There are many more of these living creatures than there are people on earth! There are as many as two rats per person. This is not surprising, because they are able to survive in the most terrible and harsh conditions, and the ability to reproduce is simply amazing. Rats can be wild, laboratory, or domestic. It’s the latter, the decorative ones, that we’ll talk about. So, MirSovetov will give you some recommendations on choosing and caring for inquisitive pet rats.

Choosing a rat

The selection of these animals in our pet stores is not very large. Mostly they sell here decorative rats with smooth white or gray fur, some with spots on the head, tummy or back. This is the so-called “standard”.
But very zealous hunters of everything unusual can find themselves a more exotic pet. There are specimens with wavy and even curly hair, their mustaches are shorter than standard ones and curled. These are called “Rexes”.
If you get a rat without a tail, this does not mean that a rat relative bit it off in a fit of anger. It’s just that breeders bred a tailless type - the Manx.
And it turns out that not only underwear, but also the breed can be satin. The difference between satin rats is their thin, long and shiny fur.
Remember the cartoon about Dumbo the elephant with the unusual big ears? So the breed was named in his honor. Dumbo rats have round, low-set ears. You won’t confuse these little rats with anyone else.
Well, who else I would like to talk about is the sphinxes. They have a small fluff mainly above the eyes and in groin area, and everything else is devoid of any “cover.” Simply put, it’s a hairless rat.
The choice is yours. But we dare to assure you that an ordinary decorative rat is no worse than an exotic one!

Rat character

It sounds unpleasant and threatening to the ear. But in fact, domestic rats have a wonderful character. Let us list just some of the advantages of these curious and active animals:

1. Domestic rats are very clean and “wash themselves” as often as a cat. If you clean the cage on time, there will be no unpleasant odor will not come from the pet.
2. They respond to their names and are trainable. Yes, yes, they, like dogs, can follow the commands “sit”, “stand”, “lie down”, etc. This can be achieved with the help of treats. One important advice: Be patient before training!
3. Rats are practically omnivores. Read below about what you don’t need to feed them.
4. Watching them in a cage with a wheel, all kinds of rings and pipes is like being in a circus at an acrobat performance. Rats use their prehensile paws and tail very cleverly. If you let the animal walk around the apartment, you may later find it somewhere on the mezzanine. Rat curiosity can even reach your neighbors if there are loopholes that they can’t handle.
   

   Rats can laugh.

5. Pet rats, like hamsters, like to sleep during the day and run around at night. But you can train them to a routine that works for you. Play with them more in the evening so that at night they only have enough energy to sleep.
6. And the most important and important quality of domestic rats is that they are friendly and sociable. They do not tolerate loneliness well. They love to sit on hands, if they are accustomed to this from childhood, and also play and run with their own kind.

Rats also have disadvantages. The main thing is that they love to chew on everything. Wires, cardboard, paper, fabric - they do not understand the material of the thing they are chewing, they simply gnaw. Nature gave them this property. Well, if your rat has chewed very necessary wires, then only you are to blame for this. It was necessary to remove all valuable items from the pet’s field of vision in advance.

Another flaw is the short life expectancy. With excellent care, pet rats live no more than 3-4 years. Well, one more thing that is worth mentioning is that rats mark territory (but their urine does not smell as strong as a cat’s) and can bite (if it hurts you or threatens the offspring). If you decide to hand feed your pet through the bars of the cage, then she may mistake your finger for something edible. And all because rats have poor eyesight.

By the way, the color red for rats is black.

Male or female?

If you cannot devote at least two hours a day to your pet, then get two same-sex rats from the same litter. And the animals have more fun, and you don’t have to take time off from important things.
Females get along better with each other. They are smaller than males (300-400 g) and less active. Girls' fur is softer to the touch. You can put two boys in one cage (the weight of an adult male can reach 500 g). But if you take them at the same time and from the same litter, then fights cannot be avoided. Therefore, first get one rat, and after a short time add a brother to him. At that point, the “head” of the cage will be determined, so there should be no disagreement between the rats. By the way, a male can be recognized at the age of 3 weeks by his testicles. And one more thing: males mark territory more often than females. But boys will happily sit in your arms, or even on your legs, or they may even imagine themselves as a parrot and sit on their owner’s shoulder for a long time. But the girls are very curious and rush around the entire apartment, not fixating on the owner.

If rat offspring are a burden to you, then under no circumstances put rats of different sexes in the same cage; check the gender of the future pet in the store!

Pet house

A pet rat, like a hamster, will take up very little space in your home. All she needs to live is a comfortable metal cage, because she can chew through plastic rods and easily jump out of an aquarium.

Place the cage away from drafts and heat sources. At the bottom of the home you need to put sawdust, shavings or clean paper (no newspapers!). Provide the animal with a feeder and a drinker, preferably a nipple one.
Rats are not averse to swimming on a hot day; you can install a container in the cage for this purpose, and then watch this action. You can’t do without entertainment - a wheel, a ladder, metal pipes, rings, swings, etc. Rats simply adore all this.
We have already said that these are clean animals. Therefore, some owners even manage to train their pet to go to the toilet in the same place. Pet stores sell special trays for this purpose that can be placed in the cage.
Don't forget that rats need to sharpen their teeth. Provide them with strong branches or a chalk stone.
And finally, about the house itself, where your animal will rest and hide goodies. It can be purchased, or it can be a simple rag in which the rat can comfortably wrap himself. Craftsmen make hammocks for their pets from scrap materials.
If you have not one pet, but two, it is better to take a large two-story cage to accommodate all the rat’s “wealth”.
Once or twice a week, a good cleaning is needed: throw out half-eaten, hidden food and spoiled bedding, wash the feeder and drinking bowl. Don't overdo it, rats love to be surrounded by their scent.
Your pet, of course, loves his cage. But he prefers freedom. Therefore, let your rat out for a walk more often. Just watch him carefully. Readers of MirSovetov have already been warned about wires, but the animals are not averse to digging in the ground. May get hurt indoor plants, take care of their salvation in advance.

What's for breakfast?

Not only people, but also rats are concerned about this. You can feed them almost anything. Suitable food is from a specialty store, which contains oats, barley, corn, millet, etc. Rats like hard-boiled eggs, cottage cheese, dried or fresh fruits, vegetables in small quantities, meat without fat, fish and poultry in moderate doses, cheese , nuts. You can’t constantly give sunflower and pumpkin seeds, 20 pieces per week will be enough. Chicken bones will help the animal grind its teeth.

Rat teeth grow throughout their lives, which is why they gnaw on everything that gets in their way.

Carbonated drinks, rhubarb, blue cheese, chocolate and raw potatoes. You need to feed your pet no more than twice a day.

Water: drink and swim

A rat should always have water in its drinking bowl, and fresh water at that. Why in a drinking bowl and not in a saucer? Yes, because it will turn over your saucer or bathe in it, and then roll in sawdust - and voila, it’s no longer a rat, but some kind of pig.
As for intentional bathing, you can bathe, but only carefully. And not very often - no more than once every two months. Use special shampoos for this, not your Headen Shoulders. Be careful not to get foam into your eyes or ears. Bathing water should be warm. After the procedure, rinse the rat under the tap and wrap it in a towel.

Rat got sick

It may be like that. Tousled fur, loud breathing, constant sneezing, loss of appetite, drowsiness - all these are the first signs of an impending illness.
Have you noticed that the animal is constantly itching? Perhaps it's a matter of high protein foods. Eliminate peanuts and sunflower seeds from your diet. If the scabs do not go away, then the animal has mites. Zimecterin or Rotectin paste will help. A very small amount should be used per day of application.
Redness around the eyes and nose indicates an allergy to food or dust. A head tilted to the side indicates an ear infection or tumor. Rats tolerate bruises and paw injuries quite well. Just leave the animal alone and don't bother with trifles!
If your rat screams when you try to pick him up, something is hurting him. Urgently see a smart specialist! We hope that there is one in your city.

We hope that the article will help you look at pet rats with different eyes, in which there will be no hostility and disgust. After all, the beady eyes of these animals can leave few people indifferent. And their easy-going nature will allow you to make friends with them in a short time.

There is no need to bathe/wash rats(moreover, it is harmful for rats!), but despite this, often rat owners by washing the rat want to get rid of what they consider to be unaesthetic aspects such as an unpleasant odor emanating from the animal, browning of fur, porphyrin stains on the face or back, scratching , dandruff, matted or dirty fur.

Possible consequences of swimming:

• Rats are prone to respiratory infections, i.e. trite - they catch cold easily. And if a person’s cold most often goes away on its own, then in rats such respiratory diseases often end sadly: either chronic rhinitis, or pneumonia, and she fatal. Is your “bath procedure” worth your pet’s long-term antibiotic treatment?

• Water getting into rat ears leads to otitis media. Otitis is often asymptomatic and sometimes the owner notices that something is wrong when it is already too late. But even if otitis is noticeable and you react quickly enough, keep in mind that otitis in rats is very difficult to treat, long, difficult and causes great suffering to the animal.

• In addition, washing disrupts natural protection leather and wool. If the body for some reason cannot compensate for lost protection more selection sebum, the skin becomes dry and sensitive, it may begin to itch, and the hair will become thin and brittle, “husked.”

• Washing is always stressful for a rat, which leads to a weakening of the immune system and in itself “opens the door” to various diseases, infections, neuroses, etc.

If washing cannot be avoided, for example, a rat has gotten dirty in a harmful substance or you want to prepare your pet for an exhibition, then everything is quite simple:

• You will need: two towels, two bathtubs/basins and rodent shampoo or just mild baby shampoo.

• Have 2 towels at an accessible distance. Pour warm water into both baths, about 5 centimeters. Place a rat in one of them. Gently wet the rat's fur, avoiding getting any water on its face.

• Apply a small amount of shampoo to the coat and massage it gently into the coat. No need to create a lot of foam! Avoid getting foam in the animal's ears and eyes.

• Rinse the shampoo out of the fur by scooping up the water with your hand.

• Transfer the rat to another bath. Gently rinse any remaining shampoo from the coat. clean water, it should not remain on the fur/skin!

• Use a towel to wipe the surface of the rat's fur, this will help get rid of excess water. Wrap the rat in a second dry towel. Keep it wrapped up until it is at least partially dry. After this, it makes sense to let the rat out for a walk under a blanket or blanket - this will reduce the risk of catching a cold.

If the substance that gets on the rat’s fur is very dangerous and delay can cause harm to the animal, then simply turn on the warm water and rinse the rat’s fur directly under running water. Then dry the rat's fur and be sure to show your pet to the veterinarian!

Author VaKa

I thank Elena Snezhurova aka Malyavka for her help in writing the article.

Grooming

The rat takes care of its own fur. And if she lives in a group, which is desirable, then her “flockmates” also help her do this - this is called mutual grooming and serves to strengthen social ties between representatives of the same flock. If the rat is healthy and takes care of itself, then there is no need to help it with grooming; it can handle it on its own. Problems usually arise in weakened, old animals that find it difficult to reach, for example, the back) and in this case they will need your help.

Grooming your rat's fur with the least amount of stress and intervention consists of two parts:

• Combing the wool. Scratching improves blood circulation in the skin and removes dead particles from it. A new, unused one is best for this. toothbrush with soft bristles. It is most convenient to remove the long handle (since rats do not really like a strange tool with a long handle and they often attack a “full-sized” toothbrush) and scratch the rat, holding the head of the toothbrush large and index fingers(i.e., as if hiding it between the fingers). During the procedure, a calm tame rat can be placed on your lap, and independent rats can be scratched when they are sleeping or busy with a treat, then this procedure will not cause stress to them and will be calm.

• Cleaning the wool. There is no need to wash the rat and risk its health for this! It is enough to wet a cotton pad and gently wipe the animal’s fur with the damp pad. After the procedure, the rat must be wiped dry.

Author VaKa

Ear care

Rat ears do not require any special care, because... healthy and young rats can clean their ears quite well on their own. Therefore, you don’t need to clean your ears just like that with cotton swabs or other devices - they can easily injure the delicate skin, which can be very painful for the rat, and there is simply no point in using special ear care drops in this case.

Special care for the ears is required only when the rat has become old, weak and can no longer cope with this procedure on its own. Only then does it make sense to instill special drops, and after that neat Cleaning with cotton swabs, but not deep cleaning.

Please note the fact that “dirt” in the ears and/or an unpleasant odor are not signs of dirty ears, but a reason to go to the veterinarian and treat the rat, because, most likely, it has otitis media.

Author VaKa

Nail trimming

Trimming rats' claws - cosmetic procedure, which is usually not mandatory item in caring for a rat. However, there are a number of situations in which the rat will still need to perform it.

When does a rat need to have its nails trimmed?

• Most rats keep their claws in order by not allowing them to grow too long. However, it happens that sedentary, sick, old or simply too lazy animals outgrow their claws. normal size so much so that they bend, threatening to stick into the pad of a finger, and, in addition, cling to hammocks and other textile equipment of the cage and run. This can lead to the rat getting caught and tearing out a claw or dislocating a paw. Of course, this cannot be allowed.

• After operations, as well as in the presence of wounds or scratches, rats have their claws trimmed to prevent sharp claws from injuring the wound or unraveling the stitches.

• In addition, rats' claws are trimmed for aesthetic purposes - for example, before exhibitions, or so that sharp claws do not leave scratches on the arms and shoulders of their owners. You can also “demilitarize” the flock before adding newcomers, in order to deprive them of additional “weapons” in the event of a showdown, and to avoid scratched skin of the new one.

It is convenient to trim claws with the following tools:

• A special nail clipper for cats small size. According to rat breeders, this is the most convenient.

• Regular nail clippers or nail clippers. Nail scissors are inconvenient to use for this purpose, because... with their help, the claw is cut and not bitten off, which complicates the procedure - the scissors will simply slide off. The tools, of course, should be as sharp as possible so as not to delay the process and not split the claw.

The vast majority of rats will not like this idea. Therefore, if the pet does not want to sit quietly, breaks out and takes away its paws, it is more advisable to carry out the haircut together - the assistant will hold the rat while the owner deals with the overgrown claws. The haircut process itself is simple, but requires care and precision, because... The rat's claws and fingers are very small. You need to fix the paw with one hand, and with the other, cut off the very tip - the transparent part of the claw. You can’t cut further - the living part of the claw begins, with blood vessels and nerves. If you overdid it and started bleeding, keep hydrogen peroxide on hand. After trimming, if the cut is crooked, very sharp or split, the claw can be processed with a nail file.

Author Zatrian

Tail cleaning

The tail is a very important and undoubtedly wonderful part of every rat. However, for the most part, the rats themselves do not think about this, and therefore do not particularly monitor its appearance. Little rats have pink, clean tails, but the older the animal, the dirtier its tail tends to be. Some rats do clean their tails themselves, but this is the exception rather than the rule. A dirty tail does not cause any inconvenience to the rat, unlike its owner, hurting his sense of beauty. In addition, at a rat show, points are deducted from an animal for having a dirty tail.

In general, there are only two good reasons reasons why it is worth subjecting a rat to the procedure of cleaning its tail:

• Upcoming exhibition. The tail is cleaned to avoid underestimation.

• Hot weather. The main heat exchange in rats occurs through the tail. If it is completely covered with dirt, heat exchange will be difficult, which in some cases can even lead to overheating of the body.

How to do it right:

• To wash you will need a soft toothbrush, baby soap and warm (not hot) water.

• First, you need to “soak” the tail in soapy water. If the rat takes this calmly, you can simply immerse the tail in a container of water; if not, you should slowly soak it by wiping it with a soapy, wet cotton pad.

• After you have achieved the desired result in one way or another, you need to take a toothbrush and carefully, without strong pressure, brush your tail from the base to the tip, i.e. in the direction of scale growth, in no case against it! Do not rub the tail with force - you can damage and tear off the scales. When cleaning, do not hold the rat by the tip of its tail! Just a little effort is enough for the skin to simply peel off like a stocking from a leg. In this case, you will have to run to the veterinary clinic, and not to the exhibition.

• The cleaned tail is thoroughly rinsed with clean water and dried with a towel. After washing, you can lubricate it with baby cream, because... soap dries out the skin.

• If the rat's tail is very dirty, do not try to wash it at once - it won't work anyway, you will only injure it if you try too hard when cleaning. Just repeat the procedure every other day or two, and gradually the tail will wash off.

It is worth remembering that the degree of contamination of the tail is closely related to the conditions of detention. In a small, neglected cage that is rarely cleaned, rats' tails get dirty much faster.

Rats are smart, affectionate, clean animals, which is why people often and willingly take them into their homes as pet. These furry creatures respond to the care shown with love and devotion, and if the emotional connection with the owner is strong enough, they can even be trained. Like any animal for which we are responsible after taming it, rats also need proper care.

How to choose a rat?

Those who have experience in keeping pets will agree that the owner and his future pet find each other almost at first sight. When choosing a suitable rat from among the cubs, simply extend your hand into the cage. Curious animals will not be afraid; they will come close and make contact. The most active one will be yours - that means he liked you. When taking your little rat home, make sure that he is at least 6 months old - more than early age Taking a baby from its mother is not only inhumane, but also dangerous to the health of your future pet. After all, it is during the first six months that the baby learns all the necessary skills for life from his mother.

Finally, take a closer look at the behavior and appearance animal. He must be active, mobile, and not timid. Shy cubs can grow into aggressive, biting rats - this is worth remembering. The baby's fur should be clean, shiny, no stains, scratches on the coat or discharge from the eyes. The belly is soft, the skin on the tail is clean, the ears are pink. It is also recommended to hold the baby upside down for a second, holding him by the tail. The unhealthy one will spin around an axis, the healthy one will hang with his legs spread out.

Comfort for your pet

Before your future household member finds shelter in your home, you need to think in advance where and in what cage he will live, what you will feed him, and how to treat him if he suddenly gets sick. Therefore, it is advisable that you have an idea in advance about how to care for a rat. So, the conditions of detention. The cage can be of any size, naturally, not the smallest so that the rat has room to turn around. Since these animals have a habit of chewing through everything, the cage must be made of iron. Inside you need to build shelves and ladders, you can put a small piece of plastic pipe - rats love uneven terrain. Also, make him a house out of a box: cut out an entrance in it, lay old rags and paper inside, preferably not newspaper. The floor of the cage can also be covered with paper, or you can use wood shavings for this. You can’t lay very fine sawdust on a rat, it gets into his respiratory tract and causes irritation and can even cause the death of the animal.

What to feed?

Many people think that rats really love cheese and can eat it all day long. No matter how it is. Abuse of dairy products can lead to allergies and serious illness in your pet. But from all kinds of cereals and grains - wheat, barley, millet, sunflower seeds, etc. he will not suffer, on the contrary, all this is useful to him. He can't eat too much raw vegetables. Smoked delicacies, thickly seasoned meat, and all kinds of salty foods are also dangerous. You can have nuts other than peanuts. This peanut in the company of dairy products can cause severe allergies. The animal's skin begins to itch and itch, it will constantly scratch itself, as a result, pockets of inflammation and bleeding wounds will appear on the skin. If you do not treat the animal on time and do not put it on a diet, then the outcome can again be disastrous.

Rats, like hamsters, are usually given water in a special drinking bowl. Rats should not be overfed - they are prone to obesity. We must also remember that without food and water, these animals will not live long - only two days.

Despite their compactness, decorative rats will never become easy pets to live in a city apartment. However, the rat's intelligence and cleanliness more than compensate for the possible costs of its maintenance.

Why have a rat at home?

Such a question is unlikely to arise before a person for whom a rodent is the personification of intelligence, agility and charm. A decorative rat is rarely acquired by accident: as a rule, it is a conscious and firm decision. But even if the appearance of the animal was accompanied by a touch of spontaneity, its owner quickly becomes a fanatic of rats, endlessly moved by their mischief and cunning.

The only thing that seriously depresses rat owners is short life pupil, but, resigning themselves to this, they get a new rat every 2-3 years.

Types and breeds of decorative rats

These domestic rodents belong to the species "gray" and occasionally "black" rat, included (in turn) in the genus, numbering 137 species and 570 subspecies.

This is interesting! Biologists have found that gray rats run at a speed of 10 km/h and jump up almost 80 cm. But this is not the limit: an angry or panicked rat can jump 2 m in height.

The classification of decorative rats is quite bizarre due to the abundance of diverse parameters (color, type of coat, nuances of physique), which do not allow having a single standard. Sometimes rats are given dog/cat names such as rex, sphinx and husky.

TOP 7 popular varieties:

• standard– smooth-haired massive creatures weighing up to 0.5 kg. The tail (20 cm) is almost equal in length to the body (24 cm). They have wide, rounded, but moderately large ears;
• satin– characterized by a deep shine of the coat. The fur is pleasant to the touch, and the hairs are long, thin and smooth;
• dumbo– stand out with low-set and rounder ears on a rather sharp muzzle. The body shape (pear-shaped) is reminiscent of tailless rats, differing from them in having a longer tail and a shortened body;
• sphinx- an absolutely hairless variety, including the absence of a mustache. Infant pigmentation disappears with age, and the rodent's folded skin takes on a pure pink color;
• anurans- rats that are born without a tail. The first such individual appeared (as a result of an unplanned mutation) in 1983. The body resembles a pear;
• rex– these rats are endowed not only with thick curly hair, but also with short, dashingly curled mustaches. The fur (compared to standard ones) is stiffer and less shiny;
• downy– representatives of this species are covered with sparse translucent fur, devoid of guard hairs. But downy ones have curly short antennae.

The fur of decorative domestic rats has a variety of colors, sometimes with a combination of three shades. The color of the iris also does not tend to be uniform: eyes can be red, ruby, black or differently colored.

Lifespan of pet rats

It is estimated at 2-3 years. According to this indicator, domesticated animals are superior to their wild counterparts, who end their earthly journey at the age of one. Free rats die in the teeth of predators, at the hands of people, from hunger, cold and disease, while their tamed relatives eat and drink plenty and can be seen by veterinarians.

But also artificial, more comfortable conditions cannot be a panacea for diseases that affect all rats. Therefore, stories that, with good care, domestic rats cross the threshold of 5-7 years, should be classified as fables. It is possible that you will come across a particularly resistant and healthy specimen, but even it will not last more than three years.

This is interesting! Not long ago, researchers at the University of Chicago proved that rats are compassionate, and to a much greater extent than previously thought. In a series of experiments, rodents tried not only to open a cage with a comrade locked in it, but also shared the last piece of chocolate with him.

These animals need constant supervision. You can't lock a rat in a cage and go on a cruise for a week. When planning a vacation, you need to find a volunteer who will feed your treasure. A rodent cannot be kept in captivity all the time. He should walk a lot and regularly: just make sure that during walks he doesn’t try any utensils on his teeth.

With their legendary omnivory, domestic rats are quite selective in food, and they are also predisposed to some serious ailments, the treatment of which will cost you a pretty penny. When purchasing a rat at the request of a child, you must understand that you will take care of it yourself. And if you spare no effort and time, the animal will grow up tame and sociable.

Selecting and equipping a cage

The rat cage should be spacious, with dimensions of at least 60*40*60 cm for one animal. The interval between the rods is no more than 2 cm (less for children).

What is needed to set up a cage:

• nipple-type automatic drinker (with a metal spout);
• heavy hanging feeders (ceramic/metal);
• corner tray filled with leaf shavings or cat litter;
• a small shelter for the animal;
• mattress on the bottom (absorbs unpleasant odors);
• shelf, aka the second floor of the cage.

All interior elements can be bought in specialized stores or made with your own hands, spending a little time.

This is interesting! Domestic rats love to relax in hammocks, which often also become a place for showdowns and even storehouses where the tailed rats store their precious food supplies.

Care and hygiene

Decorative rats are clean, and in bath procedures don't need it. Washing is indicated if the pet:

For bathing you will need a basin, special shampoo(can be a cat's or a child's), a toothbrush with soft bristles (as a washcloth), a couple of towels. Bathe your rat in a bathroom where there is no draft and the air temperature is at least +20 degrees. Make sure that water does not flow into her eyes and ears.

Remember that when washing you remove the natural odors by which the rat is recognized by its relatives. This can lead to misunderstandings if you keep multiple rodents. Watch their reaction when you return your washed companion to them.

What to feed your pet rat: diet

For food to be healthy, the diet must contain fresh greens, vegetables/fruits, cereals and grains. Ready-made grain mixtures are also suitable, but keep in mind that tailed gourmets can feast on their individual components, scattering others around the cage. Don't feed your rat food from your table. Cold and hot food is prohibited, as well as:

• sweets, including chocolate;
• smoked meats and pickles;
• raw potatoes, artichokes and beans;
• Brussels sprouts/red cabbage;
• tofu and spinach;
• green bananas;
• alcoholic/carbonated drinks.

Rats can be poisoned by plants such as azalea, begonia, carnation, hydrangea, calla lily, crocus, potato/tomato leaves, lily of the valley, spurge, narcissus, mistletoe, nightshade, rhododendron, cyclamen, agave, amaryllis, dieffenbachia, geranium, hyacinth, horse chestnut, cherry/tobacco leaves, lupine, myrtle, oleander, ferns, ivy, yew and tulip.

In the off-season, you need to add vitamins and sprouted oat/wheat seeds to your food.

Rat health - diseases and prevention

The rodent body is susceptible to adverse environment(drafts, high humidity, cold) and reacts to poor nutrition. If your pet is not born with good health, it is possible that you will have to treat him for diseases such as:

To keep your rat happy and healthy, follow simple rules. Prevent pets from being injured while moving around the room and protect them from drafts. Clean your cage and apartment more often. Do not fill the tray with pine sawdust. Eliminate stressful situations, capable of weakening protective forces body. Remember that any of the following can cause your pet to feel unwell. pungent odor(including tobacco).

Reproduction of decorative rats

This activity can only be done by an experienced rat breeder: uncontrolled breeding of rats is completely unacceptable. The female is ready for fertilization at 6-8 months. The first pregnancy after the age of one year is fraught with complications. Estrus occurs once every 4-10 days, and mating takes seconds. Gestation of cubs (depending on their number) lasts 21-25 days.

At this time, the female should drink a lot and eat properly: liver, tomatoes, bell pepper, onions, grapes, garlic and raisins. As a rule, a day before giving birth, the rat stops eating, and before that it sets up a “nursery”. If the cage is multi-tiered, a nest is built at the bottom so that the babies do not fall, lining it with toilet paper and napkins.

Childbirth lasts 1-3 hours: the mother usually eats the lethargic rat pups, so they immediately begin to squeak and move. The lactating female is provided with a rich diet, including lactic acid products and calcium gluconate. While the little rats suck mother's milk, they are not picked up. A rat with a foreign scent may eat its mother.

This is interesting! It only takes 50 milliseconds for a rat to determine the location of the source of the scent that reaches it.

It is human nature to take care of four-legged or winged pets; communication with them only brings positive emotions, fosters kindness and a sense of responsibility in children, and gives lonely people precious mutual understanding and unselfish, strong friendship. The smarter the animal, the deeper and brighter the sincere affection and selfless love of the animal for its owner is manifested.

The decorative rat is considered one of the smartest and most affectionate pets. Before buying a furry animal, it is advisable to learn everything about decorative rats, understand the physiology and maintenance of a sociable rodent. Care pet rat is minimal, and the level of intelligence and affection for humans is not inferior to common dogs and cats.

Smart rodents pick out favorites among family members, make funny faces and wiggle their little ears, some individuals even. In their little hearts lives a huge reverent love for their owners, before emotional manifestation which even the most unsentimental people cannot resist.

How did domestic rats appear?

The ancestors of cute, affectionate tame rats are considered to be ordinary wild gray rats, the reminder of which causes disgust and fear in the majority of the human population.

Wild rats appeared many millions of years ago in China and India, and in the 16th century, as maritime trade developed, the ubiquitous rodents entered Europe on merchant ships and, rapidly multiplying, filled all the cities.

In the 19th century in England, volunteers began capturing gray rodents to take part in fights against dogs. It was during this period that the breeding of white tame rats began; albinos were shown at exhibitions and circus performances, and kept at home as strange animals.

People began to conduct numerous experiments on the obtained specimens of laboratory rats. Some rodents escaped the fate of experimental animals and settled in the homes of scientists who fell in love with the animals for their insightful mind and boundless affection for humans. In private conditions, new species and breeds of ornamental rats were bred from laboratory specimens and wild rodents, which are now found among breeders and in rat breeding clubs.

Why you should have a rat as a pet

Decorative rat as pet – ideal option. Most people who are squeamish about wild rats, when meeting a cute tame rodent, change their attitude towards the smart animal, and the tricks that the furry rodent easily masters cause surprise and delight in children and adults.

Caring for a rat at home is quite simple; the animal must be provided with a comfortable cage with litter, water and simple food. Anyone who thinks of pet rats as dirty, infectious rodents is mistaken in their opinion. Decorative rats are very clean pets; in the apartment where the furry pet is kept, if its home is cleaned in a timely manner, there is no smell. Even in its cage, a rodent secretes one if a bowl of food gets there - before feeding, the rat always drags it with its teeth to a clean place.

But the most important advantage of this furry rodent is its high need for communication. Each decorative rat is a separate personality with its own character and habits; the animal quickly remembers a person’s voice and smells, responds to a nickname, and with simple training brings small objects.

A funny, cheerful little rat is ready to play for hours on end with children and adults, which causes fun and laughter in all family members, and older individuals love to stretch out near gentle human hands, closing their eyes with pleasure and stroking their back, ears and belly. The intelligent rodent subtly senses the human condition and is able to relieve stress from its beloved owner. Keeping rats at home gives their owners touching moments of confidential affection and selfless love from these little devoted friends.

Varieties of decorative rats

You can keep a rat of any breed at home, depending on the owner’s preferences. Each breed of decorative rats is interesting in its own way and deserves decent care and maintenance at home.

Standard

This is the most common variety, which became the ancestor of other breeds of domestic rats. Characteristic signs– dense elongated body, smooth short coat, wide ears and long tail, covered with sparse hair.

Dumbo

A cute large rodent with large protruding round ears, giving the rat's face a funny look. with huge funny ears.

Rex

One of the most popular varieties. Domestic, thanks to which the fluffy rodent looks like a children's plush toy.

Sphinx

With the exception of rare hairs on the head and limbs, the skin of rodents is folded and pale pink, which gives some defenselessness and tenderness to this species. This variety is great option for people who are allergic to animal fur.

Satin

Rats of this breed are popular in European countries; the fur of this variety is dense, long, shiny and satiny, adding a certain charm to pets.

Tailless

The characteristic breed feature is clear from the name of this variety; the rodents have a pear-shaped body without a tail, which does not prevent it from remaining a cute, sociable pet.

Physiological characteristics of the domestic rat

The average lifespan of furry rodents is about two years, but proper care and kept, domestic rats live up to 4 years. Even a schoolboy can take care of rats on his own younger age, for whom a smart rodent will definitely become his best friend.

In the wild, rats lead an active nocturnal lifestyle, sleeping during daytime before the next hunt. At home, smart rodents often adapt to the lifestyle of their owners and begin to stay awake and play more during the daytime.

Group and single keeping of decorative rats

You can keep tame rodents at home alone, in flocks or in pairs. For any type of housing, it must be remembered that rats are social animals and are not less than a person need constant communication. It is not advisable for an inexperienced rat breeder to have several individuals at once; caring for rats in a large flock includes not only feeding and cleaning the cage, but also periodically removing fighting individuals, treating injuries and diseases in a large number of animals.

Most often, pet stores offer to purchase a couple of rat pups of the same age, so that they do not get bored in the absence of their beloved owner. When young animals of different sexes are kept in one cage, numerous offspring will soon be born, or the female may die as a result of early mating.

In nature, rats live in same-sex packs; only healthy, mature individuals mate exclusively for reproduction. If the owner does not intend to breed tame rodents, you should not have a mixed-sex pair of decorative rats.

When purchasing a same-sex pair, caring for decorative rats is basically no different from keeping them alone, but you need to be prepared for fights between males. Keeping several same-sex rats is close to their natural existence; all individuals become attached to their owner and compete for his affection and attention. During the period of absence of human contact, animals communicate and play with each other; this lifestyle makes the pet happy and emotionally developed.

Keeping a fluffy rodent alone is also acceptable, but you need to care for a decorative rat, communicate and play with it more often. The animal should not be bored. In the absence of its blood friend, a domestic rat becomes firmly attached to its owner, the owner’s duty is to provide his pet with close, long-term communication, he needs to carry the rodent on his shoulder and in his bosom, play with it, walk it in the apartment and on the street. If the owner does not have that much time, it is better to have a same-sex pair of rat pups who will love the person and be happy friends with each other.

Cell selection

All a rat needs is accessories, tasty nutritious food and a loving owner. Cage for fluffy pet becomes a home in which he spends most of his life, so buying a home for little friend need to be treated with increased attention. A cage for a decorative rat must meet the following parameters.

Size

A tame rodent cannot be kept in a narrow, low cage; the animal needs space for the necessary movement inside the home. To keep one or two pets, it is advisable to purchase a wire cage with dimensions: 60x40x60 cm, that is, 60 cm in length and height and 40 cm in width. With such a volume, the animal can freely play below or climb up the bars. The distance between the rods should be no more than 1.2 cm.

bottom of the cage

It must be solid, the slatted floor provokes frequent injuries limbs in rodents.

Cage tray

It must be made of durable plastic with high sides to prevent the filler from spilling outside the rat house; wooden structures are undesirable due to their swelling from rat urine.

Design

It is advisable to purchase a collapsible cage with large doors, making it easier to clean, wash, feed and hang hammocks for animals. The cage should be equipped with shelves for pets to rest.

Coating

The rods of cages for rodents are coated with enamel, zinc or powder paint, there is no fundamental difference between them. It is necessary to pay attention to the absence of chips, paint delamination and rust.

Arrangement of a cage for a decorative rat

The home of a domestic rat should be comfortable and cozy for the furry pet and for feeding, smell absorption, play and rest of the animals. Must be purchased at the pet store at the same time as the cage.

Filler to absorb physiological odors

The most expensive, but most common option among rat breeders is. Wood fillers and sawdust are not recommended for use; these varieties can cause allergic reactions in pets. An inexpensive and popular filler option is white napkins or toilet paper that require frequent cleaning. The use of newspapers and magazines for these purposes is prohibited. Rodents can be poisoned by printing ink.

Food bowls

For dry food, there are hanging bowls that are securely attached to the bars of the cage; it is advisable to give treats and liquid food in stable ceramic bowls.

Drinking bowl

It is necessary to hang a nipple drinker in the cage, which is convenient and safe to use.

House

Rodents love it, on the bottom of which you can lay soft cloths. A plastic durable house can be installed at the bottom of the cage or suspended.

Hammock

A favorite place for resting and sleeping is one that is suspended from the ceiling of the cage or between floors. It doesn’t matter to your pet whether this accessory is bought in a store or made independently from warm, cozy fabrics. It is necessary to periodically change and wash hammocks.

Toilet

Domestic rats are very clean; the animal independently chooses the corner in the cage where it goes to the toilet. You can equip this place with a special tray with filler or a container with high sides.

Climbing accessories and toys

If the size of the cage allows, you can hang ropes, ladders, and edible accessories.

Feeding rats

Fluffy rodents are quite unpretentious in food, although each individual has its own tastes and favorite treats. from a very tender age to avoid the development of pathologies digestive system and obesity. A pet rat's diet should include the following foods:

Cereals

Dry crushed cereals or boiled porridges from buckwheat, corn, rice, barley and wheat are the basis of the diet.

Seeds and nuts

Flax, pumpkin and sunflower seeds, nuts, greens and sprouts of oats, wheat, millet as vitamin supplements.

Fermented milk products

kefir, yogurt, cottage cheese, fermented baked milk are sources of calcium and bacteria for the intestines of animals.

Protein and meat

Boiled eggs, meat, chicken, fish, liver, kidneys, heart are a source of protein.

Vegetables

Vegetables, dried fruits, berries - vitamins and fiber to stimulate intestinal motility.

Clean drinking water and treats

As a treat for furry pet you can use pieces of apple, carrot or watermelon, puffed rice or corn, strawberries and grapes.

Under no circumstances should you give your pets:

• chocolate;
• alcohol;
• shashlik;
• fried spicy meat;
• sweet;
• raw beans, cabbage, potatoes, spinach, green bananas.

How to play and train a decorative rat

One can talk endlessly and a lot about the subtle mind and high intelligence of domestic rats. This funny animal physically needs daily active communication with its owner and long walks. The peace-loving rodent readily makes contact and enjoys emotional communication with its beloved owner. It is useful to take the time to walk the animal with energetic ones, ensuring regular physical activity and the spiritual closeness of a person and a little friend.

Pet rats love to chase a candy wrapper on a string, wrestle with their owner's hands, climb into their owners' sleeves and bosoms, take things out of boxes, and squirm in an abandoned towel. Any game should bring pleasure to the pet and the person, accompanied by laughter, affectionate encouragement, kisses and strokes of the smart animal. The more often and closer the owner communicates with a smart rodent, the faster the pet gets used to it and begins to trust the person.

Decorative rats are very easy to make at home. With regular training and encouragement, you can teach your funny pet to fetch small objects, jump on various items, jumping over a hoop, crawling on a rope and hoop and other tricks. When training, the owner's patience and the animal's trust are very important. After each trick, it is necessary to encourage the capable rodent with treats and affectionate words; in no case should you scream or hit the animal.

Rat care

Caring for the pet of the whole family is absolutely not difficult; it is necessary to take care of the health of the rodent and the cleanliness of the rat’s home, timely feeding and daily filling of the drinking bowl. The owner-rat breeder needs to know several rules for the care and maintenance of pet rats:

• the pet's cage should be in a dry, warm place, direct contact should be avoided sun rays and drafts;
• Daily cage cleaning involves washing feeders and drinkers, removing food debris, and replacing used filler;
• twice a week it is necessary to disinfect the cage and tray using disinfectant solutions;
• if necessary, the furry pet is bathed in warm water using special shampoos;
• Periodically trim the rat's claws using nail scissors or clippers.

Reproduction of decorative rats

Reproduction of decorative rats at home is a very responsible and serious step. The owner must take care of the pregnant and lactating female, as well as her litter; the problem of distributing offspring also falls on the shoulders of the rodent owner. These efforts are more than repaid by communicating with touching and defenseless little rats.

For mating, it is necessary to select a pair of healthy, well-fed animals: it is advisable to mate a female for the first time at the age of 5-8 months; the age limit does not apply to males. Before mating, animals must be kept for a week vitamin diet to produce healthy and active rat offspring. The result successful mating is the onset of pregnancy in a female, which lasts 21-23 days.

A pregnant rat becomes calmer, selective in food, and in the third week the female’s body takes on a pear-shaped shape with a rounded, convex belly. Before giving birth, it is necessary to remove the male, remove all floors, stairs and toys from the cage, provide the pregnant rat with a nesting house and give pieces of napkins for arranging the nest.

Birthing in domestic rats occurs most often at night and lasts 2-3 hours; on average, 9-12 completely hairless, blind and deaf rat pups are born. It is necessary to feed a female that has given birth with highly nutritious food with an increased content of protein and calcium to produce required quantity milk. Newborns grow very quickly, on the 4th day the babies begin to hear, by the 12th day the little animals' eyes open, and from the 14th day they already communicate with people, play pranks cheerfully and run around the apartment in a mischievous flock.