Getting ready for the puppy's arrival! Everything you need to know. Memo to future Basenji owners

So - you are expecting a puppy. Very soon he will arrive - so wonderful, silky, smelling delicious, affectionate and cheerful!

So restless, biting, poking his nose everywhere, demanding attention, effort and time. You are ready to love him. But how to prepare for his arrival? What to do with a puppy so that it grows into the dog of your dreams? How to prepare for the arrival of a puppy?

How to prepare for the arrival of a puppy?

You will need:
— Bowl– metal or ceramic, volume approximately 250 ml. Sold in pet stores. Don’t buy a plastic one - the puppy will immediately chew it off. Remember that the puppy should have food in his bowl only during the time allotted for feeding; if he doesn’t eat it, we remove it. But water should be freely available at all times. Therefore, it may be more convenient for you to get two bowls at once - for food and for water.
— Bedding or basket. Choose the size immediately for an adult Basenji - the puppy grows rapidly. Now in pet stores there is a huge selection of places for dogs, you can choose the color of the main furniture. Even if you plan for the dog to sleep on the sofa or bed, still give the puppy a separate place. If only because he still doesn’t know how to keep clean and will easily pee on your sofa.
— Toys and chews. Basenjis prefer soft toys. Our leaders are pieces of natural fur. Also very good toys for dogs are made by Hartz (Hartz, sold in pet stores) and, oddly enough, Ikea. When purchasing, pay attention to the filler - it should be uniform, without balls. There should also be no small hard parts, such as eyes and nose, that the puppy can chew off and swallow.
Chews are your salvation. They will occupy the puppy's teeth and prevent him from turning them against your apartment. I recommend buying the simplest delicacies from veins (the cheapest, our production). Of course, Tit-Bit and others like it are much tastier, but they have 2 drawbacks. They are eaten very quickly, filling the puppy’s stomach not the most healthy food. And they are quite expensive, and after such tasty chews the puppy will refuse to chew simple bones from veins And the puppy should have chews all the time.
Many puppies enjoy chewing on sticks. If you don’t mind trash, you can go this route. Choose sticks without splinters, smooth, and made from fresh wood. And I wouldn’t leave the puppy alone with a stick - he might eat some wood chips, this is very dangerous.
— Food and water. I will write separately how and what to feed the puppy. Pay attention to the water your dog will drink. Don't let her drink anything you wouldn't drink yourself. Let it be good filtered or bottled water, otherwise in a year your dog’s beautiful white teeth will be covered with a nasty coating, stomach problems will begin, and the smell from the mouth will knock you off your feet.

That's all you need at first. Buy the rest along the way.

You also need to prepare the apartment.
— Remove or de-energize all electrical wires that the puppy can reach (and he can climb almost anywhere!). Train yourself to unplug plugs from sockets when you are not using them.
— If you do not plan to let your dog into any premises, make them inaccessible to the puppy from the first day.
— It’s in the Basenji’s blood to climb higher. Don't even expect the dog to be satisfied with the floor! And immediately decide which sofas, chairs, and beds she can climb onto and which ones she cannot. To a little puppy You won't explain how one sofa is different from another, so just make it so that he can't get into it. And, frankly, I would limit the puppy's access to upholstered furniture until he grows up and understands that he cannot pee on the chair.
Place pillows near those sofas and armchairs where the dog will be allowed to climb. Puppy up to 4 months old. he could get injured by jumping off the sofa - this is still too high for him. But the puppies instantly figure out where it’s more convenient to get down, and one day they learn to use a ladder made of pillows.
Move chairs, stools and other low furniture away from window sills. The puppy can easily climb from the furniture onto the windowsill - slippery, cold and high. If your window sill is low and wide, simply created for a dog, put tourist foam on it, it will not allow the cold to pass through and the dog will not catch a cold.
— Get used to the idea that everything that doesn’t lie well will become a dog’s toy. These could equally well be old socks and new boots. And an antique chair can be chewed just as hard as a simple stool! Train yourself to put your shoes away.
— Train yourself not to leave food on the table. You don't want your dog to steal your breakfast, do you? And the most the right way to wean her from this is not to accustom her. Those. – do not create a precedent! For the same reason, remove the trash can from public access. If you stay in this mode for a year, you will make your life much easier later.

Look around your home. Well, are you ready?

- “Will the puppy chew anything in my house?”

- “Will the puppy chew anything in my house?”
If this question bothers you, it means you have never had a puppy, or you had one so long ago that you have already forgotten everything :). Because – don’t worry, I give an absolute, 100% guarantee that – yes! Will chew it up!! And no one can predict what exactly he will chew off - a door frame or a computer keyboard, or dig a nest in a leather sofa. Take responsibility for the fact that anything left unattended within your puppy's reach may get damaged.
Don't rely on anti-gnash products - in most cases it's a waste of money. If a puppy suddenly likes to chew on a door frame or something else that cannot be removed, the smell of menthol has a good deterrent effect. Another option is to smear the item with diluted mustard or a mixture of “Fairy” + red pepper (this mixture is then easily washed off).
Toys and chews will save you. It is also wise to designate a room where the puppy will stay in your absence. There should be his place, water, toys - and there should be no valuable things that can be chewed.

How to feed a puppy and an adult Basenji?

General rule– The dog must be fed so that it is neither excessively thin nor overweight. The ribs should be palpable without problems, but not protruding. Obesity is fatty degeneration liver, high stress on the heart and minus years of life for your dog.
Food should not be freely available all the time - only during feeding. Anything the dog didn’t eat, you remove. The amount of food should be such that the puppy quickly eats the offered portion, licks the bowl and moves away from it. If the puppy licks the bowl for a long time and carefully and does not leave it, it means that he is not full.

If you choose dry food, choose good food. Those called “Premium class” and “Super-premium class”. These are Pro Pak, Eukanuba, Royal Canin, Hills, Akana... Everything is simple with them - the dog will eat dry food and drink water, and you will be spared the need to cook something, think through the diet, etc. I made a choice in favor natural food, but I don’t impose it on anyone. However, if you also prefer to feed your dog “natural”, here are recommendations on how to do it correctly.
The dog should receive in food:
— Meat, raw. In an adult dog it makes up from a third to half of the diet.
Beef, veal. Moreover, both muscle meat and offal. If you give liver and heart, it is better to lightly boil them, since they contain a lot of blood, this can cause diarrhea. The kidneys are too fatty and should not be given. But the tripe (cow stomach) - excellent dish! Moreover, the healthiest tripe is the uncleaned one – green and smelly. It must be washed well and scalded with boiling water.
Another great product is esophagus. This is a muscular tube that is not sold on the market, like tripe, but you can get it from dog meat suppliers, and it is excellent meat!
Cartilage is also food. Bones are useful for cleaning teeth, but they should be given no more than once a week: the marrow from the bones is very fatty and, if consumed frequently, causes diarrhea. As soon as the dog has chewed the cartilage, take the bone, because the very substance of the bone in the dog's intestines sticks together into stones and can cause constipation and intestinal inflammation. Contrary to popular belief, bones are not best food for dogs. Dogs eat meat!
But products such as cow noses and ears are an excellent delicacy and a complete meal, containing skin, wool (also healthy!), cartilage, and meat.
The udder is a high-calorie product and grows well in winter.
In general, offal is much healthier and tastier for dogs than the muscle meat that we prefer.
Chicken is also very good, but only if you are sure that there is no risk of salmonellosis and your dog does not have allergies, because chicken is very allergenic product. In this case adult dog You can give whole chicken backs and wings (but not legs - the long bones in them can cut the dog's esophagus or intestines!).
Dogs do not digest pork well, and so does lamb.
A 2-month-old puppy should cut the meat into pieces with a side of about 0.5 cm. An adult dog can be given a whole piece, but then she will waste it on the floor. Therefore, I prefer to cut into pieces with a side of about 2-3 cm.
— Cereals. The dog is a predator. Predators obtain cereals and plants from the stomachs of their herbivorous victims, already processed. At home, such processing will be replaced by cooking. Porridge can be cooked in broth or water, without salt and with the addition of vegetables.
For cereals, you can use buckwheat (both uncooked and processed) and rice. Dogs digest corn grits more poorly; they practically do not digest millet. Semolina no need to give. Wheat, pearl barley - yes, if the dog loves it.
— Vegetables. As I already wrote, the dog will better digest vegetables in the processed version. Processing can be of two types. The first is cooking. Vegetables can be cooked together with cereals or added separately. In this case, vitamins are almost completely decomposed, but very valuable fiber remains.
The second method is fine grinding, in a blender or on a fine grater (cutting will not work). This is, of course, more useful, but you can use both options. In their raw form, carrots, apples, zucchini, and cucumbers go well with dogs. Raw potatoes and dogs do not digest legumes. Other fruits and vegetables - look at the dog. Many dogs love to chew carrots, sweet pepper, cabbage. Offer this to your puppy - it's vitamins, teeth cleaning, and a toy!
— Fruits. Many people note that Basenjis love fruit. You can add apples, pears, and bananas to cottage cheese or kefir. Just don't get carried away with citrus fruits.
— Green. The standard option is parsley. As a source of vitamins – finely chopped into porridge. There is no need to give hot onions, but garlic for the prevention of worms is very desirable. For an adult dog – a half tooth per week.
— Fermented milk products. Cottage cheese is low-fat. Kefir, fermented baked milk. This also includes cheese - it is often used as a delicacy. Choose unsalted cheese!
— Oils. Essential for good skin and coat. Added to porridge. It can be any unrefined vegetable oil. There will be no harm from cream either.
— Eggs – chicken. Cook for 5 minutes. (it turns out slightly soft-boiled). 1 egg per week, can be mixed with vegetables or kefir. Source of easily digestible protein and immunomodulator.
— Water. I never tire of repeating – pay attention to the water your dog will drink. Don't let her drink anything you wouldn't drink yourself. Let it be good filtered or bottled water, otherwise you will have to say goodbye to white teeth.

Natural diet must definitely include vitamins and microelements, unless you grow all the vegetables, fruits and herbs on fertile land. Usually what we buy is very poor in vitamins. A separate note about vitamins.

What a dog shouldn't do:
Smoked. Roast. Salty. Spicy. Sweet. Tubular bones and any bones that can be chewed into sharp pieces. Mushrooms. Spices. Soups. Bread in large quantities.

How to create a feeding schedule?
An adult dog eats 2 times a day: morning and evening.
The optimal number of feedings for a puppy between 2 and 3 months of age. – 5 times a day.
From 3 to 4-4.5 months. – 4 times a day.
From 4-4.5 to 8 months. – 3 times a day.
Of course, the schedule is conditional. The number of feedings, in particular, very much depends on how much you train the dog - after all, during the training process, the dog sometimes eats treats for a full meal!

And yet, here is an approximate feeding schedule depending on age:

From 2 months up to 3 months:
7.00-8.00 – fermented milk products
12.00 – porridge with vegetables
15.00 – meat
19.00 – fermented milk products
23.00 – meat
Meat at night is physiological for dogs. After a hearty meat dinner, they go to bed.
Once a week you can replace the meat with an egg. One more time a week is one meat feeding replace with porridge with vegetables.

From 3 months up to 4-4.5 months:
7.00-8.00 – porridge with vegetables
13.00 – meat
18.00 – fermented milk products
23.00 – meat
Once a week you can replace the meat with an egg. Two more times a week - replace one meat feeding with porridge with vegetables.

From 4-4.5 months. up to 8 months:
7.00-8.00 – porridge with vegetables
14.00-15.00 – fermented milk products
22.00-23.00 – meat
Usually at this age it goes active process training, and the daily portion can be reduced, replaced with salad with vegetable oil or completely removed due to treats.

From 8 months:
Morning – porridge with vegetables or fermented milk products
Evening - meat
Sometimes meat can be replaced with porridge or fermented milk products, egg.

Treats for dogs

What to treat your dog with? Usually, treats are needed during training to reward the dog for correct actions. When walking with your puppy, it’s good to have treats with you at all times so that you can treat him in time for approaching on command or refusing food found on the ground.
The treat should be prepared in advance in the form of small pieces. It should be eaten quickly (if a dog takes a long time to chew on a tasty treat, this slows down the learning process) and not get your hands dirty. It is convenient to keep treats in a belt bag.
You should not use sausage and frankfurters as treats. Think about it – for a walk full of communication with your dog, you can feed your puppy a whole bowl! A bowl of sausage is not the healthiest food. And the dog will quickly want to drink from it.
Unsalted cheese is preferable. But you can’t get by with cheese alone; you’ll have to prepare the delicacy yourself.
It could be boiled beef. To prevent it from getting your hands dirty, you can dry it in the microwave.
Oven-dried heart pieces are a convenient and healthy option.
You can also cook liver. Her strong smell will help attract the dog's attention on the street.
Boiled white chicken meat is cut into cubes and hardly gets your hands dirty.

Walking, teaching cleanliness

From the moment the post-vaccination quarantine ended, I recommend sticking to a strict walking pattern. Even if they sometimes last only a couple of minutes - but they should be! Experience shows that by following this scheme, it is possible to maximize short term teach your puppy to keep the house clean.
Attention! There should be a walk, even if the puppy has already gone to the toilet at home!
In the morning we got up and immediately went for a walk. We had breakfast and took the puppy out again, just for a minute. And then take him outside after each feeding.
With this regimen, the puppy is already 4 months old. will try to go to the toilet outside. Of course, he will be able to completely switch to this regime only at the age of 6-7 months, but progress will be obvious.
From 4-4.5 months. the puppy will switch to 3 meals a day. And it will slowly begin to switch to adult scheme walks that are convenient for you. If you are planning an active walk, with games and running around, it should be BEFORE meals. If you plan to engage in training during a walk, the puppy must be hungry (otherwise, why would he be interested in your treat). I generally feed adult dogs after a walk.
At about 5 months of age. The puppy is growing rapidly. And often in toilet matters there is a rollback. The puppy starts peeing at home again, and sometimes tries to do it in completely inappropriate places: on a chair, in his slippers, in his place. In short - to where it is quickly absorbed. He no longer wants to dirty the house, but bladder cannot cope with the load, and the puppy tries to urinate where it will be least noticeable. If this suddenly happens, it means you need to increase the number or duration of walks, and return “to kindergarten.”
At about 8 months of age. the dog eats 2 times a day. You need to walk an adult dog at least 2 times a day. During the walk, she should completely empty her bladder and bowels. sometimes the dog can only do this after he moves.

Vaccinations

You receive a puppy at 8 weeks of age. He will already be vaccinated with vaccines Nobivac DHPPi and Nobivac Lepto. The Nobivac vaccine is one of the best. Nobivac DHPPi protects your dog against canine distemper (distemper), hepatitis, parvovirus and parainfluenza. Nobivac Lepto is a vaccine against leptospirosis. Your puppy is protected for the next 4 weeks.
However immune system A puppy, like any child, is imperfect. To produce a sufficient amount of antibodies that will protect it from the listed diseases for a year (in reality, even 2 years), the puppy needs revaccination - a second vaccination at the age of 12 weeks. If you don't do it, the puppy runs the risk of getting sick. I still remember the times before good vaccines, when the plague could wipe out all the young animals in the city. It was very scary. Apart from vaccination, there is nothing a puppy can do against this disease.
However, you can only vaccinate absolutely healthy dog! Therefore, in the 4 weeks that remain before re-vaccination, the puppy should not be overcooled, he should not be allowed to communicate with animals other than those that live in your house, and even outdoor shoes should be taken off outside the threshold. The puppies have undergone excellent socialization in canine and human societies from the breeder, so the period of forced isolation will not cause any harm to their development. And you will devote these weeks to mutual communication.
You can – and should – take your puppy for walks during this period! – take it outside in your arms, in your bosom (given the winter) and literally for a few minutes. Walks can be lengthened every week. But it's always better to walk for 5 minutes. 3 times a day than 1 time for 15 minutes. If the air temperature is below -10 degrees, do not take the puppy outside. If it’s warm outside, and you have the opportunity to walk where there are no strangers dogs (your own property, for example), you can lower the puppy to the ground. Make sure it doesn't freeze!
The puppy will go to the toilet all this time at home - on a sheet, and also wherever necessary :).
At the age of 11 weeks the puppy must be given anthelmintic. I will give all owners a drug for puppies - the one they were dewormed with before the first vaccination. This is a suspension that is given to the puppy from a syringe. It is given 7-10 days before vaccination. If the dog is not dewormed before vaccination, vaccination may lead to severe complications and even to the death of a puppy! Monitor the puppy carefully throughout the entire period! If there is a suspicion that he is not feeling well, it is better to postpone vaccination! A sick dog should not be vaccinated!
On the day of vaccination (or better the day before), measure the puppy’s temperature (with a thermometer at anus, if you don’t know how, ask me). I don't take my dogs' temperatures at veterinary clinics because... I don’t know how their thermometer was sterilized. For those who live in St. Petersburg, the situation is simplified - they can bring puppies to me. I take the temperature, examine the puppy and give vaccinations. The rest - read on.
You need to be vaccinated with the same vaccines: Nobivac DHPPi and Nobivac Lepto. The veterinary clinic will probably strongly suggest that you vaccinate your puppy against rabies ( Nobivac vaccine Rabies). Don't do this! The rabies vaccine is very toxic, and the later you vaccinate your puppy with it, the better. About rabies - below.
After vaccination, the puppy begins a quarantine period. If during this period the puppy gets sick, then the disease (any one!) can be very serious, and vaccination will actually go down the drain. Therefore, for another week you and the puppy continue to live in the same gentle regime.
And now, finally, it has arrived - the blessed age of 13 weeks! The puppy is vaccinated and can go for walks! Of course, the duration of walks should increase very gradually. And, of course, in cold weather the puppy should walk dressed! Buy him a blanket that covers his chest (put the overalls on the puppy - not an easy task:), and there won’t be any severe cold at that time).
Let's get back to the rabies vaccine. It is definitely necessary to vaccinate your dog against rabies! This terrible disease, absolutely fatal and dangerous for humans, and vaccination - the only way protect yourself from it. Rabid animals are also found in cities, and if you travel outside the city, the risk of encountering a rabid fox or hedgehog increases significantly. One bite from a sick animal and you no longer have a dog. And the vaccine provides almost 100% protection.
When should this vaccination be given? I would recommend - no earlier than six months (6 months). But it all depends on your lifestyle. If the situation in your region is unfavorable with regard to rabies, or if you go to the forest with your dog, or live near a forest, and there is a risk of encountering a wild animal with rabies, vaccinate earlier. But the healthiest thing for your puppy is not to take him to places where you can see wild animals until he is 6 months old.
7-10 days before the rabies vaccination, you will give the puppy an anthelmintic drug (already in tablets, like an adult dog, in a dosage by weight). This could be, for example, Drontal or Kanikvantel. And after 7-10 days you will be vaccinated against rabies with the Nobivak Rabies or Eurikan Rabies vaccine (owners in St. Petersburg can again bring puppies to me, rather than drag them to the clinic) - and that’s all. Your dog has been vaccinated with a good vaccine against dangerous diseases.
When to carry out repeated vaccinations? In reality, a sufficient concentration of antibodies in a dog’s blood lasts 2-3 years. That is, a dog can be vaccinated once every 2 years - against all the diseases listed above. But here’s the problem - if you visit exhibitions, or travel with a dog on a train-plane, or cross the border with it, you must vaccinate annually! These are the rules, otherwise you will not be given the necessary certificates.

» Feeding

Feeding

Chairs should be pushed in tightly, food should not be left on the table, food should not be fed from the table, the dog should be fed only from a bowl or from the hand, and food and treats should not be thrown onto the floor for the puppy.

The food and water bowl should be on a stand and located at chest level so that the puppy only puts his face in it. As the puppy grows, the stand under the bowl should “grow.” This is important for correct formation exterior.

The puppy should always have fresh water. Pay attention to the water your dog will drink. Don't let her drink anything you wouldn't drink yourself. Let it be good filtered or bottled water, otherwise in a year your dog’s beautiful white teeth will be covered with a nasty plaque, stomach problems will begin, and the smell from the mouth will knock you off your feet.

All attempts by the puppy to beg for something from the table are attacked or ignored. Always clear food from the table when you leave the kitchen. Even a well-mannered dog, left alone with food, will certainly try to steal it.

When a puppy finds itself in an unfamiliar house, it experiences stress. This may affect his appetite. For the first 7-10 days, the puppy should be fed in the same way as the breeder fed it. Introduce new foods gradually, in small portions. The puppy should be fed at regular intervals. Approximate number of feedings per day: up to 2 months. 5-6 times, from 2 to 4 months. 4-5 times, from 4 to 6 months. 3-4 times, from 6 to 12 months. 3 times, from 12 months. 1-2 times.

The general rule is to feed your dog so that it is neither excessively thin nor overweight. The ribs should be palpable without problems, but not protruding.

Food should not be freely available all the time - only during feeding. Anything the dog doesn't eat, you remove. The amount of food should be such that the puppy quickly eats the offered portion, licks the bowl and moves away from it. If the puppy licks the bowl for a long time and carefully and does not leave it, it means that he is not full.

Types of feeding.

Or only natural products with the addition of mineral supplements, or only ready-made food one company (dry and canned), observing the recommended norm for the dog’s weight. If you choose dry food, choose good food. Those called “Premium class” and “Super-premium class”. These are Pro Pak, Eukanuba, Royal Canin, Hills, Akana...

About food products.

A dog is a predator, so the basis of its diet should be meat (raw, or scalded with boiling water) - beef, veal, turkey, rabbit. In an adult dog, meat and offal make up a third of the diet.

By-products(boil lightly) - liver, heart, no more than once a week. Scar(cow stomach) is a great dish! Moreover, the healthiest tripe is the uncleaned one - green and smelly. It must be washed well and scalded with boiling water.
Another great product - esophagus. N wasps and ears cows are an excellent delicacy and a complete meal, containing skin, wool (also healthy!), cartilage, and meat.
In general, offal is much healthier and tastier for dogs than muscle meat, which we prefer.

Bones and cartilage(soft and raw) are useful for cleaning teeth, but they should be given no more than once a week: marrow from the bones is very fatty and if consumed frequently causes diarrhea. As soon as the dog has chewed the cartilage, take the bone, because the very substance of the bone in the dog's intestines sticks together into stones, and can cause constipation and intestinal inflammation. Contrary to popular belief, bones are not the best food for dogs. Dogs eat meat!

Chicken- but only if you are sure that there is no risk of salmonellosis. An adult dog can be given whole chicken backs and wings.

Cereals- buckwheat, rice (with water and without salt).

Oil- necessary for good skin and coat. Add to porridge. It can be any unrefined vegetable oil.

Green. Standard option - parsley. As a source of vitamins - finely chopped into porridge. There is no need to give hot onions, but garlic for the prevention of worms is very desirable. For an adult dog - a half tooth per week.

Vegetables(raw) - carrots, cucumbers, pumpkin, zucchini, squash, spinach. Beets and cabbage - in small quantities. No potatoes and legumes!

Fruits- apples, pears, bananas, etc.

Low-fat fermented milk products- cottage cheese, kefir, fermented baked milk, yogurt without sugar.

Eggs chicken Cook for 5 minutes. (it turns out slightly soft-boiled). 1 egg per week, can be mixed with vegetables or kefir. Quail eggs.

IT IS FORBIDDEN : boiled bones, pork, soups, sausages, oatmeal, pasta, potatoes, sour cream, cream. No leftover human food! Everything spicy, fried, salted, smoked disrupts metabolism, spoils teeth, eyes, and fur.

A natural diet must include vitamins and microelements.

Don't overfeed your puppy! What kind of dog will become depends on what you put into the puppy as it grows.

Home page » Feeding

IN lately Basenji dogs have become very popular; photos of them can be easily found on the Internet. This is due to the fact that they have unique qualities, which are absent in other breeds. So for example this complete absence barking, as well as the presence of anti-allergenic qualities in their fur. As a result, Basenjis can be kept in urban environments without fear of disturbing neighbors or causing harm to allergic family members.

History of the Basenji breed

The Basenji breed has several names. The most common are:

nyam nyam terrier;
Zende dog;
Congolese bush dog;
forest dog from the Congo.

Scientists attribute it to the oldest breeds dogs, since its history goes back more than 5,000 years, while its homeland is central Africa. Distinctive feature Basenjis are incapable of barking; excited representatives of this breed can make a rumbling sound, but you will not hear any other sounds from them. In addition, these representatives of the canine family have absolutely no smell and, like a cat, wash themselves with their paws. Doctors consider this breed to be hypoallergenic, which allows people prone to allergies to keep it.

The written history of the breed dates back to Ancient Egypt, where these dogs were very often given to the pharaohs as a living talisman. Their multiple images have been recorded in pyramids and other ancient Egyptian structures. In addition, Basenjis were very common in Nubia, where they were used for hunting and guarding the settlements of the local population.

These animals were first brought to Europe in 1895 under the name of the Pharaoh Hound. Unfortunately, the first representatives of the breed did not survive. This was due to the fact that Europeans simply did not know how to handle them and what features the African non-barking dog had. Also, small breed dogs bred on the continent had the same qualities as Basenjis, but they were more accustomed to local conditions than a capricious African.

Until 1937, Basenjis were considered exotic animals and were even kept in zoos. The breed standard was created in England around the same time, and it is still in use today. Despite this circumstance, these dogs were officially introduced in the United States under the name “Basenji”, and for some time they were exhibited as the “Congo Terrier”. Official date The birth of the breed in the USA is considered to be 1941, when a pair of these dogs were brought to the American continent from Europe.

As for Russia, Basenjis began to spread massively in our country starting in the 90s of the last century. Before this, they were considered an exotic breed and were imported to the USSR in single copies. Currently, these dogs are quite common among lovers of exotic breeds: nurseries operate, competitions and exhibitions are held, and a breed registry is maintained.

Pros and cons of the breed

The Basenji dog, or African non-barking dog, is purchased mainly as a representative exotic breed. Due to the fact that it makes virtually no sounds, does not shed and does not cause allergies, it is often used in the city as a companion. In addition, the animal is also purchased for breeding and as a show dog.

It is worth noting that this breed is not an exception in the world of dogs; it has both its advantages and disadvantages. Its advantages include the following points:

exceptional affection for the owner;
complete absence of odor and exceptional cleanliness;
friendliness towards children;
cheerful and lively character.

As for the shortcomings, they are mainly related to character. So, they include:

need for constant attention;
fear of loneliness;
self-will and independence;
cunning and a tendency to manipulate the owner.

All the described shortcomings are corrected with timely training, carried out according to special rules. If this is not neglected, you will get an active, devoted and cheerful friend with whom you can not only go for long walks, but also play sports.

General description of the breed standard

In the event that you decide to purchase a Basenji, you will need a description of the breed, since its appearance is quite prosaic, and it can easily be confused with dogs of other breeds. In addition, there are frequent cases of fraud when dishonest people substitute the results of culling or even outbred mestizos instead of purebred puppies.

When purchasing a Basenji, its description must be checked against the breed standard valid for at the moment. Thus, according to him, the African non-barking dog has two subspecies: plain and forest. The plain has a height at the withers of 40 cm, the forest - approximately 35. Males of this breed weigh about 10.8 kg, females - 9.9.

The Basenji dog breed has a medium-sized wedge-shaped head. She is graceful, with a flat forehead and a muzzle that starts at the eyes. The ears on it are straightened in a state of alertness, they are close to each other and therefore have a wrinkled fold between them.

As for the skin, it is damp and forms on the dog’s back. large number wrinkles and folds. At the same time this feature characteristic of both puppies and adult animals. The Basenji's muzzle has almost invisible folds that only appear when the dog is tense and looking for a target.

The color of this breed is strictly regulated. Thus, a light fawn color with a white mark on the chest, forming a kind of “collar” that extends onto the chest, is allowed for the plain variety. In addition, white “pants” may be placed on the legs. The forest one can have a dark fawn color, almost reddish-red, with extensive white markings.

The animal's teeth should be in a "line" and have a scissor bite. His neck is high, long, and smoothly blends into the withers. At the same time, the body is compact in size, the chest is not wide, and the tail is thrown over the back, twisted into a tight ring and fits tightly to the thigh.

The Basenji's coat is thin and short, and its skin is very soft. As for temperament, representatives of this breed are distinguished by independence, energy and affectionate nature, while they are distrustful of strangers. These dogs move at an accelerated trot and have a sweeping and smooth stride.

If you decide to visit, for example, the Salonga Basenji nursery in order to buy a puppy there, in addition to knowing the breed standard, you will also need to familiarize yourself with the rules for selecting representatives of this breed for their subsequent keeping at home.

Selection of Basenji puppies

Having studied the breed standard and the character of the Basenji, you can begin choosing a puppy. It is best to choose puppies 2-3 months old, since at this age all the shortcomings of a particular individual will already appear, and it will be clear whether it will be culled or bred. In addition, in this way you can protect yourself from the actions of unscrupulous citizens who, taking advantage of the inexperience of novice dog lovers, slip them puppies that do not meet breed standards.

In connection with the mentioned circumstance experienced dog breeders It is recommended to buy puppies with a good pedigree exclusively from certified nurseries and kennel clubs. Their addresses can be found on the Internet on special resources, for example, for Moscow they are located on the Salonga Basenji forum. In addition, you can buy purebred puppy directly from the breeder.

In this case, when purchasing a Basenji, collect reviews about such a breeder. If they are positive, then the purchase can be made with confidence. It is also worth making an appointment in advance to purchase a puppy, because throughout Russia no more than several hundred puppies of this breed are born per year, so you may simply not get a puppy.

In addition, you should go for your future pet only after you have studied the breed standard. To do this, it is worth studying a video with the Basenji breed in order to clearly understand what exactly to look for when choosing a puppy. If you correspond via the Internet directly with a dog breeder who has Basenji puppies, ask him for their photos. These are also precautions against scammers.

In any case, it is best to buy animals through the mediation of an employee of a Basenji nursery in Moscow. This guarantees the presence of a pedigree among the puppy’s parents and the legality of their mating. Documents confirming this may include awards from the puppy's parents, as well as a certificate of entry about them in the breed registry. In addition, it is worth focusing on the price, since good dog This breed cannot have a price less than 15,000 rubles.

It is also worth remembering that Basenji puppies can develop all their performance characteristics over time and positive qualities only under the condition of good and proper care behind them and timely training. It makes sense to attend special courses before purchasing them and learn all the intricacies of keeping this breed at home.

The African Basenji no-bark dog has a short, dense coat that requires regular brushing. At the same time this operation The dog owner himself is quite capable of doing this. In addition, while still a puppy, he will need to have his fifth toe docked, since its presence in the future may negatively affect the formation of his paws. You can find out how to carry out this operation by contacting your nearest Basenji nursery.

As for washing, these dogs need little, as they are afraid of water. At the same time, their short hair does not protect them well from frost, so when walking in winter you will need to wear special clothing. You will also need to put special covers on the paws so that the dog does not freeze them.

You should also be careful about the condition of the eyes, ears and claws. The eyes of the African non-barking dog need to be carefully cleaned with a cotton pad, and if necessary, also dripped eye drops. The ears are also cleaned with cotton swabs, and the claws are trimmed and filed.

Basenjis are demanding when it comes to food, as they are prone to kidney disease and digestive tract, as well as the occurrence of hernias. So, the basis of their diet should be lean raw meat, while bones should be given separately no more than once a week. Puppies should also eat dairy products and cottage cheese. Later, with age, they can be transferred to such feed mixtures, like Royal Canin or Hills.

At the same time, it is strictly forbidden for the African non-barking dog to give human food products, especially smoked, fried and spicy ones.

If necessary, you can cook fish, offal, and unsalted porridge in water. Since the Basenji is an active and energetic dog, it needs regular walks, during which it needs to be engaged in active games. In addition, you need to avoid overfeeding, as this may cause your pet to become obese.

Raising and training an African non-barking dog

The non-barking Basenji dog has a number of character traits that must be taken into account in the process of raising and training it. Since this animal is extremely active and energetic, when working with it you need to have high endurance and repeat some exercises several times. For example, Basenjis are prone to escapes, since in their homeland they lead a life with virtually no human intervention, hunt themselves and walk uncontrollably. Therefore, you need a puppy from the very beginning early age Strictly teach him to use a leash so that he doesn’t run away later on walks.

At the same time, if the dog still runs away, you should not punish it for this, but if it returns at your command, this behavior should be encouraged. In order for your relationship to be correct, it is necessary to raise the dog under the undeniable leadership of a person. Only in this case will the dog listen to all your commands and carry them out unquestioningly.

So, first the puppy must remember his name. Next, you need to encourage his natural positive properties. For example, Basenjis do not sniff strangers, which is very good in city conditions. Such behavior must be encouraged.

When raising a puppy of the described breed, you must adhere to the following rules:

Be sure to encourage the breed's curiosity and natural intelligence;
strictly suppress all dog’s requests for leadership;
praise for every completed command;
Do not punish the animal physically.

IN mandatory During the training process, it is necessary to repeat the same command several times for better memorization. The fact is that an animal can forget even a long-learned command. In addition, Basenjis are very smart breed, and she may simply “forget” to perform actions that are unpleasant to her. In this case, you don’t need to punish her, but just take the food away from her and return it only when she fulfills your order.

Be sure to train your dog to the maximum extent possible, since the African non-barking dog is naturally very active, and if its energy is not released, its character can seriously deteriorate. At proper education and periodic training, you get a clean, intelligent, confident and quiet companion who can give you a lot of positive emotions.

Description of the breed, living conditions and history of the Basenji dog was last modified: July 14th, 2016 by Maxim Bartsev

So - you are expecting a puppy. Very soon he will arrive - so wonderful, silky, smelling delicious, affectionate and cheerful!

How to prepare for the arrival of a puppy?

You will need:
— Bowl– metal or ceramic, volume approximately 250 ml. Sold in pet stores. Don’t buy a plastic one - the puppy will immediately chew it off. Remember that the puppy should have food in his bowl only during the time allotted for feeding; if he doesn’t eat it, we remove it. But water should be freely available at all times. Therefore, it may be more convenient for you to get two bowls at once - for food and for water.
— Bedding or basket. Choose the size immediately for an adult Basenji - the puppy grows rapidly. Now in pet stores there is a huge selection of places for dogs, you can choose the color of the main furniture. Even if you plan for the dog to sleep on the sofa or bed, still give the puppy a separate place. If only because he still doesn’t know how to keep clean and will easily pee on your sofa.
— Toys and chews. Basenjis prefer soft toys. Our leaders are pieces of natural fur. Also very good toys for dogs are made by Hartz (Hartz, sold in pet stores) and, oddly enough, Ikea. When purchasing, pay attention to the filler - it should be uniform, without balls. There should also be no small hard parts, such as eyes and nose, that the puppy can chew off and swallow.
Chews are your salvation. They will occupy the puppy's teeth and prevent him from turning them against your apartment. I recommend buying the simplest delicacies from veins (the cheapest, our production). Of course, Tit-Bit and others like it are much tastier, but they have 2 drawbacks. They are eaten very quickly, filling the puppy’s stomach with not the most healthy food. And they are quite expensive, and after such tasty chews the puppy will refuse to chew simple bones from the veins. And the puppy should have chews all the time.
Many puppies enjoy chewing on sticks. If you don’t mind trash, you can go this route. Choose sticks without splinters, smooth, and made from fresh wood. And I wouldn’t leave the puppy alone with a stick - he might eat some wood chips, this is very dangerous.
— Food and water. I will write separately how and what to feed the puppy. Pay attention to the water your dog will drink. Don't let her drink anything you wouldn't drink yourself. Let it be good filtered or bottled water, otherwise in a year your dog’s beautiful white teeth will be covered with a nasty coating, stomach problems will begin, and the smell from the mouth will knock you off your feet.

That's all you need at first. Buy the rest along the way.

You also need to prepare the apartment.
— Remove or de-energize all electrical wires that the puppy can reach (and he can climb almost anywhere!). Train yourself to unplug plugs from sockets when you are not using them.
— If you do not plan to let your dog into any premises, make them inaccessible to the puppy from the first day.
— It’s in the Basenji’s blood to climb higher. Don't even expect the dog to be satisfied with the floor! And immediately decide which sofas, chairs, and beds she can climb onto and which ones she cannot. You can’t explain to a small puppy how one sofa is different from another, so just make it so that he can’t get on it. And, frankly, I would limit the puppy's access to upholstered furniture until he grows up and understands that he cannot pee on the chair.
Place pillows near those sofas and armchairs where the dog will be allowed to climb. Puppy up to 4 months old. he could get injured by jumping off the sofa - this is still too high for him. But the puppies instantly figure out where it’s more convenient to get down, and one day they learn to use a ladder made of pillows.
Move chairs, stools and other low furniture away from window sills. The puppy can easily climb from the furniture onto the windowsill - slippery, cold and high. If your window sill is low and wide, simply created for a dog, put tourist foam on it, it will not allow the cold to pass through and the dog will not catch a cold.
— Get used to the idea that everything that doesn’t lie well will become a dog’s toy. These could equally well be old socks and new boots. And an antique chair can be chewed just as hard as a simple stool! Train yourself to put your shoes away.
— Train yourself not to leave food on the table. You don't want your dog to steal your breakfast, do you? And the surest way to wean her from this is not to accustom her. Those. – do not create a precedent! For the same reason, remove the trash can from public access. If you stay in this mode for a year, you will make your life much easier later.

Look around your home. Well, are you ready?

- “Will the puppy chew anything in my house?”

How to feed a puppy and an adult Basenji?

The general rule is to feed your dog so that it is neither excessively thin nor overweight. The ribs should be palpable without problems, but not protruding. Obesity means fatty liver, high stress on the heart and minus years of life for your dog.
Food should not be freely available all the time - only during feeding. Anything the dog didn’t eat, you remove. The amount of food should be such that the puppy quickly eats the offered portion, licks the bowl and moves away from it. If the puppy licks the bowl for a long time and carefully and does not leave it, it means that he is not full.

If you choose dry food, choose good food. Those called “Premium class” and “Super-premium class”. These are Pro Pak, Eukanuba, Royal Canin, Hills, Akana... Everything is simple with them - the dog will eat dry food and drink water, and you will be spared the need to cook something, think through the diet, etc. I made a choice in favor of natural food, but I don’t force it on anyone. However, if you also prefer to feed your dog “natural”, here are recommendations on how to do it correctly.
The dog should receive in food:
— Meat, raw. In an adult dog it makes up from a third to half of the diet.
Beef, veal. Moreover, both muscle meat and offal. If you give liver and heart, it is better to lightly boil them, since they contain a lot of blood, this can cause diarrhea. The kidneys are too fatty and should not be given. But tripe (cow stomach) is an excellent dish! Moreover, the healthiest tripe is the uncleaned one – green and smelly. It must be washed well and scalded with boiling water.
Another great product is esophagus. This is a muscular tube that is not sold on the market, like tripe, but you can get it from dog meat suppliers, and it is excellent meat!
Cartilage is also food. Bones are useful for cleaning teeth, but they should be given no more than once a week: the marrow from the bones is very fatty and, if consumed frequently, causes diarrhea. As soon as the dog has chewed the cartilage, take the bone, because the very substance of the bone in the dog's intestines sticks together into stones and can cause constipation and intestinal inflammation. Contrary to popular belief, bones are not the best food for dogs. Dogs eat meat!
But products such as cow noses and ears are an excellent delicacy and a complete meal, containing skin, wool (also healthy!), cartilage, and meat.
The udder is a high-calorie product and grows well in winter.
In general, offal is much healthier and tastier for dogs than the muscle meat that we prefer.
Chicken is also very good, but only if you are sure that there is no risk of salmonellosis and your dog does not have allergies, because chicken is a very allergenic food. In this case, an adult dog can be given whole chicken backs and wings (but not legs - the long bones in them can cut the dog's esophagus or intestines!).
Dogs do not digest pork well, and so does lamb.
A 2-month-old puppy should cut the meat into pieces with a side of about 0.5 cm. An adult dog can be given a whole piece, but then she will waste it on the floor. Therefore, I prefer to cut into pieces with a side of about 2-3 cm.
— Cereals. The dog is a predator. Predators obtain cereals and plants from the stomachs of their herbivorous victims, already processed. At home, such processing will be replaced by cooking. Porridge can be cooked in broth or water, without salt and with the addition of vegetables.
For cereals, you can use buckwheat (both uncooked and processed) and rice. Dogs digest corn grits more poorly; they practically do not digest millet. There is no need to give semolina. Wheat, pearl barley - yes, if the dog loves it.
— Vegetables. As I already wrote, the dog will better digest vegetables in the processed version. Processing can be of two types. The first is cooking. Vegetables can be cooked together with cereals or added separately. In this case, vitamins are almost completely decomposed, but very valuable fiber remains.
The second method is fine grinding, in a blender or on a fine grater (cutting will not work). This is, of course, more useful, but you can use both options. In their raw form, carrots, apples, zucchini, and cucumbers go well with dogs. Dogs cannot digest raw potatoes and legumes. Other fruits and vegetables - look at the dog. Many dogs love to chew carrots, bell peppers, and cabbage. Offer this to your puppy - it's vitamins, teeth cleaning, and a toy!
— Fruits. Many people note that Basenjis love fruit. You can add apples, pears, and bananas to cottage cheese or kefir. Just don't get carried away with citrus fruits.
— Green. The standard option is parsley. As a source of vitamins – finely chopped into porridge. There is no need to give hot onions, but garlic for the prevention of worms is very desirable. For an adult dog – a half tooth per week.
— Fermented milk products. Cottage cheese is low-fat. Kefir, fermented baked milk. This also includes cheese - it is often used as a delicacy. Choose unsalted cheese!
— Oils. Essential for good skin and coat. Added to porridge. It can be any unrefined vegetable oil. There will be no harm from cream either.
— Eggs – chicken. Cook for 5 minutes. (it turns out slightly soft-boiled). 1 egg per week, can be mixed with vegetables or kefir. Source of easily digestible protein and immunomodulator.
— Water. I never tire of repeating – pay attention to the water your dog will drink. Don't let her drink anything you wouldn't drink yourself. Let it be good filtered or bottled water, otherwise you will have to say goodbye to white teeth.

A natural diet must include vitamins and microelements, unless you grow all your vegetables, fruits and herbs on fertile soil. Usually what we buy is very poor in vitamins. A separate note about vitamins.

What a dog shouldn't do:
Smoked. Roast. Salty. Spicy. Sweet. Tubular bones and any bones that can be chewed into sharp pieces. Mushrooms. Spices. Soups. Bread in large quantities.

And yet, here is an approximate feeding schedule depending on age:

From 2 months up to 3 months:
7.00-8.00 – fermented milk products
12.00 – porridge with vegetables
15.00 – meat
19.00 – fermented milk products
23.00 – meat
Meat at night is physiological for dogs. After a hearty meat dinner, they go to bed.
Once a week you can replace the meat with an egg. One more time a week - replace one meat feeding with porridge with vegetables.

From 4-4.5 months. up to 8 months:
7.00-8.00 – porridge with vegetables
14.00-15.00 – fermented milk products
22.00-23.00 – meat
Usually at this age there is an active process of training, and the daily portion can be reduced, replaced with a salad with vegetable oil, or completely removed with a treat.

From 8 months:
Morning – porridge with vegetables or fermented milk products
Evening - meat
Sometimes meat can be replaced with porridge or fermented milk products, eggs.

Treats for dogs

What to treat your dog with? Treats are usually used during training to reward the dog for doing the right thing. When walking with your puppy, it’s good to have treats with you at all times so that you can treat him in time for approaching on command or refusing food found on the ground.
The treat should be prepared in advance in the form of small pieces. It should be eaten quickly (if a dog takes a long time to chew on a tasty treat, this slows down the learning process) and not get your hands dirty. It is convenient to keep treats in a belt bag.
You should not use sausage and frankfurters as treats. Think about it – for a walk full of communication with your dog, you can feed your puppy a whole bowl! A bowl of sausage is not the healthiest food. And the dog will quickly want to drink from it.
Unsalted cheese is preferable. But you can’t get by with cheese alone; you’ll have to prepare the delicacy yourself.
It could be boiled beef. To prevent it from getting your hands dirty, you can dry it in the microwave.
Oven-dried heart pieces are a convenient and healthy option.
You can also cook liver. Its strong smell will help attract the dog's attention on the street.
Boiled white chicken meat is cut into cubes and hardly gets your hands dirty.

Walking, teaching cleanliness

From the moment the post-vaccination quarantine ended, I recommend sticking to a strict walking pattern. Even if they sometimes last only a couple of minutes - but they should be! Experience shows that by following this scheme, it is possible to teach the puppy to keep the house clean in the shortest possible time.
Attention! There should be a walk, even if the puppy has already gone to the toilet at home!
In the morning we got up and immediately went for a walk. We had breakfast and took the puppy out again, just for a minute. And then take him outside after each feeding.
With this regimen, the puppy is already 4 months old. will try to go to the toilet outside. Of course, he will be able to completely switch to this regime only at the age of 6-7 months, but progress will be obvious.
From 4-4.5 months. the puppy will switch to 3 meals a day. And he will slowly begin to switch to an adult walking pattern that is convenient for you. If you are planning an active walk, with games and running around, it should be BEFORE meals. If you plan to engage in training during a walk, the puppy must be hungry (otherwise, why would he be interested in your treat). I generally feed adult dogs after a walk.
At about 5 months of age. The puppy is growing rapidly. And often in toilet matters there is a rollback. The puppy starts peeing at home again, and sometimes tries to do it in completely inappropriate places: on a chair, in his slippers, in his place. In short - to where it is quickly absorbed. He no longer wants to dirty the house, but his bladder can’t handle the load, and the puppy tries to urinate where it will be least noticeable. If this suddenly happens, it means you need to increase the number or duration of walks, and return “to kindergarten.”
At about 8 months of age. the dog eats 2 times a day. You need to walk an adult dog at least 2 times a day. During the walk, she should completely empty her bladder and bowels. sometimes the dog can only do this after he moves.

Vaccinations

You receive a puppy at 8 weeks of age. He will already be vaccinated with Nobivac DHPPi and Nobivac Lepto vaccines. The Nobivac vaccine is one of the best. Nobivac DHPPi protects your dog against canine distemper (distemper), hepatitis, parvovirus and parainfluenza. Nobivac Lepto is a vaccine against leptospirosis. Your puppy is protected for the next 4 weeks.
However, a puppy's immune system, like any child, is imperfect. To produce a sufficient amount of antibodies that will protect it from the listed diseases for a year (in reality, even 2 years), the puppy needs revaccination - a second vaccination at the age of 12 weeks. If you don't do it, the puppy runs the risk of getting sick. I still remember the times, before the advent of good vaccines, when the plague could wipe out all the young animals in the city. It was very scary. Apart from vaccination, there is nothing a puppy can do against this disease.
However, only an absolutely healthy dog can be vaccinated! Therefore, in the 4 weeks that remain before re-vaccination, the puppy should not be overcooled, he should not be allowed to communicate with animals other than those that live in your house, and even outdoor shoes should be taken off outside the threshold. The puppies have undergone excellent socialization in canine and human societies from the breeder, so the period of forced isolation will not cause any harm to their development. And you will devote these weeks to mutual communication.
You can – and should – take your puppy for walks during this period! – take it outside in your arms, in your bosom (given the winter) and literally for a few minutes. Walks can be lengthened every week. But it's always better to walk for 5 minutes. 3 times a day than 1 time for 15 minutes. If the air temperature is below -10 degrees, do not take the puppy outside. If it’s warm outside, and you have the opportunity to walk where there are no strangers dogs (your own property, for example), you can lower the puppy to the ground. Make sure it doesn't freeze!
The puppy will go to the toilet all this time at home - on a sheet, and also wherever necessary :).
At the age of 11 weeks, the puppy must be given an anthelmintic. I will give all owners a drug for puppies - the one they were dewormed with before the first vaccination. This is a suspension that is given to the puppy from a syringe. It is given 7-10 days before vaccination. If the dog is not dewormed before vaccination, vaccination can lead to serious complications and even death of the puppy! Monitor the puppy carefully throughout the entire period! If there is a suspicion that he is not feeling well, it is better to postpone vaccination! A sick dog should not be vaccinated!
On the day of vaccination (or better the day before), measure the puppy’s temperature (with a thermometer in the anus, if you don’t know how, ask me). I don't take my dogs' temperatures at veterinary clinics because... I don’t know how their thermometer was sterilized. For those who live in St. Petersburg, the situation is simplified - they can bring puppies to me. I take the temperature, examine the puppy and give vaccinations. The rest - read on.
You need to be vaccinated with the same vaccines: Nobivac DHPPi and Nobivac Lepto. The veterinary clinic will probably strongly suggest that you vaccinate your puppy against rabies (Nobivac Rabies vaccine). Don't do this! The rabies vaccine is very toxic, and the later you vaccinate your puppy with it, the better. About rabies - below.
After vaccination, the puppy begins a quarantine period. If during this period the puppy gets sick, then the disease (any one!) can be very serious, and vaccination will actually go down the drain. Therefore, for another week you and the puppy continue to live in the same gentle regime.
And now, finally, it has arrived - the blessed age of 13 weeks! The puppy is vaccinated and can go for walks! Of course, the duration of walks should increase very gradually. And, of course, in cold weather the puppy should walk dressed! Buy him a blanket that covers his chest (putting overalls on a puppy is not an easy task :), and at that time there won’t be any severe cold).
Let's get back to the rabies vaccine. It is definitely necessary to vaccinate your dog against rabies! This is a terrible disease, absolutely fatal and dangerous for humans, and vaccination is the only way to protect against it. Rabid animals are also found in cities, and if you travel outside the city, the risk of encountering a rabid fox or hedgehog increases significantly. One bite from a sick animal and you no longer have a dog. And the vaccine provides almost 100% protection.
When should this vaccination be given? I would recommend - no earlier than six months (6 months). But it all depends on your lifestyle. If the situation in your region is unfavorable with regard to rabies, or if you go to the forest with your dog, or live near a forest, and there is a risk of encountering a wild animal with rabies, vaccinate earlier. But the healthiest thing for your puppy is not to take him to places where you can see wild animals until he is 6 months old.
7-10 days before the rabies vaccination, you will give the puppy an anthelmintic drug (already in tablets, like an adult dog, in a dosage by weight). This could be, for example, Drontal or Kanikvantel. And after 7-10 days you will be vaccinated against rabies with the Nobivak Rabies or Eurikan Rabies vaccine (owners in St. Petersburg can again bring puppies to me, rather than drag them to the clinic) - and that’s all. Your dog has been vaccinated with a good vaccine against dangerous diseases.
When to carry out repeated vaccinations? In reality, a sufficient concentration of antibodies in a dog’s blood lasts 2-3 years. That is, a dog can be vaccinated once every 2 years - against all the diseases listed above. But here’s the problem - if you visit exhibitions, or travel with a dog on a train-plane, or cross the border with it, you must vaccinate annually! These are the rules, otherwise you will not be given the necessary certificates.

Lyudmila Amarantova

» Memo to the bass owner

Memo based on personal experience and from the experience of other owners.

Hard-won advice for the lucky ones who bought a Basenji!!!

Puppy safety

The following should be inaccessible to the puppy: electrical wires, a trash can, needles, medicines, toilet paper, boots and slippers, gloves, mittens, fluffy hats, ballpoint pens, pencils, erasers, office glue, plastic bags, cell phones, remote controls for TV and equipment, etc.

Instead, the puppy should have toys, balls, ropes, plastic bottles from under water, plush toys for dogs, special bones for gnawing, etc.; you can make something out of socks and tights. Toys need to be changed, periodically given some, and then others. To understand how important games are for a puppy, watch the VIDEO "Basenji Puppy". In the first video, Nice is only 2 months old (the video opens after registration).

Get used to the idea that everything that doesn't lie well will become a dog's toy. These could equally well be old socks and new boots. And an antique chair can be chewed just as hard as a simple stool! Train yourself to put your shoes away.
For the same reason, remove the trash can from public access. If you stay in this mode for a year, you will make your life much easier later.

Basenjis can slip through doors that are slightly ajar, so you need to be careful and train your dog not to jump into the stairwell without a command.

Pay attention

Prepare a place for the puppy - warm, cozy, in a quiet corner. Do not try to immediately isolate the dog and limit its freedom of movement; it is better when the puppy sees you and you see him.

If you decide that the puppy will sleep in the place allocated to him, then never, under any pretext (cold, scared, lonely, squeaking, crying), do not let him into your bed. But......a real Basenji will always try to climb into your bed, get under the covers and lie down on your pillow!!! If you give in once, consider that the battle is lost and your puppy is the winner! It will no longer be possible to expel him from the master's bed!!! To be honest, my bass sleeps in bed and under the covers, and I really like that it is so soft and warm.

Basenjis easily climb to heights and jump high. Be prepared to see your puppy in the most unexpected places as he grows.

It's in the Basenji's blood to climb higher. Don't even expect the dog to be satisfied with the floor! And immediately decide which sofas and chairs she can climb onto and which ones she cannot. You can’t explain to a small puppy how one sofa is different from another, so just make it so that he can’t get on it. And, frankly, I would limit the puppy's access to upholstered furniture until he grows up and understands that he cannot pee on the chair.
Place pillows near those sofas and armchairs where the dog will be allowed to climb. Puppy up to 4 months old. he could get injured by jumping off the sofa - this is still too high for him. But the puppies instantly figure out where it’s more convenient to get down, and one day they learn to use a ladder made of pillows.

When opening the entrance and interior doors, make sure that the paw does not get under the door or into the door ledge.

Up to 6 months you cannot walk on steps (up and, especially, down), the puppy must be carried in your arms.

Enter the elevator only when short leash, carefully ensure that the puppy does not jump out while closing the doors.

Cross the road only at a short walk (the puppy can suddenly rush after a motorcycle, after a bird, or towards a dog on the other side of the street).

In the city, near the former part, walk only on a leash!

Care

Trim nails, clean ears with an ear stick (not often, only when dirty, don’t stick the stick deep), take care of your teeth (especially when changing teeth).

In winter, in cold and damp weather, wear a suit for a walk. Dogs of this breed are different good health, but, in cold areas, may be subject to colds, as well as diseases of the eyes and ears.

Brush the coat with a brush for short-haired dogs. Remember that the Basenji does not have an undercoat, so you do not need to use force when cleaning the coat.

Wash only when necessary, weekly and monthly washing is not required.

Treat for ticks and fleas from March to October. Deworming.

In summer, Basenjis may become covered with dark spots in the form of circles or streaks that appear through the coat. This is a tan. Basenjis love the sun and should be given the opportunity to enjoy the warmth of the sun, especially in spring and summer.

Contact with the dog

If you want to have a calm, mentally healthy dog in the future, you need to:

Communicate with the puppy in a calm, gentle voice;

Call to you in a joyful and cheerful voice;

Always praise him when the dog comes to you;

Do not show aggression towards the puppy, do not get irritated, and do not scream. You need to have patience and restraint to influence the dog, be confident and calm. Control your emotions and you can control your dog;

Do not forget that this is a dog in front of you, not a person, and your behavior should be understandable to the dog.

You can't hit a dog!!!

You can't put him on a chain or tie him!!!

Do not punish or scold the puppy if you did not catch him at the crime scene; your slippers have been chewed off for a long time anyway;

Poking your torn things with your muzzle is useless, it is not clear to the dog and weakens its nervous system.

When training, focus on alternative education, namely: distracting the dog at the moment of bad behavior, pointing out what is allowed to be done and for what, the owner will praise it;

For very bad behavior - you can growl at the puppy, looking into his eyes; you can bite the withers, pat the withers, cheek, or hold lower jaw, and looking sternly in the eyes, briefly and menacingly say “you can’t”;

Try to become the most loved person for the Basenji. And for this:

Doesn't skimp on praise and affection. Showing force and aggression towards a Basenji does not lead to positive results, but on the contrary, it alienates the dog from the person, defensive aggression, fears, and self-doubt appear. An insecure Basenji may bite, be aggressive and uncontrollable.

You should walk with treats, keep the dog on a loose leash, attracting the puppy’s attention to you, and not allow him to chase cats and birds. Try, at such moments, to attract the puppy’s attention to yourself, give a treat, switch, and stop the puppy’s gaze on you. Do not let an untrained Basenji off the leash, especially near roadways and roads.

Train your dog to stay at home. To do this, first train yourself to be behind closed door in your presence, providing you alone with toys, balls, bones for gnawing, etc.

Games

The puppy should have many different toys - balls, ropes, plastic water bottles, plush toys for dogs, etc., you can make something out of socks and tights. A simple piece of paper tied to a string (like for a kitten) will bring a lot of joy to a puppy. Basenjis prefer soft toys. When purchasing, pay attention to the filler - it should be uniform, without balls. There should also be no small hard parts, such as eyes and nose, that the puppy can chew off and swallow.
Gnawing is your salvation. They will occupy the puppy's teeth and prevent him from turning them against your apartment.

The Basenji is an eternal child, mischievous and mischievous, always playing with pleasure: running, jumping, playing with toys. Use this and play with your puppy often. Watching him in the game, you will easily see the peculiarities of his character and habits, which will give you advantages in his further education. You can watch the VIDEO where Nice is having fun with a rubber duck.

Basic commands

All commands are practiced first at home.

1. The dog knows its name;

2. To me;

3. Stop command - for example, sit or lie down, stand before crossing the roadway;

4. Nearby;

Speak commands in a calm but loud voice.

You can watch a video where Nice performs all the basic and simply funny commands.

Don't forget

Basenjis do not like to be alone for a long time, but they also do not like a lot of noise and fuss around. If there are also animals and small children in the apartment, you need to give the Basenji the opportunity to be alone and take a break from everyone.

Basenjis love tactile contact, snuggling with a person, being caressed - sometimes give pleasure to the dog, you can’t over-praise a Basenji, don’t be afraid of it. Be afraid of becoming a stranger to the Basenji.