The article was read by 170 pet owners

Canine acute moist dermatitis is a form of canine pyoderma, also known as hot spots. Hot spots (spots) are red, moist, irritated areas of the skin, often caused by an initial skin irritation and then worsened by a bacterial infection. The irritated patches of skin may become larger within a few hours and may be very painful.

Common sites of involvement are the head, neck, hips and limbs. First, areas of caked fur appear, then the fur begins to fall out and the spots become wet.

Hot spots are more common in long-haired dog breeds. summer time during periods high temperature and humidity.

Hot spots are the result of bacterial infection. In some places, irritation appears on the skin, the dog begins to scratch and lick, and eventually the spots begin to turn red and hurt. Treatment should focus on eliminating the infection itself.

• itching on a painful area of ​​skin
• Constantly biting or licking the same area
• aggressiveness (related to illness)
• mental depression
• inflammation, redness and swelling in diseased areas of the skin
• scabs or weeping sores
• dry scaly skin
• caked wool
• loss of shine in wool
• bad smell at painful areas.

Causes of hot spots in dogs:

• flea allergy
• cuts or abrasions
• ear infection/anal gland infection
• foreign objects embedded in the skin (shards/thorns)
• food allergies
• caked wool
• insect bites
• A dog chewing or licking itself due to stress or boredom.

Hot spots in dogs are the result of a bacterial imbalance (Staphylococcus intermedius) on the skin. The imbalance is most often initially caused by scratches or some kind of irritation on the skin, which the animal often bites. Biting leads to the release of bacteria from the mouth and nose, which destroy hair follicles at the site of irritation. Moisture and heat on caked wool, plus hot temperature air and humidity, or open wounds, can further enhance bacterial growth. Bacterial growth forces immune system the body to react, resulting in more itching, heat, redness, inflammation and pain.

Diagnosing Hot Spots in Dogs

If you notice that your pet is exhibiting symptoms of hot spots,... Hot spots are very painful and can get worse in just a few hours.

The veterinarian will conduct a general physical examination. It is important to inform your veterinarian about the onset of symptoms and any unusual circumstances that may have caused the irritation to determine the underlying cause. The information can help a specialist identify possible allergens or causes of stress.

The affected areas will most likely be shaved and cleaned to determine the severity and extent of the disease. Shaving and brushing are also necessary to allow air to enter the wounds.

The veterinarian examines bacterial samples under a microscope to make a definitive diagnosis and test for other forms of pyoderma.

Treatment of hot spots

Cleansing

Damaged areas must be thoroughly cleaned, caked hair shaved and removed from the source of inflammation. Since this procedure can be quite painful, it is best to carry it out veterinary clinic may be required sedative. A topical antiseptic such as chlorhexidine may also be needed.

Treatment of bacterial infection

Topical and/or oral antibiotics are often prescribed. Treatment with antibiotics may be for a month or longer.

Treatment of the original cause

Some cases of hot spots are idiopathic, meaning the cause of the disease cannot be definitively determined. Most often these are allergies to fleas, pollen or food. Monthly flea treatment or hypoallergenic diets can help get rid of allergies. Regular grooming of the animal's fur prevents the fur from caking, which is common cause the appearance of skin irritation.

Biting and licking caused by anxiety can be reduced by redirecting the animal's attention to toys, physical exercise and games.

Medicines for pain and inflammation

• Antihistamines may be prescribed to reduce itching and irritation.
• Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs to reduce inflammation.
• Corticosteroids may also be used to relieve inflammation.
• Gentamicin or betamethasone (topical antibiotics) in aerosol form are often prescribed to be sprayed daily onto the affected areas of the skin.
• Dietary supplements, such as basic fatty acids, can be prescribed to animals prone to skin problems.

Recovery period

Whether further treatment is required depends on the severity of the skin lesion. Most cases are quickly cured if the original cause is treated and proper treatment is followed.

A postoperative collar (cone) is used to prevent biting or licking of inflammation.

Regular grooming can help prevent hot spots from developing.

Provide your pet proper nutrition, excluding foods that can cause allergic reactions. Grooming prevents the coat from caking. Regular flea treatment will also help avoid allergic reactions.

Maintain a stress-free environment at home. Eliminate loud noises, introduce toys, give your pet physical activity and play games with him.

Treatment may begin to show results in one to two weeks. The fur will begin to grow back in 3-4 weeks. If treatment fails, further testing may be required to determine the cause.

How to fight a dog.
The text is tough, but you need to know such things. to protect yourself, a child, another person.

How to fight a dog.
Well, first of all, you need to remember one important thing
A stray dog ​​is not a dog - it's a wolf.

Unlike cats, dogs are pack animals. And the hunt is subordinate to them strict rules. Cats (small or large) steal prey, silently get within throwing distance and jump, aiming for the head and neck area. Only lions living in prides allow themselves to partially use driven hunting methods. Having knocked the prey to the ground in a swift throw or jump, the predator finishes it off with a bite below the back of the head or strangles it by grabbing the throat. Among cats, only the cheetah chases prey, but it lacks stamina, and if the intended victim cannot be caught within a certain time, the pursuit stops.
Dogs, on the other hand, prefer to chase down game - to exhaust it with a long run, and their bites are directed mainly towards the extremities. Unlike cats, dogs do not have powerful claws that can dig into prey and hold it with a steel grip. The goal of hunting dogs is to knock down the prey and pounce on the whole pack and tear. The dog grabs the legs and with the weight of its body tries to knock down the prey, and as soon as the prey falls, it tears the throat and stomach.

So from here the main thing. The dog does not attack the throat; as a rule, the bite goes to the limbs. You can't run away from dogs. And you can't let the dog knock you to the ground. And if you do fall, then try to fall face down, covering your stomach and throat. A dog is not a cat - it cannot bite the back of the head.

Domestic dogs It does happen (albeit rarely) that domestic dogs go out of control. It is much easier to cope with such a dog. If the dog is a domestic dog, it perfectly understands intonation - if its tower has not yet been completely torn off, then the dog can be confused by a sharp, powerful command voice. Like “You can’t sit, I’ll kill you bastard!” To be on the safe side, stomp your foot. Do not pretend to kick, but rather stomp your feet. Because a dog (especially a detection dog) can perceive waving its arms and legs as a command to attack. As soon as the dog hesitates, go on the offensive - slowly approach it, stomping your feet and swearing loudly but calmly. Keep in mind that dogs can easily distinguish hysterical-panic notes in a voice. You can't fool them. As soon as the dog has run a decent distance away from you, quickly grab a stone or stick and throw it at the dog... as a rule, this is enough for it to run away from such an aggressive victim. But keep in mind that you cannot wave a stick at a dog at the very moment when it attacks - this is 100% a bite. A stick is acceptable when you have already gained the moral upper hand over the dog.

Never dare run away from a dog. No matter how scary it might be. You need to walk away from a dog that is ready to attack slowly (but at the same time loudly stomping your feet), backing or forward, without taking your eyes off it, without showing fear, and all the time swearing loudly without panic in your voice. You cannot make sudden movements, swing your legs and arms. If it’s very scary, it’s better to stand still and keep your eyes on the dog as you turn. In the case of domestic dogs (and they do not run in packs), this is justified. Stand still, swear, stomp your feet, make scary faces at the dog, bare your teeth... you will buy time until the owner arrives.

Stray dogs. These are wolves. With all the ensuing consequences. Moreover, stray dogs In 90% of cases they are a flock; alone they are rare. In addition, unlike wolves, they do not fear humans and know them weak points. The best and smartest thing is if you see a pack of stray dogs ahead and you can’t get around it, bend down and take a thick stick. Throw a few stones at the flock with curses - here attack is the best means of defense. And since dogs, unlike cats, do not hide their prey and are usually visible before they begin to see you. And a man walking with a club and speaking in a threatening tone and throwing stones is less tasty prey for them than timidly making his way past. In 95% of cases, they will try to get out of your way themselves. Well, at most they will swear in their own way at a respectful distance.

But this is all prevention. What to do if you are in trouble and are already being bitten.
The most banal and most primitive but effective thing is red ground pepper in the face. You can carry it in a paper bag; when attacked at point-blank range, throw it in the face, tearing the bag. It is even more effective to pour it into a syringe for infants. You know the little one about the size of a fist? As soon as the dog screams, kick it, throwing it away from you to a safe distance.

It is best to hit the dog in the most painful points: nose, groin, jaw. AND better with your foot than by hand. Because it keeps the dog away from your face. and the kick is always stronger. It is acceptable to use any handy things lying around in your pocket - the same bunch of keys in your nose, eyes, etc.
Just keep in mind that you have to HIT the dog! A strong crippling blow will quickly sober up the dog and force it to go away, a weak one will only irritate it. If you hit, then hit. And beat until the dog runs away from you with its tail between its legs. The thicker your clothes are, the more difficult it is for the dog to get to your body and cause serious injury, and you have some time to spare. If the dog grabs your hand, remember that you have two arms and two legs, and the dog has one mouth. Which is just occupied by your hand and you have a fucking advantage. At that moment when the dog is hanging on your hand, its head, eyes, ears, nose are not protected. And you can nail it with your fist, your fingers, whatever comes to hand. Hit the open stomach with your knee or other hand, but with the same keys you can also pierce the stomach and chest. Kick in the groin. Hit your eyes with the fingers of your free hand, there they are in front of you. You can hit with a tightly clenched fist the hand that is clinging to yours. upper jaw. In dogs it is very fragile and can break easily. A painful shock a broken nose and upper jaw is enough to sober up the most feisty dog. If you manage to catch the moment when the dog jumps on your hand - put your elbow - you will have a wonderful lever that prevents the jaws from closing, and if you also push it down the dog’s throat, then the dog’s jaws can be dislocated and the throat can be broken from the inside. if the dog grabs the hand and your hand is in the mouth - grab the tongue and force your hand down the dog's throat as hard as you can - you won't kill, but it's guaranteed to be crippled. Out of fear, you can even tear off your tongue.
The main thing is not to panic. Even a couple of serious bites is not a torn throat and torn pieces of meat, which will happen if you panic and give up. The main task when attacked by a dog is not to succumb to fear and emotions. This is the only way to hit not just anywhere, but where you should hit.

As I already said, the main task is to stay on your feet at any cost. Therefore, it would not be superfluous to lean with this very back against something - against a wall, a fence. pillar
If you fall on your back, grab the dog by the throat and choke it, pressing on the Adam's apple, press your knees to the stomach and hit the dog in the stomach with your knees. Remember that in most cases you are twice as powerful and heavier as the dog. If you rest your knees well on the dog, then by turning over and straightening your legs with a spring, you can crush it against yourself and nail it completely.

I understand that this is scary, but this is not a reason for capitulation. If you lie there and pretend to be dead, you will die. After all, you are bigger and heavier. Well then fight!!! A dog, especially alone, will sooner or later save from aggressive defense. But he will eat a weak-willed person and not choke!

What if they attack someone? In general, the most effective thing that can disperse even a huge flock in a split second is water.
IN large quantities. I remember a pit bull with a miscarriage ran into our entrance, but he was aggressive and no one could not enter or leave. Then I wanted to go out, but climbing through the window of the neighbor’s apartment (as other residents had been doing all morning) was somehow not comme il faut. A bucket of boiling water thrown onto the dog from the height of the second floor solved the problem within a second. He knocked down the door with his head and flew out into the street. Why didn’t anyone think of it before, I don’t know? By the way, boiling water is more effective than an ice shower if you are driving away a pack attacking another person. For a well-scalded dog and wet dog are different things. Just don’t pour the whole bucket on the one you’re actually protecting. But it’s better to scald dogs with boiling water in winter, when clothes will better protect the victim from a small but hot shower. It's still better to use in summer cold water and preferably under pressure (from a hose) or a large bucket.
A great thing for dispersing a pack, as I found out today, is a large snow shovel. It has a large working surface area and can serve as a shield for you and good remedy to stun a dog. You'll never be able to dodge this size of iron. It is equally good for acceleration to use objects of large area and impact, such as a stool, a bench, a large bucket lid, or a metal bowl for jam. If not every dog ​​is afraid of a stick in the hand, then a heavy tubet is simply an excellent means of mass destruction.
A whip - but you have to know how to use a whip, and it should be a whip and not a rope. A hard leather whip of sufficient length with a weight at the end.
Well, if you don’t have a whip, then we make a yo-yo (flail), take a rope, tie a stone or piece of iron and off we go. You just have to hit with such a thing with a quickdraw and you won’t hit yourself in the back of the head due to inertia.

24. Defense from dogs

You are walking down the street and suddenly a dog lunges at you. Is this possible? Unfortunately, it is very possible. In any city in the CIS, hundreds of people affected by dog teeth and claws. And how many don’t apply?!

In modern times, villagers and townspeople have bred a huge number of dogs. Times are difficult, people are very afraid for their lives, property, and rights. Therefore, whoever can arm himself with whatever he can. And the dog is all, from head to tail, a living weapon. Moreover, it is relatively inexpensive and no permit is required to purchase it. So other citizens walk everywhere under the protection of their wolfhounds. Even in public places. The latter, by the way, is prohibited in all civilized countries, but, as you know, we are not one of them.

Of course, a dog is always a friend to its owner or mistress. After all, there is only one owner. Other people are more enemies than friends for any dog. So each of you needs to know how to protect yourself from man’s four-legged friends.

Conventionally, all variants of dog aggression can be divided into three groups:

♦ when the owner deliberately sets his dog on you;

♦ when the dog seems (no matter whether it is justified or not) that you are threatening its owner, or encroaching on the territory it protects;

♦ when you are attacked by an ownerless dog on neutral ground. Most often this happens when your behavior somehow irritates the animal (for example, dogs often rush at running people, at people gesticulating animatedly, at drunk people, etc.).

In each of the three options, the dog may be either untrained or specially trained to attack a person. A trained animal is considered to be one that, first of all, instantly and accurately carries out the commands of its owner (“guide”). Secondly, trained dog knows how to attack armed people and defend against them (for example, eludes a knife, a noose, dodges a aimed barrel), knows how to knock a person down and hold him in supine position. However, a trained dog is less dangerous than an “uneducated” one, since its actions do not go beyond the limits of necessity. In addition, a chance encounter with such an animal is unlikely and it does not just attack.

Most often, we are threatened by poorly prepared (or completely unprepared) representatives of the Canis familiaris genus. There are two reasons for this: objective and subjective. The objective fact is that qualified training requires appropriate knowledge, a lot of time, patience, and money. Only a few individuals meet such conditions. Practice shows that well-trained dogs can be found, with rare exceptions, only on public service- in the police, internal and border troops, among rescuers. Some may object to this statement, bearing in mind the numerous canine centers working for on a commercial basis. But either outright charlatans or “would-be specialists” work there, whose professionalism is highly questionable. All their “training” is as fake as those “passports” that sellers at animal markets provide puppies with. Almost all competent dog breeders are associated with the Ministry of Internal Affairs, the KGB, the Ministry of Emergency Situations, and the army.

Subjective reason The lack of well-trained dogs “on the street” lies in the field of social psychology. How more people insecure, the more intimidated or embittered he is, the more he strives to secure superiority over others. The “blue” dream of such an individual is to get himself such a dog that everyone around him will shy away from it in horror. However, he cannot train the animal on his own (and does not want to), and there is nowhere to find real specialists. Therefore, the matter usually begins and ends with him buying, often for a lot of money, a dog with an impressive appearance. Her entire upbringing comes down to teaching two or three commands like “friends”, “fas!” and “give me your paw,” but the everyday attitude towards the animal is determined by the owner’s mood.

It is not surprising that a dog in the hands of such an idiot acquires very specific qualities: it becomes unbalanced, disobedient and aggressive. She easily gets out of control and even more easily falls into a frenzy, especially if she feels that they are afraid of her. You can be sure that she bites not only the one to whom her half-baked owner wants to prove something. She will angrily attack anyone who she doesn’t like in some way.

The ambitions of some citizens went so far that a stupid and very dangerous fashion arose to have notorious “fighting” dogs (that is, breeds specially bred for dog fighting in the ring). These include bull terriers, bullmastiffs, pit bull terriers, and Staffordshire dogs. Although these breeds are considered small, genetically they are killer breeds. They simply go crazy from the smell of blood, feel little pain, are capable of attacking for the most insignificant reasons (looked wrong, slightly raised their voice, made a sudden movement) and are completely incapable of retreating. Often they attack simply because they sense a person's fear of them. Fighting dogs rush to attack silently, immediately starting to tear the body. Gnawing a hand or biting a throat is not a big deal for these little animals. What is especially sad is that they continue to attack even a person lying motionless...

It also happens that some scoundrels specifically go out into the streets to hunt people with dogs. The “feats” they perform are later described in police reports as malicious hooliganism, robbery, rape, and infliction of bodily harm of varying degrees of severity.

According to their physique (constitution), dogs are divided into three main types: heavy (for example, Great Danes, Rottweilers, St. Bernards, black terriers), medium (German and East European shepherds, huskies, Dobermans, Giant Schnauzers), light (Airedale terriers, boxers, pit bull terriers). Body type is significant in that depending on it, dogs attack differently and have more or less strength. So, heavy dogs usually very strong, often much stronger than the people they attack.

The most common are two types of dog attacks. First- “frontal” attack, when the dog and the person are, so to speak, face to face (or muzzle to muzzle). In this case, dogs of all three types behave the same. Dodging the defender's blows, they try to get in from the side and slightly behind him. When such an approach is successful, the dog tries to bite the hand, leg, or the object with which the person is defending himself.

Second option- attack from behind on a fleeing person. There are differences here. A heavy dog, having overtaken a running person, grabs his legs or torso with his teeth and throws him to the ground like a bear. A medium-type dog does not knock a person down, but knocks him down. To do this, approaching the runner almost closely, she jumps on him and hits him with her whole body (with all her paws) in the lower back. Or headbutts him under the knees. Light dogs are distinguished by great agility and jumping ability. They easily jump onto a person’s back and, latching onto his shoulder or neck with their teeth, hang on him.

Both during a “frontal” attack and when attacking from behind, any dog ​​immediately uses its teeth with all its might. This is done in order to incapacitate the enemy as quickly as possible (within 10-15 seconds), force him to stop all resistance (and in the event of an attack fighting dog- bite to death without much hindrance). It is bites that people are most afraid of. In fact, a bite can be “held” exactly like a blow. Of course, not every one of them is harmless and is always painful, but the pain can and should be endured, and as for the bites themselves, they must be turned into relatively safe ones.

There are three stages in any bite: grip, squeeze and spank. The squeeze follows immediately after the grip. Its strength depends on the depth of the grip, the size of the captured object (body part) and the strength of the jaws. The beating begins half a second to a second after the grip. This is the most dangerous action dogs, since it is during beating that muscles and ligaments are injured. Therefore, it is better not to give her the opportunity to torment your body. To this end, provoke the dog to bite two fists or two forearms, pushing them deep inside the mouth at the moment of the bite. The deeper the grip and the thicker the grasped object, the weaker the compression and the more like a dog begins to spit out what she grabbed with her teeth. To prevent her from doing this, point your fists down and towards the dog's neck. This will allow you to kick her for a few seconds without putting yourself at too much risk. Of course, it’s even better if you manage to stuff it into the dog’s mouth without own hands, but a knitted cap, a piece of stick, a glove, a medium-sized stone, a lump of earth...

When attacking a fallen opponent, the dog receives certain advantages. The main thing among them is that she has access to any part human body. Meanwhile, most people feel very insecure in a lying position, some simply panic. In addition, at the moment of falling and hitting the ground, a person loses orientation in the surrounding space for some time. If you really had to fall, under no circumstances should you allow the dog to grab you with its teeth at any of your vulnerable spots. These are the throat, neck, face, genitals, wrists, inner sides of the elbows and knee joints- all those places where there is large vessels. In particular, you should not stand on your feet while resting your hands on the ground. Your hands are full and you become completely defenseless. Learn to jump up without using your hands, while remaining ready to repel an animal's attack from any direction. You must also be able to fight a four-legged enemy on the ground.

Let's now consider general rules behavior in cases of attack by dogs of any type and any degree of training.

♦ First of all, train yourself not to be afraid of even the most terrible-looking dogs, their bared mouths, running saliva, and angry growls. For this, a simple but very effective technique has been invented: you need to perceive the dog not as an animal, but as a small person with sharp teeth. If you can look at it from this angle, you will immediately see that the combat capabilities of any dog ​​are much less than those of a human.

♦ Get used to the idea in advance that, most likely, she will bite you with her teeth several times. Be determined to endure the pain, no matter how severe it may be. Your goal is not to completely avoid being bitten, it is more important to prevent any serious injuries from them. Therefore it is necessary that painful sensations didn't cloud your mind. Clarity, logic, and quick thinking are the keys to success in all life situations, especially in extreme ones.

♦ Never try to run away from a dog, never turn your back on it. Always keep it in front of you, do not allow it to come from the side and, especially, break through behind your back. If there is some large object nearby that allows you to protect the rear (wall, fence, tree, car), slowly retreat with your back to it, without making sudden movements and without losing sight of the dog.

♦ Untrained dogs feel insecure if they lose sight of their owner, and even when they move away from a protected area. Therefore, it makes sense, if there are suitable conditions, to retreat in such a way (around the corner of the house, into the entrance, behind dense bushes) so that the dog finds itself in a different environment than in initial phase collisions. Having lost confidence, she (like a person) becomes less aggressive and easily takes flight.

♦ Dogs do not like to be shouted at, have something thrown at them, or make sharp lunges towards them when the posture of the person they are attacking suddenly changes. These features dog psychology must be used for your own purposes. So, to protect yourself from a dog running towards you, you can fall on all fours and growl at it, even bark (Fig. 345, a). Or drop to your knees, put your hands out in front of you and scream angrily. In either case, the dog will stop or pull back, and you will get a few seconds of respite.

♦ When scaring a dog away by shouting, remember that it is best to shout at it like an animal, that is, in a low voice, drawn-out, threatening. Or abruptly and loudly, if an animal roar does not work. But in both cases, the strength of the scream should increase towards the end and it should be supported by a demonstration of your aggressiveness (threatening gestures, throwing objects, attacking).

♦ Use any objects at hand to protect yourself from the dog: from stones and earth to knives and shovels. Depending on the situation and what you have, these objects can be used in the following ways: a) using them to keep the dog at a distance (for example, by holding a stick, umbrella, bag, jacket in front of you, or throwing stones, clods of earth at the animal, bottles, cans and other things); b) stick this object into the animal’s mouth (say, the same stick or your hand wrapped in a thick scarf, towel, jacket); c) beat, stab or cut a dog (with a knife, stick, bottle, piece of glass, belt with buckle, shovel - whatever) (Fig. 344).

♦ On a dog’s body, like a human’s, there are several places of increased vulnerability (Fig. 343). The weakest among them is the tip of the nose. A strong blow to this place with a stick, fist, bottle or anything else can even kill large dog. In addition, the bridge of the nose, the transition point from the muzzle to the forehead, the base of the skull, the middle of the back, the solar plexus, and the stomach are vulnerable in dogs. The traumatic effect at these points forces the animal to abandon aggressive actions.

At the same time, gouging out eyes, breaking ears, paws, tail, ribs, blows on the sides, although they cause pain, do not always force him to retreat. This is especially true for trained dogs of heavy and medium type, and dogs of fighting breeds.

Rice. 343. Vulnerable spots of a dog:
1 - tip of the nose; 2 - bridge of the nose, 3 - transition from the muzzle to the forehead; 4 - base of the skull; 5 - middle of the back; 6 - ischial tuberosity; 7 - hock joint; 8 - belly; 9 - solar plexus; 10 - wrist

♦ It is quite difficult to defend yourself from a person holding a dog on a short leash. Moreover, he often distracts attention from himself with his beast (for example, to use a weapon). In such cases, it is necessary by any means (insults, imitation of flight, throwing small objects) to force the owner to let the dog go. A dog released from a leash immediately rushes at the enemy, so it is important to catch the moment of the beginning of the attack (jump) and meet the tailed one with a powerful kick to the chest or to the exposed stomach. The dog flew off, whined - hurry up to him and kick him a couple more times in the gut, or with something heavy in the face, nose, or back of the head.

♦ The dog’s gaze is always directed to the place where it wants to grab its teeth, so it is not so difficult to dodge in time and knock it down, including at the moment of jumping. The pushes that knock the dog off its original trajectory must be not only strong, but also fast, otherwise a bite on the pushing leg or arm cannot be avoided. These pushes themselves should be carried out in the area of ​​the shoulder blade, as well as from the side of the neck or chest.

♦ You should never provoke a dog’s attack yourself: shout at it or the owner, wave your arms, approach unnoticed from behind and unexpectedly start talking to its owner (especially in dark time days). You can’t pet other people’s dogs, you can’t even reach out to them, you can’t command them. It is dangerous to even raise your voice at the owner: the dog does not understand the meaning of the words, but perfectly senses the intonation of the voice. Extra caution must be observed when meeting dogs wearing muzzles or wearing short leashes- no dog lover will curb his pet just like that.

♦ Now a few words about the position of the defender. Your knees should be bent and brought towards the center. This position increases stability, improves protection of the core (especially the groin) and makes it easier to avoid the dog jumping on you. The forearms of the hands should not be held horizontally, but vertically, then it is more difficult to grab them with the teeth (the dog makes a jumping grip in the forward-down direction). It is also advisable to wrap the left forearm (left-handed right) with clothing so that the dog cannot bite through the thick wrapping (Fig. 344-346).

Rice. 344. Using clothing to protect yourself from dogs

Rice. 345. Defense poses

Rice. 346. Weapon camouflage

Try to keep any hand movements in a circular motion. An untrained dog rarely manages to grab a hand that is making rapid rotations in a circle, and in addition, it is easier to deceive him during such rotations. After 10-15 seconds of unsuccessful attempts to bite the hand, the dog most often stops attacking altogether. Of course, a certain amount of practice in deceptive movements is required. You can master them by playing stick games with some familiar dog: you showed him the stick, and when he jumped, you removed your hand - and so on until you learn.

♦ It’s even easier to provide the dog with objects that it can firmly grasp: an empty sleeve, a leather glove, a knitted cap, a sports bag, a raincoat. At the same time, it is important not to let go of this object from your hands, to pull it towards you with force, so that the dog does not release it from its mouth and switch to you. While she's busy bashing whatever you gave her, apply a strong blows foot (or something heavy, or at worst a fist) on the one closest to you vulnerable spot.

♦ When exposing your dog’s forearm wrapped in clothing, correctly assess the size and strength of its jaws. If the dog is a heavy breed with large jaws, you should not allow it to bite directly on the hand. Wrap your forearm loosely, and when you grab, pull it out so that the dog only bites the clothing. And pull these clothes towards you, don’t let them go. If the jaws are not very strong, then on the contrary, wrap your hand tightly, this will protect it from damage to the skin (when dealing with small and medium breeds of dogs).

♦ Against a dog it is easier and more effective than all other types of techniques to use punches, kicks, and various objects. But there are also situations (especially when lying on the ground) when it is difficult to hit with full force, you have to grab and strangle the dog, break its limbs, neck, ears, gouge out its eyes, tear out its tongue. Some options for action in such cases are shown here in the figures (Fig. 347-348). I will only note that if you are uncomfortable hitting an animal, it is advisable to grab it well. Best places for fixing grips these are the ears (both ears at once), the throat (in front with two hands, behind with the elbow bend), under the jaw near the cheekbones, behind the withers and the middle of the back (for canine lung and medium types) followed by lifting off the ground.

Rice. 347. The most effective methods of protection against dogs are kicks, blunt and sharp objects.
Rice. 348. Painful and choking techniques are used relatively rarely against dogs.

♦ If you manage to achieve a reliable locking grip, then the dog becomes practically helpless, and you get the opportunity to completely incapacitate it: strangle it, beat it with blows to the ground or against foreign objects, break bones and joints, throw it away and at the same time grab something sharp or heavy that you couldn't reach before. There is a very effective technique against short animals, which, however, requires some preparation. It consists of bending the dog to the ground, jumping up and kneeling on its neck and back. Then one of two things is possible: you either break her spine with this blow, or you lean your whole body on top and choke her with your elbow.

♦ The most prudent people can constantly carry with them a plastic container (for example, for vitamins, with a diameter of 3 cm and a height of 5-9 cm) with the so-called “cayenne mixture”. This weapon was widely used by SMERSH units during the war. The composition is as follows: 50% shag (or finely ground tobacco from the cheapest types of cigarettes), 50% ground pepper (preferably black). If you sprinkle this mixture in the face of any dog, regardless of its size (and twice to be sure), then it will forget about you for a long time. By the way, this same remedy works great on people. So practice using it at your leisure. It is best to carry “cayenne mixture” in your breast pocket, and never in your trouser pocket.

♦ And one last thing. After the fight with the dog is over, carefully examine yourself. If you have teeth marks on your body, it is best to consult a doctor immediately. If this is not possible, then wash the wounds with your own urine using a clean handkerchief, and at home, disinfect the damaged areas with a solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) or furatsilin and treat the edges of the wounds with strong cologne.

Of course, the recommendations given here are only useful when protecting against untrained or poorly trained dogs. To fight determined professional dogs, special training and “real” weapons are needed. But, as I said earlier, your most likely four-legged opponent is precisely an ill-mannered animal with an unstable psyche. So the chances of success in a fight with him are high. The main thing, as in all other cases of life, is not to lose composure.

“Hot spots” in dogs

The dog has“hot spots”– areas of the skin that are most sensitive to overheating.

“Hot spots,” also known as acute moist dermatitis, pyotraumatic dermatitis, moist eczema or “summer sores,” are swollen, red, moist, and slowly oozing sores on the surface of the skin, often caused by dogs licking or chewing. They can appear and spread very quickly, and some can remain for many months. Often the fur around the area being licked has a pinkish tint caused by saliva. Sometimes the hot spot may have an unpleasant odor. Hair loss usually occurs in this area, but sometimes the wound may be hidden in fur, and the dog's relentless licking or chewing is the only warning.

What causes hot spots?

The immediate cause of the “hot spot” is bacterial infection skin. The inflammation is itchy and painful for the dog, so he licks or chews the area for relief... and further irritates the wound. Saliva is filled with bacteria and is very good balm for wounds As the dog becomes more frantic in an attempt to relieve the irritation, he may become more aggressive in his chewing. Some dogs may bite themselves to the point of self-harm. The most common hot spot areas are those that can be reached with the mouth - the flank, legs and paws, and rump - but itchy dogs will get sores anywhere they can scratch. A “hot spot” is just as painful as it is itchy. Some dogs may become protective of their wound and bite or growl to keep you away from it. These dogs may need to be sedated for treatment and your veterinarian will prescribe a pain reliever.
Determining the underlying cause of a hot spot can be difficult, but is especially important with multiple, chronic, or recurrent wounds. An accidental incident may be caused by a simple irritant such as a thistle or an insect bite. Most hot spots appear during the summer months during warm, humid weather. As is known, some breeds such as Labrador And golden retriever, have a predisposition to them. In general, dogs with thick or long coats are at risk. Dogs prone to ear infections and anal sinus infections are also more susceptible to “hot spots.”

Care

Mats in the coat or loose undercoat can prevent the skin from properly airing and drying and cause hot spots. Frequent cleaning(especially before a bath) and short hair for the summer are good preventive measures. Excessive bathing can further irritate the skin, but for dogs with sensitive skin Shampoos with aloe and oatmeal are available. Dogs with very thick coats may need to be scrubbed or blow-dried after swimming or bathing.

Feeding
Many owners find that changes in feeding can be beneficial for a dog with hot spots, regardless of whether food allergies have been diagnosed. Some industrial feed designed specifically for dogs with sensitive skin. They are often fish based (eg salmon like main source squirrel). Supplements are also available, usually containing omega fatty acids.

Allergies

Although inhalant or food allergies are often blamed for hot spots, the most commonly diagnosed allergy in dogs is lice allergic dermatitis(VAD). This hypersensitive reaction to flea bites can suddenly appear in a dog that has never reacted to it before. The owner may not even know that the dog has fleas, but only one is enough to provoke a “hot spot”! Fleas are easily treated and can be easily prevented with an urgent visit to the veterinarian.
Other allergies may be more difficult to identify. Your veterinarian can test for hypersensitivity, but trial and error is most often used. Food allergies often "diagnosed" with changes in feeding - many different hypoallergenic diets are available.

Dermatitis that is caused by an allergen environment, also called "atopy". The allergen may be seasonal (as with ragweed allergies in humans), geographic (such as specific to a particular park or city), or something commonly found around the home (dust or mold). Air purifiers and frequent vacuuming - good way keep allergens out of the house and away from people and pets. Your veterinarian can recommend a dose of over-the-counter antihistamines (such as Benadryl) that is safe for your dog. Other anti-inflammatory medications, such as corticosteroids, may also be prescribed by your veterinarian.

Other medical reasons

Behavior

Behavioral causes of hot spots are common, but can be the most difficult to eliminate. Some dogs will groom excessively when they are stressed or bored. Often a stressed dog will stop licking when the tension goes away, but a dog who licks compulsively can be very difficult to discourage. In these cases, it is important to subtly change behavior without inadvertently increasing attention. Substituting a toy or other activity can provide distraction and a positive outcome for stressed or hyperactive dogs. A busy or tired dog won't have to find ways to entertain itself!

What is a licking granuloma?
Sometimes, a thickened area of ​​fresh scar tissue can cause a “hot spot” to appear. It is rough and will bleed easily. This is called a licking granuloma, and it usually occurs when the inflammation is chronic. The infection may spread to the deeper layers of the skin and require more intensive treatment. Your veterinarian may even recommend surgical removal granulomas.

How to treat “hot spots”?

The wound itself must be kept clean and undisturbed so that it can heal. Typically, the area is clipped to remove fur (shaving can cause further irritation) and washed with mild soap or antiseptic. The hot spot may need to be gently rubbed several times a day to remove the scab. If inflammation is severe, your veterinarian may prescribe systemic antibiotics or anti-inflammatory medications. Can be used local medicines, but care must be taken that the cream or ointment does not get directly into the dog’s mouth! In some cases, they can be poisonous if swallowed. In other cases, improper use of ointment may perpetuate existing infection and prevent healthy ventilation of the wound, slowing down the healing process instead of helping it.

An Elizabethan collar (the dreaded head cone!) can be used in the short term to prevent the dog from accessing the wound, and socks can help reduce scratching. Stubborn dogs can be very creative when it comes to bandage removal, and a bad-tasting substance (such as hot sauce or bitter spray) may be applied over the bandages to discourage the dog from tearing them off.

In most cases, identifying and treating the root cause of “hot spots”—allergies, illnesses, behaviors—is more than a guarantee of success. Often small “hot spots” will heal on their own or with minor intervention. Some owners believe that cold compress(such as cold tea bags) may provide relief to the dog until the wound heals naturally. In a few weeks the fur will grow back.

Dog, hot spot, wound, illness