Osgut scale is 2), “N”, on the contrary, is an unstylish brand (score 1);
• “democratic - elitist”, “Tom Clym” is an elite brand and its rating is 2, “N”, on the contrary, the brand is more democratic (its rating is 1);
• “local - Russian”, “N” is now a more local brand in the eyes of respondents (score 2), “Tom Clym” is a Russian brand (score 1);
• “passive - active”, “N” is a passive brand (scale rating 1), “Tom Clym” is an active brand and its rating is 2;
• “ambitious - modest”, “Tom Clym”, according to respondents, is a fairly ambitious brand (score 2), “N” is a more modest brand (score 1);
• “elegant - simple” and “fashionable - unfashionable”, “Tom Clym” is a more elegant and fashionable brand (2 ratings), while “N”, in the eyes of respondents, is a simple and unfashionable brand (1 rating).

There are also several striking differences between the N and Milori brands. The two points of the scale distinguish between categories such as:

• "young - old"
• "cheerful - sad"
• "color or black and white."

The Milori brand, compared to N, is a younger, more cheerful and colorful brand (ratings 2). “N” - the brand is elderly, sad and black and white (score 1).

In addition, respondents believe that the “N” brand is neither expensive nor cheap, while they believe that “Milori” and “Tom Clym” are more expensive brands.

The Tom Clym and Milori brands are equally open (score 1), “N” is in a neutral position (score 0). “N” and “Milori” are equally feminine brands (scale mark 1), while “Tom Clym”, according to respondents, is a more feminine brand.

In terms of quality, all three brands occupy the same position (scale rating 1).

"N" is the most forgotten of the three brands (scale rating 1). “Milori” and “Tom Clym” are well-known brands (brands 1 and 2 are famous, respectively).

According to respondents, “N” is also the most old-fashioned brand (scale rating 0), “Tom Clym” - modern scale rating 2, “Milori” - scale rating 1.

In terms of the parameters comfortable - inconvenient, respondents also put the “N” brand in a neutral position (they had not fully decided on this category). At the same time, they named the Tom Clym brand the most convenient (scale rating 2), in second place was Milori (convenience rating 1).

The oldest brand turned out to be “N” (its rating is 1), “Milori” and “Tom Clym” are younger brands (scale rating 2 and 1, respectively).

“N” is also the most conservative brand (scale rating 1), “Milori” and “Tom Clym” are modernist brands (scale rating 1). In addition, according to respondents, “N” is also the least stylish brand (unstylish rating 1), “Milori” is a stylish brand (score 1), “Tom Clym” is a stylish brand (score 2).

“N” is the most democratic brand (democraticity score 2), “Milori” (neutral), “Tom Clym” is the most elitist brand (score 1). In a pair of antonyms, intelligent is the simple, most intelligent brand “Tom Clym” (score 1), “N” is the simplest brand (score 1), “Milori” is neutral.

In the pair local - Russian “N” and “Milori” are equally local brands (score 1). "Tom Clym" is a Russian brand (score 2).

While "Milori" and "Tom Clyme" are cheerful brands (scores of 2 and 1, respectively), "N" is a sad brand (score of 1). In addition, Milori and Tom Clym are more attractive brands in the eyes of consumers compared to N.

"N" for consumers is a dark brand (score 1), while "Milori" and "Tom Clym" are light brands (score 1).

"N" is between "Milori" and "Tom Clym" in terms of size. "Milori" is smaller than "N", and "Tom Clym" is a larger brand.

“N” is the most passive brand (score 1), while the most active is “Tom Clym” (score 2), in second place is “Milori” (score 1). Also, “N”, according to respondents, is the most modest brand (score 1), the most ambitious brand is Tom Clym (score 2).

The respondents named “Tom Clym” (score 1) the strongest brand, the weakest “N” (score 1), “Milori” is a neutral brand in this regard. Respondents consider Milori to be the friendliest brand (score 1), Tom Clym and N occupy a neutral position.

Respondents named the brand “Milori” as the most colorful brand (score 2), the most black and white - “N” (score 1), “Tom Clym” is between these brands.

The most elegant and fashionable brand is “Tom Clym” (2 ratings), the simplest and most unfashionable is “N” (1 rating), “Milori” ratings are in the middle part of the scale.

Thus, for “N” respondents named the most striking characteristics: conservatism, democracy, simplicity.

These characteristics should be considered in future work when targeting the conservative consumer segment.

Negative characteristics are: forgetfulness, passivity, weakness.

It is necessary to work on these characteristics and change the opinion of consumers when positioning the brand. In addition, it would be nice if the brand was more friendly in the eyes of consumers.

Neutral brand evaluations should also be avoided. So, it’s better for a brand to be comfortable and attractive than “neither this nor that.” It is easier to translate such characteristics into a positive direction, since consumers have not yet decided.

Thus, the study showed that the factory has a solid intangible asset in the form of a brand, which today is clearly underutilized. This asset needs some improvement, but overall it is already established positive image brand "N" to be used.

Appendix No. 5.
List of questions for collecting primary information about the work of the marketing department of JSC "N"

1. What do you think can be done to get the company out of its current situation?
2. Is the structure of the enterprise and its marketing department working properly? Should the organizational structure of the enterprise be changed?
3. What do you see as your role as a marketing department in this process?
4. How do you see the goals of the company? What needs to be achieved in the near future?
5. How do you see the image of your company?
6. In your opinion, should the “N” brand be left or changed? If so, what should the new brand(s) be?
7. The maximum possible, real and minimum possible output volume (in pieces).
8. Please determine the range of products produced at the moment and its changes depending on the season.
9. Frequency of assortment changes. Do you know the data on how often the average person updates their wardrobe?
10. What is the frequency of changing uniforms in the police, army, etc.?
11. Please highlight the goods that are most easily sold and bring the greatest profit to the enterprise, i.e. locomotive goods.
12. Do you think it is possible to narrow the range? If so, what do you think should be focused on?
13. Determine the market share “N” by product groups in the Omsk region.
14. Who are your main competitors? How do you assess their positions in the Omsk and Russian markets? Can you name their strengths and weaknesses?
15. What do you think are the strengths and weaknesses of your company?
16. What does the sales system look like at the moment (through what channels are sales going)?
17. What is the ratio of corporate to end consumers?
18. How, in your opinion, should the sales system be organized for it to be effective (what is the best way to sell your products)?
19. List of consumer enterprises. Is work organized with regular clients?
20. How do you imagine typical consumers of your products?
21. Is there feedback from the consumer (private, corporate, wholesale)?
22. On what basis are production plans drawn up?
23. How is the potential demand for the company's products calculated? Is work on studying demand carried out in accordance with the list of main indicators necessary when studying demand?
24. What determines the composition of the artistic council and the technology of its work? Where do new models come from? Who determines the volume of production of specific products?
25. Name the main costing items that make up the cost. Which articles have the greatest share?
26. What is causing the almost monthly jumps in profitability?
27. What do you think the production process at the enterprise should look like (from plan to sales).
28. How is market information collected (sources, processing methods, type of report)?
29. Typical average advertising and promotion costs? Recoil?
30. Plan of advertising and other events. How are the timing of events determined?
31. Was work carried out on the questionnaire for school uniform? Is there a report?
32. Who compiled the job description? What are your qualifications? Studies?
33. What can we (external consultants) do for the marketing department? What's missing first?

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The branch of the Suitmen company in the Sughd region in Khujand will provide services to residents of the entire region. And also the choice was made as a result of an analysis of the size of the resident population by age category in the Sughd region at the end of 2009.

The size of the resident population by age category in the Sughd region, at the end of 2009.

Table 1

Thus, we found that the permanent population aged 25-29 - youth - makes up the majority in the analyzed groups. From the survey it was revealed that it is this age category that seeks to buy clothes (for educational foundation centers, weddings, etc.).

To plan and implement an effective marketing strategy, it is first necessary to provide a clear and reasonable definition of who exactly the consumers of our services are, and who could become them. In this regard, a number of questions arise to be resolved, which are carried out by marketing research. To conduct marketing research to identify market capacity in the business of selling men's outerwear in the Sughd region, we implemented the following activities:

• 1. A questionnaire was developed aimed at identifying the interests of potential clients, to determine the gradation of acceptable prices and to identify criteria by which potential clients can be grouped or divided into segments.
• 2. A survey of residents of the Sughd region was conducted.

1. Product which country do you prefer? a) Türkiye b) China c) Italy G) ________ 2. What clothes do you like best? a) sports b) classical V) ___________ 3. Which store would you like to buy clothes from? a) Suitmen b) Nur c) Popolare d) Javoni d) ________ 4. Which material do you like best? a) wool b) cotton c) synthphone d) cramplin d) ________

5. Why would you like to buy clothes from the “Suitmen” shopping store? a) quality b) price V) _______ 6. Are the prices at the “Suitmen” retail store reasonable? a) yes b) no 7. What method of communication with the “Suitmen” trading store is convenient for you? a) by phone b) online applications c) personal contact 8. Will the electronic version (website) of the “Suitmen” trading store be convenient for you? a) dub) no 9. Will you have problems with authorization? a) dub) no 13. Would you recommend this shopping store to your friends? a) yes b) no

Survey result

Assessment of the activities of the shopping store "SUITMEN"

This study sets itself the task of identifying the strengths and weaknesses of a retail store in order to further improve and improve the activities of the clinic.

50 respondents participated in the survey.

The survey showed that of the respondents, 45 respondents (90%) buy goods made in Turkey, and 3 respondents (6%) made in China, as well as 2 respondents (4%) made in Dubai.

The next question showed that of the respondents, 18 respondents (36%) buy goods from the “Popular” store, and out of 12 respondents (24%) prefer to buy goods from the “Nur” store, and 10 respondents (20%) prefer goods from store “Javoni”, and 10 respondents (20%) prefer goods from the store “Sutmen”.

Clients believe that the most best material This:

wool 25 (50%)

cotton 25 (50%)

Respondents also answered the question why they prefer to buy clothes from this store:

Because of the price, 2 respondents (4%);

Due to quality 8 respondents (16%);

And 40 respondents (80%) have not yet purchased goods from this store.

The affordability of the retail store was assessed as follows:

"prices are reasonable" - 10 (20%)

"prices are unacceptable" - 0 (0%)

"I don't know" - 40 (80%)

The respondents were also interested in in the best possible way in connection with the "Suitmen" shopping store, to which they responded as follows:

• 29 (54.16%) respondents answered that they were satisfied with telephone communication
• 13 (16.66%) respondents are not against “online applications”
• 8 (29.16%) respondents prefer “personal contact”

Regarding the electronic version (website) of the retail store, respondents expressed their answers as follows:

45 (90%) respondents had a positive attitude

5 (10%) respondents had a negative attitude

Conclusion and conclusions

Thus, the study showed that the "Suitmen" shopping store is not very popular among the population. The conditions and services of the trading store are good quality goods. At the same time, the competence and communication skills of staff require improvement; therefore, it is necessary to conduct training on communication skills for staff.

Product prices are quite low.

To attract more new clients:

expansion of the service package;

by reducing prices for services;

by introducing a system of discounts for regular customers.

Respondents also indicated that they were not against creating a store website for easier access to information.

Overall, the work at the store is satisfactory.

Competitors of the men's outerwear store "Suitmen"

The main competitors of the private enterprise "Suitmen" in the domestic market are all stores selling outerwear for men located in the region and carrying out and providing services. The main ones are:

Table 2.

Competitors of the designed men's outerwear store

Characteristics of competitiveness.
The level of quality of the service provided.
Range of services provided
Service level
Sales of goods per month
Store location.		Not far from the center	Not far from the center	Not far from the center
Providing discounts

Table 3

SWOT - analysis of the men's outerwear store "Suitmen"

Present
Strengths of the store	Store Features
Trading room The buyer walks around the sales floor and inspects the goods on the shelves of the Store Personal contact between buyer and seller (consultation) Buyer's choice of product Ordering goods Extract by the seller and delivery to the buyer of an invoice for payment	Virtual store Buyer viewing server pages Consultation with the seller (if necessary) via computer network or telephone Buyer's choice of product Ordering goods through the server Sending an invoice for payment by the seller via computer networks to the buyer
Weaknesses of the store	Threats to the store
You cannot “touch”, you cannot find out more than what is written (example: furniture, clothes) Warranty and support problems Often long delivery	Global economic crisis Presence of competition. Burglars Equipment failures Dependency on delivery service Software errors Changes in policy and taxation Limited system capacity

Threats to the store.

• 1. The global economic crisis and the associated depreciation of the national currency, in connection with this, a decrease in purchasing power among the population;
• 2. intense competition;

If you open a kiosk on the street, assessing the competitive environment is not difficult; competitors will be everyone who sells the same product within sight. In the case of e-commerce, the situation is somewhat more complicated.

Depending on shipping costs, and also taking into account currency fluctuations and differences in labor costs, competitors can be located anywhere. The Internet is a highly competitive and rapidly evolving environment. In popular business sectors, new competitors emerge almost daily.

3. burglars;

The most popular threat to e-commerce comes from computer hackers. Any enterprise is subject to the threat of attack by criminals, and large e-commerce enterprises attract the attention of computer hackers of various skill levels.

The reasons for this attention are varied. In some cases it is simply a “purely sporting” interest, in others it is a thirst for fame, attempts to steal money. Site security is ensured by a combination of the following measures:

Back up important information

Using software with data protection capabilities and updating it in a timely manner.

Auditing and logging to detect successful and unsuccessful hacking attempts

Typically, hacking is successful due to easy-to-guess passwords, common configuration errors, and failure to update software versions in a timely manner. To protect against a not-so-sophisticated burglar, it is enough to take relatively simple measures; as a last resort, there should always be a backup copy of critical data.

4. equipment failures;

It is clear that the failure of an important part of one of the computers of a company whose activities are concentrated on the Web can cause significant damage to it.

Protection against downtime for sites running under high load or performing important functions, is ensured by duplication, so that the failure of any component does not affect the functioning of the entire system. However, here too it is necessary to evaluate the losses from possible downtime in comparison with the costs of purchasing additional equipment

5. failures of power, communication lines, networks and delivery services;

Dependency on the Internet means dependence on many interconnected service providers, so if the connection with the rest of the world suddenly breaks down, there is nothing left to do but wait for it to be restored. The same applies to power outages and strikes or other disruptions to the delivery company.

6. software errors;

When a business depends on software, it is vulnerable to bugs in that software.

The likelihood of critical failures can be minimized by installing reliable software, thorough testing after each replacement of faulty hardware, and the use of formal testing procedures. It is very important to accompany any innovations to the system with thorough testing.

7. changes in policy and taxation;

In many countries, e-business activities are not defined (or not sufficiently defined) by law. However, this situation cannot persist forever, and the settlement of the issue will lead to a number of problems that could lead to the closure of some enterprises. In addition, there is always the danger of higher taxes.

8. limited system capacity.

At the design stage of the system, it is imperative to provide for the possibility of its growth. Success is inextricably linked to loads, so the system must allow for equipment expansion.

A limited increase in performance can be achieved by replacing hardware, but the speed of even the most advanced computer has a limit, so the software must provide the ability to distribute the load across several systems until the specified limit is reached. For example, a database management system must be able to process requests from multiple machines simultaneously.